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Bruce Mason Solo

The End of the Golden Weather to Russia, with Love Not Christmas, but Guy Fawkes Courting Blackbird

Victoria University Press

THE END OF THE GOLDEN WEATHER

I invite you to join me in a voyage into the past, to that territory of the heart we call childhood. Consider, if you will, Te Parenga. A beach, three-quarters of a mile long, a hundred yards wide at low water. Rocks at either end: on the east, chunky and rounded, a squat promontory. The 'king' and 'queen' stand a few yards out from the shore: two squashed rock pillars with steps cut into their sides for diving in the summer. At high water, the sea will cover more than half of them. The rocks on the west are shallow, spreading into a terraced reef, shelving far out to sea. Here there is no smoothness. The surface of these rock shelves is jagged, cutting and tearing at the bare foot, fretted away by the corrosive sea. The receding tide leaves deep pools here where sea anemones with fronts of red and black jelly wave coloured strings to entice the shrimps, and sometimes a lone starfish lies marooned, diminishing in the sun. Ahead, across a narrow channel, central to vision and imagination, Rangitoto, enormous, majestic, spread-eagled on the skyline like a sleeping whale, declining from a central cone to the water in two huge flanges, meeting the sea in a haze of blue and green. It guards Te Parenga from wind and tempest: it has a brooding splendour.

The beach is fringed with pohutukawa trees, single and stunted in the gardens, spreading and noble on the cliffs, and in the empty spaces by the foreshore. Tiny red coronets prick through the grey-green leaves. Bark, flower and leaf seem overlaid by smoke. The red is of a dying fire at dusk, the green faded and drab. Pain and age are in these gnarled forms, in bare roots, clutching at the earth, knotting on the cliff-face, in tortured branches, dark against the washed sky.

Besides this majesty, the houses of Te Parenga have a skimped look. A low ridge curls upwards from the beach, flattening to accept the concrete ribbon of the main road north, an intermittent rash of shops on its margins, then the ridge rolls on and down to the mud-flats and mangroves of the upper harbour. The houses of Te Parenga face the sea, unlovely bungalows of wood and tin, painted red and brown to thwart the rodent air. At the end of the beach, before the main road north leaves it for ever a clot of buildings: shops, banks, the Council Chambers, the Anglican Church in wooden Gothic, cheek by jowl with the cinema – built to last – in brick.

It's only a hundred years since men dressed as chimneys, in top hats and black stove-pipes, women dressed as great bells, tiny feet as clappers, stepped ashore at Te Parenga from a broad-bellied, wind-billowed ship. They brought with them grain and root, tilling and harvest; timber trees, fruit trees, flowers, shrubs, grass; sheep, cows, horses, deer, pigs, rabbits, fish, bees; language, law, custom, clocks and coinage; Queen Victoria and her views on Heaven and Earth; The Trinity; Santa Claus and the imagery of snow where no snow will ever fall at Christmas; a thousand years of history, a shoal of shibboleths, taboos and prohibitions and the memory of a six-months' voyage. They threw them all together in a heap and stepped ashore to slash the bush, banish the natives and pray silently far into the night. They left some of the pohutukawas, and Rangitoto was beyond their reach.

This is Te Parenga: my heritage, my world.

Sunday at Te Parenga

Sunday is the best day at Te Parenga. I am always up early on Sundays, run down the path that snakes round the karaka tree and the flax bushes, jump down the steps on to the beach. The sand is a cold grey powder, slow-seeping between the toes. At this hour before the sun is up, the beach is bathed in a cold glow, lucid, but dead. This early Sunday half-world is the territory of the 'characters', who come from hiding to spread their strangeness like plumage on the hospitable, silver air. There, kicking a stone before him, is the Reverend Thirle, mumbling his sermon. Mumbling, he kicks the flat pebble before him, stalking it intently, as if it were a tiring mouse. His aim is often wild and the stone shoots into the sea, lapped around by a lacy spume; he dances on the edge like a heron, clerical-black arms flapping, so I rush down and pick it out, wipe it on my pants, and hand it back to him.

