Artisan Baking Across America: The Breads, the Bakers, the Best Recipes

Overview


Maggie Glezer, the uniquely qualified, totally obsessed certified bread baker who teaches and writes about bread for both laypeople and professionals, set off across the country in pursuit of the best breads and best bakers in America. And she returned with the goods—impeccable recipes that reproduce the excellence and craft of the best breads being made today, scaled down and written for a home kitchen.

But in addition to the recipes, she offers sumptuous color photography and...

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Overview


Maggie Glezer, the uniquely qualified, totally obsessed certified bread baker who teaches and writes about bread for both laypeople and professionals, set off across the country in pursuit of the best breads and best bakers in America. And she returned with the goods—impeccable recipes that reproduce the excellence and craft of the best breads being made today, scaled down and written for a home kitchen.

But in addition to the recipes, she offers sumptuous color photography and portraits of the bakers, in words and pictures, that tell the story of America's artisan bread movement, from the wheat breeders in Kansas to a gristmill in Rhode Island, and specialty bakers from Berkeley, California, to Long Island City, New York.

This is a book to bake from, to learn from, to read for the sheer pleasure of realizing the devotion and mastery that go into the making of our best daily bread, whether it be a dark rye, a Neapolitan pizza, a baguette, or a bialy.

Whether your interest is epicurean, avocational, or vocational, you will be guided by step-by-step instructions detailing the best professional methods. Each recipe is categorized by skill level from beginner to advanced, and there are also helpful mail-order sources for ingredients and equipment.

To savor the crust, crumb, and aroma of these breads fresh out of your home oven is to be touched by the soul of the specialty baker and his or her passion for excellence.

If these truly great breads don't lay waste to the old adage that man can't live by bread alone, then nothing will.

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Editorial Reviews

New York Times Book Review
...the author makes these breads achievable for the home baker - always a challenge when adapting recipes from professional cooks...
People
Bread never looked so good as in this big, artsy cookbook.
Publishers Weekly - Publisher's Weekly
Artisan bread baking--meaning the production by hand of quality European-style breads--has recently taken off in the U.S., and Glezer (contributor to Fine Cooking and the Atlanta Journal-Constitution) has done a marvelous job of chronicling its development in this thorough and inviting study of specialty bakeries around the country (including the Acme Bread Company in Berkeley, Calif., and the Pearl Bakery in Portland, Ore.), their breads and how the reader can replicate them at home (with instructions that are exceedingly complete and well organized). Glezer leaves no detail to chance, cautioning, for instance, that measuring spoons often vary significantly and suggesting a specific brand for serious bakers. Along with Corn Bread, Ciabatta and Kalamata Olive Bread, Glezer also includes such specialty breads as Kugelhopf and Pandoro. It's a joy to find Kossar's Bialystoker Kuchen on New York's Lower East Side and the Tom Cat Bakery in Queens, a large artisan shop, among Glezer's selection of jewel-box bakeries. She concludes with a chapter on baking competitions run by the Bread Bakers Guild of America and its judging criteria (by which readers can gauge their own breads' success). Like the delicate and rugged breads she serves up, Glezer's book is top-notch all the way. (Oct.) Copyright 2000 Cahners Business Information.
Richard Corliss
If anything is going to persuade time-starved American cooks to pick up the yeast, it will be this breathtaking opus.
Time
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Product Details

  • ISBN-13: 9781579651176
  • Publisher: Artisan Publishers
  • Publication date: 10/7/2000
  • Pages: 240
  • Product dimensions: 9.36 (w) x 12.20 (h) x 0.96 (d)

Meet the Author


Ben Fink received his art education at the University of Memphis and Memphis college of Art. A freelance photographer since 1986, he has photographed for magazines such as Saveur, Food & Wine, Bon Appetit, and Scientific American. He lives in New York.

