Baking by Flavor

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Overview

Flavor is the very essence of fine baking, the source of wonderful tastes and aromas that tempt the palate and delight the senses. In Baking by Flavor, Lisa Yockelson shares exciting new ideas for building flavor in baked goods that can make virtually any recipe burst with new vigor and freshness. Chapter by chapter, Baking by Flavor reveals techniques for creating luscious sweets in eighteen flavors -- including chocolate, vanilla, lemon, almond, and buttercrunch. These techniques can be used to add depth and definition to both classic and original desserts.

The book features 260 carefully selected recipes, which include many inspiring ideas for bringing new life to favorite recipes. See...

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Overview

Flavor is the very essence of fine baking, the source of wonderful tastes and aromas that tempt the palate and delight the senses. In Baking by Flavor, Lisa Yockelson shares exciting new ideas for building flavor in baked goods that can make virtually any recipe burst with new vigor and freshness. Chapter by chapter, Baking by Flavor reveals techniques for creating luscious sweets in eighteen flavors -- including chocolate, vanilla, lemon, almond, and buttercrunch. These techniques can be used to add depth and definition to both classic and original desserts.

The book features 260 carefully selected recipes, which include many inspiring ideas for bringing new life to favorite recipes. See how a pound cake springs to life when sugar is scented with vanilla, butter is creamed with vanilla bean scrapings, and egg yolks are beaten with a double-strength vanilla extract... Discover how dark chocolate brownies become richly sensuous when chopped nuts, lightly coated with cocoa powder and confectioners' sugar, are added to a creamy batter. From Cocoa-Chocolate Chip Pillows and Buttercrunch Melt-a-Ways to Apricot Oatmeal Breakfast Scones and Spice Ripple Keeping Cake, each delectable dessert sings with flavor.

Throughout, Yockelson's clearly written, easy-to-follow instructions make this book a joy to read and to use in the kitchen, while dozens of photographs beautifully illustrate select ingredients, equipment, and finished presentations. With a host of exciting new ways to make flavor-rich cakes, cookies, muffins, tea breads, scones, sweet rolls, and more, Baking by Flavor will forever revolutionize every cook's approach to baking -- with delicious results.

Editorial Reviews

From Barnes & Noble
The Barnes & Noble Review
Attention, all home bakers: Lisa Yockelson has developed a new technique for baking that can invigorate your favorite recipes. In addition, she will give you 260 new recipes, all based on the concept of packing as much flavor intensity into baked goods as possible. This is quite a deal.

Take lemon cake (please). Yockelson scoffs at those who would add lemon extract to pound cake batter and call it a lemon cake. Her version marinates grated lemon rind in lemon extract and lemon juice before adding it to the batter; uses buttermilk and lemon-flavored granulated sugar to play up the acid taste of lemon; and finishes it off with a soaking glaze and a buttery sweet-sharp lemon topping. Her chocolatey brownies become richer still when chopped nuts (lightly tossed in melted butter and vanilla extract, then coated with cocoa powder and confectioner's sugar) are added.

The theory, then, is to build tiers of similar and compatible flavors within a cake or a batch of scones or cookies. Yockelson boosts batters and dough with extracts, seasoned sugars, nut flours, spices, dried and glazed fruit, citrus juice, and chopped candy. She gilds the lily with icings, frostings, melted butter and spice dips, or brush-on washes. She even intensifies her own store-bought vanilla extract by scraping in the seeds from half a small vanilla bean. I bet that if you analyze the structure of some of your own favorite recipes, you'll realize that they use some of these techniques (and could use even more).

Yockelson's book is divided into 18 flavors, arranged alphabetically: almond, apricot, banana, blueberry, butter, buttercrunch, caramel and butterscotch, chocolate, cinnamon, coconut, coffee and mocha, ginger, lemon, peanut and peanut butter, rum, spice, sweet cheese, and vanilla. Within each flavor section are recipes for cakes, muffins, brownies, cookies, and so forth. Preceding the parade of flavors are charts with flavor-compatible keys, and dominant flavoring agents/ingredients, plus recipes for new basics for your flavor pantry like vanilla- or lemon-scented sugar, almond and mocha syrup. Yockelson has really done her homework, and you will enjoy giving her techniques a workout.

