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David Kamp… The Devil in the Kitchen is a moving, unaffected, delightfully honest book. At times it’s almost sweet. The culinary memoir it most recalls is, of all things, Jacques Pépin’s Apprentice. Like Pépin, White grew up in a family that had little but an appreciation of good food. And like The Apprentice, White’s book has early moments of heartbreaking privation and loss that give way to a happy momentum — a dawning on the protagonist’s part and, eventually, on that of his bosses, peers and the public, that he is preternaturally gifted at cooking.
— The New York Times