Maggie Glezer is an American Institute of Baking-certified baker. Her first book, Artisan Baking Across America: The Breads, the Bakers, the Best Recipes, won a James Beard Foundation award when it was published in hardcover. It is now available in paperback under the title Artisan Baking. Ms. Glezer is also the author of A Blessing of Bread. She specializes in teaching and writing about bread baking for amateurs and professionals and contributes to publications such as Fine Cooking, The Atlanta Journal-Constitution, the newsletter of the Bread Bakers Guild of America, and King Arthur Flour's The Baking Sheet. She lives in Atlanta with her husband and two children.

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Read an Excerpt

Thom Leonard's Kalamata Olive Bread
  • Makes two 1 1/2-pound (750-gram) loaves
  • Time: At least 27 hours, with about 20 minutes of active work

This has become an artisan-bakery classic, found in almost all bakeries and bread books, but I include it because Thom Leonard's version is by far the best I have ever tasted. Thom says it is so good because of the huge amount of almost whole, very ripe, black-purple Kalamatas he adds to the simple sourdough base. His olive source, Nicola, is strictly wholesale, but Zingerman's in Ann Arbor, Michigan, will send you olives of equal quality if you ask for the "bulk Kalamatas" (see Sources, page 222). Do not use the small, hard, pale purple Kalamatas you find at the grocery; the bread just won't be the same.

Recipe Synopsis - THE MORNING OF THE DAY BEFORE BAKING: Refresh your active sourdough starter. (If it has been stored in the refrigerator, start refreshing it 2 days before baking with it, for at least 3 times.) THAT EVENING: Mix the levain and let it ferment overnight. THE NEXT MORNING: Mix the dough in the morning and let it ferment for 3 1/2 hours. Shape the dough, then let it proof for about 2 hours. Bake the bread for about 45 minutes.

THE EVENING BEFORE BAKING - Making the Levain

1 1/2 tablespoons (0.8 ounce) Fermented Firm Sourdough Starter (pages 91-94), refreshed 8 hours before

1/2 cup (4 ounces) Water, lukewarm

3/4 cup (4 ounces) Unbleached bread flour

Dissolve the sourdough in the water in a small bowl. Add the flour and beat this batterlike dough until very smooth. Place in a covered container and let it ferment overnight for 12 hours, or until fully risen and juststarting to sink in the middle.

BAKE DAY - Mixing the Dough

1 1/4 cups plus 2 tablespoons (11.3 ounces) Water, lukewarm

Fermented levain

1 2/3 cups (9 ounces) Unbleached bread flour, preferably organic

1 2/3 cups (9 ounces) Unbleached all-purpose flour, preferably organic

1/4 cup (1.1 ounces) Whole-rye flour, preferably organic

1 tablespoon (0.5 ounce)

1 3/4 cups (10 ounces) Very ripe and flavorful Kalamata olives

  • Or use 3 1/4 cups (17.6 ounces) King Arthur all-purpose for both

flours.

By Hand: Add the water to the fermented levain to loosen it from the

container. Combine the flours in a large bowl. Pour in the watered levain and stir with your hand or a wooden spoon just until a rough dough forms. Turn the dough out onto an unfloured work surface and knead, using a dough scraper to help, until the dough is very smooth and shiny, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle on the salt and continue to knead the bread until the salt has fully dissolved.

Pit the olives and gently knead them into the dough until evenly

distributed. You want the bread marbled with purple, rather than completely

purple.

By Stand Mixer: Add the water to the fermented levain to loosen it from the container. Add the flours to the mixing bowl and combine them quickly with your hand. Pour in the watered levain and stir with your hand or a wooden spoon just until a rough dough forms. Using the dough hook, mix the dough on medium speed until it is very smooth and shiny and cleans the bowl, about 15 minutes. Sprinkle on the salt and continue mixing until the salt is fully dissolved and the dough is much tighter, about 3 minutes. Remove the dough from the bowl and place it on an unfloured work surface.

Pit the olives. To pit them easily, lightly smash the olives with the side of a chef's knife, then pick out the pits with your fingers. Gently knead them into the dough by hand until evenly distributed. You want the bread marbled with purple, rather than completely purple.