The 260 recipes are illustrated by more than 100 photographs, and the last chapter about freezing baked goods is especially useful. (Ginger Curwen)

Publishers Weekly
This excellent roundup of all kinds of delicious deserts is organized by flavor (chocolate, banana, cinnamon, rum, etc.) rather than type of baked good. Yockelson lays out her flavor theory: "Flavor-layering is accomplished by using a combination of compatible ingredients in one recipe." She also talks specifically about methods for enhancing the flavors of various batters and doughs, and provides several charts illustrating flavor compatibility and flavoring agents. Additional chapters on equipment, key ingredients (with instructions for making Clarified Butter, Coconut Streusel and other components) and techniques are invaluable to the serious baker. After all that preparation, Yockelson thankfully writes solid, inventive recipes that clearly illustrate her theory. In the almond chapter, Fallen Chocolate Almond Cake contains almond liqueur, almond extract and almond flour; the lemon chapter offers Lemon-Lime Cake with Glazed Citrus Threads pumped up with juice and zest, and in the chapter on coffee and mocha, Espresso and Bittersweet Chocolate Chunk Torte has espresso powder, bittersweet chocolate and unsweetened chocolate. Even chapters on butter and vanilla, two flavors that are rarely considered as such, boast such strong selections as Grandma Lilly's Butter Pound Cake, Buttercrunch Flats with toffee, Vanilla Crumb Buns and Vanilla Cream Waffles. Many of the 260 recipes offer variations, which means one could spend many happy days testing Yockelson's theory. (Mar.) Forecast: Joining the recent spate of "big" baking and desert books, this certainly deserves a spot on the dedicated baker's shelf. Yockelson, author of 10 books and frequent contributor to many cooking magazines, has a gimmick, but it's one with substance that should work to push sales. Copyright 2001 Cahners Business Information.
Library Journal
Yockelson is the author of a dozen or so other cookbooks (Layer Cakes and Sheet Cakes, A Country Baking Treasury), but this impressive work is far more ambitious than any of her previous efforts. A dedicated baker and an obvious perfectionist, she developed more than 250 recipes designed to highlight specific flavors, from almond to coffee and mocha to vanilla. She refers to the process that resulted in her intensely flavorful, irresistible desserts as "flavor layering," and most of the recipes use her chosen ingredient in more than one form or in more than one of the several components involved. Almond Pull-Aparts, for example, are made with a buttery dough that contains almond extract as well as almond flour, a creamy almond filling in addition to an almond paste and an almond crumb topping. Many of the recipes also offer options for adding "an extra surge of flavor" (e.g., adding dried blueberries to Blueberry Coffee Cake) or "an aromatic topknot of flavor" (such as using her "intensified vanilla"). The painstakingly detailed recipe instructions include both what she calls "observations," reassuring tips for success, and sidebars providing her "Best Baking Advice." The chapters devoted to buttercrunch or to caramel and butterscotch (not to mention the ones on peanut butter, chocolate, and coconut) would be reason enough to buy the book, but Yockelson's unusual approach, knowledge, and passion make this more than just a collection of delectable recipes. Essential for all collections. Copyright 2001 Cahners Business Information.

Product Details

  • ISBN-13: 9780471361701
  • Publisher: Wiley, John & Sons, Incorporated
  • Publication date: 3/28/2002
  • Edition description: First Edition
  • Edition number: 1
  • Pages: 600
  • Product dimensions: 8.00 (w) x 9.08 (h) x 1.26 (d)

Meet the Author

A graduate of the London Cordon Bleu, Lisa Yockelson is a cookbook author whose articles, essays, and recipes have appeared in national publications such as the Boston Globe, the Washington Post, and Gastronomica: The Journal of Food and Culture. As a baking journalist and recipe developer who concentrates on classic and contemporary American as well as European regional baking specialties, Lisa has spent many professional years establishing methods and techniques for flavor-building and texture-polishing baked goods—two compelling areas that have become a hallmark of her research and form the groundwork for this book as well as for ChocolateChocolate, both IACP award—winners. Baking Style: Art, Craft, Recipes, her latest and most personal baking cookbook, combines the genre of the culinary essay with recipes, their corresponding methods, and illustrative images, revealing the author's uniquely intimate expression of the baking process. Join Lisa at her website and blog, www.bakingstylediary.com, where bakers of all stripes can read about new cookbooks, baking equipment and recipes, ask questions, and discover new recipes and essays.

Read an Excerpt

The Focus and Purpose of Baking by Flavor

In many ways Baking by Flavor is a personal baking memoir, a recipe journal that records the way that my own baking style has taken shape. It's also a detailed look into how recipes that underscore specific flavors can be highlighted, then uplifted, intensified, and invigorated. It's important to put these recipes in an evolutionary time frame: a good number of them have evolved in my kitchen over the last 12 years, and many well before then. Although the exact concept had not been codified in my kitchen until a certain time, the idea for packing as much flavor as possible into baked goods has always been a significant consideration in my baking and work in recipe development.

The focus of this book is threefold: (1) to explore how a particular flavor is best developed in a recipe and then imparted to a certain sweet; (2) to elevate the flavor in traditional baking recipes that primarily use doughs and batters, and to deliver them into an up-to-date setting; and (3) to chronicle my research into flavor-baking. Baking by Flavor is both a baking cookbook about the hows and whys of bringing out flavor in baked goods and a compendium of recipes that spotlight many appealing flavors.

