Read an Excerpt
It’s time that we change our attitudes about aging. It’s going to happen to us, whether we complain about it or decide to live our best, most beautiful life. Getting older is a gift; not everyone gets to do it. Personally, I wouldn’t trade my life today to be in my twenties again for anything. Besides, in our current beauty world, you have choices. You can slow down the appearance of aging by simply changing some daily habits, and look younger by adding a little color to your makeup routine.
Beauty Rewind is a detailed guide to addressing your concerns about aging: what causes it, how to prevent it from happening prematurely, how to correct or camouflage it naturally or aggressively, the best products to enhance your skin, the makeup looks that age you, and how to use makeup and current antiaging technology to look as young as you feel. Whether you’re in your late twenties or eighties, I will give you the knowledge to help you look your best at any age.
This book is packed with advice I’ve collected in my twenty-plus years in the beauty industry. So whether you want to recapture your image from ten years ago (before your eyelids started drooping), emphasize your best features now, or just learn how to get rid of the sleep creases on your face before you get to work, then read ahead. And yes, in true Taylor fashion, you’ll learn how to apply a smokey eye that even the young girls will envy.
From Skin-Care Basics to the Latest in Antiaging Technology
Aging happens to us all. But have you noticed some women seem to age better than others? I’ve seen some fortysomethings look like they’re in their late twenties, while others look like they’re in their fifties. We all age at various rates; the trick is to slow that rate down as much as possible and enhance the features we love. Sometimes aging well is genetic, but even good genes will only take you so far. As a makeup artist, I feel truly blessed to have met and worked with thousands of women—real women who don’t have on-call dermatologists and celebrity makeup artists, or referrals to the next big plastic surgeon. As they get older, many women who have never worn makeup all of a sudden feel like they need a little help.
GENETICS AND SKIN
They say you can always tell what a woman will look like as she ages if you look at her mother. That’s only partly true. Genes do play a role in how we age. They determine how you make proteins and collagen, which gives skin its strength, and they’re also why some women age faster than others. Genetics also play a role in whether your skin will tend to freckle, wrinkle, or sag first when aging. Thankfully, however, your daily habits—how you take care of your body and skin—will be the most important factor in how you age.
Genes also determine skin color, which is a huge factor in how you are affected by elements in the environment, such as sunlight. While there are several contributors to premature aging, stress, environmental factors, smoking, and the sun are the biggest. The number one cause of premature aging is the sun’s UVA and UVB rays, which break down our skin. As we age, several things happen to our skin that can make us look older. Our skin gets thinner as it loses fatty tissue. The collagen breaks down, causing our face to sag. We produce less oil in our glands, which causes skin to become drier. We produce less melanin, which causes our skin color to become sallow and lose definition, as well as reduces our natural protection from environmental skin damage. Skin pigmentation or melanin acts as a natural sunscreen. The lighter your skin, the more sensitive you are to sun damage. This does not mean that those with darker skin should not protect themselves. While the higher melanin content of darker skin gives some protection from the sun and protects the epidermis (the top layer), the underlying part of the dermis (inside layers) is still open to damage like lighter skin. The result is the breakdown of collagen, which causes skin to sag. This is why lighter skin tends to wrinkle earlier in the aging process, while darker skin tends to sag. Aging can happen at a rapid pace if you sit back and let it happen—or you can slow down the process by doing something about it.
Our lives are busier than ever, but taking care of your skin doesn’t have to be difficult or complicated. A few minutes and four simple steps: washing, exfoliating, moisturizing, and protecting, will make a world of difference in how your skin ages.
THE DAILY FOUR
I know the last thing you want to do after a hard day is wash your face, but a clean face ensures you don’t feed the bacteria on your skin. Dirty skin creates clogged pores and excess dead skin cells, which ultimately lead to aging skin. The key is to remove all difficult makeup prior to washing your face. This includes dark-colored lipsticks or glosses, as well as smudge-proof eye makeup such as eyeliners and mascaras. Doing this prior to washing will ensure a complete cleanse.
