Climbing Washington's Mountains

by Jeff Smoot

Overview

This select guide includes detailed, easy to follow directions to climbing 100 of Washington’s most visible, historically significant, and interesting mountains with summits over 5,000 feet. From introductory level off-trail summit hikes and scrambles to multi-pitch alpine rock and high volcano climbs, this guide is suitable for beginning scramblers and alpine rock climbers as well as more experienced climbers. Blending all types of climbing at all levels of difficulty, you'll find routes to popular scrambling peaks such as Mount Si, classic alpine rock peaks such as Prusik Peak, and to big volcanoes including Mount Rainier. Fully revised and updated, this book has been praised by scramblers, alpine rock climbers, volcano climbers, and trip leaders alike as being an accurate, user-friendly guide with superb, easy-to-follow route descriptions and drawings, to the summits of the mountains that people actually want to climb.

Product Details

ISBN-13:	9781493056439
Publisher:	Rowman & Littlefield Publishers, Inc.
Publication date:	10/01/2021
Series:	Climbing Mountains Series
Edition description:	Second Edition
Pages:	448
Product dimensions:	6.00(w) x 8.90(h) x 1.20(d)

About the Author

Jeff Smoot is an outdoor adventure writer and photographer primarily known for his hiking and climbing guidebooks including Falcon titles Climbing Washington’s Mountains, Rock Climbing Washington, and Best Climbs Cascade Volcanoes. Jeff's book, Hangdog Days: Conflict, Change, and the Race for 5.14, a historical narrative and memoir chronicling rock climbing in the 1980s, was published in 2019. He has written for Outside, Climbing, Rock & Ice, Backpacker, and Mountain magazines. Jeff is a founding member of Friends of Camp Long, a volunteer group that supports youth programs at Camp Long in Seattle, Washington, and the founder of Mountain Fest at Camp Long, an annual celebration of Seattle's rich climbing history and culture. He lives in Seattle, Washington.

