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This book discusses the factors that need to be taken into consideration and offers a unique and practical method for solving problems. Its approach to design and flat pattern cutting is based on the appraisal of the fabric (according to a scale of five for each of five fabric characteristics – weight, thickness, sheer, drape and stretch) and body shape. The book is lavishly illustrated and makes use of numerous practical examples.
PART ONE: FABRIC ESTIMATION FOR PATTERN CUTTING.
A technical overview of fabrics.
A categorisation for designers and pattern cutters.
A categorised range of fabrics.
PART TWO: FABRIC AND FORM.
Fabrics and garment forms.
Enveloping the body shape.
Fitting the body shape: woven fabrics.
PART THREE: FABRIC, FORM AND FLAT PATTERN CUTTING.
Exploiting fabric characteristics (crossway cutting, knitted and stretch fabrics).
Subverting fabrics: adding extra structure.
PART FOUR: MODEL FIGURES AND GARMENT BLOCKS.
The one-fifth scale garment blocks.