This book discusses the technical, artistic and commercial challenges of the perfume industry in an informative and engaging style.
Table of Contents
Acknowledgement; Glossary; Chapter 1: The Human Relationship with Fragrance; Chapter 2: The History of Aroma Chemistry and Perfume; 2.1: Early Use of Fragrance; 2.2: The Age of Chivalry; 2.3: The Age of Alchemy; 2.4: The Age of Discovery; 2.5: The Age of Revolution; 2.6: The Age of Empire (Nineteenth Century); 2.7: The Age of Fashion (Twentieth Century); Chapter 3: Perfumery Materials of Natural Origin; 3.1: Perfumes and Odours in Nature; 3.2: Extraction of Natural Perfume Ingredients; 3.3: Adulteration of Natural Perfume Ingredients; 3.4: From Natural to Synthetic; References; Chapter 4: Ingredients for the Modern Perfumery Industry; 4.1: Economic Factors Affecting Perfume Ingredient Production; 4.2: Perfume Ingredients Derived from Terpenoids; 4.3: Musks; 4.4: Perfume Ingredients Derived from Benzene; 4.5: Perfume Ingredients Derived from Toluene; 4.6: Perfume Ingredients Derived from Phenol; 4.7: Pefrume Ingredients Derived from Naphthalene; 4.8: Perfume Ingredients Derived from Aliphatic Materials; 4.9: Perfume Ingredients Derived from Cyclopentanone; 4.10: Perfume Ingredients Derived from Dicyclopentadiene; 4.11: Conclusions; References; Chapter 5: The Structure of an International Fragrance Company; 5.1: The Business-Getting Chain; 5.2: The Supply Chain; References; Chapter 6: The Perfume Brief; 6.1: Brief for Eve - Prepared by Business Scents Ltd; 6.2: Toxicology; Chapter 7: Perfumer Creation: The Role of the Perfumer; 7.1: Soap; 7.2: Shampoo; 7.3: Shower and Bath Gel; 7.4: Antiperspirant; Reference; Chapter 8: Measurement of Fragrance Perception; 8.1: Introduction; 8.2: Market Research; 8.3: Sensory Analysis; 8.4: Multisensory Approach; 8.5: Psychology of Perfume; 8.6: The Business Scents Brief; 8.7: Analysis of Ingredients to Convey the Appropriate Odour Characteristics; 8.8: Creating Fragrances for the Future; References; Chapter 9: The Application of Fragrance; 9.1: The Role of the Applications Department; 9.2: Product Formulations; 9.3: Stability Testing; References; Chapter 10: The Safety and Toxicology of Fragrances; 10.1: Introduction; 10.2: Self Regulation; 10.3: Safety Assessment; 10.4: Skin Irritation; 10.5: Skin Sensitisation; 10.6: Photoeffects; 10.7: Neurotoxicity; 10.8: Reproductive Effects; 10.9: Natural Ingredients; 10.10: Conclusions; References; Chapter 11: Volatility and Substantivity; 11.1: Perfume Creation and Physical Chemistry; 11.2: Perfume Ingredient Volatility; 11.3: Perfume Polarity; 11.4: Substantivity and Retention; 11.5: Conclusions; References; Chapter 12: Natural Product Analysis in the Fragrance Industry; 12.1: Introduction; 12.2: Natural Product Analysis; 12.3: Analytical Techniques used in the Fragrance Industry;12.4: Positive Identification; 12.5: Headspace Collection; 12.6: The Future; References; Chapter 13: Chemoreception; 13.1: Why have a Sense of Smell?; 13.2: Measuring Smell; 13.3: Cell Wall Structure; 13.4: Proteins Involved in Signal Generation; 13.5: Anatomy of Smell; 13.6: Signal Generation; 13.7: The Combinatorial Nature of Odour Perception; 13.8: Signal Processing; 13.9: Implications for Odorant Design; References; Chapter 14: The Search for New Ingredients; 14.1: Introduction; 14.2: The Need; 14.3: The Search; 14.4: Computer-Aided Design Approach; 14.5: Summary; Acknowledgements; References; Chapter 15: Buying Fragrance Ingredients and Selling Fragrance Compounds; 15.1: Buying; 15.2: Sales and Marketing; Chapter 16: The Finale: Brief Submission; Appendix I: Some of the more Important Natural Fragrance Materials; Appendix II: Useful Addresses; Bibliography; Subject Index
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