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Join Chef Daniel Hoyer on a culinary adventure through the vibrant culture, history, and cuisines of Mexico. The rich history and myriad cultural influences of Mexico are reflected in its cuisine, and it's high time we abandon old notions of Mexican food as tacos, enchiladas, burritos, and refried beans all smothered in melted cheese. Dismissing these long-standing stereotypes, Culinary Mexico presents an extensive collection of surprisingly distinct recipes from the diverse regions of Mexico. The delicious food that has evolved from each region makes a bold statement of what a true Mexican feast can and ought to be.
Culinary Mexico presents cuisines from six distinct Mexican regions, from the Northern Frontier to the Yucatán Peninsula. The book also includes process photos for cooking, a chapter on techniques, and a resource section. Brimming with full-color photography and interesting lore, this superb cookbook brings you an unexplored world of nuanced flavors, unique ingredients, and all things good of culinary Mexico.
Daniel Hoyer first learned to cook as a young boy by helping his two grandmothers in the kitchen. By the time he was a teenager, he began working in restaurants, and he supported himself in college-where he studied preveterinary medicine-by cooking. He finally followed his love of cooking to make his career as a chef. His stint as sous chef for Mark Miller's Coyote Cafe inspired his interest in Mexican and Latin American cuisine.
Chef Daniel has traveled extensively in Mexico, exploring the cooking, as well as the history and culture, of that colorful country. He is currently a restaurant consultant, cooking-school instructor, and guide for gastronomic-adventure tours in Mexico. He resides in Santa Fe, New Mexico, with his family.
After my Interview with Richard Hetzler of Mitsitam Cafe, I thought I ought to take a closer look at foods from south of the border.
A look at Culinary Mexico (Gibbs Smith, 2005) by Daniel Hoyer convinced me it would be a good place to start. The book introduces us to cuisines from 6 Mexican regions from Northern Frontier to Yucatan Peninsula.
— Serge Lescouarnec
After my Interview with Richard Hetzler of Mitsitam Cafe, I thought I ought to take a closer look at foods from south of the border.
A look at Culinary Mexico (Gibbs Smith, 2005) by Daniel Hoyer convinced me it would be a good place to start. The book introduces us to cuisines from 6 Mexican regions from Northern Frontier to Yucatan Peninsula.
Queso Fundido WARM CHEESE DIP
LITERALLY MEANING "MELTED CHEESE," Queso Fundido is a widely available appetizer at many restaurants in Mexico as well as in the United States. Many variations use different cheese selections, assorted flavorings, and additions. This version is my own, based on the many I have tasted around Mexico. When you get the hang of this recipe, you can experiment to make your own creations. Queso Fundido goes well with Guacamole (see page 69) and your favorite salsa.
1/2 pound longaniza or chorizo
1/2 pound mushrooms (white button, crimini, shiitake), sliced
Oil for sautéeing
Generous dash of salt
4 leaves fresh epazote, roughly chopped (or 1 to 2 tablespoons Mexican oregano, toasted)
1 or 2 thinly sliced chipotle chiles en adobo (or 1 ancho or guajillo chile, stemmed, seeded, toasted, and cut into thin strips, see page 25)
1 pound cheese (Mennonite, asadero, quesadilla, fontina, or Monterey Jack), shredded
1/2 white onion, cut into long slivers
1. Lightly sauté the longaniza or chorizo in a little oil until cooked through and fat is fully rendered. (If using longaniza or chorizo in a casing, first remove the skin, and then cut into 1/2-inch pieces.) Drain in a strainer and reserve the fat.
2. Sauté the mushrooms on medium-high in the chorizo fat until nicely browned (if the chorizo is lean, you may need a little extra oil for the mushrooms). Add the chorizo, salt, epazote or oregano, and chiles and heat through, mixing well.
3. In a lightly oiled, oven-proof gratin dish, casserole, cast-iron skillet, or other pan (small for individual servings or large for family style), spread half of the cheese, then add an even layer of the mushroom mixture. Top with the remaining cheese, then the onion slivers.
