Filet Crochet: Projects and Charted Designs

Filet Crochet: Projects and Charted Designs

by Mrs. F. W. Kettelle
     
 

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Now popular old needlework technique offers needleworkers elegant, simple crochet designs. Full instructions for working squares plus charts and photographs for over 50 projects, including doilies, tablecloths, centerpieces, borders, panels, baby items, and more. Also includes use charts for other forms of needlecraft.
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Now popular old needlework technique offers needleworkers elegant, simple crochet designs. Full instructions for working squares plus charts and photographs for over 50 projects, including doilies, tablecloths, centerpieces, borders, panels, baby items, and more. Also includes use charts for other forms of needlecraft.

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ISBN-13:
9780486156330
Publisher:
Dover Publications
Publication date:
04/26/2012
Series:
Dover Knitting, Crochet, Tatting, Lace
Sold by:
Barnes & Noble
Format:
NOOK Book
Pages:
48
Sales rank:
866,735
File size:
95 MB
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Filet Crochet

Projects and Charted Designs


By F. W. Kettelle

Dover Publications, Inc.

Copyright © 1979 Dover Publications, Inc.
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-0-486-15633-0



CHAPTER 1

FILET CROCHET


Filet Crochet takes its name from Filet Brodé which it resembles. It is at its very best when done with fine thread and the finest needle, yet it is handsome in coarse thread. For the best effect, the crochet must be firmly and evenly done.

MATERIALS.—Any good thread is suitable. In the list below the size of Cordonnet crochet cotton is given with the size of hook and the number of meshes in an inch of the work. As the size of crochet varies with the worker, the number of spaces given is only approximate.

EXPLANATION OF TERMS.—Chain (ch). With a slip knot on the needle, pull a loop through, then a loop through that, etc.

Slip stitch (sl). A loop on the hook, hook through work, pull loop through both.

Single crochet (s c). A loop on the hook, pull loop through work, pull loop through the two loops.

Double crochet (d). A loop on the hook, thread over hook once, pull a loop through work, loop through two loops, loop through remaining two.

Treble crochet (t). A loop on the hook, thread over hook twice, pull a loop through work, crochet off in twos.

Double treble (d t). A loop on the hook, thread over hook three times, pull a loop through work, crochet off in twos.

Space or mesh (s or sp). Chain 2, miss 2 sts of foundation, 1 d in next.

To add meshes at the beginning of a row work the required number of ch, plus 5 for turning, and proceed as usual.

The method of adding open meshes at the end of a row is as follows: Chain 2, a d t, joining where the last d was joined. Each succeeding d t is fastened under 2 threads in the middle of the preceding d t.

Puff stitch (see Figs. 31 and 32). A d in top of d below, 6 d in space below, join top of seventh d to top of second d with a sl st on wrong side of work, a d in top of next d below. Care must be taken to have all puffs on same side of work.

Picot (p). Chain 6, sl in first of chain.

EXPLANATION OF TABLES.—Tabulated directions are used for some of the designs, as they save space, and many workers find them easier to follow than the usual directions.

Each horizontal row of figures stands for one entire row of crochet. Every row is to be read from left tq right. When you come to the end of a row of figures, turn your crochet. The letters at the top of each column tell what the numbers in that column represent. "S" means "spaces." "D" means "double crochet." The foundation chain is always three times the number of spaces in the first row, plus six. For example, in the pattern, Fig. 4, the first row has 35 spaces or meshes; therefore, chain 111, turn. The first four rows read as follows:

1st row—Make 1 d in the ninth chain from hook, * ch 2, miss 2 stitches of foundation, 1 d in next. Repeat from * until 35 spaces are made. Chain 5, turn.

2d row—Same as 1st row. 3d row—Two sp, 4 d, 7 sp, 19 d, 10 sp, 4 d, 8 sp, turn. 4th row—Five sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 6 sp, 7 d, 4 sp, 10 d, 2 sp, 13 d, 2 sp.

From this, it will be seen that no attention is paid to blocks (solid mesh), although you can prove up your work in this way. Each single block consists of 4 d. Two or more blocks consist of three times the number of blocks plus 1. Always make 5 chain in turning. This makes the first space. When the row begins with d, use three chain for turning.

