First Time Jewelry Making: The Absolute Beginner's Guide--Learn By Doing * Step-by-Step Basics + Projects

by Tammy Powley

Overview

With the expert guidance of jewelry-making expert Tammy Powley in First Time Jewelry Making, your goal is within reach.

The detailed descriptions of materials and easy step-by-step instructions for a variety of techniques will have you making earrings, necklaces, bracelets, and more in no time. The book guides you through the basics for a variety of jewelry mediums and methods, from bead stringing and wirework to chain making, metalwork, resin, and more. Simple projects like the Red Rhapsody Beaded Chain Bracelet, the Silver Metal Clay Link Earrings, and the Japanese Paper Ladybug Resin Pendant introduce you to skills you’ll use often as you continue to learn about and explore jewelry making.

With First Time Jewelry Making, you’ll soon be creating your own amazing jewelry designs with confidence.

Product Details

ISBN-13:	9781631596988
Publisher:	Quarry Books
Publication date:	03/26/2019
Series:	First Time Series , #7
Pages:	128
Sales rank:	442,411
Product dimensions:	8.40(w) x 10.80(h) x 0.40(d)

About the Author

Tammy Powley is a jeweler and workshop instructor who has written several books on jewelry making, including The Complete Photo Guide to Jewelry Making, Second Edition. She is also the former host and manager of About.com’s jewelry-making website. She lives in Port St. Lucie, Florida. To see more of her work, visit her blog The Crafty Princess Diaries at tammypowley.com. 

Read an Excerpt

CHAPTER 1

BASICS

Even though there are specialized tools and supplies required for specific types of jewelry making, a good number are also universal for the majority of jewelry techniques. If you are new to jewelry making, use this section to gain an understanding about the most common tools and supplies that are used for this very diverse craft. If you have tried a few jewelry-making techniques and want to discover more, refer to this section when you want to brush up on what you've already learned.

General Jewelry-making Tools

This section discusses tools that just about all jewelry designers should have in their tool boxes and includes general uses for each one as well as tips for picking a quality tool. Most of these tools are available from jewelry supply vendors, bead stores, or craft stores (see Jewelry Supply Resources).

CHAIN-NOSE PLIERS

This particular tool is helpful for just about every type of jewelry making, from beading to fabricating (A). The nose is slightly rounded on the outside but flat and untextured on the inside. Chain-nose pliers are helpful for grasping materials as well as bending and shaping. Look for a pair with a spring handle, and make sure the handle is not too long to comfortably hold. The handles can range in length, usually around 5 to 6 inches (12.7 to 15.2 cm) long.

BENT-NOSE PLIERS

These are very similar to chain-nose pliers when it comes to form and function (B). However, because they are angled about 45 degrees on the end, they feel more like an extension of your fingers when working with them.

FLAT-NOSE PLIERS

These are very much like chain-nose pliers (C). Anyone working with wire, metal, and even beads will find these helpful-they provide an extra pair of fingers for bending material. They are most helpful when trying to make wider bends in metal than might normally be done with chain-nose pliers, but the distinction between the two pliers is marginal. The very subtle difference is in the shape of the pliers' nose, which is (as the name implies) flat.

ROUND-NOSE PLIERS

The nose on these pliers is rounded like two cones, which is helpful for curling wire as well as metal plate (D). As for all pliers, a spring handle is preferable, and the handles should not be too large to hold comfortably. The nose should be tapered as much as possible to allow for forming tiny curls using the end of the nose.

WIRE CUTTERS

Wire-workers, fabricators, and even beaders will find a lot of uses for wire cutters (E). They are made to cut wire, but they are also useful for cutting beading wire, a form of stringing media. Try to get the flush-cut variety so that it leaves a flat end to any type of wire after cutting.

NEEDLE FILES

In general, needle files (F) come in a set that includes different file shapes such as flat, round, half-round, square, and triangular. They are available in different lengths, but the small ones are about 5 inches (12.7 cm) long. Needle files resemble nail files, but the grit on these is much coarser and is designed for filing down the ends of wire or rubbing out scratches on sheet metal.

POLISHING CLOTH

A polishing cloth (not shown) is handy for all types of jewelry making. Even beaders can use it to shine up metal findings and beads.

TUMBLERS

Tumblers (G) are usually associated with polishing rocks, but they work well for cleaning metal. The traditional rock tumbler can be used for polishing either stone or metal. Magnetic tumblers are primarily used for cleaning metal, not tumbling stones. Both work basically the same using stainless steel shot, burnishing compound, water, and lots of tumbling to clean up metal. However, a rock tumbler can take hours while a magnetic tumbler can take minutes to do the same job. Another difference is in price. Rock tumblers are often much cheaper than magnetic tumblers.

