The Chemistry of Fragrances: From Perfumer to Consumer / Edition 2by Charles S Sell
Pub. Date: 11/06/2006
Publisher: Royal Society of Chemistry, The
Ever wondered how perfumes are developed? Or why different scents appeal to different people? The Chemistry of Fragrances 2nd Edition offers answers to these questions, providing a fascinating insight into the perfume industry, from the conception of an idea to the finished product. It discusses the technical, artistic and commercial challenges of the perfume
Ever wondered how perfumes are developed? Or why different scents appeal to different people? The Chemistry of Fragrances 2nd Edition offers answers to these questions, providing a fascinating insight into the perfume industry, from the conception of an idea to the finished product. It discusses the technical, artistic and commercial challenges of the perfume industry in an informative and engaging style, with contributions from leading experts in the field.
The book begins with a historical introduction and covers all aspects of the development process - from customer brief to producing a fragrance including: Ingredients acquisition; Ingredient design and manufacture; Design and analysis of fragrance; Sensory aspects including odour perception; Psychological impact of fragrance; Technical challenges; Safety. An updated section on the measurement of fragrance discusses the role of senses in marketing consumer products.
This book will appeal to anyone with an interest in the perfumery business and includes an extensive bibliography to enable those interested to explore the field further. It also comes complete with a selection of colour illustrations and a fragranced page.
Table of Contents
Acknowledgement; Glossary; Chapter 1: The Human Relationship with Fragrance; Chapter 2: The History of Aroma Chemistry and Perfume; 2.1: Early Use of Fragrance; 2.2: The Age of Chivalry; 2.3: The Age of Alchemy; 2.4: The Age of Discovery; 2.5: The Age of Revolution; 2.6: The Age of Empire (Nineteenth Century); 2.7: The Age of Fashion (Twentieth Century); Chapter 3: Perfumery Materials of Natural Origin; 3.1: Perfumes and Odours in Nature; 3.2: Extraction of Natural Perfume Ingredients; 3.3: Adulteration of Natural Perfume Ingredients; 3.4: From Natural to Synthetic; References; Chapter 4: Ingredients for the Modern Perfumery Industry; 4.1: Economic Factors Affecting Perfume Ingredient Production; 4.2: Perfume Ingredients Derived from Terpenoids; 4.3: Musks; 4.4: Perfume Ingredients Derived from Benzene; 4.5: Perfume Ingredients Derived from Toluene; 4.6: Perfume Ingredients Derived from Phenol; 4.7: Pefrume Ingredients Derived from Naphthalene; 4.8: Perfume Ingredients Derived from Aliphatic Materials; 4.9: Perfume Ingredients Derived from Cyclopentanone; 4.10: Perfume Ingredients Derived from Dicyclopentadiene; 4.11: Conclusions; References; Chapter 5: The Structure of an International Fragrance Company; 5.1: The Business-Getting Chain; 5.2: The Supply Chain; References; Chapter 6: The Perfume Brief; 6.1: Brief for Eve - Prepared by Business Scents Ltd; 6.2: Toxicology; Chapter 7: Perfumer Creation: The Role of the Perfumer; 7.1: Soap; 7.2: Shampoo; 7.3: Shower and Bath Gel; 7.4: Antiperspirant; Reference; Chapter 8: Measurement of Fragrance Perception; 8.1: Introduction; 8.2: Market Research; 8.3: Sensory Analysis; 8.4: Multisensory Approach; 8.5: Psychology of Perfume; 8.6: The Business Scents Brief; 8.7: Analysis of Ingredients to Convey the Appropriate Odour Characteristics; 8.8: Creating Fragrances for the Future; References; Chapter 9: The Application of Fragrance; 9.1: The Role of the Applications Department; 9.2: Product Formulations; 9.3: Stability Testing; References; Chapter 10: The Safety and Toxicology of Fragrances; 10.1: Introduction; 10.2: Self Regulation; 10.3: Safety Assessment; 10.4: Skin Irritation; 10.5: Skin Sensitisation; 10.6: Photoeffects; 10.7: Neurotoxicity; 10.8: Reproductive Effects; 10.9: Natural Ingredients; 10.10: Conclusions; References; Chapter 11: Volatility and Substantivity; 11.1: Perfume Creation and Physical Chemistry; 11.2: Perfume Ingredient Volatility; 11.3: Perfume Polarity; 11.4: Substantivity and Retention; 11.5: Conclusions; References; Chapter 12: Natural Product Analysis in the Fragrance Industry; 12.1: Introduction; 12.2: Natural Product Analysis; 12.3: Analytical Techniques used in the Fragrance Industry;12.4: Positive Identification; 12.5: Headspace Collection; 12.6: The Future; References; Chapter 13: Chemoreception; 13.1: Why have a Sense of Smell?; 13.2: Measuring Smell; 13.3: Cell Wall Structure; 13.4: Proteins Involved in Signal Generation; 13.5: Anatomy of Smell; 13.6: Signal Generation; 13.7: The Combinatorial Nature of Odour Perception; 13.8: Signal Processing; 13.9: Implications for Odorant Design; References; Chapter 14: The Search for New Ingredients; 14.1: Introduction; 14.2: The Need; 14.3: The Search; 14.4: Computer-Aided Design Approach; 14.5: Summary; Acknowledgements; References; Chapter 15: Buying Fragrance Ingredients and Selling Fragrance Compounds; 15.1: Buying; 15.2: Sales and Marketing; Chapter 16: The Finale: Brief Submission; Appendix I: Some of the more Important Natural Fragrance Materials; Appendix II: Useful Addresses; Bibliography; Subject Index
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