REFERENCE LETTERS USED IN TABLES.—Special reference letters are sometimes used in tabulated directions, and their meanings are as follows:

E.—Slip stitch over one space or four d.

W.—Chain 8, turn, 1 d in fourth ch from hook.

X.—Used to fill squares that would otherwise be left blank; the use of the letter prevents confusion.

F.—This means a "festoon" which is made as follows: Chain 3, miss 2 stitches of foundation, s c in next stitch, ch 3, miss 2 stitches of foundation, d in next stitch.

B.—Block. Chain 5, miss 5 stitches of foundation, d in next stitch; blocks are usually combined with festoons.

A neat way of finishing a triangular piece of Filet Crochet is with triangular meshes on the oblique edge. On the end of a row this may be done by joining with a t instead of 2 ch and d. For the beginning of a row, 3 chain are made for turning instead of the ordinary 5 chain. See also the directions for Fig. 55, page 20.

We are aware that some workers in Filet Crochet do not depend on directions, but prefer to follow an illustration of the finished work. It will be found that a number of the designs in this book have been arranged to meet the preference of such workers.

Unless the edge is of d, it is a good plan to reinforce the edge with a row of s c, put on after the pattern is completed. Sometimes the edge of single crochet is varied by making a picot at every 10th or 12th stitch.

The ability to crochet square should be learned and cultivated, as resulting in superior work and greater range of design.

When crocheting for any length of time, the fingers may become chafed. To avoid this, a good plan is to use a finger from an old glove.


LAUNDERING.—Although a new piece of work does not usually need to be laundered, it adds greatly to its appearance. The crochet should be squeezed, not rubbed, in good soap-suds. It should then be rinsed well without twisting.

When crochet is to be combined with linen, both the linen and crochet should be thoroughly shrunk. The crochet is then pinned on the cloth and the cloth cut to fit the crochet. This is the only way to ensure a perfectly smooth piece of work.

After a piece is finished, it should be pressed on a thickly padded board, under a damp cloth.

Figure 3. CENTREPIECE.—Use No. 40 linen thread and No. 11 hook. Take a piece of linen 18 inches square and pin on the completed corners. Mark the outline of the crochet with a basting thread, and cut out the corners, allowing ¼ inch for a hem. After the corners are sewn in, work a row of spaces around the piece; finish the edge with a row of single crochet, a picot at every fifth space. These corners may be used for a table-runner or bureau-scarf, by using a strip of linen of the desired length. In a runner, the crochet should be inserted so that the rows of work are parallel to the ends of the piece. Four tassels at each end make a pretty finish for a piece of this description.

In this pillow the crochet is done with No. 30 Cordonnet crochet cotton and No. 11 hook, and is inserted in a narrow frame of linen. The edge may be finished with bobbin lace or an edging of filet crochet. Attention is called to the two beautiful panels, Fig. 63, "Spring," page 24, and Fig. 69, "Autumn," page 26. These designs would make attractive pillows, and could be made up in the same way as the Peacock design.

Figure 16. CANDLE-SHADE.—The four block patterns for these shade are given other page (see Fig. 17.) Use No.60 Cordonet crochet cotton and No. 12 hook. The four sides are sewed together by the slanting edges, leavin all together at the top the upper and lower edges are finished with single crochet, having a group of five picots in place of every tenth stitch.

Figure 21. CENTREPIECE. NEZ PERCE DESIGN.Materials.—Two balls Cordonnet crochet cotton No. 30; hook No. 11.

For the linen centre, trace a circle on a firm piece of linen, using a teninch plate, stitch along the line thus traced with the machine three times, then cut the linen close to the stitching and cover with very close single crochet (s c). Upon this work the pattern.

1st row—Double (d), with 1 chain (ch) between in every stitch (st) around. The model has 277 spaces (sp).

2d row—Double in each d and d in each ch of previous row. 3d row—Double in every other d of 2d row with 2 ch between d. (These ch must be worked tightly.)

4th to 10th rows—Same as 3d row.

