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Click Your Way to Rally Obedience

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Overview

The revised edition of the original book, this includes new signs and text for teaching your dog to compete in Rally Obedience. Rally Obedience is all about having fun and interacting with your dog. Whether or not you choose to train with a clicker, this book will set you on the path to success in AKC or APDT Rally competition from novice to championship level. Teaching Rally will make training more fun and interesting, and make your dog more responsive and cooperative in ...

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Overview

The revised edition of the original book, this includes new signs and text for teaching your dog to compete in Rally Obedience. Rally Obedience is all about having fun and interacting with your dog. Whether or not you choose to train with a clicker, this book will set you on the path to success in AKC or APDT Rally competition from novice to championship level. Teaching Rally will make training more fun and interesting, and make your dog more responsive and cooperative in everyday life.

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Product Details

  • ISBN-13: 9781577791089
  • Publisher: Alpine Publications, Incorporated
  • Publication date: 9/28/2010
  • Edition number: 2
  • Pages: 177
  • Sales rank: 852,558
  • Product dimensions: 6.00 (w) x 8.90 (h) x 0.50 (d)

Meet the Author

Pamela Dennison is the owner of Positive Motivation Dog Training and the author of numerous books and videos, including the bestselling Complete Idiot's Guide to Positive Dog Training. She teaches all levels of dog obedience plus behavior modification and seminars for aggressive and reactive dogs. She is a member of APDT, NADOI, and IAABC. Pam has been competing since 1996 and has titled dogs in Obedience, Rally and Agility.

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Read an Excerpt

RALLY RUDIMENTS
Before you can start training for Rally, you will need to train a few base behaviors, including, in particular, rapt attention from your dog. Attention is the cornerstone of Rally. I am not talking about forced attention from your dog, but a willing focus amidst a myriad of distractions. Skip the basics and you will not be successful in the exercises outlined in this book. Take the time now, and the benefits will be enormous in both Rally and real life.

CLICKER TRAINING IN A NUTSHELL
The clicker is an extremely powerful tool. You might wonder how this little plastic noisemaker can have such a profound effect on your dog's behavior. How is it that the once impenetrable communication barrier between human and canine can be overcome with such a seemingly simplistic method?

Assuming that your dog has never heard its sound before, the clicker can be considered a neutral stimulus; that is, in the beginning, the noise itself has no meaning, conveys no message and conjures no emotions or feelings. It means absolutely nothing. Your dog is then conditioned (taught) that something wonderful (to him) will always follow the sound of the click. The clicker also communicates to your dog exactly which specific behavior is "right"—it is very clear to your dog what behavior you are marking. Another important point is that the clicker sounds the same each and every time you use it.

You may certainly use a verbal marker such as "good" or "yes"; however, because your dog is exposed to the sound of "humanspeak" throughout his dayto-day life with you, your language becomes, to a certain degree, white noise. If you are like many dog owners, you talk to your spouse and children, conduct marathon phone conversations, sing in the shower and perhaps talk to yourself.

Maybe you even talk in your sleep! Add into the mix the TV and radio you leave on to soothe your companion when you are gone. Additionally, none of this banter is executed in monotones. Your language likely is peppered with inflections,emotions, modulating tones and volume changes.

Remember that your dog does not speak English, so it will be harder for him to discriminate between your talking to and around him all day long and your verbal marker. Think of how many variations of "good" or "yes" you can come up with—soft, loud, happy, angry—the possibilities are endless. Conversely, that little clicker always remains exactly the same. If utilized properly, once your dog knows what the sound means, there will be no doubt in his mind what you are telling him.

Now, before you panic and think that once you start using the clicker, you will be forever conjoined with that piece of plastic or that you won't be able to compete (since clickers are not allowed in Rally) because your dog can't perform without it—it absolutely isn't true. The clicker is used only in the beginning stages of training each exercise to impart valuable information from you to your dog.