The dough should be soft, sticky, and very extensible.

FERMENTING AND TURNING THE DOUGH - Place the dough in a container at least 3 times its size and cover it tightly with plastic wrap. Let it ferment, preferably at 75oF, until it is airy and well fermented but not yet doubled in bulk, about 3 hours. Turn the dough (page 16) 3 times at 20-minute intervals, that is, after 20, 40,and 60 minutes of fermenting, then leave the dough undisturbed for the remaining time.

ROUNDING AND RESTING THE DOUGH - Flour the surface of the dough and your work surface and turn the dough out. Cut the dough in half; each piece should weigh 24 ounces (680 grams). Gently round them (page 17) with more flour; cover them loosely with plastic wrap, and let them rest until well relaxed, 15 to 20 minutes.

SHAPING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH - Shape the dough into even and tight round loaves without deflating them. Place the dough topside down in linen-lined baskets, lightly sprinkle with flour, and cover well with plastic wrap. Proof the dough until it is well expanded, about 3 hours.

PREHEATING THE OVEN - At least 45 minutes before the dough is fully proofed, arrange a rack on the oven's second-to-top shelf and place a baking stone on it. Clear away all racks above the one being used. Preheat the oven to 425oF (220oC).

BAKING THE BREAD - If desired, just before baking the bread, fill the oven with steam (page 18). Turn the breads out onto a sheet of parchment paper or a floured peel and slash an off-center line across the top. Spray the breads lightly with water, then slide them, still on the paper, onto the hot stone. Bake the breads until dark and evenly browned all around, 40 to 45 minutes, rotating them halfway into the bake. Let the breads cool on a rack.

Baking Team USA Sweet Dough

  • Makes 30 ounces (900 grams) dough, enough for 12 Baking Team USA Caps, 2 Macrina's Cinnamon Monkey Breads, or 2 Acme's Cinnamon-Currant Breads with Walnuts
  • Time: At least 11 hours, with about 15 minutes of active work

This full-flavored sweet dough is very similar to the kugelhopf dough (page 181) except that it is slightly richer. It is also kneaded in four stages, which may seem tedious but will net a bread

with a pillowy light, finely grained, tender yellow crumb and a tremendous rise in the oven. It has a richly fermented flavor, thanks to its long, cold fermentation. The original formula called

for a pre-ferment, but on team member Glenn Mitchell's advice, I dropped it in favor of an extended chilling.

The two-part method of making bread-first kneading the dough, then chilling it to finish it up to two days later-is especially convenient. I like to make the dough at night after dinner, then finish it late the next afternoon or evening. That way, I can bake in the evening, with the main mess of ingredient gathering and kneading out of the way.

Once this dough is fully fermented, you can use it in your favorite recipe or try it in the delicious triad of sweet breads that follow: Baking Team USA Caps, Macrina's Cinnamon Monkey Bread, and Acme's Cinnamon-Currant Bread with Walnuts.

Recipe Synopsis - Mix the dough, then chill it for 8 hours or up 2 days. Let it warm to room temperature for 2 hours. Shape, fill, and bake the bread as desired.

AT LEAST 8 HOURS AND UP TO 2 DAYS BEFORE BAKING - Mixing the Dough

1/2 cup (4.4 ounces) Milk, any kind

2 teaspoons (0.2 ounce) Instant yeast

2 2/3 cups (14 ounces) Unbleached all-purpose flour

3 large Eggs

1 1/2 teaspoons (0.3 ounce) Table salt

6 tablespoons (2.5 ounces) Granulated sugar

1/2 cup (4 ounces) Unsalted butter, softened if mixing by hand or stand

mixer, chilled if mixing by food processor

Microwave the milk on high power for 4 minutes or heat in a small saucepan on top of the stove until bubbles form around the edge, steam rises, and the milk smells cooked. Let it cool to 105o to 115oF, about the temperature of a comfortably hot bath. (Scalding the milk denatures a protein in the milk that attacks the gluten; if this step is skipped, the bread's texture will be coarser and denser.) Sprinkle the yeast over the milk, stir, and let stand for 5 to 10 minutes.