Table of Contents

Preface xiii

Acknowledgments xiv

Introduction xv

Using This Guide xvi

Peak Selection xvii

Chapter Overview xviii

About the Climb xix

How to Get There xix

Route Description xx

Options xx

Precautions xx

Permits xx

Climbing Route Classification xxi

Equipment xxiii

Mountain Hazards xxiv

Wilderness Safety xxv

Mountain Weather xxvii

When to Climb xxix

Wilderness Regulations xxix

Wilderness Permit Requirements xxx

Zero-Impact xxxii

Human Waste Disposal xxxiii

Trailhead Theft xxxiv

In Case of Emergency xxxiv

Map Legend xxxvi

The North Cascades 1

1 Mount Baker: Coleman Glacier/Easton Glacier 4

2 Mount Shuksan: Sulphide Glacier 9

3 Tomyhoi Peak: East Ridge 14

4 Ruth Mountain: Ruth Glacier 17

5 North Twin: West Ridge 20

6 Jack Mountain: Southeast Slope via. Jerry Lakes 24

7 Black Peak: South Slope 29

8 Liberty Bell Mountain: Beckey Route 32

9 Silver Star Mountain: Silver Star Glacier 35

10 North Gardner Mountain: South Slope/Ridge 39

11 North Hidden Lake Peak: North Ridge 45

12 Snowking Mountain: Kindy Ridge 48

13 Eldorado Peak: East Ridge 51

14 Forbidden Peak: West Ridge 55

15 Sahale Peak: Sahale Glacier 60

16 Mix-up Peak: East Face 64

17 Buckner Mountain: Southwest Slope via Sahale Glacier 68

18 Goode Mountain: Northeast Buttress/Southwest Couloir 71

19 Mount Logan: Fremont Glacier 77

20 Bonanza Peak: East face via Mary Green Glacier 81

Mountain Loop and Index Area 87

21 Glacier Peak: Disappointment Peak/Cool Glacier 89

22 Whitehorse Mountain: West Ridge via Lone Tree Pass 93

23 White Chuck Mountain: Northwest Gully/Ridge 96

24 Mount Pugh: Northwest Ridge 101

25 Sloan Peak: Corkscrew Route 103

26 Cadet Peak: West Slope 109

27 Monte Cristo Peak: North Face via North Col 112

28 Columbia Peak: West Spur 116

29 Kyes Peak: South Ridge 120

30 Del Campo Peak: South Gully 124

31 Vesper Peak: Northeast Slope via Headlee Pass 127

32 Mount Forgotten: East Rib/Gully 130

33 Three Fingers Mountain: South Lookout Climbers Trail 133

34 Mount Pilchuck: Mount Pilchuck Trail 136

35 Mount Persis: West Ridge Climber's Trail 140

36 Mount Index: West Ridge/Slope 143

37 Gunn Peak: Barclay Creek Route 147

38 Merchant Peak: South Gully/Slope 151

39 Baring Mountain: West Ridge/South Slope 154

Wenatchee Mountains

40 Mount Howard: South Slope 156

Dakobed Range

41 Clark Mountain: Southeast Slope 160

Entiat Mountains

42 Mount Maude: South Shoulder 165

43 Seven Fingered Jack: Southwest Slope 168

44 Mount Fernow: Southwest Slope 171

Alpine Lakes Wilderness 174

45 Ingalls Peak: South Ridge 176

46 Mount Stuart: Cascadian Couloir 180

47 Sherpa Peak:West Ridge via Cascadian Col 184

48 Colchuck Peak: Colchuck Glacier 186

49 Dragontail Peak: East Ridge via Aasgard Pass 192

50 Prusik Peak: West Ridge 196

51 Cannon Mountain: Northeast Ridge 200

52 Cashmere Mountain: West Ridge via Windy Pass 204

53 Big Chiwaukum: Northwest Ridge & Grace Lakes 207

54 Snowgrass Mountain: South Ridge via Frosty Pass 212

55 Big Jim Mountain: North Slope/Ridge 216

56 Granite Mountain: Robin Lakes Route 219

57 Mount Si: Haystack Gully 222

58 Big Snow Mountain: East Ridge via Hardscrabble Lakes 226

59 McClellan Butte: McClellan Butte Trail 231

60 Granite Mountain: Granite Mountain Trail 233

61 Kaleetan Peak: South Ridge 236

62 The Tooth: South Face 240

63 Chair Peak: Northeast Buttress 244

64 Snoqualmie Mountain: Alpental Slope Trail 247

65 Lundin Peak: East Ridge 252

66 Red Mountain: Southwest Slope 255

67 Kendall Peak: North Ridge 257

68 Mount Thompson: East Ridge 261

69 Alta Mountain: South Ridge Climber's Trail 264

70 Chikamin Peak: South Slope 268

71 Lemah Mountain: Lemah Glacier and East Gully 271

72 Chimney Rock: East Face/East Face Direct 274

73 Summit Chief Mountain: Southeast Ridge via Vista Lakes 279

74 Mount Hinman: West Ridge via La Bohn Gap 282

75 Mount Daniel: Hyas Creek (Daniel) Glacier/Southeast Ridge 286

The South Cascades 292

Mount Rainier National Park 295

76 Mount Rainier: Disappointment Cleaver/Emmons Glacier 300

77 Little Tahoma Peak: Whitman Glacier 307

78 Pinnacle Peak: South Gully 311

79 Unicorn Peak: Snow Lake Route 315

80 Cowlitz Chimneys: West Side via Panhandle Gap 318

81 Tamanos Mountain: Southeast Ridge 321

82 Fay Peak: East Slope 323

83 Observation Rock: Flett Glacier via Echo Rock Col 327

84 Echo Rock: Southwest Gully 330

85 Old Desolate: Moraine Park Gully 332

86 Sluiskin Mountain: North Slope via Windy Gap 336

Other South Cascades Peaks

87 Mount Adams: South Spur/South Climb 339

88 Mount St. Helens: Monitor Ridge 343

89 Old Snowy Mountain: Climber's Trail 348

90 Gilbert Peak: Northwest Gully via Cispus Basin 351

The Olympic Mountains 355

91 Mount Olympus: Blue Glacier 360

92 Mount Washington: Big Creek Gully 366

93 Mount Cruiser: South Corner 369

94 The Brothers: South Chute 373

95 Mount Constance: South Chute 377

96 Mount Anderson: Anderson Glacier 384

97 Mount Deception: Royal Basin Route 386

98 Mount Clark: Surprise Basin/Corkscrew Route 390

99 Mount Angeles: Mount Angeles Climber's Trail 394

100 Mount Carrie: High Divide Trail Route 398

Appendix A Transportation Information 402

Appendix B Permits and Passes 404

Appendix C For More Information 408

Appendix D Further Reading 410

About the Author 411