Everest: Eighty Years of Triumph and Tragedy / Edition 2

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For eighty years, Mount Everest has been the ultimate symbol of human endeavor. Ever since the first attempt in 1921, the world's highest mountain has served as an arena where mountaineers have played out their dreams and fears, bringing triumph and tragedy in almost equal measure.

The dramas of Everest have inspired some of mountaincering's finest writing and photography. In this sumptuous anthology, climbers recount and portray their struggles to attain the summit, the moments of success and defeat, exultation and despair.

All the great landmarks in Everest's history are represented. The pioneering expeditions of the 1920s and 1930s are recounted by climbers such as George Mallory and Eric Shipton. Sir Edmund Hillary tells how he and Tenzing Norgay became the first to reach the summit, via the South Col, in 1953, while Tom Hornbein describes the bravura West Ridge ascent by the Americans in 1963. Chris Bonington, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, and many more of mountaincering's most celebrated names also appear in this definitive collection.

First published to wide acclaim in 1993, the anthology has been expanded to include the 1990s, perhaps the most dramatic decade of all. Included in the new edition are passages describing the tragedies and disasters of 1996, including an excerpt from Jon Krakauer's epochal volume, Into Thin Air, and the extraordinary discovery of the body of George Mallory by American climbers in 1999.

The book also contains Peter Gillman's own accounts of some of the mountain's most controversial episodes, such as the disputed Chinese ascent of 1960 and the enigma of the yeti. There are comprehensive, updated appendices, including a full list of every ascent. The outcome is one of the finest mountaineering anthologies ever produced: a stirring assertion of the audacity of the human spirit in the face of challenging and perilous odds, presenting both the how of mountaineering and the why.

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Product Details

  • ISBN-13: 9780898867800
  • Publisher: Mountaineers Books, The
  • Publication date: 5/28/2001
  • Edition description: REVISED
  • Edition number: 2
  • Pages: 240
  • Sales rank: 1,003,768
  • Product dimensions: 8.94 (w) x 12.56 (h) x 0.67 (d)

Table of Contents

Foreword 7
Introduction 8
A Household Word 10
The Spotless Pinnacle of the World 15
'The Finest Cenotaph in the World' 1921-1939
The Dream of Everest 18
We Have Established the Way 20
The 1922 Panoramas 26
The Tortures of Tantalus 28
The Lama's Tale 35
The Photographs of Noel Odell 36
Two Frail Mortals 38
Pursuing the Dream 42
The Riddle of Mallory and Irvine 44
The Wrong Mountain 49
My Nastiest Moment 50
Mirages at 28,000 Feet 54
The Mad Yorkshireman 55
One Day Mount Everest Will be Climbed 57
'Ed, My Boy, This is Everest' 1951-1969
A Remarkable View 60
The Mystery of the Yeti 63
A New World 65
It Seemed Like a Lifetime 68
The Great Mystery 73
How we Climbed Chomolungma 74
Ridiculously Far-fetched? 77
Promises to Keep 79
I Was in Heaven 86
'All the World Lay Before US' 1970-1979
Sorry, Harsh, You've Had It 90
All the Winds of Asia 94
A Breath of Fresh Air 103
Women on Top 104
The Loneliest People in the World 106
No Sacrifice Could Be Big Enough 110
'A Dreamlike Sense of Disbelief' 1980-1989
The Summit at 40[degree] Below 117
A Partner in Myself 120
To Spend Eternity 125
A New Star to Follow 130
A Fine Day for Me 134
Sweet and Sour 144
Avalanche! 152
AAbsent Friends 154
A Dangerous Day 158
'Ya Gotta Want It!' 160
Plaudits and Brickbats 164
Get Down or Die 167
'A Blend of Fascination and Horror' 1990-2000
Our Last Chance 176
The Russians are Crazy 180
The North-east Ridge Complete 183
The Longest Night 187
Like a Mirage 190
In the Nick of Time 194
The Final Picture 196
Ten Times to the Summit 202
The New Stars 205
The Same Joys and Sorrows 206
The Five-Minute Climb 212
The Geology of Everest 214
The Fifteen Routes 216
Climbing Everest: the Complete Lists
Ascents of Everest 221
Deaths on Everest 232
Oldest Everest Climbers 233
Youngest Everest Climbers 233
Everest Without Artificial Oxygen 234
Ascents by Women 235
Heights of Everest Landmarks 235
Sources and Acknowledgements 236
The Mount Everest Foundation 236
Photographers and Picture Sources 237
Editor's Thanks 237
Index 238
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