11th row—Widen circle by making 4 sp over the first 3 sp of previous row, then 6 sp over 6 sp; repeat all around.

12th row—Count number of sp in 11th row and divide by 8, to begin design. The number will depend upon the number of s c it took for foundation around edge of linen. The model has 300 sp, divided by 8 equals 37 and 38 sp for each motif, or 2 sp for top of design and 36 and 35 sp, respectively, between motifs. This row reads: 19 sp, 7 d, 36 sp, 7 d, 35 sp, 7 d, 36 sp, 7 d, 35 sp, 7 d, 36 sp, 7 d, 35 sp, 7 d, 36 sp, 7 d, 16 sp.

13th row—Work sp to within 1 sp of motif, then make 13 d (7 d over 7 d and 3 d to right and left of 7 d); repeat around. 14th row —Work to within 2 sp of motif, then make 25 d; repeat around.

15th row—Work to within 2 sp of motif and make 13 d, 5 sp (d in every other d with 2 ch between, increasing the circle), 13 d, finishing 2 sp to left of motif. Between each motif widen 3 times by placing 3 sp over 2 at beginning and end of motif and midway between.

16th row—Work to within 2 sp of motif and make 16 d, 7 sp, 16 d; repeat around.

17th row—Work to within 2 sp of motif and make 19 d, 9 sp, 19 d; repeat around.

18th row—Work to motif and make 5 sp over 15 d, 4 d, 9 sp, 4 d; repeat around.

19th row—Work to within 1 sp of d of last row and make 10 d, 7 sp, 10 d; repeat around.

20th row—Work to within 2 sp of motif and make 19 d, 5 sp, 19 d; repeat around.

21st row—Work to within 2 sp of motif and make 28 d, 3 sp, 28 d; repeat around.

22d row—Work to motif and 9 sp over 28 d, then 10 d over 3 sp, and 9 sp more over 28 d of last row; repeat around.

23d row—Work to within 1 sp of motif and make 16 d (covering 10 d of 22d row and 1 sp to right and left). Between each motif in this row widen 3 times by placing 4 sp over 3; repeat around.

24th row—Work to within 1 sp of motif and make 22 d; repeat around.

25th row—Work to within 1 sp of motif and make 28 d; repeat around.

26th row—Work sp all around, widen once over each motif and once between.

27th row—Space all around. 28th row—Space all around.

29th row—Five sp over 5 sp, then 5 d over next sp; repeat around. 30th row—Same as 29th row.

31st row—Three sp over 3 sp and 11 d over next 2 sp and 5 d of 30th row; repeat around.

32d row—One sp, 18 d (7 over 2 sp and 11 more d, adding 1 d and widening for last time); repeat around.

33d row—Double all around.

34th row—Spaces all around.

SHELL FOR EDGE.—Chain 3, 3 d in same place, fasten with slip stitch to top of next d of last row, ch 3; repeat around.

Figure 22. PILLOW.—Use No. 20 Cordonnet crochet cotton and No. 11 hook. Chain (ch) 270, turn.

1st row—Double crochet (d) in 10th from hook, 1 space (sp), (ch 2, miss 2, d in next), 7 d (including d after sp), * 2 sp, 7 d; repeat from * 20 times more (22 blocks of 7 d). Chain 3, turn.

2d row—Miss 1 d, 6 d in next 6, * 2 sp, 7 d; repeat from *, ending row with 2 sp, ch 3, turn.

3d row—Six d, 2 sp, * ch 10, miss 2 sp, 2 sp over next 7 d; repeat from *, having 20 chs of 10, after last 2 sp, make 6 d over 2 sp at end, ch 3, turn.

4th row—Six d, 1 sp, * ch 2, miss 1 of 10 ch, 7 single crochet (s c) in next 7 of ch, ch 2, d in d between next 2 sp; repeat from *, making 7 d at end, ch 5, turn.

5th row—Miss 3 d, d in next, 1 sp, * ch 10, d in next s c, 2 sp over 7 s c; repeat from * with 7 d at end, ch 3, turn. 6th row —Like 4th row, ending with 2 sp.

