Coaching Climbing: A Complete Program for Coaching Youth Climbing for High Performance and Safety

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Overview

Finally, here is the first comprehensive book designed for climbing coaches and teachers and parents of young climbers. Coaching Climbing presents an integrated approach to coaching, focusing on individualized evaluation and training of climbers as the key to improving performance and maintaining safety and enthusiasm. It includes exercises for working on movement, training for competitions, sensible physical conditioning, and injury prevention. Longtime climber and author Michelle Hurni explains how to evaluate a climber's skill level, set goals that everyone can live with, and teach kids to "climb with the brain." She details dozens of games and activities designed to motivate young climbers while teaching them proper movement and improving their technique. Additionally, Hurni explains how to make a safe transition from climbing in a gym to climbing in the outdoors. (6 x 9, 256 pages, b&w photos, diagrams, charts)

Product Details

ISBN-13: 9780762725342
Publisher: Globe Pequot Press
Publication date: 11/28/2002
Edition description: 1ST
Pages: 192
Sales rank: 470,333
Series: How To Climb Series
Product dimensions: 5.90 (w) x 8.90 (h) x 0.80 (d)

Meet the Author

Estes Park, Colorado resident Michelle Hurni was the top overall ranking among women climbers in the United States in 1998 and now coaches climbers and writes for the ESPN X Games. Former president of the American Sport Climbers Federation and U.S. Climbing Team member, she founded the U.S. Climbing Team Junior Pro Camp and has coached youth climbing for the YMCA and Boy Scouts of America.

	Acknowledgments	vi
	Introduction	1
	How to Use This Guide	1
	Why Coach a Young Climber?	2
	Attitudes	3
	Parents	4
	Where to Start	4
	Types of Coaching	6
	The Gym	7
Chapter 1	Gym Climbing 101	9
	Climbing	9
	Coaching	21
	Safety	27
	Setting Problems and Routes	29
Chapter 2	From the Ground Up	33
	Harness	34
	All Tied Up	34
	Brain Bucket	36
	On Belay	36
	Ropes	38
	Communication	39
	Climbing in the Gym	41
	Getting Down on Toprope	42
	The End	44
Chapter 3	Hit the Ground Running--The Starting Box	45
	Your Starting Box	45
	The Coach	46
	The Schedule	52
	Setting Goals You Can Live With	54
	The Kids	54
	Activities and Sample Schedules	56
	Practice Planning Chart	58
Chapter 4	Identifying Weaknesses Through Evaluation	59
	The Evaluation Explained	60
	Self-Evaluation	76
Chapter 5	Exercises to Work on Technique	79
	Footwork Exercises	79
	Body Work Exercises	85
	Coordination Exercises	89
	Clipping Techniques	91
	Handhold Techniques	94
Chapter 6	Climbing With the Brain	95
	Questions to Reduce Pressure	95
	Footwork	96
	Don't Let Go	96
	Set Your Position	96
	One More Move	96
	Plan Ahead/Visualize	97
	Block Out the Negative	97
	Fight the Tendency to Quit While You Are Behind	98
	Climb for Fun and the Rest Will Follow	98
	Engrams	99
	Falling	100
Chapter 7	Training Defined	101
	Power	101
	Bouldering	102
	Power-Endurance (P-E)	102
	Endurance	104
Chapter 8	Redpointing and Onsighting	105
	Redpointing	105
	Onsighting	106
	Reading Routes	109
Chapter 9	Power Games and Activities	113
	Bump	113
	Deviation	114
	Dynamic Movement	115
	Finger Board Workouts	115
	Systems Training	116
	Sample System Board Workout	122
	Campus Board Workouts	125
	Negatives	127
Chapter 10	Bouldering Games and Activities	129
	Categoric Cling	129
	Team Comp	129
	Bouldering Competition	130
	Bouldering Pyramids	130
Chapter 11	Power-Endurance Games and Activities	133
	Add On	133
	Bad Holds!	133
	4 x 5	134
	4 x 4's	134
	Home Base	135
	No Shake, No Take	135
	Numbers Game	135
	Pacing	136
	Pacing with Rests	136
	Stick	137
	Stick 2	137
Chapter 12	Endurance Games and Activities	139
	"Beep"	139
	Breath with Every Clip	139
	Carabiner Carry	140
	Circuit Bouldering	140
	Clipping	140
	Elimination	143
	Follow the Leader	143
	Hold Position (Four Count)	144
	Horse Race	144
	Push	146
	Resting	146
	Rest on Every Move	146
	Shake 'n' Bake	147
	Speed Climbing	148
	Tag	148
	Twister	149
Chapter 13	Pyramids	151
	Redpoint Pyramid	151
	Onsight Pyramid	152
	Long-Term Redpoint and Onsight Pyramids	153
Chapter 14	Training for Competitions	155
	Types of Competitions	155
	Training for Competitions	159
	Journaling	159
	Goals	161
	Training Cycles for Competition	165
	The Competition Brain	167
	Preparing for a Competition	170
	Sample Workout from a Professional Climber	173
Chapter 15	The Excuses and Counterexcuses	179
	Attitude	179
	Body Awareness	180
	Mental Discomfort	181
	Technical Difficulty	183
	Technique	184
Chapter 16	Life Outside Climbing	189
	Injury Prevention and Treatment	189
	Time Off	190
	Growth Spurts	190
	Stretching	191
	Upper Body Stretches	192
	Lower Body Stretches	197
	Weight Training	203
	Aerobic Conditioning	204
	Cross Training	205
Chapter 17	Let's Go Climbing!	207
	Liability	208
	The Difference	209
	Belaying	211
	The Elements	211
	Climbing Etiquette	212
	Is This Toprope Safe?	213
	Bolts	213
	Clipping Bolts	215
	Topping Out	217
	Exposure	219
	Ratings	219
	The Well-Rounded Climber	220
	Toprope Versus Sport Versus Trad Versus Bouldering	220
	Guidebooks	222
	Additional Gear for Climbing Outdoors	222
	Have Fun	224
Chapter 18	Sponsorship	225
	Who Can Get Sponsored?	225
	Team Sponsorship	225
	Individual Sponsorship	226
	Sample Letter Tips	227
	Etiquette--Yours, Not Theirs	228
	Sample Resume Tips	228
	Appendix	233
	Glossary	233
	Resources	241
	Programs and Organizations	242
	Index	245
	About the Author	250

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Coaching Climbing: A Complete Program for Coaching Youth Climbing for High Performance and Safety

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