4. Place under a broiler on high or in a 475-degree F oven until the cheese is bubbly and beginning to brown a little.
5. Serve immediately with warm flour tortillas cut in wedges.
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS AS AN APPETIZER
Acknowledgments / 11
Introduction / 13
Techniques and Ingredients / 16
La Frontera, The Northern Frontier / 30
Machaca Norteña Northern-Style Shredded Beef . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Cabrito Asado Nuevo León Nuevo León-Style Roasted Young Goat . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Durango-Style White Beans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
Empanadas de Harina Flour Pastry Turnovers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Caldo de Tomate con Albondigas de Pescado Tomato Broth with Fish Meatballs . . .43
Jocoque Mexican-Style Sour Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45
Tacos de Pescado Baja-Style Fish Tacos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47
Caldo de Habas con Nopales Fava Bean Soup with Cactus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49
Churros . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50
Chiles Jalapeños en Escabeche Pickled Jalapeño Chiles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51
Caldillo Norteño Durango-Style Beef Stew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52
Frijoles Charros Cowboy-Style Beans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53
La Costa Oro, The Pacific Coast / 54
Al Pastor Pork Cooked with Pineapples and Chiles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56
Ceviche Citrus-Marinated Fresh Fish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59
Sopa del Pan Bread Soup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61
Tepache Fermented Pineapple Beverage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63
Pollo a las Brasas (Asados) Charcoal-Grilled Chicken on a Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65
Tamales de Camarón Nayarit Nayarit-Style Shrimp Tamales . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66
Guacamole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69
Vinagre de Piña Pineapple Vinegar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71
Sopa de Flor de Calabaza Squash Blossom and Sweet Corn Soup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72
Camarones en el Mojo de Ajo Garlic Shrimp with Chiles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73
El Istmo, The Isthmus of Tehuantepec / 74
Bocadillos Potato Fritters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77
Robalo Relleno de Camarón y Jaiba Whitefish Stuffed with Shrimp and Crab . . . . . . . .78
Manchamanteles Fruity Red Mole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80
Huachinango Veracruzano Veracruz-Style Red Snapper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .83
Tamales de AnÃs Sweet Anise-Seed Tamales . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85
Tapiste Veracruz-Style Chicken Steamed in Banana Leaves with Green Herb Sauce . . . . .86
Cóctel de Camarón con Chipotle y Aguacate Shrimp Cocktail with Avocado and Chipotle Chiles . .. .90
Pollo en Escabeche Oriental Eastern-Style Soused Chicken . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .92
Manilla Veracruz-Style Minced Fish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95
Chilpachole de Jaiba Crab and Epazote Stew with Chipotle and Tomato . . . . . . . . . . .96
Pescado Ajillo Fish Fillet with Chiles and Garlic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .99
Helado de Coco Coconut Ice Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .101
Salsa de Cacahuate Peanut and Chipotle-Chile Salsa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .102
Arroz Verde Green Rice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103
Pierna de Cerdo Adobada Chile-Spiced Roast Pork Leg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .105
Pay de Queso con Piña Cheese Pie with Pineapples . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .107
Cecina Enchilada Chile-Marinated Pork in Thin Sheets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108
Pasta de Chile Seco Xiqueño Veracruz-Style Chipotle Chile Seasoning Paste . . . . . . .110
Camarones Enchipotlados Shrimp in Hot and Smoky Chipotle Sauce . . . . . . . . . . . .113
La Encrucijada, The Central Crossroads / 114
Chiles en Nogada (Puebla) Chile Rellenos in Walnut Sauce with Pork-Picadillo Filling . .. .116
Mixiotes Seasoned Meats Steamed in Maguey Wrappers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .119
Tortillas de Maiz Corn Tortillas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .121
Pepeto México Pork Stew from the State of Mexico . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .125
Salpicón de Res Shredded Beef Salad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .127
Frijoles de Olla Slow-Cooked Black Beans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128
Mole Poblano de Convento Convent-Style Puebla Mole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130
Arroz a la Poblana (blanco) Puebla-Style White Rice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .133
Xolostle Chicken in a Red Chile Sauce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .135