In researching and formulating the concept of flavor-baking, I found myself sifting through, and ultimately challenging, traditional formulas, procedures, and approaches, and finding ways to introduce taste into baked sweets and their accompanying fillings, glazes, frostings, and sauces. In the beginning I began to inspect recipes through a "taste magnifying glass." As a result, some old recipes seemed quaint. The recipefor Essence of Chocolate Squares on page 282 is a good example of that process. The squares are composed of two layers: a dense and fudgy chocolate cake layer covered completely by a creamy chocolate frosting. My goal was to create, in one bar cookie, an intense chocolate flavor with a bittersweet edge, a moist denseness, a buttery "crumb," and a thick swath of frosting that sweetly contrasts to and merges with the layer beneath. Actually, I was going after something that was part brownie, part confection. Over many months, the composition of this sweet was fine-tuned and ultimately revised to my taste. Many more of my recipes went the route of cultivation and revision, and I worked in this area to satisfy my own contemporary tastes, and to rescue and improve upon recipes that seemed, quite honestly, boring.

The purpose of Baking by Flavor is to offer to all cooks whose passion is baking—whether at home or in a restaurant kitchen—some challenging ways to look at and improve recipes in particular flavor categories.

The Organization of the Chapters

PART I of this book "The Art of Baking by Flavor," is for the conceptual baker, while Part II, "The Flavors," is for the passionate, in-the-kitchen baker. The first four chapters in the book (" The Way to Bake by Flavor," "An Inventory of Baking Equipment," "Creating a Baking Pantry," and "Craft and Technique") illustrate the way you go about making a particular flavor taste dynamic, show you how to make pantry staples that brighten the recipes, survey the kind of equipment used throughout the book, and explain fundamental methods for working with the batters and doughs that are an important element of the recipes. Chapters 5 through 22 (Part II) put all of those notions into recipe form.

The recipes are organized by specific flavor.

The five charts in Part I provide important background material. They've been designed so that home bakers and professionals alike can obtain a range of detailed information about flavors, batters, and doughs at a glance.

Chapter 23, "About Freezing Baked Goods," details the range of baked goods in this book that can be frozen either in their completed state or in dough form, gives recommendations for freezer storage time, and offers suggestions for reheating what you defrost.

About the Recipes

In my experience, batters and doughs are the most flexible and responsive to high-intensity flavoring. As a result, the recipes in this book have been developed around specific baked goods that are styled with them: butter cakes, pound cakes, coffee cakes, keeping cakes, tea cakes and loaves, tortes, bar cookies, drop cookies, rolled cookies, press-in-the-pan cookies (such as shortbread), biscuits and scones, muffins, all kinds of yeasted sweet rolls (sticky buns, crumb and streusel buns, and schnecken), pancakes (both flapjacks and crêpes) and waffles. All the fillings, icings, frostings, and glazes that flatter what you bake are included, too.

A typical recipe is composed of an introduction, a list of ingredients, a notation of the bakeware used, and the procedure. Sometimes an "observation line" will appear in the procedure at a critical point in the recipe. The observation line reveals what the dough or batter looks like at a particular (or critical) moment, explains a mixture's consistency or texture, or gives the reason for a certain technique. Essentially, inserting that observation line is my way of hovering over you as you bake.

The recipes are written in some detail, so that an act, function, and process—even a basic one—are defined and described. Each recipe concludes with information on removing the sweet from the baking pan and cooling, and, as appropriate, details about storage.

A variation (or two) is included at the end of selected recipes. Some recipes conclude with a line that begins with "For an extra surge of flavor." This last fillip, which is optional, shows you the way to add a burst of taste to a particular sweet. The extra ingredient may be a scented sugar, a flurry of flavored baking chips, or a topping that would enhance the recipe further. Some recipes also end with the line, "For an aromatic top-note of flavor," or with the line "For a textural contrast." A refined, often subtle, top-note of flavor can be added to a batter or dough, for example, in the form of a scented sugar or dash of liqueur; while dispensable, this ingredient would contribute to the over-all taste and flavor aroma of the sweet. And texturally, the crunch of nuts (or splatter of chips) fluttering through a batter or dough would also provide a lively, welcome contrast.

Many recipes contain a note about how long a specific bakery product keeps after baking. The phrase "Freshly baked, the cookies keep for 3 to 4 days" (for example) appears only when the bakery product has sound room-temperature storage life (and can be reheated, as necessary, with good results during that time). For guidance and directions on freezer storage, consult Chapter 23. If the "freshly baked" phrase does not appear at the end of a recipe, plan to use the particular sweet on the day it's made. To keep baked goods at room temperature, store them in an airtight cookie tin or cake keeper. And many recipes conclude with "Best baking advice," a tag line that explains the reason for a certain ingredient, method, or baking strategy.

To bake from this book to its best advantage, be sure to read the introduction to the recipe, which should give you some sense of what to expect: Will the cake be dense or fine-grained and feathery textured? Are the cookies chewy or crispy, thin or chunky? Are the sweet rolls gooey, sticky, and nutty, or are they silky within and topped with a rough and crunchy streusel? Is this a genteel, coffee cake kind of sweet or a mega-chocolate dessert? Then, read through the recipe in its entirety. Preheat the oven, prepare the baking pan, and measure each ingredient as the recipe indicates (allowing enough time for the butter to soften or the chocolate to melt, for example). Set out the important pieces of equipment you'll be using.