By Hand: Add the flour to a large bowl, then add the yeast mixture and the eggs. With a wooden spoon or your hand, mix the dough just until well combined. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and let rest (autolyse) for 15 to 20 minutes.

Add the salt to the dough and mix the dough in the bowl just until

combined. Turn the dough out of the bowl and knead until it is smooth and strong, 5 to 10 minutes. The dough will first be gritty with the salt, but it will soon dissolve. Add half the sugar and

knead the dough again until the sugar dissolves; add the remaining sugar and knead the dough until the sugar is fully incorporated and the dough is very smooth. Finally, add the butter in 2 additions and knead it into the dough until the dough is satiny smooth, soft, and glossy.

By Stand Mixer: Add the flour to the mixing bowl, then add the yeast

mixture and the eggs. Mix the dough just until well combined. Cover the

bowl tightly with plastic wrap and let rest (autolyse) for 15 to 20 minutes.

Add the salt to the dough and, using the dough hook, mix the dough on low speed until it is smooth, about 3 minutes. This is a soft dough that will never clean the bowl. Add the sugar in 2 additions then the butter in 2 additions, mixing until each addition is completely incorporated before adding the rest. Continue to mix the dough until it is satiny smooth, soft, and glossy.

By Food Processor: Add the flour and the salt to the workbowl fitted with the steel blade and pulse to combine them. Remove the cover and add the yeast mixture and eggs. Process the dough until it forms a smooth ball and begins to fog the workbowl. Remove the dough from the workbowl and knead it by hand to cool it and redistribute the heat. The dough will feel fairly stiff once it cools off. Return the dough to the workbowl, process it for 30 seconds, remove it again, and hand knead to cool it. Repeat this process 2 or 3 more times until the dough is very smooth and strong. Return the dough to the workbowl.

With the machine running, slowly add the sugar through the feed tube and process the dough until the sugar has dissolved and the dough is smooth. The dough will be very sticky at this point. Remove the dough and hand knead it to cool it again. Return the dough to the workbowl. Cut the butter into chunks and add about half to the workbowl. Process the dough until the butter is incorporated, about 30 seconds. If the dough is very warm, hand knead it again to cool it. Add the rest of the chunked butter and process it again until it is fully incorporated, about 30 seconds. The dough should be very smooth, extensible, and silky.

adding

FERMENTING THE DOUGH - Place the dough in a container at least 3 times its size and cover it tightly with plastic wrap, or after rolling it in flour, place the dough in a large plastic bag and seal the bag well. Refrigerate for at least 8 hours or up to 2 days. Let the dough warm to room temperature for 2 hours before shaping it.

Macrina's Cinnamon Monkey Bread

  • Makes two 9 x 5-inch pan breads
  • Time: About 3 1/2 hours from fermented dough to finished bread, with

about 10 minutes of active work

Macrina Bakery & Caf, in Seattle is the little artisan bakery I wish I had just around the corner. In a suavely renovated room with a coffee bar and a scrumptious selection of homey baked goods, one morning I had a wonderful breakfast of excellent coffee served in a huge ceramic mug and this delicious and intricate-looking (but easily shaped) bread. Although it is called a monkey bread, it does not pull apart; instead, it is sliced to display a thick swirl of apple butter and cinnamon sugar. Leslie Mackie, the bakery's founder, writes, "The joy of this loaf is its delicious apple-cinnamon glaze. Apples being a staple here

in Washington, it seemed a natural combination with the cinnamon sugar.

This is a very popular morning bread at Macrina, shared with a steaming cup of joe."

Recipe Synopsis - Shape and fill the fermented sweet dough, let it proof for 2 to 3 hours, then wash it with beaten egg and bake it for about 45 minutes.