Work 2 more rows with clusters of 4 sp, and 1 large sp, alternating. End each row with 7 d.

In 9th row—After 2d ch of 10 make * 2 sp, 7 d; repeat 14 times, 2 sp, end row as before.

In 10th row—Work large sp as shown, then 7 d and 2 sp over those of last row, finish with large sp as before.

From this point directions for the border will be omitted and only the design of spaces and double crochet inside of the blocks of border will be given. These will not include any spaces between the blocks of straight edge.

11th row—Fifty-four sp. 12th row—Fifty-four sp.

13th row—Twenty-three sp, 10 d, 7 sp, 7 d, 5 sp, 16 d, 7 sp.

14th row—Six sp, 4 d, 5 sp, 4 d, 3 sp, 4 d, 2 sp, 4 d, 6 sp, 10 d, 14 sp, 4 d, 3 sp, 4 d, 4 sp.

15th row—Three sp, 10 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 13 sp, 4 d, 2 sp, 4 d, 2 sp, 4 d, 4 sp, 4 d, 3 sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 4 sp, 4 d, 2 sp, 4 d, 3 sp.

16th row—Three sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 4 sp, 7 d, 9 sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 13 sp, 4 d, 2 sp, 7 d, 4 sp.

17th row—Six sp, 4 d, 2 sp, 4 d, 4 sp, 7 d, 2 sp, 7 d, 2 sp, 4 d, 3 sp, 4 d, 2 sp, 7 d, 5 sp, 4 d, 5 sp, 4 d, 3 sp, 4 d, 1 sp.

18th row—Two sp, 10 d, 3 sp, 13 d, 1 sp, 7 d, 4 sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 6 sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 2 sp, 4 d, 4 sp.

19th row—Three sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 2 sp, 13 d, 1 sp, 7 d, 8 sp, 10 d, 8 sp, 10 d, 3 sp, 4 d, 5 sp.

20th row—Five sp, 4 d, 4 sp, 10 d, 5 sp, 22 d, 6 sp, 7 d, 1 sp, 19 d, 6 sp.

21st row—Eight sp, 16 d, 2 sp, 4 d, 2 sp, 10 d, 1 sp, 16 d, 1 sp, 10 d, 2 sp, 7 d, 3 sp, 7 d, 4 sp.

22d row—Ten sp, 7 d, 2 sp, 10 d, 1 sp, 10 d, 1 sp, 10 d, 2 sp, 7 d, 1 sp, 22 d, 7 sp.

23d row—Ten sp, 13 d, 1 sp, 7 d, 3 sp, 7 d, 1 sp, 10 d, 1 sp, 7 d, 3 sp, 4 d, 9 sp.

24th row—Ten sp, 4 d, 2 sp, 7 d, 1 sp, 10 d, 1 sp, 7 d, 3 sp, 19 d, 1 sp, 10 d, 7 sp.

25th row—Six sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 10 d, 2 sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 7 d, 3 sp, 7 d, 1 sp, 10 d, 1 sp, 7 d, 2 sp, 4 d, 8 sp.

26th row—Nine sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 7 d, 1 sp, 10 d, 1 sp, 7 d, 1 sp, 7 d, 1 sp, 19 d, 3 sp, 4 d, 6 sp.

27th row—Eleven sp, 13 d, 3 sp, 4 d, 2 sp, 7 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 7 d, 2 sp, 4 d. 7 sp.

28th row—Seven sp, 4 d, 4 sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 3 sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 15 sp.

29th row—Six sp, 4 d, 3 sp, 4 d, 4 sp, 7 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 7 d, 2 sp, 4 d, 4 sp, 4 d, 6 sp.

30th row—Seven sp, 13 d, 1 sp, 7 d, 2 sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 5 sp, 7 d, 3 sp, 4 d, 6 sp.

31st row—Seven sp, 4 d, 2 sp, 19 d, 2 sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 13 sp.

32d row—Nine sp, 13 d, 2 sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 19 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 4 sp, 4 d, 4 sp. 33d row—Five sp, 10 d, 1 sp, 7 d, 5 sp, 4 d, 2 sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 2 sp, 4 d, 7 sp.

