The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting

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Overview

Here is the ultimate reference for fitting test garments and transferring accurate adjustments to patterns! No matter what size or shape you are, wearing garments that fit perfectly makes you look and feel better. Rather than making commonly accepted changes to a commercial pattern, the method presented in this guide focuses on the way a test garment fits the body. The fabric is manipulated to improve the fit, and then those specific changes are made to the pattern. The result: ...

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The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting

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Overview

Here is the ultimate reference for fitting test garments and transferring accurate adjustments to patterns! No matter what size or shape you are, wearing garments that fit perfectly makes you look and feel better. Rather than making commonly accepted changes to a commercial pattern, the method presented in this guide focuses on the way a test garment fits the body. The fabric is manipulated to improve the fit, and then those specific changes are made to the pattern. The result: patterns that fit perfectly!

With The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting, you'll learn:

- The importance of a fitting axis and how to use it during a fitting

- How to recognize fitting issues, such as drag lines and folds

- How to manipulate fabric to solve common and unusual fitting problems

- How to transfer the fitting changes to your pattern easily

- Basic pattern-making skills to ensure accurate alterations

See the fitting process from start to finish on basic garments, fitted on real people. Then follow fitting solutions on different body types. The lessons you learn will help you fit any body.

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Product Details

  • ISBN-13: 9781589236080
  • Publisher: Creative Publishing int'l
  • Publication date: 1/1/2012
  • Series: Complete Photo Guide Series
  • Pages: 224
  • Sales rank: 164,316
  • Product dimensions: 8.20 (w) x 10.70 (h) x 0.70 (d)

Meet the Author

Sarah Veblen is a custom fashion designer who focuses on teaching, creating clothing for her clientele, patternmaking and design consultation for young designers, and writing in several venues. She has a Certificate in Fashion Design from Baltimore City Community College and a BA from Stanford University. Dedicated to promoting the craft of clothing design and construction at all levels, Sarah teaches in her studio as well as other classroom venues and PatternReview.com. She has been a guest lecturer at PACC/ASDP chapter events and national educational conferences; at Threadneedle Fabrics in Essex, Vermont; for CG Garment Designs in Colchester, VT; at G Street Fabrics in Rockville, Maryland; at Cañada College in San Mateo, California; and for ASG neighborhood groups in Maryland, Virginia, and California. In 2001, she launched her own Intensive Study Program in Fashion Design, developed for both home sewers and sewing professionals. With an emphasis on design, fit, and pattern development, she currently offers classes on patternmaking, working with knit fabrics, many aspects of design, and sewing techniques. Sarah has more than twenty articles and various other written contributions and garments for THREADS magazine, as well as several “how-to” videos for the THREADS website. She was one of the three designers featured in the 1999 THREADS Design Challenge, and she was the overall winner of 2008 THREADS/ASDP “Fluid Fabrics” challenge. She lives in Sparks, MD.

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Table of Contents

Introduction

Laying the Foundation

Developing a Solid Approach to Fitting

Why Fitting is Complicated

Each Individual is Unique

Pattern and Fitting Basics

How Patterns are Developed

Finding Your Way Around a Pattern

Garment Silhouettes and Ease

Choosing a Pattern Size

Tools for Pattern Work and Fitting

The Interrelationship Between Patterns and Fitting

Overview of the Fitting Process

Recognizing Fitting Issues

A Framework for Fitting

The Fitting Axis

The Horizontal Balance Line

Fundamentals of Fitting Muslins

Learning to Look

The Body as “Volume”

Fitting Others and Yourself

What to Wear for a Fitting

Preparing the Test Muslin for a Fitting

Clipping and Marking During a Fitting

Pinning

Keeping the Muslin Balanced

Fitting Order

Fitting Tips

Assessing the Fit

Fundamentals of Altering Patterns

Glossary of Patternmaking Terms

Making Flat Pattern Adjustments

Transferring Muslin Markings to the Pattern

Blending Seams, Using the Rulers, and Adding Seam Allowances

Lengthening and Shortening Patterns, and Grainline Arrows

Walking and Truing a Pattern

Placing and Creating Notches

Controlling Patterns with Built-in Ease

Truing Difficult Seams

Moving the Placement of a Seam

Moving a Dart to a New Location

Truing Dart Legs

Scaling Patterns Up and Down

Working in an Efficient Order

Developing your Ability

The Process of Fitting Garments

Skirt

Bodice with Darts

Bodice with Shoulder Princess Line

Jacket with Side Panel with Set-in Sleeve

Tunic with Armscye Princess Line

Bodice with Raglan Sleeve

Fitting Solutions for Body Types and Related Pattern Alterations

Bust

Back

Sides

Shoulder Line and Neck

Set-in Sleeves

Raglan Sleeves

Waist and Hips

Fitting Pants

Understanding Body Mass and Pants Volume

Fine-tuning the Fit

The Process of Fitting Pants

Body Type Examples

Typical Pants Pattern Alterations

Going to the Next Level

Correcting Pattern Elements Affected by Fitting Changes

Waistbands

Facings

Collars

Linings

Get Creative

Using Style Lines to Create Pleasing Proportions

Dart Equivalents

Collar Variations

Cuffs and Sleeve Hems

About the Author

Index

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Sort by: Showing 1 Customer Reviews
  • Anonymous

    Posted January 27, 2014

    Perfect Fitting

    I have been a sewist for 30 years, have sewn almost every kind of project there is and have been introduced to several fitting systems. None of these systems has been perfect and so I have gone back and forth with garment sewing.
    Having gotton well into the book I can say this is a very clear, understandable, well written method with plenty of supporting photos. I am anxious to try this method and feel it will be very successful.

    Was this review helpful? Yes  No   Report this review
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