As the Romans Do: An American Family's Italian Odyssey

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Overview

A celebration of the character and style of one of the world's most spectacular cities! This vibrant insider's view of the most mature city on earth is the perfect companion for anyone who loves anything Italian. In 1995, after a twenty-year love affair with Italy, Alan Epstein fulfilled his dream to live in Rome. In As the Romans Do, he celebrates the spirit of this stylish, dramatic, ancient city that formed the hub of a far-flung empire and introduced the Mediterranean culture to the rest of the world. He also reveals today's Roman men and women in all their appealing contradictions: their gregarious caffe culture; inborn artistic flair; passionate appreciation of good food; instinctive mistrust of technology; showy sex appeal; ingrained charm and expressiveness; surprisingly unusual attitudes toward marriage and religion; and much, much more.

Product Details

  • ISBN-13: 9780060933951
  • Publisher: HarperCollins Publishers
  • Publication date: 6/28/2001
  • Pages: 304
  • Sales rank: 434,985
  • Series: Harper Perennial
  • Product dimensions: 5.30 (w) x 7.90 (h) x 0.80 (d)

Meet the Author

Alan Epstein holds a Ph.D. in European history from New York University. A successful author and speaker on Italian life and culture, he also offers corporate and private escorted tours, special events, and retreats in Rome and other parts of Italy. He has reported on Italian life for America Online and is a regular Europe correspondent for American radio. He has appeared on Oprah and numerous other television shows. He lives with his wife and two sons in the heart of Rome.

Read an Excerpt

Chapter One

Just Another Day in the Piazza:
The Show Must Go On

Not everybody who comes to Rome, either to visit or to stay, as we have, likes it. In fact, if you polled visitors arriving from other countries, asking them where their favorite places are in Italy or where they would want to live if they were ever to embark on just such an enterprise, few would list Rome as their first choice. Most of them would focus variously on some spot in Tuscany, either the cities — Florence, Siena, Lucca, Pisa, Cortona — or the delightful countryside that surrounds these beautiful places and gives new meaning to the words "bucolic" and "tranquil." In fact, there are so many people of British extraction living in the Florence-Siena vicinity that it has been dubbed "Chiantishire," in honor of the English way of identifying place.

Rome is considered too "Italian" for the tastes of many of the English and North Americans who come to Italy to vacation, recreate, sightsee, or indulge. Rome is too "other," too much like venues the average English-speaking traveler would never think to experience-Cairo, Beirut, Jerusalem, or other placesin the Middle East, or Sicily, Greece, or Turkey, lands that barely qualify for being called "Europe."

What gives Rome this character, what makes Rome, Rome, is a sense of drama, of the theatrical, the exaggerated; a quality that pervades everyday life and distinguishes the city from most places one would find in the United States, Canada, England, and the other countries in the English-speaking world, as well as northern Europe. People live in these places precisely for the reason that nothingmuch happens, that nothing much should happen, at least not in a way that creates public spectacle. Rome is not like that. Every ounce of its soul is devoted to the art of being seen, to the show, to a way of being that opts for dramatization at the expense of understatement, histrionics that push aside silence. The ethos of Rome partakes of another culture the Levantine, the Latin-rather than the European. The first thing I noticed on the way to my hotel after landing at Cairo, another Mediterranean capital, other than the fact that I was thinking that I probably wouldn't make it there alive, is that every driver, for no apparent reason, is leaning on his horn, creating a maddening cacophony that has only one purpose —create a disturbance, to liven up the moment, to add a stupefying sense of dislocation in order to cancel out the reality that nothing much is really happening.

Although drivers do not use their horns much in Rome (in fact, it is considered bad form, a brutta figura; if you do hear a toot-toot, chances are someone is trying to acknowledge his friend on the street), the same principle of commotion applies. The other day, in the Piazza Santa Maria Liberatrice, in Testaccio, not far from Piazza Testaccio, one of Rome's most characteristic open-air markets, popular among the locals and near to where we live, an incident erupted that illustrates perfectly the sense of making the ordinary encounters of everyday existence a matter of life and death.