Generally, the recipes in this book begin with a batter or dough, but oftentimes include a filling, topping, icing, glaze, or frosting. A multidimensional recipe can be made in stages, with one or more of the elements prepared a day or two ahead of baking. Other recipes can be put together in the time it takes to preheat the oven.

So much of what we use in our daily lives has a consistent, occasionally regimented, almost cookie-cutter style. It's no wonder that we crave a craggy oatmeal cookie, a towering cinnamon bun, or a softly textured slice of chocolate cake, for these are heartening and satisfying. And they look so appealing. Although there's no substitute for the clean lines of an elegant cookie or a beautifully domed loaf cake, the occasional mark of what's handcrafted is welcome in the best of kitchens. While all the recipes in Baking by Flavor are about taste, they also demonstrate good design and sound technique. A luxurious slice of pound cake, a jagged dipping cookie, or a crumbly scone may look a bit rustic, but the natural, genuine quality of each is always seductive.

Table of Contents

Foreword xiv
Acknowledgments xv
Introduction xviii
Part I The Art of Baking by Flavor
1 The Way to Bake by Flavor 3
2 An Inventory of Baking Equipment 29
3 Creating a Baking Pantry 51
4 Craft and Technique 77
Part II The Flavors
5 Almond 104
Almond Pull-Aparts 106
Almond Rusks 109
Pumpkin-Almond Keeping Cake 112
Almond Butter Cake 114
Fallen Chocolate Almond Cake 115
A Big Almond, Cornmeal, and Dried Cherry Sharing Cookie 117
Buttery Glazed Almond Ring 118
Butter Almond Pancakes 120
Bittersweet Almond Chunk Brownies 121
Almond Shortbread 122
Sweet Almond and Chocolate Chip Drop Biscuits 124
Delicate Almond Madeleines 125
Almond and Dried Cherry Tart 126
Almond Tart Dough 128
Almond and Bittersweet Chocolate Nugget Cookies 131
6 Apricot 132
Apricot Oatmeal Breakfast Scones 134
Glazed Apricot, Almond, and Chocolate Torte 136
Apricot Sandwich Cookies 137
Apricot Babka 140
Brown Sugar Apricot Bars 143
Apricot Thumbprint Cookies 144
Apricot Schnecken 146
Luxurious Apricot Spread 149
Apricot and Hazelnut Tart 150
7 Banana 152
Sweet Banana and Chocolate Chip Scones 154
Texas Size Banana Muffins 156
Spiced Banana Breakfast Loaf 158
Feathery Banana Pancakes 159
Banana and Dried Cranberry Tea Cake 160
Banana, Walnut, and Chocolate Chip Waffles 162
Cocoa Banana Loaf 163
Banana Layer Cake 164
8 Blueberry 166
Tender, Cakelike Blueberry Muffins 168
Sweet Blueberry Breakfast Biscuits 170
Blueberry Loaf 172
Blueberry-Banana Tea Loaf 174
Blueberry Cornmeal Waffles 175
Blueberry Coffee Cake 176
Blueberry Tea Cake 178
Baby Blueberry Corn Muffins 180
Blueberries and Cream Breakfast Cake 181
Sweet Milk Blueberry Eancakes 182
Sour Cream Blueberry Muffins 184
9 Butter 186
Butter Crescents 188
Butter Layer Cake 189
Cream Cake Filling 191
Grandma Lilly's Butter Pound Cake 192
Butter Biscuits 194
Butter Spritz Cookies 195
Butter Cookie Cut-Outs 197
Buttermilk Butter Pound Cake 198
Butter Shortbread 200
Golden Butter Cake 202
10 Buttercrunch 204
Buttercrunch Melt-a-Ways 206
Buttercrunch Flats 207
Kitchen Sink Buttercrunch Bars 209
Buttercrunch Butter Buns 210
Buttercrunch Almond Tea Cake 212
Chewy Buttercrunch Squares 214
Brown Sugar Buttercrunch Coffee Cake with Caramel Buttercrunch Topping 216
Buttercrunch Tea Biscuits 218
Texas-Size Buttercrunch-Pecan-Chip Muffins 220
Almond Fudge Buttercrunch Brownies 222
11 Caramel and Butterscotch 224
Caramel and Butterscotch Chip Pound Cake 226
Caramel Basting Sauce 228
Caramel Custard Sauce 229
Turtle Squares 230
Caramel Nut Topping 232
Caramel Upside-Down Apple Tart 233
Caramel, Nougat, and Walnut Candy Bar Cake 235
Buttery Caramel Sauce 237
Caramel-Walnut Sticky Rolls 238
Creamy Caramel Sticky Coat 240
Caramel Chip Cake 242
Butterscotch Oatmeal Cookies 244
Chocolate-covered Caramel and Peanut Candy Bar Brownies 246
Butterscotch Sour Cream Coffee Cake 248
Butterscotch Pecan Bars 250
12 Chocolate 252
Chocolate Chip Butter Cake 254
Double Chocolate Madeleines 256
Truffled Chocolate-Walnut Brownies 258
Sour Cream Fudge Cake 260
Fudge Cake Frosting 262
Mud Cake 263
Mud Cake Frosting 265
Cocoa-Chocolate Chip Pillows 266
Cocoa-Sour Cream-Chocolate Chip Coffee Cake 268
Memories-of-Childhood Chocolate Cake 270
Chocolate Cream Frosting 272
Chocolate, Coconut, and Chocolate Chip Bar Cookies 273
Bittersweet Chocolate Stollen 274
Double Chocolate Scones 277
Chocolate Coconut Cream Batter Pie 278
Simply Intense Chocolate Brownies 280
Essence of Chocolate Squares 282
