Read an Excerpt
CHAPTER 1
Pick Up Your Hook
cell phone & eyeglass cases
For your first project, I want to give you something that is easy enough to complete quickly (so you don't get frustrated) as well as something you'll actually use. These two cases follow the same basic pattern; the eyeglass case is just longer than that for the cell phone. And they are worked in the easiest stitch — single crochet. It's fun to try out different yarns and colors. Just remember to check your gauge for each yarn. These make great gifts that you'll be able to do in your sleep once you get the hang of them, so relax and enjoy.
SIZES
* One size
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
* Cell Phone Case: 3 ½" × 4 ½"
* Eyeglass Case: 3 ½" × 6"
YARN
* Suede by Berroco, 100% nylon, 1.75 oz (50 g)/120 yd (111mm) balls
* Wild Bill #3717: 1 ball for Cell Phone Case
* Hopalong Cassidy #3714: 1 ball for Eyeglass Case
MATERIALS
* Hook: Size H/8 (5 mm), or size needed to obtain gauge
* Large-eye yarn needle
* 1 button for each case
GAUGE
* 14 sts = 4" in sc
* 16 rows = 4" in sc
* Take time to make sure your gauge is correct.
CROCHETING THE CELL PHONE CASE
To begin: Chain (ch) 13; single crochet (sc) in second chain (ch) from hook and in each chain (ch) across [12 single crochet (sc)], chain (ch) 1, turn.
Single crochet (sc) in first single crochet (sc) of previous row and in each single crochet (sc) across the row, chain (ch) 1, turn.
Working in this manner, continue until piece measures 10".
Last row: Single crochet (sc) in the first 6 stitches (sts), chain (ch) 3 for the button loop, single crochet (sc) in the last 6 stitches (sts). End yarn by drawing the tail through the last stitch.
FINISHING
With a large-eye yarn needle, weave in any loose ends. Thread the yarn needle with a length of yarn. Fold piece widthwise, leaving 1" at the top edge to serve as a flap. Button loop should be on the flap and the folded-over area should measure about 4 ½". Following the directions for sewing a vertical seam, sew the sides of the case. Leave the 1" flap at the top unsewn. Sew button on the front of the case, positioned so that the button loop fastens easily over it when the flap is turned down.
CROCHETING THE EYEGLASS CASE
To begin: Chain (ch) 13; single crochet (sc) in second chain (ch) from hook and in each chain (ch) across [12 single crochet (sc)], chain (ch) 1, turn.
Single crochet (sc) in first single crochet (sc) of previous row and in each single crochet (sc) across the row, chain (ch) 1, turn.
Working in this manner, continue until piece measures 13 ½".
Last row: Single crochet (sc) in the first 6 stitches (sts), chain (ch) 3 for the button loop, single crochet (sc) in the last 6 stitches (sts). End yarn by drawing the tail through the last stitch.
FINISHING
With a large-eye yarn needle, weave in any loose ends. Thread the yarn needle with a length of yarn. Fold piece widthwise, leaving 1" at the top edge to serve as a flap. Button loop should be on the flap and the folded-over area should be about 6". Following the directions for sewing a vertical seam, sew the sides of the case. Leave the 1" flap at the top unsewn. Sew button on the front of the case, positioned so that the button loop fastens easily over it when the flap is turned down.
basic scarf
Now that you've gained some confidence, you're ready to try something that uses a few more kinds of stitches. This particular scarf uses three — single crochet, double crochet, and half double crochet — and repeats them to create a pattern stitch. A scarf is perfect to practice your newfound skills with. You won't have any trouble mastering this one, so feel free to make it your own by lengthening or shortening it — a longer length lets you wrap it twice around your neck and still hang enough to look elegant. I've chosen a slightly heavy cotton yarn that will keep you cozy without being too bulky. Cute, retro fringe adds extra length.