When using a foaming or gel cleanser, gently splash warm water on your face several times to loosen dirt and makeup. Use your fingers to rub in cleanser in a circular, upward motion; don’t forget your jawline and harder-to-reach areas such as the sides of your nose. Avoid washing your face in an up-and-down vertical motion, which can pull on skin. Use warm water to rinse skin and repeat if necessary. In the morning, rinse skin with cool water (not cold water, as this could pop capillaries). Rinsing with cool water reduces swelling that can occur during sleep and wakes up the senses.
A favorite of women in the East and rapidly gaining popularity in the West, cleansing oils can be a great solution for sensitive as well as dry skin. Apply a pump of cleansing oil to your fingers and massage it into your face and neck in circular motions for a minimum of one minute, and rinse clean.
We produce new skin about every twenty-eight days when we are young. As we age, that rate drastically reduces. We need to exfoliate, sloughing off old skin cells, to increase the rate at which new skin is produced. Exfoliating also removes excess dirt and oil, which your cleanser may not have picked up; this gives skin a fresher look, and also helps to shrink pores.
Exfoliate daily in the morning and evening, prior to moisturizing. Most exfoliants can be applied with a cotton pad; however, be certain to avoid the eye area. When using aggressive exfoliants like glycolic acid or Retin-A, use only during evening regimens, as sun exposure to fresh skin can accelerate skin damage. With all exfoliants, it is essential to wear a sunscreen with SPF 30-plus to protect the skin from harmful rays, which can be even more damaging to the newer skin.
FRUIT ENZYME: Derived from fruits such as papaya and pineapple, fruit enzyme exfoliants gently loosen the bonds that hold dead skin cells onto the surface. Great for exfoliating delicate, sensitive skin.
SALICYLIC ACID: A plant-based acid, which helps skin cell turnover. Works best for oily and acne-prone skin.
GLYCOLIC ACID: A sugar-based acid that’s great for unclogging pores and removing dead cells that create dull-looking skin. Start with products containing 5 percent glycolic acid and increase to only those with a content of 10 percent if necessary. Chemical peels contain 20 percent to 70 percent glycolic acid, and should never be done at home.
RETINOL: Nonprescription-strength vitamin A derived from animals.
RETIN-A: A prescription-strength acid derivative of vitamin A. Also known as tretinoin, it is an aggressive exfoliant that can be used daily at home with the supervision of your doctor. Retin-A can cause peeling of the skin, which can make applying foundation difficult. Try cutting down usage to every other day should this occur and tap on foundation to prevent dead skin from rolling off, a sign that you may be applying too often.
Help keep skin moist by applying moisturizing products immediately after toweling off and exfoliating to provide the greatest absorption. Areas that don’t have oil glands, such as the lips, or have minimal oil glands, such as the eye area, need special attention and require moisturizers made specifically for these areas.
Use a moisturizer with SPF in the morning and a treatment one in the evening. This can be a light one for normal to combination skin or a thicker version for dry or mature skin. Apply to the skin in circular motions, taking your time to massage it in. Don’t forget to apply to the neck and chest, too. Look for moisturizers that contain antioxidants (such as vitamins C and E) to protect from free radicals (airborne agents that cause cellular damage).
HYDRATING TONER: While an exfoliant is also called a toner, the use of a hydrating toner is different, and should become part of your normal routine. Hydrating toner is a watery substance that you gently tap onto the face or apply with a cotton pad. It usually contains ingredients such as hyaluronic acid (binds water to cells), and creates a deep glow to the skin from within.
EYE CREAM: The skin around the eyes is incredibly thin—a fraction of the thickness of the rest of your skin. This is why signs of aging show first around the eyes as fine lines or crow’s-feet. It’s essential to treat the area from the brow to the cheekbone delicately. Apply eye cream before makeup, to ensure a smooth application, and again during your evening regimen before sleep, when skin renews itself (something to think about the next time you rub your eyes or decide to skip the eye cream).
SERUMS: Contain concentrated products (usually peptides and antioxidants) that help prevent future aging as well as correct skin damage.
PEPTIDES: Peptides are a chain of amino acids that act as messengers to cells, and tell the skin what to do. Peptides can tell cells to produce more collagen. Look for serums or moisturizers that contain peptides.
ANTIOXIDANTS: Antioxidants like vitamins A, C, and E are essential in destroying free radicals, which can damage skin.
Drink plenty of water to keep the skin’s elasticity at its best.