For instance, sit is a very easy behavior for most dogs. Usually within two to three days, you will be able to say "sit" and your dog will sit. You can then wean your dog off the clicker as a marker for that behavior; he will still sit when you ask him to and won't expect a treat for each and every sit.

If you click, you must reinforce in some way—be it with food, toys, petting, praise or play. If a reward does not follow, the click loses meaning for your dog.To wean a dog off the clicker once a behavior is learned, you simply ask for the behavior and not click when you get it—perhaps as a transition you praise him instead, or maybe you simply go on to the next behavior. Alternatively, when you are training heel, for example, you can click and treat every step to start, then every second step, every third, fifth, eighth, etc., until you are doing an entire course without using a clicker. For more information on positive and clicker training, see Appendix 3.

HOW TO BEGIN
To start, you will need to make the clicker valuable and meaningful to your dog. To do this, have your dog in front of you, and armed with a handful of food, you click and treat, click and treat, click and treat. Keep up a nice steady pace, and continue for as many times as you can in three minutes. It doesn't matter what your dog is doing (as long as he isn't jumping or barking); just click and treat. Be sure that the food follows within one-half second after the click. That is the optimum time for your dog to make the association that the click sound is valuable. Any longer time span between the click noise and the treat will result in your dog not making the correct association.

Most of the time, you will only have to do this step once and your dog will make the connection. If for some reason your dog doesn't understand that when he hears the click he gets a treat, simply repeat the exercise for a few more sessions of a few minutes each.

You may have noticed that I am not asking you to use a "watch me" cue for eye contact. If you teach this behavior correctly, you won't need the cue at all. I don't teach my own dogs that cue because they automatically watch me. I use eye contact as the requirement for almost everything: If they want the ball, they have to look at me before I'll throw it. If they want to go swimming, they have to look at me before I'll release them. If you use a "watch me" cue, your dog will only look at you because you are asking him to. Train it the way outlined here and your dog will look at you all of the time.

ATTENTION: PART ONE
Once your three minutes (or so) of the previous exercise are up, you will click for attentive behavior. Have your clicker in one hand and food in the other. Put your arms down by your side. (Do not have them at your waist—this will be important later on.) Wait. Don't say anything. Once the dog looks at your face (the behavior you want), click and treat. Put your arms down by your side again. Wait for eye contact and then click and treat. Repeat this for about five minutes. At this beginning stage, it doesn't matter exactly where your dog is—he can be sitting, lying down or standing. Repeat this a few times per day, a few minutes at a time. You will soon see your dog staring at you incessantly throughout the day. This is a good thing! We want him to be drilling holes in your head with his eyes.

ATTENTION: PART TWO
The second step is to make sure that your dog knows his name and will respond instantly when he hears it. When he looks at you (not before he looks at you), you say his name and then click and treat. If you say his name before he is looking at you, you are nagging (and we all know how much we like people who nag us!). If you wait until he looks at you, you are teaching. Repeat this a few minutes per session, a few short sessions per day. At this stage of the game, it doesn't matter where he is, as long as he is close to you.

ATTENTION: PART THREE
The next step is the starting point for teaching your dog what "come" means. When he looks at you (just as in the previous exercise), say his name, say your "come" word, and then click and treat. You are not asking him to move at this point. You just want him to listen to the words. Repeat this for a few minutes per session, a few short sessions per day.

ON THE ROAD
Now take what you have learned so far—eye contact, eye contact/name, eye contact/name/come—and go on the road. Get out of the living room and your front yard (because there will be no Rally trials held there) and practice these simple behaviors in every location you can think of: parking lots, fields, schoolyards, parks, pet stores, downtown. Be creative. If your dog is too distracted at first, go to less busy places to start, gradually adding in more and more distracting places.After about two weeks of steady training (five minutes per session, three times per day), you should have incredible focus from your dog. You will then be able to start teaching him other behaviors.

Teaching the recall this way is actually called back chaining. Question: What is the last piece of a recall? Answer: The dog right in front of you. If you train this part first you are making the entire behavior stronger and more reliable.