'Ah. Thank you, my boy,' he says in his northern voice. 'Lose that and I'm sunk.'

'Are you? Why?'

He looks at it reflectively, affectionately.

'It's a talisman. Had it for years. Helps me to think! Kick this along. I'm all right. My thoughts flow.'

He gives me a bland, quizzical look.

'I call it Peter. Do you know why?'

Peter? I shake my head.

He swells and strikes a pose, his fist upraised.

'Because the Church is built on a rock called Peter!'

'Oh,' I say doubtfully, 'is it?'

'Here. That's a joke. You're meant to laugh.'

I titter, dutifully, feebly.

'Well, thank you for the applause! Here, I must be off. Know your catechism?'

A swirl of archaic English floods into my head.

'Nearly,' I tell him, bravely.

'Good lad. See you later, won't I?'

He won't, but I don't tell him this. He throws the stone called Peter before him and hops off after it, roaring at the assembled elements of earth, air, and water: 'I tell ye, ye're like lost sheep!' The voice fades, and he is gone.

Over there, by our steps, Miss Effie Brett has waddled on to the beach. She is supposed to weigh more than twenty stone. Barefooted, huge and rock-faced, dressed in a long calico shift untethered at the waist, she looks as if she is about to be baptised in some outlandish cult. Her hair hangs long and straight over her shoulders, and her eyes have a stony calm. She walks to the water's edge, letting the sea-froth play over her feet, raises her arms above her head and locks her hands. One leg, as solid and shapeless as a jetty pile, slowly rises, as if she were a gigantic ballerina, limbering up. Then she sees me and runs towards me on her toes, suddenly curiously dainty and finicky, stops and stares at me.

'Nice day,' she shouts in my face.

'Yes, Miss Effie,' I say nervously, not daring to look at her.

'How's your mother?' she roars, peering at me though the loose hanks of hair.

'She's very well, thank you, Miss Effie.'

I know what's coming.

'Drunk again?' she screams, with a leer of satisfaction. Yes, that was it: always the same.

'I don't know what you mean, Miss Effie.'

'Ask Sybil: she knows! Ask Sybil!'

Miss Effie and her sister Miss Sybil Brett, live in Massey Street just behind us. One day, when my mother was going to the shops, Miss Effie leaned out of the window and screamed: 'She drinks, that woman: she drinks!' Then Miss Sybil appeared briefly, wrenched Miss Effie away, the sound of a sharp slap and fierce yelling. My mother was shocked and upset, but it never happened again; Miss Sybil, a fiercely withdrawn, gaunt little woman, watched over her sister like a gaoler. But once a week, early on Sunday mornings, she was set at liberty and roamed huge and untamed on the beach until a long blast on a whistle called her home. It came now, shrill and piercing.

The great body shivers; the head rears up like some alarmed and cornered animal.

'Goodbye, goodbye!' she shouts and gallops off like a fastidious buffalo, whacking her flank as if she were her own jockey. I shiver. Miss Effie belongs to a different and terrifying race.

Along by the rocks on the east end, a figure crouches in the smooth wet sand digging for pipis. This is Firpo, the butt of the beach, thin as a spoon, with unshaven flaccid cheeks and bulging fear-strewn eyes, dressed in dirty jeans and the top half of a tattered woollen bathing suit, button gone on the shoulder so that one strap hangs loose, exposing the bony rib-cage. I go up to him. He sees my legs, looks up, his face all feverish animation.

'Gidday, boy! Early birds, aren't we? How's tricks?'

'All right, Firpo.'

'Want to help get Firpo's breakfast?'

He always talks like this, as if he were someone else.

I kneel down beside him. The pipis hide in the shining wet strip where the sea runs up and back; little bubbles escape from their lairs, flawing and pocking the sand. We scoop out the handfuls of sodden grit and there, dully gleaming, are the pipis, tiny yellow tongues slowly retracting, as if their alarm at approaching dissolution were slight. Firpo's flax basket is almost full.

'How's the training, Firpo?' I ask him, at length.

Firpo starts, his eyes blink, jumps up and beats his chest.