Heirloom Chocolate Cake 284
Buttery Chocolate Frosting 285
Big Chocolate-Chocolate Chip Muffins 286
Bittersweet Chocolate Brownies with Pecans 288
13 Cinnamon 290
Lavish Cinnamon Brunch Cake 292
Cinnamon Chip Cinnamon Cake 294
Cinnamon Sticky Buns 296
Cinnamon Raisin Pancakes 299
Cinnamon Chip Scones with Cinnamon-Pecan Streusel 300
Ultra-Cinnamon Pound Cake with Macadamia-Spice Ribbon 302
Cinnamon Butter Rosebuds 304
Cinnamon-Walnut Muffins with Spiced Sugar-Butter Dunk 306
Cinnamon Sour Cream Coffee Cake 308
Cinnamon Apple Cake 310
Cinnamon Ripple Rolls 312
Creamy Cinnamon Roll Icing 314
Cinnamon Nut Crunch Shortbread 315
Cinnamon Walnut Baklava 316
14 Coconut 320
Tropical Carrot and Coconut Cake 322
Coconut Cream Cheese Frosting 321
Coconut-Chocolate Chip Cookies 325
Layered Coconut and Pecan Bars 326
Coconut Cream Coffee Cake Buns 328
Coconut Pastry Cream 331
Coconut Washboards 332
In-Love-with-Coconut Chocolate Cake 334
Coconut Frosting 336
Coconut and Chocolate Chip Picnic Cake 337
Coconut Jumbles 338
Soft Coconut Oatmeal Cookies with Dried Fruit 340
Coconut and Oatmeal Shortbread 342
Coconut and Almond Fudge Squares 343
Toasted Coconut and Macadamia Nut Scones 345
Jumbo Coconut Cupcakes 346
Double Chocolate and Coconut Brownies 348
Coconut Tea Cake 349
Double Coconut Chocolate Chip-Brown Sugar Squares 351
15 Coffee and Mocha 352
Espresso and Bittersweet Chocolate Chunk Torte 354
Mocha Bars 355
Iced Mocha Sweet Rolls 357
Coffee Liqueur Icing 359
Mocha Rusks 360
Mocha Truffle Cookies 362
Espresso Chocolate Chip Shortbread 364
Mocha Chip Pound Cake 366
Coffee and Milk Chocolate Chip Cake 368
Mocha Pecan Waffles 370
Iced Coffee Chocolate Layer Cake 371
Coffee Cream Filling 372
Mega Mocha Pecan Chip Muffins 374
16 Ginger 376
Pumpkin Ginger Cake 378
Chocolate-Ginger Souffle Cake 380
Spicy Gingerbread Cookies 381
Royal Icing Made with Meringue Powder 384
Crystallized Ginger Gingerbread 385
Sour Cream Ginger Keeping Cake 386
Ginger and Macadamia Nut Shortbread 388
Ginger Butter Balls 389
Spicy Molasses Gingerbread 391
Ginger Cracks 392
Ginger Scones 393
Gingerbread Waffles 395
Ginger Molasses Sweet Potato Pie 396
Ginger Brownies 397
Gingery Pumpkin Muffins with Ginger-Sugar Sprinkle 398
17 Lemon 400
Ultra-Lemon Cake 402
Lemon "Soaking" Glaze 404
Lemon "Pouring" Topping 405
Baby Lemon Muffins 405
Lemon Ricotta Pancakes 407
Lemon Tea Loaf 408
Lemon-Lime Cake with Glazed Citrus Threads 410
Lemon Pound Cake 412
Lemon Layer Cake 413
Lemon Custard Filling 415
Lemon Frosting 416
Lemon-Poppyseed Cake 417
Lemon-Walnut Bread 419
Suzanne's Lemon Tart 421
Butter Cookie Tart Dough 423
Lemon Roll 426
Silky Lemon Cream 428
Lemon Crepes with Silky Lemon Cream 430
18 Peanut and Peanut Butter 432
Cocoa-Double Peanut Scones 434
Retro Peanut Butter Cookies 436
Tish's Chocolate-Peanut Butter Cloud Pie 437
Peanut Madness Chunks 440
Rich and Chewy Peanut Butter Squares 441
Double Peanut Bars 443
Peanut Butter Chip Coffee Cake 444
Chocolate, Peanut, and Peanut Butter Candy Fudge Cake 446
Baby Peanut Butter Cakes 447
Layered Chocolate and Peanut Caramel Squares 449
19 Rum 450
Butter Rum Cake 452
Rum Custard Sauce 454
Rum Buns 455
Rum Icing 457
Iced Rum-Raisin Tea Biscuits 458
Pecan, Rum, and Brown Sugar Keeping Cake 460
Rum Pound Cake 462
Feathery Rum Pancakes 464
Creamy Brown Sugar and Cream Rum Sauce 466
Rum and Milk Chocolate Waffles 467
20 Spice 468
Sweet Oatmeal-Raisin Spice Buns 470
Spiced Apple Waffles 473
Sugar and Spice Breakfast Cake 474
Spice Ripple Keeping Cake 476
Spiced and Glazed Chocolate Chip Cake 478
Chocolate Glaze 479
Spice Cake 480
Spice Cake Frosting 482
Spice Scones 482
Spiced Pumpkin and Chocolate Chip Tea Loaf 484
21 Sweet Cheese 486
Cream Cheese Pound Cake 488
Sweet Cheese Buns 489
Cream Cheese-Swirled Brownies 492
Vanilla and Caramel Nougat Cheesecake Torte 494
Cream Cheese Schnecken 495
Cappuccino Cream Cheese Fudge Cake 498
Cream Cheese and Almond Tea Ring 499
Marbled Coconut, Chocolate, and Cream Cheese Cake 502
Chocolate and Cream Cheese-Chocolate Chip Muffins 504
22 Vanilla 506
Vanilla Bean Cream Cake 508
Glazed Vanilla Pound Cake 510
Vanilla Crumb Buns 512
Vanilla Cream Waffles 515
Vanilla Crepes with Soft Vanilla "Spooning" Cream 516
Vanilla Pecan Pie 518
Vanilla Pie Crust 520
Vanilla Crescents 522
Vanilla Layer Cake 524
Vanilla Sugar Cookies 526
Vanilla Bean Shortbread 527
Vanilla Madeleines 528
Vanilla Whipped Cream 530
Vanilla Custard Sauce 531
23 About Freezing Baked Goods 532
Selected Sources for Equipment and Supplies 543
Bibliography 547
Index 551