GET THE BEHAVIOR, THEN NAME IT
When training all of the new behaviors listed in this book, be sure to pair the word with the behavior for fastest learning. This principle will apply for every behavior you will teach your dog, even if it isn't for competing. There is a real reason for the sequence of "get the behavior, then name it." While a dog can learn some verbal cues, spoken language is not his forte. He is more cognizant of body postures than verbal language. The dog will learn a new behavior more easily if he doesn't have to filter through extra verbiage.

To make these new behaviors easier for your dog to understand, you will split them into tiny pieces (approximations). Teaching the behavior first and only then naming it enhances learning and recognition of the word and its corresponding behavior. In the beginning of each new step, you must avoid naming a less than perfect response; otherwise, that is what you will get—a less than perfect response whenever you say that word! You want your dog to learn that the verbal cue means the finished product, not a small portion of it.

A classic example of pairing a word with the wrong behavior is this: Your dog is jumping on you as you say "off!" Do this enough, and every time you say "off " he will jump. Why? Because that is the word you have paired with jumping! If you say "off " as he is getting off, you are doing it correctly.

THE SIT
In Rally you need the dog to sit directly in front of you as well as on your left side in heel position. Let's start with the front sit. There is no need to yank up on the dog's neck while you push down on the hind end.Instead, have a treat in your right or left hand and, palm up, hold the treat over the dog's head, luring him so his head is up. Using canine physics (head goes up, hind end goes down), your dog will sit. Say "sit" when his hind end hits the ground, and then click and treat. Be sure not to say "sit" until he sits—otherwise you are giving the word "sit" to the behavior of standing.After about three to four days, you should be able to say your cue word "sit" before the behavior and your dog should sit. If he looks at you blankly, give him a helper hand signal. Know that your dog isn't stupid. Just remember that he is more focused on your body than your words.

Practice this with the dog in front of you in proper front position. Do not lure him with your hands into position—for now, you go to proper front position.

Let's teach him what the "right" picture looks like for now—you standing straight, the dog directly in front of you, looking adoringly into each other's eyes, with your hands down at your sides. Practice "front" for a few minutes per day during your training. Your dog will now need to learn that the heel position is as valuable as the front position. Start with your dog in front of you. You go to heel position. Stand up straight, head pointed forward, chin slightly down (so you can look at your dog), left arm at your waist.

Click and treat him just for looking at the "right" picture. Repeat this again and again, one right after the other. Your dog may try to get into front position (because he has been so heavily reinforced for this in the past). Don't get angry with him—just have him sit, you move back to heel position and try again. I like to start this training off with rapid clicks and treats because of this potential problem. Usually after a few minutes the dog will stop moving to the front as he starts learning that heel position also pays off. Make sure you are clicking and treating him for looking up at your face. For a few minutes per day, rotate practicing heel position with front position. Be sure that your posture is correct. Practice in front of a mirror if you need to. It is important that your position be accurate because we are trying to teach the dog what the perfect picture looks like. It is harder to fix this later on than to get it correct from the beginning.

THE DOWN
Have the dog in a sit and bring your hand (slowly) straight down to the ground. When the dog lies down (not before), say "down" and then click and treat. Put the treat on the ground so you can then stand up straight without the dog popping up again. This may happen anyway—not to worry—just give the dog a few treats to keep him busy while you stand up. Once he is done eating the treats, release him with a verbal "okay" or "free." We want him to get up on your cue, so be sure to release him before he thinks of it himself. Repeat this bunches of times.

A side note about luring and props: Luring is okay —to a point. I use luring in this book only when the lure becomes the actual hand signal. If you use luring or props too long and don't fade them as soon as you start to use them, you are doomed. I once saw a woman at a competition obedience trial practicing outside the ring. She was using lures to get her dog to come and sit front. Once in the ring, she was not allowed to use those lures and the dog had no clue what she wanted him to do. She then became very frustrated and angry at her dog. Silly! Some people may think that this posture looks too militaristic—it may indeed. However, if you have a tallish dog and you heel with your arms down, you are going to whack him in the face, and I don't think he will appreciate it. If you have a short dog, your swinging arm may block his view of your face and he may go wide or forge in an attempt to see your face.

