Big City Cooking: Recipes for a Fast-Paced World


"You know why this cookbook is such a kick? Because if you want restaurant food you should eat it in a restaurant. Why put Matthew Kenney out of work? What Kenney thinks makes more sense, however, is to show you how you can cook deliciously and smart for the life you lead, in the city you live in, in that kitchen you hate, with the little time you have, using the best stuff from the market down the block. If you already know all this, we'll all be over tonight at about 7:30."

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"You know why this cookbook is such a kick? Because if you want restaurant food you should eat it in a restaurant. Why put Matthew Kenney out of work? What Kenney thinks makes more sense, however, is to show you how you can cook deliciously and smart for the life you lead, in the city you live in, in that kitchen you hate, with the little time you have, using the best stuff from the market down the block. If you already know all this, we'll all be over tonight at about 7:30."
—Hal Rubenstein,
New York Magazine
Matthew Kenney is a shining star at his big city restaurants. He's also a big city home cook. This fabulous cookbook is as stylish as it is practical, and it's the perfect solution for anyone who's ever tried to rustle up dinner for eight in a small apartment kitchen or attempted to barbecue on a 3-inch balcony. But the best thing about cooking in the big city is that the world's produce markets and delicious gourmet ingredients are right at your doorstep. Using simple, efficient techniques like grilling, searing, roasting, and stewing, these recipes have plenty of downtown clout-without uptown fuss. There's advice on stocking the pantry, buying just the right pans for a limited workspace, and plenty of menus to make entertaining easy. Plus, the eye-catching PVC cover is a cinch to wipe clean. Big City Cooking is sure to keep busy city slickers at home on the range.

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Editorial Reviews

The New York Times
Kenney, who has been the chef-owner of several Manhattan restaurants (Matthew's, Mezze, Monzu, Canteen, Commune), delivers a cookbook for urban dwellers with tiny kitchens, focusing on fresh ingredients and simple preparations. — Dwight Garner
Publishers Weekly
Named one of the "10 Best New Chefs in America" by Food & Wine magazine, Kenney (Matthew Kenney's Mediterranean Cooking) is known for innovative cuisine at his four restaurants-Mezze, Monzu, Canteen and Commune. Bringing the same principles that govern his work in these restaurants to this latest volume, he produces simple yet effective recipes that take the best foods from the growing markets and specialty stores in today's big cities to produce dishes suitable for the home cook. He emphasizes that the "quality of the ingredients is everything in cooking." While starting with a chapter on setting up and stocking the kitchen (which contains a complete ingredient source list), he then divides and categorizes the subsequent dishes by cooking method rather than the customary major ingredients, resulting in such sections as "Simply Raw to Barely Cooked" and "Simmering Stews and Hot Pots." Interspersed with mouth-watering photographs, the dishes are lovingly described and fully explained to help achieve delectable results whether it's the simple yet effective Raw Mushroom Salad with Fennel and Parmesan or the fresh, clean-tasting Halibut Baked in Parchment with Tomatoes, Lime and Cilantro. Many recipes are well within the capabilities of even the most kitchen-phobic cook-Braised and Caramelized Fennel, for example, and the Seared Tuna with Ginger Glaze-allowing them impressive results and encouraging them into further forays into the kitchen. (Apr.)
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Product Details

  • ISBN-13: 9780811832229
  • Publisher: Chronicle Books LLC
  • Publication date: 2/15/2003
  • Pages: 208
  • Product dimensions: 1.00 (w) x 1.00 (h) x 1.00 (d)

Meet the Author

Matthew Kenney, author of Matthew Kenney's Mediterranean Cooking, is the chef-owner of Matthew's Mezze, Monzu, Canteen, and his latest restaurant, Commune, all in New York City.

Joan Schwartz is the author of Macaroni and Cheese and coauthor of several other cookbooks. She lives in New York.

William Meppem's photographs appear regularly in Food & Wine, Martha Stewart Living, and Williams-Sonoma Taste.