Recipe

LEMON-LIME CAKE WITH GLAZED CITRUS THREADS
One 10-inch fluted tube cake, creating 16 slices

Fine, long shreds of glazed lemon and lime peel, glistening and bright, weave through this citrus-spiked butter cake batter. For a keen flavor impact, the baked cake is finished with fresh sweet-sharp glaze (it's actually uncooked) which you brush over the cake when it's released from the baking pan. This cake is sweet and tart, and delicious served with a raspberry or blueberry compote.

Nonstick cooking spray, for preparing the cake pan.

Glazed Lemon and Lime Threads
3 lemons, washed well and dried
1 lime, washed well and dried
1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1/4 cup water

Lemon-Lime Butter Cake Batter
2-3/4 cups unsifted bleached all-purpose flour
1/3 cup unsifted bleached cake flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 pound (16 tablespoons or 2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
2 cups superfine sugar
1 tablespoon freshly grated lemon rind
2 teaspoons pure lemon extract
4 large eggs
7/8 cup (1 cup less 2 tablespoons) buttermilk, whisked well
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice

Lemon-Lime Glaze for Brushing on the Warm, Baked Cake
1/4 cup freshly squeezed and strained lemon juice
1/4 cup freshly squeezed and strained lime juice
1/2 cup superfine sugar

Bakeware
10-inch Bundt pan

Make the glazed lemon and lime threads:
Remove the outer peel from each lemon and the lime in thin shreds with a zester, producing fine julienne threads. Place the shreds in a medium-size nonreactive saucepan, cover with 2 inches of cold water, and bring to the boil. Boil for 30 seconds, then pour into a small stainless steel strainer.

Place the granulated sugar and water in a small nonreactive saucepan (preferably enameled cast iron), cover, and cook over low heat until the sugar has dissolved completely. Uncover, add citrus threads and simmer for 5 to 8 minutes, or until the threads look glossy and there is a scant 1 tablespoon of syrup left in the saucepan.

Drain the citrus threads of any syrup, except what clings lightly to them, turn into a small ramekin, and cool completely.

Preheat the oven and prepare the cake pan:
Preheat the oven to 350° F. Film the inside of the Bundt pan with nonstick cooking spray; set aside.

Mix the lemon-lime butter cake batter:
Sift the all-purpose flour, cake flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt onto a sheet of waxed paper.