SIZES
* One size
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
* 6" × 72"
YARN
* All Season Cotton by Rowan, 60% cotton/40% microfiber, 1.75 oz (50 g)/98 yd (90 m) balls
* Limedrop #197: 3 balls
MATERIALS
* Hook: Size H/8 (5 mm), or size needed to obtain gauge
GAUGE
* 12 sts = 4" in sc
* 12 rows = 4" in sc
* Take time to make sure your gauge is correct.
INSTRUCTIONS
To begin: Ch 19, then sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across (18 sc), ch 2, turn.
Row 1: Hdc in each st across, ch 3, turn.
Row 2: Dc in each st across, ch 1, turn.
Row 3: Sc in each ch across, ch 2, turn.
Repeat Rows 1–3 until piece measures 72". End yarn by drawing tail through the last stitch.
FINISHING
Make and attach fringe as shown on facing page.
swinging ribbon bag
Cotton is such a wonderful fiber for a purse — it's sturdy, attractive, and, best of all, washable! And this handbag is as easy to make as it is to take care of. You'll love it not only for its carefree shape, but also for the surprising amount of stuff it holds. It's an attractive, versatile, all-around handbag that is perfectly casual. The stitch I use is a variation of the single crochet. It may take a little time to get used to it, but once you've practiced a few rows, it will seem easy. The handle and top edge are trimmed with tri-tone grosgrain ribbon, which keeps it from stretching and adds a fun splash of contrasting color.
SIZES
* One size
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
* 10" × 11"
YARN
* Provence by Classic Elite Yarns, 100% mercerized Egyptian cotton, 4 1/3 oz (125 g)/256 yd (225 m) skeins
½ Ming Blue #2648: 1 skein
MATERIALS
* Hook: Size H/8 (5 mm), or size needed to obtain gauge
* Large-eye yarn needle
* 1 2/3 yards 1-inch grosgrain ribbon
GAUGE
* 17 sts = 4" in Pattern Stitch
* 17 rows = 4" in Pattern Stitch
* Take time to make sure your gauge is correct.
PATTERN STITCH
*Sc in front loop only of next st, then sc in back loop only of next st; repeat from * across, ch 1, turn. Repeat for pattern.
FRONT
To begin: Ch 43; sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across (42 sc), ch 1, turn.
Working on these sts, start Pattern Stitch and continue until you have completed 11".
End yarn by drawing tail through last st.
BACK
Work as for the front.
HANDLES (MAKE 2)
Ch 6; sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across (5 sc), ch 1, turn.
Keeping in sc, work on these sts until piece measures 16". End yarn by drawing tail through last st.
FINISHING
Weave in any loose yarn ends.
With right sides facing each other, place the front and back pieces together.
Following the directions for sewing horizontal seams, sew the bottom edges together.
Turn the piece so that wrong sides are facing and side edges are aligned.
Follow the directions for sewing vertical seams to sew both side seams.
Complete the bag by following the directions for Sewing on the Ribbon in the box below.
Now Add Color
COLOR AND PATTERN
Color is so exciting that once you're able to use it in your crochet projects, you won't want to stop. It's like going from black and white to Technicolor — you're not in Kansas anymore, Dorothy! Master color changing (as well as how to follow a pattern stitch) and you will have the necessary skill and confidence to take on many different projects, not to mention a whole new agenda when it comes to shopping for yarns.
Working with Color
You'll be surprised to discover that you've already learned the basic steps needed for a color change. You simply follow the same method you used for joining a new yarn, but now you're adding an entirely new yarn in a different color rather than continuing with the same yarn.
Sometimes two (or more) colors alternate across a row, as in Fair Isle knitting. Known as "stranding," with this type of color change you crochet with one yarn while carrying the unused yarn loosely across the back of the piece, then switch as specified either in a chart or in a written pattern. It's best to limit your carries to no more than three stitches in length. If you have to carry longer, simply catch up the carried yarn by wrapping the working yarn over it to "tack" it in place.
