American Farmstead Cheese: The Complete Guide to Making and Selling Artisan Cheeses

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Overview


This comprehensive guide to farmstead cheese explains the diversity of cheeses in terms of historical animal husbandry, pastures, climate, preservation, and transport-all of which still contribute to the uniqueness of farm cheeses today. Discover the composition of milk (and its seasonal variations), starter cultures, and the chemistry of cheese. The book includes:
  • A fully illustrated guide to basic cheesemaking
  • Discussions on the effects of calcium, pH, salt, and moisture on the ...
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More About This Book

Overview


This comprehensive guide to farmstead cheese explains the diversity of cheeses in terms of historical animal husbandry, pastures, climate, preservation, and transport-all of which still contribute to the uniqueness of farm cheeses today. Discover the composition of milk (and its seasonal variations), starter cultures, and the chemistry of cheese. The book includes:
  • A fully illustrated guide to basic cheesemaking
  • Discussions on the effects of calcium, pH, salt, and moisture on the process
  • Ways to ensure safety and quality through sampling and risk reduction
  • Methods for analyzing the resulting composition

  • ... The Vermont Cheese Council is a nonprofit organization whose support of more than dozen Vermont cheesemakers contributes to a vision for continued agricultural practices and the preservation of Vermont's rural landscape. For those who want to quit their boring jobs and do something that will make their lives meaningful, here's the book. Paul Kindstedt must be considered an American treasure. Of all the books in my possession, this one is now the most important.

Product Details

  • ISBN-13: 9781931498777
  • Publisher: Chelsea Green Publishing
  • Publication date: 5/30/2005
  • Pages: 300
  • Sales rank: 121,246
  • Product dimensions: 7.28 (w) x 9.92 (h) x 0.82 (d)

Meet the Author


Paul Kindstedt, Ph.D., is a professor at the University of Vermont in the department of Nutrition and Food Sciences. He teaches Dairy Chemistry, Fermented Dairy Foods, and Cheese and Culture.

Read an Excerpt


Excerpt from Chapter 10: The Art of Cheesemaking by Peter Dixon

For an artisanal business to succeed, the product must be unique and consistently well made, and there must be a market for it. Therefore, artisan cheesemakers adhere to the traditional methods of their craft to bring forth the nuances in flavor that are generated through the intimate connection with the seasons and the environment. The finest cheese may vary, but it should vary within a certain standard if it is to be commercially marketable. Some artisan cheesemakers benefit from following traditions that produce these results, but most of us are relatively new at the game. For the less experienced cheesemakers, then, traditional methods should be supported by scientific principles to the extent necessary to make consistently high-quality cheese. It is important to note that many of the traditional artisan cheesemakers have strong support from the scientific community in their distinctive agricultural regions. The melding of craft and science is used to strengthen the activity on which their livelihood is based.

A cheese such as Cheddar, which was once exclusively made by artisan cheesemakers in Great Britain, has largely turned into the product of an industrial process, though the craft of making Cheddar is still alive. Wheels of Cheddar sealed in cloth bandages, which represent the fruit of an artisan cheesemaker's labor, are still being made. In reading about the history of cheesemaking, we learns that 150 years ago the farm-made Cheddars were more variable in quality because cheesemakers differed in attitude and aptitude--that is, some were better at their craft than others. This could be attributed to many factors, most notably attention to cleanliness during milking and cheesemaking; construction of dairies, creameries, and cheese stores; and systems of cheesemaking. In the case of Cheddar, quality was improved by using methods based on scientific principles--such as the cheddaring process, hygiene, and temperature control during making and aging--that were developed by Joseph Harding in England from the 1850s onward.

Joseph Harding dedicated many years to improving the standard of quality for British cheese. He used scientific principles to develop methods for making cheese that did away with some of the guesswork and exorcised the mysticism of certain traditional methods that produced haphazard results. In this way he was able to demonstrate that some "traditional" practices led to poor quality and also showed how to make significant and consistent improvements by following new practices based on an understanding of dairy science. At first cheesemakers were skeptical of his methods, but the string of blue ribbons collected by his family for their Cheddar cheeses proved him the wiser, and several of his daughters went on to consult and work for other cheese businesses in Great Britain and the United States (Cheke, 1959).