Cream the butter in the large bowl of a freestanding electric mixer on moderate speed for 3 minutes. Add the superfine sugar in three additions, beating on moderate speed for 1 minute after each portion is added. Beat in the lemon rind and lemon extract. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating for 30 seconds after each addition.

On low speed, alternately add the sifted ingredients in three additions with the buttermilk in two additions, beginning and ending with the sifted mixture. Scrape down the sides of the mixing bowl frequently to keep the batter even-textured. Blend in the limejuice and cooled, glazed citrus peel.

Scrape the batter into the prepared Bundt pan. Gently shake the pan (once or twice) from side to side to level the top.

Bake and cool the cake:
Bake the cake for 55 minutes to 1 hour, or until risen, set, and a wooden pick inserted in the cake withdraws clean. The baked cake will pull away slightly from the sides and central tube of the baking pan.

Let the cake stand in the pan on a cooling rack for 5 to 8 minutes. Invert the cake onto another cooling rack. Place a sheet of waxed paper under the cooling rack to catch any drips of glaze.

Mix the lemon-lime brushing glaze:
Make the brushing glaze while the cake is cooling in the pan. Combine the lemon juice, lime juice, and sugar in a small nonreactive bowl.

Glaze the hot cake:
Using a 1-inch pastry brush, paint the citrus glaze over the surface of the hot cake, taking care to dampen the sides of the cake as well as the top. Cool completely before slicing and serving. Slicing observation: Use a serrated knife to cut the cake neatly and cleanly.

Freshly baked, the cake keeps for 3 days.

Best Baking Advice:
The glazed citrus threads can be made up to 2 days in advance. Refrigerate the simmered citrus threads in the remaining syrup in a tightly covered, nonreactive storage container, but use them at room temperature.

PEANUT MADNESS CHUNKS
About 27 cookies

These are voluptuous cookies, with generous hunks of candy and roasted peanuts snared in a brown-sugar and vanilla-scented dough. A batch of cookie dough can be made up and refrigerated for up to 3 days (or frozen for a month) before baking, so you can have the cookies freshly baked, when the peanut flavor is at its peak.

Peanut Butter Candy Cookie Dough
Eighteen (.6 ounce each) snack-size milk chocolate peanut butter cups (Reese's Milk Chocolate Peanut Butter Cups), each cup cut into 1/2-inch chunks
1-1/2 cups unsifted all-purpose flour
1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar
1/4 teaspoon salt
9 tablespoons (1 stick plus 1 tablespoon) unsalted butter, softened
2 tablespoons shortening
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup firmly packed light brown sugar, sieved if lumpy
1 tablespoon creamy (smooth) peanut butter)
1 large egg
1-1/2 pure teaspoons pure vanilla extract
1 cup whole roasted unsalted peanuts

Bakeware
several cookie sheets

Chill the peanut butter candy chunks:
Place the cut-up candy in a bowl and refrigerate for 20 minutes. Candy chilling observation: Refrigerating the chunks of candy will help to keep them intact as they are worked into the cookie dough.

Mix the peanut butter candy cookie dough:
Whisk the flour, cream of tartar, and salt in a small mixing bowl.

Cream the butter and shortening in the large bowl of a freestanding electric mixer on low speed for 2 minutes. Add the granulated sugar and beat for 1 minute on moderate speed. Add the light brown sugar and beat for a minute longer. Beat in the peanut butter and egg. Blend in the vanilla extract. Scrape down the sides of the mixing bowl frequently with a rubber spatula to keep the dough even-textured. On low speed, add the sifted mixture in two additions, beating just until the particles of flour are absorbed. Work in the candy chunks and peanuts, using a wooden spoon or flat wooden paddle. Dough texture observation: The cookie dough will be stiff and chunky with candy and nuts.

Chill the cookie dough:
Cover the bowl with a sheet of plastic wrap and refrigerate for 15 to 20 minutes.

Preheat the oven and prepare the cookie sheets:
Preheat the oven to 325° F in advance of baking. Line the cookie sheets with lengths of cooking parchment paper.

Spoon the dough onto the prepared cookie sheets:
Place rounded, lightly domed 2-tablespoon mounds of dough, 3 inches apart, onto the lined cookie sheets, placing about nine mounds to a sheet. For the best shaped cookies, push any chunks of candy that jut out into the cookie dough mound.

Bake and cool the cookies:
Bake the cookies in the preheated oven for 15 to 17 minutes, or until just set, with pale golden edges. Let the cookies stand on the sheets for 1 minute, then remove them to cooling racks, using a wide, offset metal spatula. Cool completely.

Freshly baked, the cookies will keep for 2 to 3 days.

CINNAMON CHIP SCONES WITH CINNAMON-PECAN STREUSEL
10 scones

The endearing baby cinnamon chips look positively charming in these coffee-cake-styled scones. If you wish, 1/4 cup of the chips may also be added to the streusel mixture, making it even more deluxe.

