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Climbing Washington's Mountains

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Washington is home to some of the nation's most inspiring and rugged mountains. Rocky summits, glaciers, high mountain lakes, deep glacier-carved valleys, and long, exposed ridges are just some of the rewards awaiting hikers and climbers in the Cascades and Olympic Mountains.From moderate walk-ups and alpine scrambles in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness and Olympic Mountains, to technical routes in the North Cascades, and including all of the state's 9,000-footers and high volcanoes, Climbing Washington's Mountains ...

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Overview

Washington is home to some of the nation's most inspiring and rugged mountains. Rocky summits, glaciers, high mountain lakes, deep glacier-carved valleys, and long, exposed ridges are just some of the rewards awaiting hikers and climbers in the Cascades and Olympic Mountains.From moderate walk-ups and alpine scrambles in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness and Olympic Mountains, to technical routes in the North Cascades, and including all of the state's 9,000-footers and high volcanoes, Climbing Washington's Mountains provides the information needed to climb 100 of the state's outstanding summits. Look inside for detailed descriptions of each peak and recommended routes, including: an introduction to each peak - geology, history, scenic highlights, and more; summit details, including elevation and elevation gain, route names and ratings, and trip distance and duration; detailed approach maps and illustrated descriptions of routes; route variations, alternate summit routes, and information on other mountains in the area. (6 x 9, 416 pages, b&w photos, maps)

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Product Details

  • ISBN-13: 9780762710867
  • Publisher: Rowman & Littlefield Publishers, Inc.
  • Publication date: 1/1/2002
  • Series: Falcon Guides Rock Climbing Series
  • Pages: 416
  • Product dimensions: 6.02 (w) x 9.02 (h) x 0.82 (d)

Meet the Author

Jeff Smoot is a climber and author based in Seattle, Washington. His other books include Adventure Guide to Mount Rainier and Rock Climbing Washington.

