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'Fancy yarns' are those produced with some deliberate discontinuity introduced either into the colour or form of the article with the intention of producing an enhanced aesthetic impression. Most fancy yarns are produced by specialist spinners using machines modified or specially developed for the purpose; others are produced from 'fancy slivers' used as minor components of yarns made by spinners with normal equipment; still others are made exclusively by filament yarns, using adaptations of the airjet texturizing process.
This is the first reference book to be devoted to the design and manufacture of these complex yarns. It describes the major yarn types, yarn structures and manufacturing processes. It provides a detailed analysis of all types of fancy yarns, not only in terms of the technical requirements for their production, but also in relation to their impact on fabric and garment design and the marketing effort required to place them effectively within the market as a whole. The text is well illustrated with diagrams, drawings and black and white and colour photographs of yarn structures and the equipment used to create them. It contains close-ups of the yarns themselves together with an analysis to show how appearance and texture can be varied by changing the feedstock or machine settings. Textile hisatorians and conservationists will find the book especially useful in helping to identify yarn types in historical fabrics and in developing an understanding of the variety of yarns available in antiquity and typical uses for them.
INTRODUCTION AND BACKGROUND Definition Purpose and scope Methodology
THE SIZE OF THE MARKET FOR FANCY YARNS Introduction Starting the successive scenario technique The method of the successive scanario technique
MANUFACTURING ATTITUDES AND THE APPLICATIONS OF FANCY YARNS Manufacturing attitudes and equipment Applications for fancy yarns
INTRODUCTION TO FANCY YARN STRUCTURES AND ANALYSIS OF FANCY YARNS Introduction Analysing yarns
STRUCTURES AND FORMATION OF FANCY YARNS Marl yarn Spiral or corkscrew yarn Gimp yarn Diamond yarn Eccentric yarn Boucle yarn Loop yarn Snarl yarn Mock chenille yarn Knop yarn Stripe yarn Cloud or grandrelle yarn Slub yarn Nepp and fleck yarn Button yarn Fasciated yarn Tape yarn Chainette yarn Chenille yarn Cover yarn Metallic yarn
MANUFACTURING TECHNIQUES Overview of production processes Yarn production systems Yarn and fabric trials Future developments
THE DESIGN AND APPLICATION OF FANCY YARNS Introduction The design implications of fancy yarns The use - or not - of luxury fibres Intellectual property in design Uses for fancy yarns New yarns, new fibres, new ideas The retail potential of fancy yarns Retailing Apparel fabrics Furnishing fabrics Designing the yarns The design of fancy yarns using computers Designing fabrics using fancy yarns and fancy doubled yarns
THE MARKETING OF FANCY YARNS The market size and form The markets available and marketing techniques employed Historical evidence for the status of fancy yarns The challenge of marketing Management and marketing issues as they affect the fashion and fabrics industries