Cinnamon-Pecan Streusel
3/4 cup unsifted bleached all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/3 cup plus 3 tablespoons firmly packed light brown sugar, sieved if lumpy
pinch of salt
6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, cold, cut into chunks
3/4 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
3/4 cup chopped pecans

Cinnamon Chip Scone Dough
3 cups plus 2 tablespoons unsifted bleached all-purpose flour
3-1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1-1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
3/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1/4 pound (8 tablespoons or 1 stick) unsalted butter, cold, cut into chunks, cold
1 tablespoon shortening, cold
1-1/4 cups miniature cinnamon-flavored chips
2/3 cup heavy cream
2 large eggs
2 1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

Bakeware
2 heavy cookie sheets or rimmed sheet pans

Preheat the oven and prepare the baking sheets:
Preheat the oven to 400° F. Line the cookie sheets or sheet pans with a length of cooking parchment paper. Bakeware observation: The baking sheets must be heavy, or the cinnamon dough will scorch on the bottom as the scones bake. Double-pan the sheets, if necessary.

Mix the cinnamon-pecan streusel:
Thoroughly combine the flour, cinnamon, light brown sugar, and salt in a medium-size mixing bowl. Scatter over the butter chunks and drizzle over the vanilla extract. Using a pastry blender, or two round-bladed table knives, cut the butter into the flour-sugar mixture until reduced to marble-size bits. Scatter over the chopped pecans and mix them in. With your fingertips, work the mixture until moist clumps of streusel are formed, pressing and crumbling it into large and small lumps.

Make the cinnamon chip scone dough:
Whisk the flour, baking powder, cream of tartar, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, and granulated sugar in a large mixing bowl. Drop in the chunks of butter and tablespoon of shortening. Using a pastry blender, or two round-bladed table knives, cut the fat into the flour until reduced to small nuggets. Further crumble the mixture between your fingertips for 30 seconds to 1 minute. Mix in cinnamon chips.

Whisk the heavy cream, eggs, and vanilla extract in a medium-size mixing bowl. Pour the liquid ingredients over the flour mixture and combine to form the beginnings of a dough using a sturdy wooden spoon or flat wooden spatula. Dough texture observation: At this point the dough will be crumbly. Knead the dough together in the bowl, with your hands until it forms a firm dough, 1 to 2 minutes. If the dough seems very dry, you can add an additional tablespoon of heavy cream, although it should be firm enough to form a stable base for the topping.

Cut the scone dough:
Turn the dough onto a very lightly floured work surface, divide in half and pat each piece into a 6- to 6 1/2-inch round cake. With a chef's knife, cut each cake into five wedges. Cinnamon chip observation: If a chip protrudes from any cut section of the scone dough, just press it back in.

Top the scones with the streusel mixture:
Press some of the streusel topping on top of each triangle of dough, pairing it down with your fingertips or palm of your hand, dividing the topping evenly among all of the scones. Use all of the topping.

Place the scones on the lined cookie sheets, spacing them about 3-1/2 inches apart. Arrange five scones on each sheet.

Bake and cool the scones: Bake the scones for 17 to 18 minutes, or until risen and set. Transfer the scones to cooling racks, using a wide, offset metal spatula. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Freshly baked, the scones will keep for 2 days.

Best Baking Advice:
Press the streusel topping as firmly as possible on top of the unbaked scones without squashing them. If the scones become misshapen, place them on a work surface and plump up the sides with your fingertips.

Copyright © 2002 by Lisa Yockelson.

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  • Anonymous

    Posted September 25, 2008

    Fabulous recipes, maybe a little too delicious ...

    I've owned a copy of this book for several years, and it's consistently reliable. A few years ago I made the Ultra-Lemon Cake on page 402, with the lemon soaking glaze and the lemon pouring topping, recipes directly following the cake recipe. My dad and I ate it so fast we embarrassed ourselves. Three days after baking, it was GONE, with just the two of us having snacked on it. I don't think I made another cake for weeks after that. Truly irresistible. I've made several of the Ultra Lemon Cakes since then, but tend to plan them so we can share the extra calories, instead of eating them all ourselves. The book's first section talks about various ways to give any recipe a flavor boost how to layer a flavor throughout to intensify the result. I've loved learning from this section, since it helps me figure out how to give recipes I already use a bit of a flavor boost without much hassle, and the techniques work in general cookery, not just in baking. After that, Part II, the recipes, divided by flavors. Here are the categories: Almond, apricot, banana, blueberry, butter, buttercrunch, caramel and butterscotch, chocolate, cinnamon, coconut, coffee and mocha, ginger, lemon, peanut and peanut butter, rum, spice, sweet cheese, vanilla. Lots of good flavors, lots of great recipes. I've literally never made a dud from this cookbook, even though I've adapted them, for example, to make use of the baking pans I already have, instead of the sizes mentioned in the book.

    1 out of 1 people found this review helpful.

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