Dynamics Of Coastal Systems (Second Edition)

by Job Dronkers

Overview

The book provides a comprehensive and up-to-date overview of the physical processes which, according to the present state of knowledge, determine the evolution of coastal systems and their response to human interventions. This response depends to a large degree on the self-organising properties of coastal dynamics, which form a leading theme throughout the book. The basic theoretical ideas are explained in text and figures and also in formulas for the more mathematically inclined reader. Theories are illustrated with examples from estuaries, coastal lagoons, beaches and tidal flat systems from all over the world. The rules and simple models can be used directly without relying on complex computations; much attention is given to the strengths and weaknesses of the underlying theories and their limits of applicability. The book is fully self-contained; some knowledge of basic physics and mathematics is recommended. The book is an upgrade of the first edition. Most parts are rewritten and chapters are added to incorporate research results, new insight and experience of the past ten years. This book is intended for everyone interested in coastal systems for professional or educational reasons.

Product Details

ISBN-13:	9789813143739
Publisher:	World Scientific Publishing Company, Incorporated
Publication date:	10/18/2016
Series:	Advanced Series On Ocean Engineering , #41
Pages:	780
Product dimensions:	6.00(w) x 9.00(h) x 1.70(d)

Table of Contents

Preface to the Second Edition v

Acknowledgements ix

List of Symbols xi

1 Introduction 1

1.1 What is this Book About? 1

1.2 Why this Book? 8

1.3 Who is this Book Intended For? 13

1.4 How is this Book Organised? 18

2 Morphodynamic Feedback 22

2.1 Pattern Generation 22

2.2 Time-Symmetry Breaking 25

2.2.1 Wave Asymmetry 25

2.2.2 Tidal Asymmetry 28

2.3 Spatial Symmetry Breaking 35

2.3.1 Morphodynamic Feedback to Seabed Perturbation 35

2.3.2 Stability 40

2.4 Linear Stability Analysis 47

2.4.1 Initial Response 47

2.4.2 Perturbation Growth Towards a Finite Amplitude 53

2.5 Instability of a Two-Channel System 58

2.5.1 History of the Rhine Delta 60

2.5.2 Principles of Channel Competition 66

2.5.3 The Bornrif Cycle 79

2.6 Summary and Conclusions 82

3 Boundary Layers and Sediment Transport 83

3.1 Introduction 83

3.2 Near-Bed Steady Flow 84

3.2.1 Flow Layers 84

3.2.2 Momentum Dissipation 92

3.3 Near-Bed Wave Flow 95

3.3.1 Wave-Boundary Layer 96

3.3.2 Wave-Current Lnteraction 105

3.4 Non-Cohesive Sediments 107

3.4.1 Suspension and Settling 108

3.4.2 Graded Sediment 116

3.5 Cohesive Sediments 117

3.5.1 Suspension and Settling 117

3.5.2 Fluid Mud 124

3.5.3 Deposition and Erosion 126

3.6 Biotic Activity 131

3.7 Bed Level Evolution 135

3.7.1 Morphodynamies 135

3.7.2 Suspension and Settling Lag 137

3.8 Sediment Transport 139

3.8.1 Bedload Transport 141

3.8.2 Suspended-Load Transport 147

3.8.3 Total-Load Transport 153

3.9 Summary and Conclusions 157

4 Current-Seabed Interaction 160

4.1 Introduction 160

4.2 Dunes 163

4.2.1 Qualitative Description 163

4.2.2 Feedback Mechanism 171

4.2.3 Dune Genesis in Steady Flow 174

4.2.4 Dune Formation in Tidal Flow 187

4.2.5 Antidunes 190

4.3 Ripples 194

4.3.1 Bottom Ripples in Steady Flow 194

4.3.2 Wave-Induced Ripples 202

4.4 Sorted Bedforms 209

4.5 Sandbanks 214

4.5.1 Qualitative Description 214

4.5.2 Tidal Sand Ridges 219

4.5.3 Zimmerman's Qualitative Ridge Formation Model 222

4.5.4 Huthnance's Analytic Ridge Formation Model 229

4.5.5 Shoreface-Connected Ridges 239

4.5.6 Trowbridge's Model for Shoreface-Connected Ridges 245

4.6 Summary and Conclusions 251

5 Current-Channel Interaction 256