POLISHING MACHINES

Hand-held rotary tools and polishing wheels are staples when it comes to cleaning and polishing all kinds of metals. When using a rotary tool (H), you will need a variety of abrasives, available separately or in a kit (I). The small mandrels that secure the abrasives insert into the rotary tool so that you can switch them in and out as needed while polishing. These work well for jewelry makers who may have just an occasional need to polish metal. For larger polishing jobs and more frequent needs, a polishing cabinet and motor (J) might be required. The cabinet has a fan that pulls small particles away from the jeweler while polishing, but it is always a good idea to wear safety equipment such as gloves, mask, and goggles.

SAFETY EQUIPMENT

Various types of safety equipment may be necessary to have on hand depending on the type of jewelry you plan to make. Always work in well-ventilated areas when dealing with torches or chemicals such as epoxy. Even simple polishing procedures can cause tiny particles to disperse into the air. Therefore, masks and respirators (K) may be necessary to help protect your lungs. Eye protection (L) may be necessary when working with certain types of equipment, such as polishers. Bits of metal and wire can fly off while cutting or forming. Heat resistant gloves (M) are also a necessity when working with hot metals or kilns. Always read and follow safety instructions provided by manufacturers and vendors, and of course, use common sense when working with hazardous materials or equipment.

Jewelry Findings

Findings include items such as jump rings, bead tips, ear hooks, and clasps that allow you to connect components together to make a finished piece.

In the past, findings have been overlooked as the less glamorous side of jewelry making, but over the years, most designers' attitudes toward findings have changed because there is a larger assortment available, and unique findings can really add interesting details to finished jewelry pieces. In fact, it is even possible to make findings. This section includes an introduction to the various types of jewelry findings and their functions when it comes to connecting your jewelry designs.

EARRING FINDINGS

Fish or Shepherd Ear Hooks (A): These are some of the most common earring hooks. They are shaped in the form of a hook, and while the shape is the same, the design can vary. Some include a coil and ball above the loop of the hook, some have a flattened area around the curve of the hook, and some just have a loop on the end. All have loops on the end to attach a jewelry component.

Clip-ons (B): For those who don't have pierced ears, clip-on findings attach an earring to an earlobe. They also include loops to attach head pins or other dangle elements like charms.

Posts (C): Earring posts can come in a lot of different designs as well, but generally there is a stick through the center of the piece that is used for attaching to an ear. Some posts are flat or curved on one end so that you can glue on beads or flat-backed items like cabochons. Others just include a metal ball over a loop so that you can attach a jewelry component to them.

Nut or Clutch (D): The back of an earring stick or post must be secured with a nut or clutch of some kind. These have a hole that the post fits through. They are available in metal as well as plastic.

Euro-Wires or Lever Backs (E): These are a little more upscale from the usual fish hook variety of earring findings. They have a hinge in the center that allows the hook to open and loops on the end for jewelry components.

Threaders (F): Called threaders or threads, these unique earring findings are made up of a loop (used to attach a jewelry component) and a very thin chain and straight wire piece. To wear them, simply insert the straight piece and part of the chain through a pierced earlobe. They come in various lengths from 2 to 4 inches (5.1 to 10.2 cm) long.

Kidney Wires (G): These are also used to attach dangles in order to create earrings and are a similar shape to the fish hook style, but kidney wires have a small hook that allows you to attach the end of the ear hook and secure the earrings to the ears.

Head Pins (H): Used to add dangle elements to ear hooks, head pins are pieces of metal wire with one flat end that keeps beads from slipping off. The other end is used to loop and attach to the loop on an ear hook.

Eye Pin (I): These are just like head pins except one end has a loop or "eye" instead of being flat.

CLASPS

Spring Ring (A): These common clasps include a spring inside that allows them to open and close when the trigger is pressed. There is a loop on one side to connect to jewelry items.

Lobster Claw (B): These are very secure, and of course, look like the claw of a lobster. They have a loop on the end for attaching to jewelry and sometimes come with attached jump rings.

Hook and Eye (C): The hook-and-eye clasp comes in two parts: the hook and the eye. The hook attaches to the eye part of the clasp. These are primarily used with necklaces.

Toggle (D): This clasp also comes in two parts: the "T" shaped part and a circular part. To secure, simple insert the "T" into the circle.

Magnetic (E): These come in a lot of different designs, but all include two magnets that connect to create the closure for the clasp. They are useful for jewelry lovers who might have arthritis or other problems with their hands.

Slide Clasps (F): One side of this clasp connects by sliding into the other side. Most have multiple loops on each side to allow for multiple strands of beads.