The piazza was crowded with people of all ages. The elderly were occupying the many benches, while children made use of the swings, slides, and climbing frames of the play areas as their parents watched and chatted with one another. Several young boys, including Julian and Elliott, our nine- and six-year-old sons, were playing soccer with a soft, light ball not far from a bench where four elderly women were sitting. The ball strayed often in the direction of the anziane, and, in fact, on more than one occasion glanced off their bench, bringing less than loving looks and sporadic admonitions. Finally, exasperated at her inability to carry on conversation — as she has done in the same spot for probably the last forty years-without the nuisance of having to dodge a harmless but definitely annoying ball, one of the anziane grabbed it and would not let go, placing the palla in a plastic bag she was holding.

The six boys crowded around the bench, engulfing the four steadfast matrons. Loud words and a million hand gestures began to fly — to no avail, as it turned out, because the woman would not budge. This brought into the fray the mother — obviously peeved that the conversation in which she was excitedly engaged on her telefonino, her portable cell phone, had been interruptedof one of the offending ragazzi.

She was dressed alla romana, that is, as if she were on her way to an audition for a movie, TV show, play, commercial, or whatever anyone would have for her. She was wearing heavy makeup, accentuating her deep blue eyes — a rarity for Romans — with dark liner that extended past the sockets, creating a kind of catlike effect.Her long, full head of curly jet-black hair was flying in the breeze, as were her bronzed hands and arms.She wore a glowing orange sweater that crisscrossed in the fron and revealed, here and there, glimpses of her bright white bra, made more obvious by her outsized body guestures — which forced her to become distracted now and then from her primary mission by having to pull together the folds of her sweater so as to avoid revealing everything — and by the dark skin of her killer tan.

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  • Posted June 11, 2011

    I Also Recommend:

    A Must Read for Italophiles

    If you have ever wanted to visit Rome, have visited Rome, or harbor a romantic notion of moving there to escape the "rat-race", you simply must read this book. There were times I literally laughed out loud, and other times where I ran to fetch a pen so I could underline a passage I knew I'd want to refer to later. Mr. Epstein admits Rome's faults (the crowds! the traffic! and why does everything take so long?!) but he also does a phenomenal job of highlighting Rome's many charms and delights. His references to places in and around Rome could serve well as a brief itinerary. It was a fun and easy read. I truly enjoyed this book and I know it's one I will read again and again. I only wish Mr. Epstein had included a bibliography or a list of recommended reading. I'm always on the look out for all things Italian!

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  • Anonymous

    Posted April 25, 2000

    As the Romans Do: The Delights, Dramas and Daily Diversions of Life in the Eternal City

    How Eternal City got to be that way AN EXPATRIATE AMERICAN WRITES LOVINGLY OF LIFE IN ROME AND OF ITS RESIDENTS. IT IS ESSENTIAL READING FOR VISITORS Just in time for the Jubilee 2000 celebration in Rome comes As the Romans Do (William Morrow; $20), an insightful look at life in contemporary Rome. With more than a little humor sprinkled through this cultural survey, author Alan Epstein weaves in the 3,000 years of history that informs today's Eternal City. Epstein, an American with a doctorate in European history, allowed Rome to seduce him on his first visit in 1975. On subsequent visits, his ardor grew stronger and, 20 years after that first visit, he, his wife and their two sons shifted into expat mode and moved there. Rome, he writes in his introduction, has been around so long, has been ruler of the known (to Romans, at any rate) world and a mere observer, and has accumulated so much experience over the millennia that 'all it wants to do is exist in eternity according to the wisdom of what it has learned.' For the Romans of 2000, 'the lessons are obvious. Life is to be lived passionately, excessively, publicly - in bars, restaurants, streets and piazzas - applying charm and style mixed with a healthy respect for tradition.' And for the next 284 pages, Epstein tells us with charm and style - and a healthy respect for tradition - what makes the city and, most particularly, its people so attractive, so frustrating, so perplexing, and often so difficult to leave. He delves into virtually every aspect of Roman culture, explaining through examples and anecdotes and the wisdom he has gained from 25 years of observation. For example, take the Roman male. To the uninitiated, he may seem proud, arrogant, worldly, at ease with himself in every situation. But as Epstein learned from female Roman friends, he is also thin-skinned, easily hurt when criticized, particularly by women - his wife, his lover, his mother. Especially his mother. There may be a lot of macho in his confident strolling down the Via Veneto, but lurking under those $1,200 worth of Armani threads is the soul of a mama's boy. Rome remains the capital of la dolce vita, the sweet life, even if it is not quite as excessive as portrayed in the Fellini film of the same name. Romans, according to Epstein, live in the moment more than almost anyone on Earth. Dues are to be paid at some vague future date, perhaps long after a Roman draws the final breath. That explains why, for example, they smoke - almost everyone, almost everywhere. And why they lie for hours in the sun, defying cancer-causing rays, to get that perfect tan. It also explains their attitude toward sex. 'It is no more - or less - than a pleasurable fact of life, like eating and sleeping and talking and walking and reading a magazine,' Epstein writes. 'Romans do not fall in love any more or less than other people, but they do have more sex, and they are more likely to engage in indiscriminate sex - without either guilt or contraception - than their non-Latin counterparts.' Whether discoursing on the excellent cuisine or the historical foundations of the predominant habits and niceties of civil intercourse, Epstein captures the heady atmosphere of Rome so completely as to make this book essential for anyone who would understand the city before heading there.