34th row—Seven sp, 4 d, 2 sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 25 d, 4 sp, 7 d, 2 sp.35th row—One sp, 16 d, 1 sp, 31 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 2 sp, 13 d, 5 sp.

36th row—Four sp, 4 d, 5 sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 25 d, 4 sp, 7 d, 2 sp. 37th row—Five sp, 10 d, 1 sp, 7 d, 5 sp, 4 d, 2 sp, 4 d, 8 sp.

38th row—Eight sp, 4 d, 2 sp, 19 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 4 sp, 4 d, 4 sp. 39th row—Seven sp, 4 d, 2 sp, 19 d, 3 sp, 4 d, 6 sp. 40th row—Seven sp, 4 d, 6 sp, 7 d, 3 sp, 4 d, 6 sp.

41st row—Six sp, 4 d, 3 sp, 4 d, 4 sp, 10 d, 6 sp.

42d row—Nine sp, 7 d, 13 sp. 43d row—Three sp, 4 d, 7 sp, 7 d, 9 sp. 44th row—Ten sp, 10 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 4 sp, 4 d, 2 sp. 45th row—Two sp, 4 d, 4 sp, 16 d, 8 sp.

46th row—Ten sp, 7 d, 4 sp, 4 d, 3 sp. 47th row —Four sp, 16 d, 9 sp. 48th row—Ten sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 5 sp.

49th row—Four sp, 4 d, 2 sp, 4 d, 2 sp, 4 d, 5 sp.

50th row—Five sp, 4 d, 2 sp, 4 d, 3 sp, 4 d, 3 sp.

51st row—Two sp, 4 d, 5 sp, 7 d, 4 sp. 52d row —Eleven sp, 4 d, 2 sp. 53d row—Two sp, 4 d, 2 sp, 7 d, 5 sp.

54th row—Four sp, 4 d, 2 sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 2 sp.

55th row—Two sp, 4 d, 2 sp, 4 d, 1 sp, 4 d, 2 sp.

56th row—Two sp, 4 d, 3 sp, 4 d, 3 sp. 57th row —Four sp, 10 d, 1 sp. 58th row—Eight sp. 59th row —Six sp.

60th row—Six sp. 61st row—Four sp. 62d row—Four sp.

Continue the border as shown until it reaches a point, making 7 d in last 2 rows.

Figure 24. TEA CLOTH.—Embroidery and crochet are very attractively combined in this handsome cloth. The diagram (Fig. 25) gives the measurements of the cloth, and the crochet can be easily carried out by the aid of the details. The embroidery is worked with cotton in satin-stitch. For the crochet use No. 30 Cordonnet crochet cotton and a No. 11 hook.

To crochet the insertion, chain 11. The first row consists of 7 d (see Fig. 26), every other row being widened two meshes at each end. For widening at the beginning of a row, ch 8, turn, allowing 3 ch for 1 d, work 1 d into each of the next 5 ch and the last d of the preceding row, 7 d in all. To add solid meshes at the end of a row, when there is no foundation on which to work, treble are used, the first t being fastened into the same place as the last d in the row, and each succeeding t fastened through two loops at the bottom of the preceding t, 6 t being made in all. The 25th row begins at C (see diagram, Fig. 25) and ends at D. At this point it would be well to compare the crochet with working model (Fig. 26). Complete two sides of the diamond, ending at E. Figure 27 shows the corner. Cut thread, join at F and work the other two sides of the diamond like the first two, ending at G. Join G and E with 11 ch. Cut thread and join two spaces from the end of the line at H. Work the final triangular piece like the first, completing the insertion.

The illustration is a sufficient guide for working the edging, but the beginner will need directions for the corner. It will prevent confusion if the crochet is begun with the first row of this detail (Fig. 29) and the corner made first.

The pattern begins with the row marked A in Fig. 28, and it will help to compare the crochet with working model, Fig. 29, as the work proceeds.


(Continues...)

Excerpted from Filet Crochet by F. W. Kettelle. Copyright © 1979 Dover Publications, Inc.. Excerpted by permission of Dover Publications, Inc..
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
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