Box Clasps (G): Very often, the box clasp is square, but it is available in other shapes, such as round and oval. One side has a hook that slides into the other side, which is the box part of the clasp.

Barrel Clasps (H): These also have two sides to them. The sides attach by one side screwing into the other side. They have loops on each end to connect to jewelry components.

CONNECTORS

Jump Rings (A): Used for wire, beading, and lots of other types of jewelry making, jump rings are round pieces of wire that form a ring. They can come unsoldered or soldered and are fairly easy to make (see here). They have many functions such as helping to secure clasps or connecting to more jump rings to form chains.

Spring Rings (B): These look a lot like jump rings, but instead of the two ends meeting against each other, they pass each other so that they look like a small spring. They are often used to secure heavy charms or pendants.

Bails: The types of bails available vary greatly, but its primary function is to attach a component such as a charm or pendant onto necklaces, especially chains. Some bails are designed to attach to a component using a jump ring, while others may be attached with solder or embedded into a component.

CHAPTER 2

BEAD STRINGING

Bead stringing is one of the most popular jewelry-making methods. The basics are easy to pick up, and considering the infinite types of beads available to jewelry designers, there are tons of designing possibilities. The process of arranging collections of beads in various patterns and color combinations makes this type of jewelry making very appealing. It is helpful to have a feel for color and form when creating bead strung jewelry.

Tools and Supplies

Along with some of the tools listed in the General Jewelry-Making Tools section such as chain-nose pliers, bead stringing requires a few specialty tools and supplies.

BEAD STRINGING TOOLS

Bead Board: Used for designing and determining the finished length of a strung piece of jewelry, a bead board is a board with one or more grooves to provide a place to arrange beads. Lines and numbers around the grooves indicate the length of the beads once strung together. This tool is very useful for moving beads around to determine the specific pattern before stringing as well as the final length.

Crimping Pliers (A): Crimp beads are best secured using a special tool called crimping pliers. These pliers have two notches in the nose that help fold and flatten the crimp bead around stringing medium such as beading wire. The inner notch is shaped like the letter U, and the outer notch is oval shaped.

Beading Needles (B): There are a large variety of beading needles available for all kinds of beads and beading techniques. For typical bead stringing, a collapsible twisted needle is most often used. Once the threading medium is attached and the needle is inserted through some beads, the eye of the needle collapses, keeping it securely in place on the thread. These needles are stainless steel, disposable, and very inexpensive.

Awl (C): An awl is a pointed metal tool used primarily for creating knots between beads.

Bead Stopper (D): This handy gadget is used to keep beads from slipping off beading wire and other stringing media as you work. Simply pinch the ends to open up the spring in the middle, slip the string between a few of the coils, and release the ends.

Bead Tray (E): A shallow bowl works well for organizing beads and keeping them within reach while stringing.

BEAD STRINGING SUPPLIES

Beading Wire (A): Unlike regular wire, beading wire is made of numerous strands of thin metal wire, such as stainless steel, that are then covered with a nylon coating. It is very flexible and strong and works especially well with heavy beads or beads, such as crystals, that might cut other types of threading medium. Beading wire is available in a number of diameters and colors.

Nylon or Silk Thread (B): Traditionally, pearls are strung on silk thread; however, nylon is another good choice when stringing pearls or gemstone beads. Nylon and silk threads come in many colors and thicknesses. This is the type of thread used with collapsible needles, and it is even possible to purchase a few yards (meters) of thread with an attached needle.

Elastic Thread: Stretchy bracelets are very popular and are made with elastic thread. Elastic thread comes in many colors, including clear, and ranges in diameter from 0.05 to 1 mm.

Glue: When securing certain knots as well as attaching findings such as bead tips, glue is very handy. Hypo cement is one of the more popular beading glues.

Crimp Beads (C1): Used to secure beading wire, crimp beads are either tube-shaped or round. The round crimp beads are normally only available in base metals. Tube-shaped crimp beads are easier to work with and more secure and come in metals such as silver, gold, gold-filled, copper, and brass. Though they can be flattened using chain-nose pliers, crimping pliers are designed specifically to secure crimp beads.

Crimp Covers (C2): These are not necessary for assembling beaded jewelry, but they add a nice finishing touch. They cover the crimp bead, giving the appearance of a rounded bead rather than a folded crimp bead.

Bead Tips (C3): These are also sometimes called clam shells because the double cupped variety has a similar appearance to a clam; they are used to secure knots on the end of strung jewelry such as necklaces. They also come with a single cup where the knot is exposed instead of hidden by the double-cup style.

BEADS

Of course, you need beads for bead stringing, and there is a wide variety available.