'Fit! Fit! Fit as a fighting tomcat, Firpo is!'

He begins a strenuous full-knees bend, arms outstretched, palms up, tottering and precarious, shouting at me to admire his skill. Suddenly, he pauses, arrested in mid-bend, stands up, rigid, and I follow his gaze. Bouncing towards us over the sand is Jesse Cabot, heavyweight wrestling champion of the British Empire, a Canadian who has come for the season to Te Parenga. He stumps along, a huge chubby baby in white shorts; a gaudy bath-robe flares out behind him, sustained in the light, morning breeze. In each great hand he holds a rock, bearing them before him like offerings to the gods, their weight bulging and distending his huge biceps; ropes of knotted veins course down his neck like swollen underground streams. He looks straight ahead, olympian and majestic, his heels deeply indenting the sand in a widely spaced double track. Firpo looks suddenly strained and old, and his bulging eyes water.

'Gotta get along, eh,' he mutters enigmatically and walks off, hunched and tormented.

The sun comes up over the cliff, a bland unwinking disc – heralding a bright, explicit world. The characters have melted away, as though the full light were not their element. The beach is deserted. My brother calls me from the steps. Breakfast.

By ten o'clock, the people of Te Parenga are abroad, liberated for a day from their caged bondage in buildings or at sinks. The beach is spattered with their clots of colour and spurting with their talk. The sea rolls on and up the sand, frothing near the grey powder by the gates and Te Parenga settles into its Sunday ravishment by sun and sea.

Promptly at eleven, Sergeant Robinson appears on the beach. He has been Te Parenga's sergeant of police for over thirty years. Small, fierce-eyed, round and gnarled as a nut, he strides along with a nuggety grandeur, clean white Sunday shirt blazing, no tie, helmet set just a trifle askew to show that he is not on duty, striped braces straining like hawsers over his shoulders, bowing, saluting, regally acknowledging salvoes of greetings from all over the beach.

A new fashion has recently reached Te Parenga. For the first time, men have begun to appear on the beach in shorts and are no longer encased from neck to upper thigh. This offends Robbie's deeply Victorian sense of propriety. Again and again I recall scenes like this:

'Aw, gidday, Bill. Aw, not so bad. Heat gets yer. Gets all mucky, under me helmet. ... What's that? Gubberment? Well, whaddya expect with them jokers down in Wellington. ... Hey! Hey, you! And where do you think you're going. What? For a walk? Like that? All uncovered on ya top? Ya not decent! Cover yaself up, quick and lively. All a yas! Cover yaselves up!'

He lumbers off, muttering: 'Think this is a nudiest colony, a somethin....'

And the men comply with towels until he has moved on, when bare flesh again emerges to barks of laughter, but not so that Robbie can hear, for he is greatly admired and respected on the beach.

'Ya gotta hand it to him, though,' is the universal tribute, 'proper ole dag....'

The golden day seeps on; no thoughts but warm, no talk but trivial, until the sun fingers the eyeballs dead ahead – the sand cools, and the beach slowly empties.

On Sunday nights in the summer, we have tea on the glassed-in verandah facing Rangitoto. My mother prepares a mountain of sandwiches and out they come, mounds of them, on a jingling trolley. There we sit in the summer, while the day ends in gold explosions on the horizon and the lower borders of the sky are suddenly drenched in pink, as though a full brush had been slapped round the rim. Below us on the beach, people are strolling and the thin rarefied tinkle of their voices floats up to us as they approach, then a sudden blare of coherent sound....

'So I said to Phyllis, what's the use? Why don't you finish with him, for good and all....'

Will Phyllis give him up?

Or this, in a high, fluty voice:

'Well, I went to her house and everything on the line was silk and I thought, Mmmm-mm! Mine's cotton....'

Or an urgent foreign voice:

'But Hans, why did you do it? What were you thinking of ...?'

What had the man done, so far from home? ... Huge questions, teasing the mind for ever. Laughter like a rocket burst, hanging on the still air in showers of sparks....

