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JiRaffe¿Almost the minute it opened in 1996, JiRaffe moved into the top rank of L.A. restaurants, thanks to the skill and passion of young chef-owners Josiah Citrin and Raphael Lunetta, childhood friends and surfing buddies who trained in France and in many of L.A.¿s best restaurants. Grounded in French technique, their cooking showcases a modern but restrained sensibility and a devotion to fresh, local products, gathered on thrice-weekly trips to the organic Santa Monica Certified Farmer¿s Market. They resist the California temptation to load up dishes with a dozen competing ingredients, instead letting two or three flavors dance around each other¿so a pork chop is paired with only a sublime apple chutney, and sautéed scallops need only rock salt and garlic to taste perfect. Let¿s just hope they don¿t get seduced into cloning themselves, the way Citrus and Michael¿s and Patina have done; this food works so beautifully because they¿re making it themselves, every day.