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Table of Contents

Preface 10
1 Ingredients: Urban Hunting and Gathering
Big City, Small Kitchen 20
Your Kitchen Tool Chest 22
Your Pantry 24
Sources 25
2 Simply Raw to Barely Cooked
Arugula with Manchego, Roasted Almonds, and Quince Dressing 37
Raw Mushroom Salad with Fennel and Parmesan 38
Carpaccio of Cepes with Wisconsin Asiago and Balsamic Syrup 39
Sashimi of Avocado with Lime and Almond Oil 40
Zucchini Carpaccio with Black Truffle and Olive Oil 41
Tuna Sashimi with Avocado, Lime, and Cilantro 42
Sugar-Cured Salmon with Ricotta Toasts 44
Black Bass Seviche with Mango and Ginger 45
Seviche of Diver Scallops with Chive Dressing 47
Shrimp Seviche with Fennel and Pomegranate 48
Lobster Seviche with Red Chile Dressing 49
Prosciutto and Blue Cheese Panini with White Truffle Honey 50
Charred Beef Carpaccio with Asparagus and Manchego 52
Ripe Persimmons with Mint Syrup 53
Strawberries with Pomegranate Molasses and Fresh Ricotta 54
Pears with Honey, Walnut Toast, and Pecorino 55
Spiced Fruit Soup with Ginger and Toasted Almond Ice Cream 57
Spiced Summer Limeade 58
3 Flashes in the Pan
Portobello Piccata with Almond Bread Crumbs, Rosemary, and Balsamic Vinaigrette 64
Hazelnut-Crusted Foie Gras with Fennel and Pomegranate 67
Pan-Cooked Mussels 68
Sauteed Lobster with Asparagus and Blood Oranges 69
Seared Scallops with Caramelized Cauliflower and Brown Butter Vinaigrette 70
Bacon-Wrapped Shrimp with Avocado, Lime, and Tomato Jam 73
Crab Cakes with Lemony Remoulade 74
Seared Sea Bass with Anise, Pistachios, and Meyer Lemon Puree 75
Seared Tuna with Ginger Dressing 76
Chicken Glazed with Honey, Lime, and Chile 78
Duck Breast with Pomegranate Baste 79
Spicy Soy-Glazed Beef Filet with Shiitakes and Bok Choy 80
Pan-Crisped Goat Cheese with Figs and Arugula 81
Pineapple and Rhubarb with Brown Sugar and Basil 83
Caramelized Mango with Lime and Blueberries 84
Cherries Sauteed in Pinot Noir with Creme Fraiche 85
4 From the Terrace
Lime and Honey Glazed Eggplant with Mint Chutney 90
Charred Vegetables with Orange Blossom Honey and Pecorino 92
Red Chile Barbecued Salmon with Coconut Basmati Rice 93
Grilled Swordfish with Green Olive Tapenade 94
Miso-Grilled Tuna with Savoy Cabbage 95
Moroccan Spiced Shrimp with Artichokes and Pomegranate 96
Brochette of Lamb with Honey-Lime Marinade 98
Rosemary-Grilled Venison with Grilled Peaches 99
Maple-Balsamic Glazed Pork Chops with Pecans and Ginger 101
Grilled Figs with Lemon Ricotta and Rosemary Syrup 102
Bittersweet Chocolate Bruschetta 104
5 Roasting Fast and Slow
Warm Goat Cheese Tarts with Fig Jam and Rosemary 110
Parmigiano-Reggiano Pudding 112
BLT Pizza 113
Wild Mushroom Pizza 114
Truffled Macaroni and Cheese 116
Baked Pasta with Zucchini and Asiago 117
Halibut Baked in Parchment with Tomatoes, Lime, and Cilantro 119
Slow-Roasted Salmon with Yogurt and Cardamom 120
Salt-Baked Salmon 121
Cheddar Meatloaf 122
Roast Chicken with Lemon, Sage, and Pine Nuts 123
Roasted Lamb Loin Stuffed with Almonds, Dates, Goat Cheese, and Mint 124
Coriander-Crusted Pork Loin Stuffed with Dried Peaches and Pine Nuts 126
Chocolate Ganache Cake with Whipped Cream 128
Banana Cake 130
Amaretto Milk-Soaked Cake 131
6 Simmering Stews and Hot Pots
Cauliflower Soup with Green Apple and Fromage Blanc 139
Sweet Pea Soup with Basil and Almond Pesto 140
Braised and Caramelized Fennel 141
Wild Mushrooms with Truffle Butter and Farro 143
Five-Spice Squash Puree 144
Risotto with Chanterelles and Pine Nuts 145
Lobster and Corn Risotto with Basil-Cilantro Oil 147
Coconut Risotto Cakes 149
Creamy Tagliatelle with Roasted Radicchio and Shaved Asiago 150
Farro Pasta with Chicken, Tomato, Basil, and Pistachios 151
Orecchiette with Fresh Peas and Goat Cheese 152
Polenta with Goat Cheese and Rosemary 153
Spaghettini with Veal Meatballs and Chunky Tomato Sauce 154
Tagine of Red Snapper 156
Osso Buco with Dried Orange, Thyme, and White Beans 158
Lamb Stew with Pomegranate and Saffron Fregula 160
Couscous with Toasted Almonds and Cumin 162
Warm Arborio Rice Pudding with Vanilla and Coconut 163
Spiced Minty Tapioca 164
Bittersweet Chocolate and Cherry Pudding 165
Gianduja Pudding 166
7 Menus 168
Saturday Lunch at Home
Dazzling Dinner Party
Comfort Food
Turn Up the Thermostat
Bring the Kids
Totally Vegetarian
Autumn Dinner
A Mediterranean Meal
Christmas/Holiday Feast
Afternoon at the Beach House
Stop By After Work
Index 170
Table of Equivalents 176
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