Crema de Cacahuate y Chipotle Peanut and Chipotle Cream Soup . . . . . . . . . . . . . .137
Caldo de Pollo Chicken Broth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .138
Caldo de Res Beef Broth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .140
Caldo de Pescado Fish Broth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .141
Salsa Fresca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .143
Salsa Verde Green Taqueria-Style Sauce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .145
El Centro Colonial, The Colonial Plains and Highlands / 146
Uchepos Michoacán-Style Sweet Corn Tamales . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .148
Tamales de Muerto Querétaro Blue Corn Tamales with Pork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .149
Churipo Country-Style Pork, Beef, and Chicken Stew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .151
Sopa de Tomate con Fideos Tomato Soup with Vermicelli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .153
Quesadillas de Maiz con Garbanzos Frescos o Flor de Calabaza
Corn Turnovers with Fresh Garbanzo or Squash-Blossom Filling . . . . . . . . . . . .155
Pozole Estilo de Michoacán Hominy and Pork Stew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .158
Lomo de Cerdo Negro a la Querétaro Pork Loin with Black Prune Sauce . . . . . . . .159
Pescado Patzcuaro Soused Whitefish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .161
Elotes Asados Grilled Corn on the Cob . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .162
Cajeta de Celaya Caramel Sauce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .165
Carnitas Braised, Fried, and Shredded Pork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .166
Barbacoa Marinated, Slow-Cooked Meat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .169
La Tierra Maya, The Yucatán Peninsula / 172
Papadzules Yucatán "Enchiladas" with Two Sauces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .175
Sopa de Lima Lime Soup with Chicken . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .177
Queso Relleno Baked Gouda Cheese Stuffed with Spiced Meat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .179
Tikin-Xic Mayan-Style Grilled Fish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .183
Carne Asada Yucateca Grilled Pork Steak with Achiote and Chiles . . . . . . . . . . . . .185
Brazo de la Reina Queen's Arm Tamale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .187
Frijoles Colados Yucateco Yucatán-Style Sieved Black Beans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .189
Ensalada de Chiles Xicatiques Rellenos Salad with Pork-Stuffed Yellow Chiles . . . .191
Tamalitos Chayas Little Tamales with Greens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .192
Tres Recados Yucatecos The Three Basic Yucatán Seasoning Pastes . . . . . . . . . .196
Recado Colorado Red Seasoning Paste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .197
Recado Negro Black Seasoning Paste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .198
Recado de Bistec Beefsteak Seasoning Paste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .199
Cebollas Moradas en Escabeche Pickled Red Onions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .201
Cochinita Pibil Pit-Roasted Pork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .202
Panuchos Quintana Roo Bean-Filled Corn Tortillas Topped with Chicken or Turkey and Garnishes .. . .204
Chile Poblano Rajas Pickled Fire-Roasted Poblano Chiles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .206
Chile Poblano Rajas Warm Fire-Roasted Poblano Chiles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .207
Sources / 208
Index / 210
Culinary Adventure Tours / 216
Anonymous
Posted August 24, 2005
When we're not cooking Cuban, we love to try other ethnic cuisines and Mexican food is no exception. However, we tend to shun the predominant Tex-Mex style in favor of REAL Mexican cuisine as enjoyed not in the tourist centers, but in the heartland of Mexico. We're adding Culinary Mexico to our small collection of Mexican recipe books. It joins books by Diana Kennedy and Rick Bayless as this author has created an excellent and definitive work on Mexican cuisine. Although we especially liked the recipes from the Yucatan, where many of the flavors echo those found in Cuban cuisine, we were even more impressed with Hoyer's sections on Mexico's Central Crossroads and Colonial Plains and Highlands where the cooking style is pure, simple, and uninfluenced by the tastes of American tourists on a beach vacation. If you want to explore a cuisine that is light years removed from the food dished out at the local Taco Bell, this is a great book with which to begin your journey. Highly recommended.
3 out of 3 people found this review helpful.
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Overview
Join Chef Daniel Hoyer on a culinary adventure through the vibrant culture, history, and cuisines of Mexico. The rich history and myriad cultural influences of Mexico are reflected in its cuisine, and it's high time we abandon old notions of Mexican food as tacos, enchiladas, burritos, and refried beans all smothered in melted cheese. Dismissing these long-standing stereotypes, Culinary Mexico presents an extensive collection of surprisingly distinct recipes from the diverse regions of Mexico. The delicious food ...