5.1 Introduction 256

5.2 Morphology of Rivers and Tidal Channels 257

5.2.1 Bedforms in Rivers 257

5.2.2 Bedforms in Tidal Channels 259

5.3 Alternating Bars in Rivers 265

5.3.1 A Simple Model for Alternating-Bar Genesis 269

5.3.2 Development of River Meanders 282

5.4 Tidal Channel Meanders 289

5.5 Tidal Flats 298

5.5.1 Tidal Flat Sedimentation 298

5.5.2 Tidal Flat Profile 301

5.5.3 Feedback between Channel and Tidal-Flat Dynamics 304

5.6 Salt Marshes 307

5.6.1 Marsh Development 307

5.6.2 Interrelated Dynamics of Tidal Flats and Marshes 308

5.7 Summary and Conclusions 309

6 Tide-Topography Interaction 313

6.1 Introduction 313

6.2 Tidal Inlets 314

6.2.1 Tidal Inlet Characteristics 314

6.2.2 Ebb-Tidal Deltas 321

6.2.3 Tidal Lagoons 324

6.2.4 Estuaries 338

6.2.5 Other Inlet Types 349

6.3 Tidal Motion 352

6.3.1 Tide Propagation 354

6.3.2 Tidal Asymmetry 366

6.3.3 Slack-Water Asymmetry 375

6.3.4 Asymmetry of Shelf Tides 378

6.3.5 Influence of Human Interventions on Tidal Propagation 382

6.4 Equilibrium of Estuaries 395

6.4.1 Residual Sediment Transport 399

6.4.2 Equilibrium Convergence Length 401

6.4.3 Equilibrium at the Sea Boundary 410

6.4.4 Other Processes that Influence Sediment Transport 412

6.5 Equilibrium of Tidal Inlets without River Inflow 417

6.5.1 Equilibrium Morphology 417

6.52 Other Processes that Influence Sediment Transport 429

6.5.3 Morphodynamic Stability 433

6.5.4 Response to Mean Sea-Level Rise 439

6.5.5 Other Models for Lagoon Response to Sea-Level Rise 443

6.6 Transport of Fine Sediment 446

6.6.1 Transport Processes 446

6.6.2 Settling and Resuspension Lag 449

6.6.3 Tidal Dispersion 458

6.7 Summary and Conclusions 465

7 Wave-Topography Interaction 472

7.1 Introduction 472

7.2 Morphology of Sandy Shores 474

7.2.1 The Coastal Profile 475

7.2.2 Swash 485

7.2.3 Tidal Beaches 491

7.2.4 Upper Beach 495

7.2.5 Shoreline Patterns 497

7.3 Wind Waves Over a Shallow Seabed 500

7.3.1 Wave Types 500

7.3.2 Wave Transformation in the Surf Zone 504

7.3.3 Wave-Induced Cross-Shore Sediment Transport 513

7.4 Coastal Genesis 515

7.4.1 Response to Sea-Level Rise 515

7.4.2 Coastline Retreat 519

7.4.3 Long-Term Large-Scale Coastal Behaviour 525

7.4.4 Pattern Formation 527

7.5 Shoreline Dynamics 530

7.5.1 Large-Scale Shoreline Stability 530

7.5.2 High-Angle Wave Instability (HAWI) 536

7.5.3 Medium-Scale Shoreline Patterns 543

7.5.4 Shore-Normal Bars 546

7.5.5 Crescentic Bars and Rip Channels 552

7.5.6 Oblique Bars 563

7.5.7 Beach Cusps 568

7.6 Coastal Profile Dynamics 574

7.6.1 Shoreface Profile Models 575

7.6.2 Longshore Breaker Bars 586

7.7 Coastal Erosion 594

7.7.1 Shoreline Fluctuations 595

7.7.2 Interruption of Littoral Drift 600

7.7.3 Coastal Erosion Control 602

7.8 Summary and Conclusions 616

Appendix A Basic Equations of FLUID Motion 621

A.1 General Nature of the Basic Equations 621

A.2 Water Motion in Three Dimensions 625

A.3 Horizontal Flow Equations 626

A.4 Earth's Rotation 627

A.5 Vorticity Balance 629

Appendix B Tidal Propagation in One Dimension 631

B.1 ID Tidal Equations 631

B.2 Simplification of Tidal Equations 636

B.3 Nonlinear Tides in a Uniform Channel 638

B.4 Tidal Wave in a Uniform Basin of Finite Length 646

Appendix C Ocean and Shelf Tides 654

C.1 Tide Generation 654

C.2 Linear Tide 658

C.3 Tidal Distortion Along the Coast 662

Appendix D Wind Waves 665

D.1 Wave Theory 665

D.1.1 Linear Theory 665

D.1.2 Wave Skewness 670

D.2 Wave Transformation in the Surf Zone 676

D.2.1 Wave Energy Dissipation 676

D.2.2 Radiation Stress 678

D.3 Wave-induced Flow 680

D.3.1 Shore-normal Wave Incidence 681

D.3.2 Oblique Wave Incidence 684

D.4 Infragravity Waves 690

Bibliography 691