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Laurel's 'Simplicity, simplicity, simplicity seems to be the mantra here, but don't believe it for a moment. This is a simplicity based on complex intelligence, not naiveté. While many of the foods appear familiar and presentations are often modest and bistro-like, there is considerable creativity behind virtually every dish served. Laurel is one of those restaurants whose very look raises expectations about its food. Most of the time it delivers unflinchingly. Waiters wear khakis and striped shirts which take the edge off what's otherwise a formal and formidable-looking restaurant. The force behind the food is Chef Doug Organ who, though continuing to look like a Yale freshman, has developed an impressive reputation. A bar menu composed mostly of appetizers is available every evening for as late as anyone hangs out at the bar. Another restaurant Organ and a partner operate in Sorreno Mesa, the WineSellar and Brasserie, serves excellent food, but in no way compares to the uptown experience of Laurel.