BAKE DAY - Shaping the Dough

1/2 cup packed ( 3.5 ounces) Brown sugar

1/2 cup (3.5 ounces) Granulated sugar

1 tablespoon (0.3 ounce) Cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon Nutmeg

Fully fermented Sweet Dough (above), warmed

to room temperature

1 cup (10.2 ounces) Apple butter

1/4 cup (2 ounces) Unsalted butter, melted

1 large Egg, beaten

1 tablespoon (0.3 ounce) Sesame seeds

Butter two 9 x 5-inch baking pans and line them with 12 x 9-inch rectangles of parchment paper, leaving the 5-inch sides bare.

Combine the sugars and spices in a small bowl. Roll out the fermented dough into an 18 x 10-inch rectangle, about H inch thick. Spread it with an even layer of the apple butter, drizzle it with the melted butter, and then sprinkle it with the spiced sugar mixture.

Roll both long edges in so that they meet in the center in a very long and narrow double roll. The dough is very thick so you will be able to roll the sides only once. Flip the dough seam side down and cut it crosswise in half so that you have two 9-inch-long pieces. The top of the dough will retract when you cut it, exposing the filling. Place the loaves seam side down in the prepared baking pans, cover them well with plastic wrap, and let them proof until risen to the tops of the pans, 2 to 3 hours.

PREHEATING THE OVEN - About 30 minutes before the dough is fully proofed, arrange a rack on the oven's bottom shelf and clear away all racks above the one being used. Preheat the oven to 325oF (160oC).

BAKING THE BREAD - Brush the tops of the loaves with the beaten egg, and sprinkle with the sesame seeds. Bake until the breads turn a rich brown color, 40 to 45 minutes, rotating them halfway into the bake. Let cool for 10 minutes, then immediately remove them from the pans onto a rack, using a spatula to loosen the breads if necessary. (Do not allow the breads to cool in the pans or the sugar will harden and they will stick in the pans.) The breads will crack and seem to collapse as you remove them from the pans, but this is their correct final shape.

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Table of Contents


BAKING BASICS

Ingredients, Equipment, and Techniques (3)

Breads by Category (20)

STARTING WITH FLOUR

The Soul of Bread (25)

Into the Wheat Fields (41)

Threshing Days (49)

Stone Grinding (57)

Roller Milling (71)

CRAFTING BREAD

Unraveling Sourdough (87)

In Praise of Pre-ferments (101)

A Very Small Artisan Bakery (109)

A Very Big Artisan Bakery (121)

A Baker's Wood-Fired Oven (129)

SPECIALTY BREADS

Old World Rye Breads (141)

A Neapolitan Pizzaiolo (151)

Pandoro: Patience's Reward (161)

A New York Bialy (169)

THE BAKING LIFE

A Baker's Training (179)

Following Tradition (197)

Competition Baking (207)

Sources (222)

Addresses (224)

Acknowledgments (226)

Index (229)

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Sort by: Showing all of 3 Customer Reviews
  • Anonymous

    Posted April 3, 2006

    Best recipes so far

    I've tried making ciabatta from numerous books and recipes. All failed because most produced a crumb similar to Wonder bread. The ciabatta recipes came out as close to what I would find in a true artisan bakery. I've made the ciabatta, french, and cinnamon-walnut. I think the main failure of this book is vagueness. After reading thru the book twice and assuming certain steps and procedures I was able to produce these breads with no effort. Because of this, I don't recommend this book as a first book for baking bread.

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  • Anonymous

    Posted December 2, 2003

    I loved the book

    This book has helped me in my quest to duplicate bread found in specialty shops. I found the pictures and stories very interesting. Each recipe has a skill level and I attempted the beginner and intermediate recipes with great results.

    Was this review helpful? Yes  No   Report this review
  • Anonymous

    Posted August 8, 2003

    Complicated

    I had to buy this book for school, and I wish I would have known it was optional before I took the class or I would have saved my money. This book is way too complicated to understand and the text is really not all that interesting. Honestly, I never even looked at it once for my Artisan Breads class. I thought I would try some of the recipies at home and they were so complex I just gave up.

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