You will also need to fade your hand signal, which sometimes takes longer than fading the hand signal for the sit. Most of us start out luring the down by bending all the way down to the ground. Once the dog is going down quickly, you will gradually bend over less and less, still not saying "down" until your dog lies down.

Once you can stand up straight and give a small hand signal, you should be able to start saying the word "down" before the behavior. If your dog doesn't respond, use a helper hand signal cue and just try again. Be sure to practice this with your dog in front of you and also at your side in heel position.

COME

You have already started to teach your dog (by pairing the word with the click and treat) that the word "come" is valuable. Now we need to get him moving. Not only is "come" important for Rally, but it is imperative in real life as well. Pick a come word that you will remember and use consistently. Stay away from changing your come word repeatedly—it will only confuse your dog.

Be careful that you don't dilute your come word by using it for anything other than a recall. Come" should not be used for heeling! In the beginning stages of the recall, do not say the word unless your dog is already on his way to you. You must pair the word with the behavior for the dog to learn exactly what "come" means.

Luring into the down.

• Say "come" only when you are prepared to reinforce heavily—for at least twenty seconds! If you don't have any reinforcers on you, you can run to them, all the while keeping your dog's attention on you.
• Make sure your dog comes within a few inches—do not reach out to feed him.
• Make sure that when you say "come" you say it only once. You want your dog to come to you the first time you say it, not the twentieth time.If you have poisoned your recall word and taught your dog to run away or ignore you completely when you say it, then by all means change to a new word. "Here" works well, and I have also heard people use the word "front." Be creative, but be sure to pick a word that you and the rest of your family will remember and be consistent about using correctly this time.

RECALL GAMES
The following games are not just for Rally—they may eventually save your dog's life one day. All of these games are also great for teaching your dog to be very focused on you and will help immensely when you start to teach the heel.

HEAT-SEEKING MISSILE
Get one of your friends to hold your dog while you run away and hide. The second you say his name ("Cody, come") your friend should drop the leash. If you are training by yourself, just run and hide while he isn't looking at you. Once you are hidden, call your dog. When he finds you, have a huge party with all sorts of reinforcers, such as food, petting and playing with toys—make it a big deal when he finds you.

TAG, YOU'RE IT!
Run around like a bunny, feinting right and left. Your dog will most likely chase you. Reinforce him for following you. Repeat this game often, always making sure you reward him for staying with you.

NATURE WALK
Bring some toys and treats and a long leash to a nice, wide-open area and just start walking. Most likely, your dog will go on ahead. No problem. Just say his name before he hits the end of the leash. As he is coming back to you, say your come word, click and heavily reinforce him when he responds. Be sure once in a while to play the "tag, you're it" game. If you find a tree or bush, you can also hide and play the "heat-seeking missile" game. If your dog hits the end of the leash, just stand still and wait for him to notice that you are still there. If your dog doesn't come when you call, don't call him again. Be patient and wait. You can even sit down on the ground to entice him without actually saying anything. However long it takes, you still reinforce him for coming to you. Be careful not to talk to him when he isn't doing what you want—otherwise you are actually reinforcing him for ignoring you. When just starting out, it is best to use a harness when playing this game. That way, you avoid the dog developing tracheal, neck or spinal damage if he hits the end of the leash at full force. My favorite harnesses are listed in Appendix 3.

THE FRONT GAME
In order to practice recalls for the real world and also a nice straight front for Rally, you must start by getting your dog to go away from you so you can call him back.