This is the appropriate way for artisan cheesemakers to use science. It is now common practice to integrate scientific principles with traditional cheesemaking practices to better understand how cheese of the highest quality standard is made. This, in turn, enables dairying regions to maintain and develop viable economic enterprises that are centered on artisanal cheesemaking. The key is to produce cheese with a high level of quality, on which a reputation can be built, thereby ensuring marketability over the long term. As a cheesemaker myself--I make 20,000 pounds/9,000 kg of cheese a year for sale throughout New England--I need an approach that will reduce variability and build a reputation for quality. Therefore, I rely on science to enhance the art of cheesemaking. I use standardized rennet and pure starter cultures made in laboratories, and I test acidity regularly during the cheesemaking process. The rest of what I do is based on my knowledge of the craft, which has been built up over only 20 years.

Table of Contents

Preface xi
1 The Rhyme and Reason of Cheese Diversity: The Old World Origins 1
The Alpine Cheeses 2
The Soft Ripened Cheeses 6
Cheesemaking in England 11
2 Cheesemaking in the New World: The American Experience 17
Cheesemaking in the Colonies 18
The Northward Migration 23
The Westward Migration 26
The Decline 29
The Renaissance 32
3 Milk: The Beginning of All Cheesemaking 37
The Composition of Milk: Cow, Goat, and Sheep 38
Compositional Variation in Cheesemilk 50
From Milk to Cheese: Selective Concentration 53
4 Starter Culture: The Heart of Cheesemaking 57
Functions of the Starter Culture 58
Important Cheese Starters 60
Forms of Starter Culture 61
Sources of Starter Inconsistency and Failure 65
Secondary (Ripening) Cultures 68
Monitoring Starter Activity: Acidity Measurement 71
5 The Eight Basic Steps of Cheesemaking 79
Step 1 Setting the Milk 80
Step 2 Cutting or Breaking the Curd 95
Step 3 Cooking and Holding the Curds 99
Step 4 Draining the Whey; Dipping the Curds 105
Step 5 Knitting the Curds 108
Step 6 Pressing the Curds 112
Step 7 Salting the Curds 113
Step 8 Special Applications 121
Final Thoughts 122
6 Chemical Composition: How It Shapes Cheese Identity and Quality 123
Calcium Content and pH 124
Salt Content 128
Moisture Content 134
Implications for Safety 136
Final Thoughts 137
7 Ensuring Safety and Quality I: Hazard Analysis Critical Control Point and the Cheesemaking Process 139
Prerequisite Programs 140
The Seven Principles of HACCP 141
The Challenges of HACCP 148
Final Thoughts 151
8 Ensuring Safety and Quality II: Controlling the Initial Chemical Composition 153
Establishing a Target Acidity Schedule 154
Acidity Testing as a Management Tool 159
Establishing Targets for Initial Composition 162
9 The Pasteurization Dilemma 173
What Is Pasteurization? 174
Pathogens of Concern in Raw Milk 175
Milk Quality 177
Heat Treatment of Milk 178
Cheeses Made from Raw Milk 180
Previous Reviews on the Safety of Raw-Milk Cheeses 181
Improvement in Cheese Safety and Future Needs 190
10 The Art of Cheesemaking 197
Artisanal Cheesemaking 200
Using Starter Culture and Rennet 200
Translating Recipes Using Direct Vat Set and Bulk Starters 203
Adding Starter to Milk 205
Cutting the Curds 206
Working and Firming the Curds 209
Pressing: Forming the Shape of the Cheese 212
Seasonal Dairying and Cheesemaking 214
Salting and Brining Cheese 219
Some Notes on Aging Cheese 221
Final Thoughts 224
11 The Business of Farmstead Cheesemaking 227
A Lot of Humility Is a Good Thing 227
What Is the Vision? 229
Doing Some Homework 229
What Cheese Will You Make? 230
Control Equals Profit 230
Marketing and Communications 233
Sales and Distribution 236
Business Planning 239
Final Thoughts 244
12 Putting It All Together: The Vermont Shepherd Story 247
The History of Vermont Shepherd 247
Vermont Shepherd Today 256
Frequently Asked Questions 256
Marketing 260
Final Thoughts 261
Further Reading 263
About the Contributors 265
Index 269

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Sort by: Showing all of 2 Customer Reviews

  • Anonymous

    Posted March 2, 2005

    He Should Know

    Kindstedt is a man who has prided himself on his cheese knowledge since he first met a cow in bucolic Vermont. This is his pet project: the culmination of more than 20 years of research and experimentation, advisory boards, and, of course, sampling. Already published in 10 different languages, this is sure to become a classic.

    Was this review helpful? Yes  NoThank you for your feedback.   Report this reviewThank you, this review has been flagged.

  • Anonymous

    Posted January 6, 2010

    No text was provided for this review.

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