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Table of Contents

Map Legend viii
Preface ix
Acknowledgments xi
Introduction 1
Using This Guide 1
Peak Selection 3
Chapter Overview 4
About the Climb 4
How to Get There 6
Route Description 6
Options 6
Precautions 6
Climbing Route Classification 6
Equipment 9
Mountain Hazards 10
Wilderness Safety 11
Mountain Weather 13
When To Climb 14
Wilderness Regulations 15
Wilderness Permit Requirements 15
Zero-Impact 17
Human Waste Disposal 18
Trailhead Theft 18
In Case of Emergency 18
The North Cascades 21
1. Mount Baker: Coleman Glacier/Easton Glacier 24
2. Mount Shuksan: Sulphide Glacier 29
3. Tomyhoi Peak: East Ridge 34
4. Ruth Mountain: Ruth Glacier 36
5. North Twin: West Ridge 39
6. Jack Mountain: Southeast Slope via Jerry Lakes 44
7. Black Peak: South Slope 47
8. Liberty Bell Mountain: Beckey Route 51
9. Silver Star Mountain: Silver Star Glacier 54
10. North Gardner Mountain: South Slope 58
11. Hidden Lake Peak: North Ridge 61
12. Snowking Mountain: Kindy Ridge 65
13. Eldorado Peak: East Ridge 71
14. Forbidden Peak: West Ridge 74
15. Sahale Peak: Sahle Glacier 78
16. Mix-up Peak: East Face 83
17. Buckner Mountain: Southwest Slope 86
18. Goode Mountain: Northeast Buttress 89
19. Mount Logan: Fremont Glacier 93
20. Bonanza Peak: East face via Mary Green Glacier 97
Mountain Loop and Index Area 103
21. Glacier Peak: Sitkum Glacier 103
22. Whitehorse Mountain: West Ridge via Lone Tree Pass 107
23. White Chuck Mountain: Northwest Gully/Ridge 113
24. Mount Pugh: Northwest Ridge 115
25. Sloan Peak: Corkscrew Route 119
26. Cadet Peak: West Slope 123
27. Monte Cristo Peak: North Face via North Col 126
28. Columbia Peak: West Ridge 131
29. Kyes Peak: South Ridge 134
30. Del Campo Peak: South Gully 138
31. Vesper Peak: Northeast Slope via Headlee Pass 142
32. Mount Forgotten: East Rib/Gully 145
33. Three Fingers Mountain: Three Fingers Trail 147
34. Mount Pilchuck: Mount Pilchuck Trail 151
35. Mount Persis: West Ridge Trail 153
36. Mount Index: West Ridge/Slope 156
37. Gunn Peak: Barclay Creek Route 159
38. Merchant Peak: South Gully/Slope 165
39. Baring Mountain: West Ridge/South Slope 167
Wenatchee Mountains
40. Mount Howard: South Slope 171
Dakobed Range
41. Clark Mountain: Southeast Slope 173
Entiat Mountains
42. Mount Maude: South Shoulder 176
43. Seven Fingered Jack: Southwest Slope 180
44. Mount Fernow: Southwest Slope 181
Alpine Lakes Wilderness 185
45. Ingalls Peak: South Ridge 185
46. Mount Stuart: Cascadian Couloir 189
47. Sherpa Peak: West Ridge 193
48. Colchuck Peak: Colchuck Glacier 194
49. Dragontail Peak: East Ridge via Aasgard Pass 199
50. Prusik Peak: West Ridge 201
51. Cannon Mountain: Northwest Ridge 205
52. Cashmere Mountain: West Ridge via Windy Pass 208
53. Big Chiwaukum: Northwest Ridge 211
54. Snowgrass Mountain: South Ridge via Frosty Pass 216
55. Big Jim Mountain: North Slope/Ridge 219
56. Granite Mountain: Robin Lakes Route 223
57. Mount Si: Haystack Gully 227
58. Big Snow Mountain: East Ridge via Hardscrabble Lakes 229
59. McClellan Butte: South Ridge via McClellan Butte Trail 233
60. Granite Mountain: Granite Mountain Trail 236
61. Kaleetan Peak: South Ridge 238
62. The Tooth: South Face 242
63. Chair Peak: Northeast Buttress 246
64. Snoqualmie Mountain: Alpental Slope Trail 250
65. Lundin Peak: East Peak 254
66. Red Mountain: Southwest Slope 257
67. Kendall Peak: North Ridge 260
68. Mount Thompson: East Ridge 263
69. Alta Mountain: South Ridge Climber's Trail 266
70. Chikamin Peak: South Slope 269
71. Lemah Mountain: Lemah Glacier and East Gully 274
72. Chimney Rock: East Face Direct 276
73. Summit Chief Mountain: Southeast Ridge via Vista Lakes 281
74. Mount Hinman: West Ridge via La Bohn Gap 283
75. Mount Daniel: Hays Creek Glacier/Southwest Ridge East 287
The South Cascades 293
Mount Rainier National Park 295
76. Mount Rainier: Disappointment Cleaver/Emmons Glacier 300
77. Little Tahoma Peak: Whitman Glacier 306
78. Pinnacle Peak: South Gully 310
79. Unicorn Peak: Snow Lake Route 314
80. Cowlitz Chimneys: West Side via Panhandle Gap 317
81. Tamanos Mountain: Southeast Ridge 319
82. Fay Peak: East Slope 321
83. Observation Rock: Flett Glacier via Echo Rock Col 325
84. Echo Rock: Southwest Gully 328
85. Old Desolate: Moraine Park Gully 330
86. Sluiskin Mountain: North Slope via Windy Gap 333
Other South Cascades Peaks
87. Mount Adams: South Spur 335
88. Mount St. Helens: Ptarmigan Trail 339
89. Old Snowy Mountain: Climber's Trail 345
90. Gilbert Peak: Northwest Gully via Cispus Basin 347
The Olympic Mountains 351
91. Mount Olympus: Blue Glacier 356
92. Mount Washington: Big Creek Gully 363
93. Mount Cruiser: South Corner 365
94. The Brothers: South Chute 369
95. Mount Constance: South Chute 372
96. Mount Anderson: Anderson Glacier 377
97. Mount Deception: Royal Basin Route 379
98. Mount Clark: Surprise Basin Route 382
99. Mount Angeles: Mount Angeles Climbers' Trail 384
100. Mount Carrie: High Divide Trail Route 388
Appendix A Transportation Information 393
Appendix B Permits and Passes 395
Appendix C For More Information 396
Appendix D Further Reading 403
About the Author 404
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