The Recall
1. Toss a cookie about two or three feet away.
2. Let your dog know he can have it by saying "get it."
3. Run away fast!
4. Your dog will chase you. As he is on his way, say "come." (Be sure not to say "come" as he is eating the cookie, at least in the beginning stages of this game.)
5.When he gets to you, click and treat with a bunch of cookies fed one at a time. Be unpredictable in the number of cookies you dole out. In addition,make sure you don't always use food as the only reinforcer. Otherwise it becomes b-o-o-o-r-r-r-ing!

Why do you drop the cookie at first? For no other reason than to get a head start—after all, your dog runs much faster than you do.

The Front
Pretty soon, your dog will get the idea and you will need to throw the treat farther away to keep your head-start advantage.When you have at least five to ten feet between the two of you, show your dog the "right" picture as he is racing toward you—standing up straight, legs together, arms down at your side. At the last minute, spread your legs and toss the treat between them so that he races through them. If you have thrown your treat far enough between your legs, you can then just turn, face your dog again, show him the right picture and repeat the process. Once you have done this at least two dozen times, pull a switch and don't spread your legs. Your dog should screech to a halt and will most likely be straight in front of you. Click and jackpot each and every time he comes in straight. If he comes in crooked, don't click, just toss. If your dog comes in crooked anyway, just spread your legs and toss the treat through them. If he comes in closer to your right side, then step to the left and toss him through. If he comes in closer to your left, then step to the right. (If you step in the other direction, you are adjusting yourself to the dog rather than the other way around.) Be very generous when he gets it right. You can be "cheap" when he isn't straight in the beginning. After all, he did come when you called, so you still want to reinforce that. As he progresses and gets better at it, then you can raise your criteria and only click and reinforce those straight fronts that are perfect.

Showing your dog the right picture.

When you are feeding, make sure your hand is flat, palm facing the dog.This will help keep his body straight. If you feed with your right or left hand and his nose turns toward that hand, then his hind end will have a tendency to move out of a straight front position.

Once you have taught your dog the stay (see the honor exercise in Chapter 7), you can do the recall more formally. For instance, you can ask your dog to stay, walk out approximately six to eight feet, turn and face your dog and call him to come. If you'll notice, I am not asking you to lure the dog to front position. Fading lures is a pain; additionally, lures only teach the dog to follow your hands—I use them sparingly for that reason. Work on a great deal of eye contact in front position. Most of the time if the dog is looking up at you as he comes in, he will come in straight.

ADDING DISTRACTIONS

You are going to practice all of the behaviors listed in this and subsequent chapters in varied locations. Try to do this from the very beginning of training.

As noted behaviorist Ted Turner says, "when training a behavior, if you want to see a big change, make a big difference." If you give the same amount of reinforcement for a crooked recall as you do for a straight one, your dog may have a harder time figuring out what the right thing to do is. I am feeding with my palm facing Shadow so his head remains straight. Photo: V. Wind.

The sooner your dog is comfortable with listening to you in busy places, the better off you will be when you want to start competing. Buy a fifty-foot long line and go out and conquer. Why a fifty-foot line? The long line becomes a portable fence. You can't exercise a dog properly on a six-foot leash, and the leash is not a tool anyway, it is a safety net. If you are in a fenced in area, by all means feel free to train off leash to start. Be aware that the more intense the distractions, the more exciting your reinforcers must be. Start with mild distractions that are far away and gradually build to stronger, closer ones. Always set your dog up to be successful in ignoring the distractions. Train for more distractions than you expect to encounter. That way, once you are at a trial, the actual distractions will be a piece of cake for you and your dog. More information on positive proofing (that is, using positive methods to train a dog to ignore distractions) can be found in Chapter 8.

USING REINFORCEMENTS PROPERLY

As you begin training, it is important that you understand how to use food and other types of reinforcers properly. Yes, there is a great deal of information packed into the beginning of this book, but don't let this put you off. If you are knowledgeable about these things from the start, you won't have to go back and redo exercises later, and you will actually avoid problems. A little more time spent early on will save you a ton of time later. If you use only food to train, then your dog will only work for food—and let me tell you that is very annoying! If you use many different types of reinforcers from the get-go, your dog will be a more enthusiastic and happy camper.

