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This richly illustrated volume is a historical and ethnographic study of one important aspect of Arab and Islamic material culture - clothing. While in part descriptive, its principal focus is on the evolution and transformations of modes of dress over the past 1400 years throughout the Middle East, North Africa, and for the Middle Ages, Islamic Spain. Arab clothing is treated as part of an Islamic vestimentary system and is discussed within the context of the social, religious, esthetic, and political trends of each age.
In addition to the five historical chapters, three chapters are devoted to major themes of Arab costume history - the dress code for non-Muslims, the important socio-economic and political institution of luxury fabrics and garments of honor, and the most well-known and frequently misunderstood institution of veiling.
|1||Pre-Islamic Arabia and the early Umma||7|
|2||The evolution of the Islamic vestimentary system under the great caliphates||29|
|3||The Arab east under the Turkish dynasties of the Later Middle Ages and Early Modern times : Saljuqs, Ayyubids, Mamluks, and Ottomans||62|
|4||The Muslim west : North Africa and medieval Spain||86|
|5||The laws of differentiation and the clothing of non-Muslims||101|
|6||The opulent world of Tiraz and precious textiles||120|
|7||Veiling in the Islamic vestimentary system||138|
|9||The study of Arab clothing : a bibliographical epilogue||175|