Amazing Surfing Stories: Tales of Incredible Waves and Remarkable Riders

Amazing Surfing Stories: Tales of Incredible Waves and Remarkable Riders

by Alex Wade
     
 

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HIGHER THAN A HIGH FIVE

Machado saw his friend and, skimming the surface of the sea, put out his left hand. At the same time, Slater instinctively did likewise. The pair high fived in the middle of the biggest surf contest in the world… The roar of the crowd could be heard for miles.

OH MY GOD (TAKE 1)

Hamilton recalls hearing him shouting

Overview

HIGHER THAN A HIGH FIVE

Machado saw his friend and, skimming the surface of the sea, put out his left hand. At the same time, Slater instinctively did likewise. The pair high fived in the middle of the biggest surf contest in the world… The roar of the crowd could be heard for miles.

OH MY GOD (TAKE 1)

Hamilton recalls hearing him shouting: “Don’t let go!”, and reckons other voices were also screaming that discretion was the better part of valour. But Hamilton was always going to let go.

DR SARAH AND THE MEANING OF SURFING

How blessed were we, to have a flawless left-hander to ourselves at a break that would normally be overrun? And what a break, too: Spot G is backed by granite cliffs, its water is crystal clear, dolphins and seals are regulars in the line-up and the ambience is other-worldly and ancient.

ED’S LEFT

Ed barely gave thought to the meaning of this particular session. The whoops of the onlookers amped him as much as the waves. But then it dawned on him: had anyone ever ridden a wave here before?

Product Details

ISBN-13:
9781119942542
Publisher:
Wiley
Publication date:
12/04/2012
Pages:
224
Product dimensions:
6.20(w) x 9.00(h) x 1.00(d)

Meet the Author

ALEX WADE is a former white-collar boxer, media lawyer and freelance journalist who lives and surfs in Cornwall.  As well as running the Surf Nation blog, he regularly contributes to The Times, The Sunday Times, The Independent, The Guardian and other national newspapers. He covers diverse areas as a freelance journalist and has written columns for The Independent on Sunday, timesonline.co.uk and Flush magazine on boxing, legal life and poker. 

Alex has travelled the globe extensively. He has written about New York, Albania and Kazakhstan; Barbados, Ireland and Andalucia; Captain Cook country, Mexico and Francis Ford Coppola's retreats in Belize and Guatemala. Despite a restless life he thinks he's found paradise in West Penwith, Cornwall, where he lives with his wife Karen, an accomplished abstract artist, and their two sons.

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