Pairing the clicker with items other than food is not only possible, it is ideal. What are the benefits of this? You decrease the possibility of your dog becoming bored and increase his drive to work with you because he will never know what's coming up next! If you have a small dog, using other types of reinforcers is a must. The average toy dog, such as a Papillon or Miniature Poodle, only eats about one-quarter of a cup per day of food. If you use only food to train, your sessions can't be much longer than a few minutes.Another benefit is that you won't have to always carry food around with you in order to train your dog. You can also use life rewards paired with the clicker.

Now, instead of constantly trying to block your dog from the environment, you can take advantage of it! If you have a real problem with your dog constantly sniffing and you can't get his attention, use sniffing to your benefit. If you utilize sniffing as an occasional reinforcer for the behavior you want, your dog won't have to "steal" opportunities to do it, and believe it or not, he will pay much more attention to you.You can be unpredictable and exciting when doling out a reinforcer. Mix up your reinforcers and deliver them in fun and interesting ways; for instance, you can toss treats or toys up in the air rather than just handing them to your dog. You will help create a dog that is more compliant to you, happier and more fulfilled because everything becomes a reward for correct behavior.

People look at me funny when I tell them that I train my own dogs—and quite a few of my students' dogs—off leash before working on leash. Because we work so hard on building a relationship/bond with our dogs, we don't need a leash to train the behaviors listed in this book. The leash doesn't control your dog—your training controls your dog.

VARIABLE SCHEDULE AND TYPE OF REINFORCEMENT
A variable type and variable schedule of reinforcement gets the bests results in dog training. "Type" refers to the reinforcer itself (food, play, sniffing, etc.). "Schedule" refers to how often you hand out the reward (every time the correct behavior is performed, every fifth time, randomly, etc.) Because we humans are creatures of habit, we tend to get a little boring when we reinforce and start acting like vending machines ("put a dollar in, get a soda"). If you go on too long with such a consistent reward schedule (also called a 1:1 ratio), and then try to go to a random schedule of reinforcement, you can create a dog that will simply walk away when he sees you have no treats on you or in your hand. He is not resisting you or being stubborn or stupid—you are obviously "out of order." You wouldn't keep putting money into a broken vending machine; neither will your dog. To become more unpredictable and fun, become a slot machine. For those of you who have ever played the slots, you know how addicting they can be. So take that lesson and utilize it so you become addicting to your dog. Let's say you are doing an entire training session, with a come front, moving down, eye contact, heeling or any number of the behaviors listed in this book. A slot machine would reward only a few of the behaviors in each sequence. Maybe out of ten steps of heeling, you reward three times. Then out of the next ten steps of heeling, you reward two times, then four, then one, then six and so on (this is a variable schedule). You can also make the rewards more diverse. Try:

• Giving an entire handful of treats
• Clapping and cheering
• Letting your dog go sniff the ground
• Teasing him with a treat
• Letting him play with a toy
• Teasing him with the toy
• Petting softly
• Petting roughly
• Running around and letting your dog chase you
• Getting down and cuddling
• Plucking grass or snow and flinging it up in the air

Be inventive and impulsive! Your dog will work harder for fewer and more varied reinforcers. When he has done something amazingly well—a perfectly straight sit, super heel, phenomenal disregard of the chattering squirrel that just ran by—go wild and give him a big jackpot. If you are working on a behavior that has been hard for him and "the light comes on and someone is now home," by all means heavily reward that as well. Even the easier behaviors should once in a while reap a reinforcement bonanza. Remember, your dog is working with you, not because he must, but because you are making it valuable for him. He doesn't care about the ribbons or titles; he cares about having fun.

RELATING TO RALLY
Now that you have some basics under your belt and for a few weeks have been practicing all of these behaviors—eye contact, name recognition, come word recognition, sit in front position, sit in heel position, down next to you and recall games—it's time to start relating them specifically to Rally.

