Complete History of Surfing: From Water to Snow

Overview

“Illustrating the book are rare reproductions of early Hawaiian and Australian surfing that have never before been published, and the work of the world’s best surf photographers, gathered together in a volume for the first time; a feat remarkable even for a surfer of the authority of Nat Young.” – John Jones, Surfer

“Surfing is of course a great pastime, an escapist form of recreation, an artistic expression of the soul, a highly challenging sport for young and old, and… a culture. This book suits surfers, ...

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Overview

“Illustrating the book are rare reproductions of early Hawaiian and Australian surfing that have never before been published, and the work of the world’s best surf photographers, gathered together in a volume for the first time; a feat remarkable even for a surfer of the authority of Nat Young.” – John Jones, Surfer

“Surfing is of course a great pastime, an escapist form of recreation, an artistic expression of the soul, a highly challenging sport for young and old, and… a culture. This book suits surfers, historians, and beachgoers alike.”
– Bill Smith, Los Angeles Times

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Product Details

  • ISBN-13: 9781423602668
  • Publisher: Smith, Gibbs Publisher
  • Publication date: 1/16/2008
  • Pages: 240
  • Sales rank: 986,782
  • Product dimensions: 9.10 (w) x 12.40 (h) x 0.90 (d)

Meet the Author

Nat Young is recognized as one of the great surfers in the history of the sport, having won the world championships in 1966. At that time his new power-oriented surfing style was based on surfing a shorter board than was traditionally used. He is credited with starting the style which was the basis for contemporary surfing. He was born in 1947, and grew up in Collaroy on Sydney, Australia's, northern beaches, where he lives with his family

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Read an Excerpt

Nobody is quite sure when the Polynesians began to surf, but Hawaiian chants which date back to the 15th century AD tell stories od surfing exploits which seem to dhow that surfing was as major part of Hawaiian life long before that. For as long, perhaps, as the HAwaiians had existed as an indepent race. And though we know that the Tahitians, for instance, has long practised surfing it was Hawaii which was the source of the sport's great expansion.

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Table of Contents

Surfer 18

Surfing Roots 30

Bathing and Bodysurfing 34

Hawaiian Revival 42

Heyday of the Hollow Board 48

Between the Wars 52

Evolution of the Modern Board 61

The Age of Surf Clubs 68

Malibu 72

Big Waves Big Boards 78

Surfin' U.S.A. 82

The Oz Connection 88

World Championships 94

The New Era 98

Pocket Rockets and Twin Fins 104

Soul Surfing 110

The Birth of Professionalism 118

Bustin' Down the Door 126

Surfing Gold 134

The Island 144

The Wounded Seagull on a Twin Fin 154

Two Fins are Good Three are Better 162

Kneeboards and Wave Skis 170

Surfer Girls 176

Towards 2000 184

The Beat Goes On 196

Changing the Guard 203

Back to the Future 212

From Water to Snow 220

Attitude and Hardcore Alternatives 234

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