Another way to change colors is to work with bobbins wound with different colors of yarn. You pick up each one according to the pattern, then wrap the next color around it when you come to it, drop the old one, and continue. The simplest form of color change is the stripe, which allows you to change colors at the end of a row.
To join a new color yarn, work until you have two loops left on the hook. Draw the new yarn through the two loops to finish the stitch using the new yarn. Leave 6" tails of both yarns to weave into the piece later.
Working Pattern Stitches
Most pattern stitches are simply variations of the basic stitches that you've already learned. The best tip I can give for working on projects with a pattern stitch sequence is to work a practice swatch of the pattern stitch so you won't feel intimidated when you get to the "real thing." When you're working on a new stitch sequence, keep following the directions, even though it doesn't always seem like they will work; in the end, you'll probably be surprised by how well it comes out.
Pattern stitches are a multiple of a certain number of stitches. Some patterns require extra stitches not divisible by the multiple in order to get rows to work out evenly and keep the succeeding rows in sequence. For instance, a pattern may call for 18 stitches, while its multiple is 4. It is said to have a multiple of 4 plus 2. Feels like math class? Don't worry; this will become clearer to you as you get into more difficult stitches.
To experiment, let's look at the pattern stitch used in the Bamboo Handle Purse. Once you have completed several repeats of the pattern stitch, you should be comfortable enough to do the project. For our practice swatch, chain 21, single crochet in each stitch across, chain 3 more, and then begin the pattern stitch shown in the box.
bamboo handle purse
Now that you're ready to tackle a more complex pattern stitch, this funky purse is an enjoyable project. The knotted fringe with beads and bamboo handle gives it a swinging retro look that you'll love to show off. Handles can be found at any sewing shop or craft supply store in a variety of materials and sizes. This is a great all-season bag that works in any weather — pair with your favorite sundress and sandals or with boots and a shearling coat. It's both eye-catching and practical, crocheted in a smooth cotton yarn and a rich, sophisticated color that complements any wardrobe.
SIZES
* One size
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
* 12" × 12"
YARN
* Cotton Classic by Tahki/Stacy Charles, 100% mercerized cotton, 1.75 oz/50 g (108 yd/100 m) balls
* #3995: 2 skeins
MATERIALS
* Hook: Size H/8 (5 mm), or size needed to obtain gauge
* 7" diameter bamboo handle
* Large-eye yarn needle Beads
* ½ yard matching lining fabric
* Sewing thread to match lining
* Sewing needle
GAUGE
* 16 sts = 4" in Pattern Stitch
* 10 rows = 4" in Pattern Stitch
* Take time to make sure your gauge is correct.
PATTERN STITCH
Row 1: Dc in each st, turn.
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), *skip 1 st, dc in next st, dc in skipped st; repeat from * across row, turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each st, turn.
Repeat Rows 1–3 for pattern.
THE PURSE (MAKE 2)
To begin: Ch 49; sc in each st across (48 sc).
Working on these sts, start Pattern Stitch (at left) and continue until you have completed 10 repeats of the pattern.
HANDLE STITCHES
Row 1: Ch 5, * skip 1 st, tr in next st; repeat from * across row, ch 5, turn.
Row 2: Ch 5, * skip 1 st, tr in next st; repeat from * across row. End yarn by drawing tail through last stitch.
FINISHING
Place bag pieces together with right sides facing. Following directions for sewing horizontal seams, sew bottom edges together.
Turn purse right-side out. With side edges aligned, follow directions for sewing vertical seams to sew side seams together, ending both seams 4" from top edge.
Measure bag and cut two pieces of lining to match, adding ½" all around for seam allowance.
Place lining pieces together with right sides facing. Taking a ½" seam allowance and starting 4 ½" from top edge, sew lining together along one side, across bottom, and up the second side, ending 4 ½" from top edge.
Turn under the top edge and unsewn seam allowances of lining ¼" and then ¼" again to form a hem. Baste. Leave lining wrong-side out.
