As the Romans Do: The Delights, Dramas and Daily Diversions of Life in the Eternal City
How Eternal City got to be that way AN EXPATRIATE AMERICAN WRITES LOVINGLY OF LIFE IN ROME AND OF ITS RESIDENTS. IT IS ESSENTIAL READING FOR VISITORS Just in time for the Jubilee 2000 celebration in Rome comes As the Romans Do (William Morrow; $20), an insightful look at life in contemporary Rome. With more than a little humor sprinkled through this cultural survey, author Alan Epstein weaves in the 3,000 years of history that informs today's Eternal City. Epstein, an American with a doctorate in European history, allowed Rome to seduce him on his first visit in 1975. On subsequent visits, his ardor grew stronger and, 20 years after that first visit, he, his wife and their two sons shifted into expat mode and moved there. Rome, he writes in his introduction, has been around so long, has been ruler of the known (to Romans, at any rate) world and a mere observer, and has accumulated so much experience over the millennia that 'all it wants to do is exist in eternity according to the wisdom of what it has learned.' For the Romans of 2000, 'the lessons are obvious. Life is to be lived passionately, excessively, publicly - in bars, restaurants, streets and piazzas - applying charm and style mixed with a healthy respect for tradition.' And for the next 284 pages, Epstein tells us with charm and style - and a healthy respect for tradition - what makes the city and, most particularly, its people so attractive, so frustrating, so perplexing, and often so difficult to leave. He delves into virtually every aspect of Roman culture, explaining through examples and anecdotes and the wisdom he has gained from 25 years of observation. For example, take the Roman male. To the uninitiated, he may seem proud, arrogant, worldly, at ease with himself in every situation. But as Epstein learned from female Roman friends, he is also thin-skinned, easily hurt when criticized, particularly by women - his wife, his lover, his mother. Especially his mother. There may be a lot of macho in his confident strolling down the Via Veneto, but lurking under those $1,200 worth of Armani threads is the soul of a mama's boy. Rome remains the capital of la dolce vita, the sweet life, even if it is not quite as excessive as portrayed in the Fellini film of the same name. Romans, according to Epstein, live in the moment more than almost anyone on Earth. Dues are to be paid at some vague future date, perhaps long after a Roman draws the final breath. That explains why, for example, they smoke - almost everyone, almost everywhere. And why they lie for hours in the sun, defying cancer-causing rays, to get that perfect tan. It also explains their attitude toward sex. 'It is no more - or less - than a pleasurable fact of life, like eating and sleeping and talking and walking and reading a magazine,' Epstein writes. 'Romans do not fall in love any more or less than other people, but they do have more sex, and they are more likely to engage in indiscriminate sex - without either guilt or contraception - than their non-Latin counterparts.' Whether discoursing on the excellent cuisine or the historical foundations of the predominant habits and niceties of civil intercourse, Epstein captures the heady atmosphere of Rome so completely as to make this book essential for anyone who would understand the city before heading there.
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