Gemstone (A): From amethyst to zebra stone, there is a gemstone bead available for every letter of the alphabet and then some. Very often, these come strung on monofilament that you then cut to access the beads.

Crystals (B): To add extra sparkle to any bead-strung piece of jewelry, crystals are the way to go. Swarovski is one of the better-known manufacturers of crystal beads, but there are lots of different types available. They come in all kinds of colors and also have various finishes such as aurora borealis (AB) or fire-polished, which creates a reflective rainbow effect.

Glass (C): Lampwork, pressed glass, furnace glass, Venetian glass, fused glass, seed beads, and African trade beads are all made from glass and are all very popular with bead stringers. Though the techniques for making glass beads vary, generally they are made by heating and forming pieces of glass, often in the form of glass rods. They may be created individually, which is done with lampwork beads, or they may be made from long tubes of glass and then cut, which is done with furnace and seed beads.

Ceramic (D): Not just for pots, clay is a wonderful medium for beads as well. While many ceramic beads tend to use earth-tones, paints and glazes offer other color possibilities.

Pearls (E): Because of technological advances in pearl farming, pearl beads are very affordable, though the quality can vary depending on the grade of the pearl. AA pearls are very high quality and thus will cost more than B grade pearls. White is usually associated with pearls, but these days they come in all kinds of colors. Sometimes this means they have been dyed. They also come in lots of different shapes, not just traditional round pearls. Coin, teardrop, rice, semi-round, and stick are popular pearl shapes used in bead stringing.

Natural Materials (F): Bone, horn, wood, and shells are a few examples of materials used to make beads. These types of beads are often strung with natural fibers, such as hemp and linen.

Polymer Clay (G): This medium is known for unique color combinations. Polymer clay beads are another lightweight alternative to heavier beads such as gemstones.

(Continues…)

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Excerpted from "First Time Jewelry Making"
by .
Copyright © 2019 Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc..
Excerpted by permission of The Quarto Group.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.

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Table of Contents

INTRODUCTION,
BASICS,
GENERAL JEWELRY-MAKING TOOLS,
JEWELRY FINDINGS,
BEAD STRINGING,
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES,
TECHNIQUES,
CRIMPING WITH CRIMPING PLIERS,
SECURING CRIMP COVERS,
SECURING FIRST BEAD TIP,
SECURING SECOND BEAD TIP,
KNOTTING: 2 STRANDS,
KNOTTING: 1 STRAND,
NOT YOUR CLASSIC KNOTTED BRACELET,
MULTI-STRAND FLOATING BEAD NECKLACE,
WIREWORK,
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES,
TECHNIQUES,
WORK HARDENING WIRE,
FILING WIRE,
MAKING A WIRE COIL,
WRAPPING A SIMPLE LOOP,
LONGER UNWRAPPED LOOPS,
MAKING A WRAPPED LOOP,
MAKING A FIGURE 8 "EYE",
MAKING A WIRE HOOK,
WIRE-WRAPPED BEADS,
WIRE-WRAPPED BRIOLETTES,
GYPSY CRYSTAL EARRINGS,
CHAIN MAKING,
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES,
TECHNIQUES,
FILING JUMP RINGS,
WIRE CUTTER JUMP RINGS,
JEWELER'S SAW JUMP RINGS,
CONNECTING JUMP RINGS,
POLISHING & TUMBLING,
DOUBLE UP TWO-TONE BRACELET,
RED RHAPSODY DOUBLE CHAIN BRACELET,
FABRICATING METAL,
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES,
TECHNIQUES,
MAKING HOLES,
SAWING,
PIERCING,
FILING,
TEXTURING,
FORGING ON A MANDREL,
STAMPING,
SHOT THROUGH THE HEART PENDANT,
METAL CLAY,
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES,
TECHNIQUES,
ROLLING METAL CLAY,
CUTTING SHAPES WITH CUTTERS,
CUTTING SHAPES WITH TEMPLATES,
MAKING SLIP,
LAYERING CLAY,
TEXTURING METAL CLAY,
STAMPING METAL CLAY,
KILN FIRING METAL CLAY,
FIRING METAL CLAY WITH A TORCH,
FIRING METAL CLAY IN A HOT POT,
FINISHING FIRED METAL CLAY,
SILVER LINK & CRYSTAL EARRINGS,
RESIN,
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES,
TECHNIQUES,
MIXING RESIN,
POURING RESIN FOR CASTING,
ADDING COLOR,
ADDING A TOP COAT,
JAPANESE PAPER LADYBUG PENDANT,
RESOURCES,
CONTRIBUTING DESIGNERS,
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS,
ABOUT THE AUTHOR,
INDEX,