• Keep your sessions short and different every time.
• Train for approximately three to four sessions per day, three to five minutes per session. End before the dog gets tired.
• Mix up the order of behaviors—don't always ask for a sit, then down, etc. Don't be predictable!
• Intersperse play into your training. Done correctly, training should be as fun as play.
• Practice in many different locations from the very beginning. You won't be sorry that you did because it will make the transition easier for you and your dog once you start competing.
• Reinforcers can be anything the dog wants at the time, including "life rewards" (such as eating dinner, going out for a walk, playing, getting attention,etc.). If your dog consistently tunes you out, change your reinforcer. If you like Cheerios, but love lobster, which would you work harder for?

Although I do use food to train my dogs, I don't use food exclusively and am a fanatic against fat dogs. If necessary, cut down on your dog's regular food intake so he will not gain weight. When you start training, your dog may experience some diarrhea; to avoid this, gradually introduce your training treats in with his regular dinner so his system will adapt more readily to the treats.

• When used, food should be a reward, not a bribe or a lure.
• Your dog will perform better if he doesn't receive food for every correct behavior. Be a slot machine, not a vending machine!
• Be sure to build up the value of other types of reinforcers. You won't always have food with you.

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Table of Contents

Acknowledgments 1
Introduction 3
Chapter 1—INTRODUCTION TO RALLY 5
Reasons to Compete in Rally 6
How Rally Differs from Competition Obedience 6
Training with Positive Methods 7
Basic Differences between AKC and APDT Rally 9
APDT Rally 9
AKC Rally 10
Rally Levels 11
Chapter 2—RALLY RUDIMENTS 13
Clicker Training in a Nutshell 13
How to Begin 15
Attention: Part One 15
Attention: Part Two 16
Attention: Part Three 16
On the Road 16
Get the Behavior, Then Name It 17
The Sit 17
The Down 19
Come 20
Recall Games 21
Heat-Seeking Missile 21
Tag, You're It! 21
Nature Walk 22
The Front Game 22
The Recall 22
The Front 23
Adding Distractions 24
Using Reinforcements Properly 25
Variable Schedule and Type of Reinforcement 26
Relating to Rally 27
Click Your Way to Rally Obedience v
Chapter 3—BASIC MANEUVERS 29
Nose Targeting 30
Stand 30
The Finishes 31
Left Finish 31
Right Finish 32
Adding the Leash to the Right Finish 35
Life Doesn't Always Go in a Straight Line 35
Right Turn 35
About Turn Right 37
Left Turn 40
About U Turn 40
"Four Chairs in a Row" Game 41
"Four Chairs in a Box" Game 42
Left About Turns 43
The Dance (a.k.a. Heeling) 44
Chapter 4—RED LIGHT, GREEN LIGHT 49
Halt and Automatic Sit 49
Stop and Go 54
Halt/Sit 54
Halt/Sit/Stand 54
Halt/Stand/Sit 55
Halt/Stand/Down 56
Halt/Sit/Down/Sit 56
Halt/Sit/Down 57
Halt/Sit/Walk Around 58
Halt/Sit/Down/Walk Around 60
Halt/Stand/Walk Around Dog 61
Halt/1, 2, 3 Steps Forward 62
Call Front/1, 2, 3 Steps Backward 63
Moving Down & Forward 64
Bonus Exercise: Moving Down/Leave Dog  
Call Front/Finish Right or Left 66
You Are Ambidextrous 67
Call Front/Forward Right 67
Call Front/Finish Right 67
Call Front/Forward Left 68
Call Front/Finish Left 68
Forward Right 69
