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Keen's Farmhouse Cheddar Wincant on, Somerset The Keen family has farmed at Moorhayes, which is both arable and dairy, since 1899. The rather majestic 16th-century gabled farmhouse sits proudly on a hill overlooking the farmland, which in this part of Somerset is low-lying and prone to wet. The unpasteurized cow's milk cheese is made by hand using a traditional rennet, and what differentiates this Cheddar from, say, Montgomery's is its texture. Keen's has a heavier texture, with a spicy, deep, almost tingling sensation on the tongue, a nutty, fruity tang, and a rich, vigorous finish. The method of heating and pressing also differs from that of Jamie Montgomery's, but I think that in this little pocket of Somerset the terroir shows the way. I like Keen's Cheddar for its weighty chewiness, and the fact that it is a great cooking cheese.