Tonight, we have guests and, as always, we scream for charades as soon as it is dark. The signal given, the evening falls together like old ritual. My brother and I perform a few curtain-raisers like 'hen-peck' and 'hand-cuff', acting out the first syllable, the second and then the whole word. Then we politely ask the guests to perform, some shrinking and terrified, looking for the nearest sofa to hide under; others consent and perform with a touching bravado and sit down, looking sheepish, so we applaud with vigour, saying 'Jolly good!' in a kindly way, so they won't feel too shown up, later. For we are only waiting for the supreme moment when we can ask our father to play. He looks at us over his glasses, thoughtful and mischievous; we rush at him in an agony, each seizing a knee and pulling it outwards with our entreaty, as if to split him. After a moment of torturing indecision he consents and retires; from the kitchen comes the rattle of utensils. We giggle, nudge each other and throw knowing looks at the guests.

In bursts my father, swivelling round corners, Chaplin-wise, bowler-hatted, frock-coated, holding a bulging and jingling carpet-bag. He advances on his victim, the light of self-abandoned frenzy in his eye, speaking in a voice of comic heaviness and briskness:

'Come here, come here, come here! Don't like your colour! Looks like a bad case of hydrangea! Put out your tongue!'

He seizes the organ delicately, shakes his head. His eyes gleam with a terrible zeal.

'Oh ho ho ho! This is serious! Convolvulus has set in. We must operate at once!'

The victim is hustled off his chair, screaming with laughter and thrown flat on a table; tries to rise, but the mad doctor presses his head. The patient crumples. A fearsome jingling from the carpet-bag.

'Now, now, what's best for the incision? Ah ha! The very thing. My tenonsaw. Don't worry, don't worry! It'll only tickle!'

The victim struggles to sit up: the doctor flattens him with an imperious gesture. He saws furiously, making a ghastly, ticking scratching sound. 'Now that didn't hurt, did it? Stop laughing! Pin back the flaps ... that's the way. ... Now we have to dig. Get at the root of the trouble. Where's my garden trowel?'

He drops the saw, seizes the trowel, makes great swooping motions with it.

'Intestines? No use to you. Better without them.' He throws them over his head. In horror, we see long loops and festoons of them sailing round the room, lodging on the clocks, hanging on the pictures, whirling round and round the light bracket.

He digs again, ferociously.

'Heart? Lungs? Kidneys? Liver? Useless lumber. Out they go.'

He throws them at the wall: we hear a hideous squelch. He looks down at his patient, benevolently.

'Why, you're looking better already. Now, we'll sew you up. Here's my skewer. Thread it with a piece of string, and away we go!' He becomes a maddened seamstress, frenziedly sewing, the skewer flying in and out. He dusts his hands, dismisses his patient.

'Go thou, and sin no more.'

He bows to us, cold and dignified.

'Adieu. Adieu! Remember me!'

He grabs his carpet-bag, whirls on one leg, stops suddenly.

'What's this on my lapel? A stray kidney? Tt-tt-tt.'

He flicks it off with a lordly air and whirls off on some other fearsome errand.

Gasping, we scream for more, but there is always only one. In a moment, he returns as himself, looking at us over his glasses with the mildest of airs and we gaze at him with astonishment and awe, that beneath that genial mask there lurks, crouching to spring, that ferocious doctor.

The guests depart and we prepare for bed, the wind faintly rustling the trees outside, platoons of moths hurling themselves at the lighted panes and the moon coyly showing a gleaming finger-nail paring above the dark mass of Rangitoto.

The Night of the Riots

The days of childhood slowly thread through memory like a golden snake, deeply scoring the mind, each day joined to the next by unbreakable filament. So one thinks, until the thread does break and the snake falls to bits, each piece meaningless and without connection. The night of the riots.

The first I knew of it was being woken by my father pounding down the hall, waving the morning paper.

'Look!' he shouted. They've wrecked the city!'

I rushed into the bedroom. 'What's happened?'

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Excerpted from Bruce Mason Solo by Bruce Mason. Copyright © 1981 Bruce Mason. Excerpted by permission of Victoria University Press.
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