Slip lining into bag with wrong sides of bag and lining facing each other and top edges aligned. Pin top edge of lining to top edge of bag so that the fold lines up with the last row of bag stitches, just below Row 1 of the handle stitches, and the side edges are even with the side edges of the bag. Use an overcast or blind stitch to sew the lining in place along side seams and top edges.
Place one of the handles under the handle stitches on the wrong side of the bag. Wrap a handle stitch over the handle and pin the stitch to the inside of the bag. Continue to wrap and pin the handle stitches until all stitches along one top edge are pinned down. Thread yarn through large-eye yarn needle and sew stitches in place where pinned. Repeat on other side.
striped skinny scarf
Colorful and warm, a striped scarf is a timeless favorite. This one is completely updated with contemporary colors and a chic long length. Now that you know how to use different colors, it's time to put the skill to use in your own wardrobe! This particular scarf is worked from end to end in vertical stripes. To begin, you work quite a long chain, but the rest of the scarf uses only one stitch, the double crochet, so after the first row it's easy going. There is nothing more thrilling than introducing color to your work, so if you've mastered the basic techniques of crochet, this scarf is an exciting, not to mention fashionable, next step.
SIZES
* One size
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
* 6" × 90"
YARN
* Decor by Patons, 75% acrylic/25% wool, 3.5 oz (100 g)/210 yd (192 m) balls
* cc D Rich Aubergine #1627: 1 ball
* cc B Pale Aubergine #1625: 1 ball
* cc A Burgundy #1647: 1 ball
* cc C Pale Olive #1607: 1 ball
* cc E Aran #1602: 1 ball
MATERIALS
* Hook: Size I/9 (5.5 mm), or size needed to obtain gauge
* Large-eye yarn needle
GAUGE
* 11 sts = 4" in hdc
* 8 rows = 4" in hdc
* Take time to make sure your gauge is correct.
CROCHETING THE SCARF
To begin: With cc A, ch 252; hdc in third ch from hook and in each ch across (250 hdc). In last st, change to cc B and ch 2, turn.
Row 1: With cc B, work 1 hdc in each st to end, change to cc C in last st, ch 2, turn.
Row 2: With cc C, work 1 hdc in each st to end, change to cc D, ch 2, turn.
Row 3: With cc D, work 1 hdc in each st to end, change to cc E in last st, ch 2, turn.
Row 4: With cc E, work 1 hdc in each st to end, change to cc C in last st, ch 2, turn.
Row 5: With cc C, work 1 hdc in each st to end, change to cc B in last st, ch 2, turn.
Row 6: With cc B, work 1 hdc in each st to end, change to cc D in last st, ch 2, turn.
Row 7: With cc D, work 1 hdc in each st to end, change to cc A in last st, ch 2, turn.
Row 8: With cc A, work 1 hdc in each st to end, change to cc E in last st, ch 2, turn.
Row 9: With cc E, work 1 hdc in each st to end, change to cc C in last st, ch 2, turn.
Row 10: With cc C, hdc in each st to end. End yarn.
FINISHING
Weave in all loose ends.
For the fringe, make 22 fringe using three 14" lengths of yarn for each fringe. You will need the following number of fringe: 4 cc A, 4 cc B, 4 cc C, 6 cc D, and 4 cc E. Attach fringe to each end at corresponding colors as shown here.
striped throw pillow
Decorative pillows are a must-have design element that makes any room stylish and comfortable. Knowing how to work with multiple colors will open up new doors for you, and once you're comfortable with the possibilities, suddenly you'll be able to envision a world of color in your home.
You needn't be afraid of adding color to a room, and a throw pillow is the perfect way to start. This simple striped pillow, worked in a luscious, rich blend of wool, mohair, and alpaca, is a sumptuous addition to any living space, from a window seat to an easy chair.
(Continues…)
Excerpted from "Hooked on Crochet"
by .
Copyright © 2004 Candi Jensen.
Excerpted by permission of Storey Publishing.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
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