Forward Left 69
Finish Left 69
Finish Right 69
Call Front/About Turn/Forward 70
Halt/Call Dog Front/Finish Right/Left and Forward 70
Bonus Exercise: Call Front/Side Step R/L 72
Bonus Exercise: Halt/Leave Dog/Then Call to Front  
(Angled)/Finish R/L 72
Changing Lanes 74
Fast Pace 74
Slow Pace 74
Normal Pace 75
Smooth Transitions 76
Chapter 5—IN AND OUT, BACK AND FORTH 75
Oops! Where Did You Go? 75
Spiral Right/Dog Outside 75
Spiral Left/Dog Inside 76
Moving Side Step Right 77
"Lean to the Right" Game 78
"Fade to the Right" Game 78
"Big Step to the Right" Game 79
Straight Figure 8 80
Serpentine Weave Once 80
Offset Figure 8 81
This Way and That 86
270 Degree Right 86
270 Degree Left 87
360 Degree Right 87
360 Degree Left 88
Halt/90 Degree Pivot Right/Halt 88
Click Your Way to Rally Obedience vii
Halt/90 Degree Pivot Left/Halt 89
Halt/180 Degree Pivot Right/Halt 90
Halt/180 Degree Pivot Left/Halt 91
Halt/Turn Right/1 StepHalt 92
Halt/Turn Right/1 Step/Call to Heel/Halt 92
Bonus Exercise: Halt/Leave Dog/Call to Heel 93
Chapter 6—TAKING IT TO THE NEXT LEVEL 95
Simple Combinations 95
Halt/From Sit About Turn Right & Forward 95
Halt/From Sit About U Turn & Forward 96
Halt/Side Step Right/Halt 96
Jumping 97
Send Over Jump/Handler Runs By 97
Beginning Jumping 97
Intermediate Jumping 100
Advanced Jumping 100
Adding Speed 103
Halt/Leave/Call Front While Running 103
Halt/Fast Forward From Sit 104
Stand for Exam 105
Halt/Stand-Exam/Leave  
Return & Forward from Stand 105
Chapter 7—COMPLEX MANEUVERS 111
Stand Still, Soldier 111
Moving Stand/Walk Around 111
Moving Stand/Leave Dog  
Turn and Call to Heel 113
Moving Stand/Leave Dog  
Turn and Down/Sit/Call/Finish 114
Put It in Reverse 117
Moving Backup/Heel Back 3 Steps Then Forward 117
A Few More Simple Patterns 120
Halt/Leave Dog/Recall  
Turn & Call Front/Finish Right/Left 120
Right Turn/1-2 Steps/Down Dog/Forward 121
Left Turn/1-2 Steps/Down Dog/Forward 121
Jumping Jiminy 121
Halt/Leave Dog/Recall Over Jump  
Turn/Call Over Jump/Finish or Forward 121
Halt/Leave Dog/Send Over Jump  
Turn and Send Over Jump/Finish or Forward 122
Direction 123
Directed Jumping 124
Drop on Recall 126
Halt/Leave Dog/Down on Recall  
Turn/Recall/Down/Recall/Finish or Forward 126
The Stop 127
The Drop 129
The Rest 129
Putting It All Together 130
Ending Exercises 130
Bonus Exercise: Turn/Halt/Retrieve/Finish 130
Honor Exercise 132
Chapter 8—POSITIVE SOLUTIONS AND POSITIVE PROOFING 139
Positive Solutions 140
Rewards 143
Sessions 143
Proofing 144
Distractions 145
The Liar's Game 146
Recall—Part One 146
Recall—Part Two 146
Distraction Heeling 146
Click Your Way to Rally Obedience ix
Chapter 9—IT'S ALL IN THE DETAILS 149
Premiums and Registration Forms 149
Match Shows 156
Scoring 156
Etiquette 156
Do's 156
Don'ts 158
Ring Savvy 158
Equipment 158
Appropriate Dress 159
Cues 159
Special Consideration 159
Appendix 1—Rally Titles 161
Appendix 2—Rally Signs 167
Appendix 3—Resources 173
About the Author 177
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Sort by: Showing all of 5 Customer Reviews
  • Posted October 9, 2010

    highly recommended

    this is a good book , but you need to make it digital!!

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    Posted December 20, 2009

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