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Publishers WeeklyStarred Review.
This book from UK restaurateur and television personality Torode is as versatile and unctuous as its namesake, a topic that's been seemingly done to death, but rarely this well. An enthusiastic and encouraging teacher, Torode gives cooks of all skill levels plenty to chew on, with chapters on salads, steaks and large cuts, soups and veal. A handful of basic recipes for carpaccio, steak, corned beef, bresaola and others, once mastered, can be garnished or served multiple ways, instantly broadening home cooks' repertoire. Dishes range from simple (breaded veal scaloppine) and classic (like bolognese) to more challenging fare like home-made pastrami, a five-day event. Ingenious riffs like Ground Beef Wellington and Carpet Bag Steak (a filet mignon stuffed with a plump fresh oyster, wrapped in bacon and grilled) are to-the-point and sure to satisfy. Though based in the UK, Torode has a global palate, evidenced in dishes like Oxtail Ravioli, an easy Thai salad, Russian beef dumplings known as Pelmeni and Aussie meat pies. A book that cooks can grow with (including uses for sweetbreads) Torode's volume is a modern classic on the subject of beef, deserving shelf space in the kitchen of any self-respecting carnivore. 75 color photos.
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