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  • Anonymous

    Posted April 10, 2000

    As the Romans Do: The Delights, Dramas and Daily Diversions of Life in the Eternal City

    'Italy's unique character has never been epitomized more tantalizingly than in Alan Epstein's engaging book, As the Romans Do . For starters, Alan is a completely wonderful story teller. Period. And, the strange, comical, moving, and enigmatic situations he and his family found themselves in are rich material for his skill. I loved this book because it helped me to understand exactly why I find Italy so enchanting. If you are an Italophile, don't miss this book under any circumstances; you will adore it. And if you aren't,you will be after you immerse yourself in the delightful and delicious world created by these pages.

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  • Anonymous

    Posted April 11, 2000

    As the Romans Do: The Delights, Dramas and Daily Diversions of Life in the Eternal City

    'The sparkling intelligence with which Alan Epstein manages to celebrate both the virtues and vices of the Romans is much like Luigi Barzini's The Italians, which still makes a good read today, decades after it was written. This is due in part to the timelessness of the issues he brought up and I think it is very much in this vein that Epstein muses about Rome, providing anecdote and historical reference as living drama. Like Tim Parks's Verona based book, An Italian Education, its gentle humour makes it easy to read, and its erudition manages to bring the reader into the vivid, colorful epidsodes. The best thing that can be said is that, though one doesn't have to love Rome or the Romans in order to enjoy reading Epstein's, As the Romans Do, one may be sorely tempted to pick up a tip or two from a people who gave us the ultimate tribute when it came to presenting credentials: 'Civis Romanus Sum,' 'I am a Roman Citizen'.

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  • Anonymous

    Posted April 3, 2000

    Delightful stroll through the Eternal City

    Ideal for anyone who has ever been to Rome or who has ever dreamed of going to Rome. It is told from the point of view of a man who truly loves the city and who can overlook its shortcomings. His descriptions of life in Rome evoke not just memories of the physical surroundings but also of the people and the mood of the city.

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  • Anonymous

    Posted April 2, 2000

    As the Romans Do: The Delights, Dramas and Daily Diversions of Life in the Eternal City

    'Alan Epstein has had an ongoing love affair with Italy. It started long ago when he was younger, and has never waned. This transplanted San Franciscan, in his new volume As the Romans Do, describes his non-fictional odyssey - the history, the culture, how Rome has invaded his very soul with an intense and romantic fervor. Whether on his weekly jog through the centro storico, his discovery of some of the city's hidden treasures, his confrontations with the Roman way of doing business, how his family has adapted to this different lifestyle, you sense his infectious enthusiasm, his passion and joy of just being there. It makes you want to book the next flight to Rome

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  • Anonymous

    Posted March 4, 2000

    As the Romans Do: The Delights, Dramas and Daily Diversions of Life in the Eternal City

    'As the Romans Do is a must read for anyone who enjoys anything Italian. It was entertaining, insightful, and very informative. If you liked Mayle or Mayes, you will love Epstein. I plan to give it as a gift to all my friends

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    Posted December 14, 2008

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    Posted May 31, 2011

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    Posted November 2, 2008

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