Fish Forever: The Definitive Guide to Understanding, Selecting, and Preparing Healthy, Delicious, and Environmentally Sustainable Seafood

Overview

A unique cookbook and guide to healthful, eco-friendly seafood

Few people know more about fish than Paul Johnson, whose Monterey Fish Market in San Francisco supplies seafood to some of the nation's most celebrated chefs, from Alice Waters, Thomas Keller, and Michael Mina to Todd English, Daniel Boulud, and Alain Ducasse. In Fish Forever, Johnson offers a cookbook for anyone who loves fish, but worries about overfishing, contaminants like ...

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Overview

A unique cookbook and guide to healthful, eco-friendly seafood

Few people know more about fish than Paul Johnson, whose Monterey Fish Market in San Francisco supplies seafood to some of the nation's most celebrated chefs, from Alice Waters, Thomas Keller, and Michael Mina to Todd English, Daniel Boulud, and Alain Ducasse. In Fish Forever, Johnson offers a cookbook for anyone who loves fish, but worries about overfishing, contaminants like mercury, and other serious health and ecological issues.

Fish Forever reveals which species of fish you should and shouldn't eat, based on how endangered, contaminated, and tasty they are. Plus, Johnson includes amazing recipes from around the world that take advantage of those most abundant and delicious types of fish.

  • Provides in-depth guidance on 70 fish species along with 96 international recipes that highlight the outstanding culinary qualities of the fish used
  • Includes more than 60 beautiful color photographs, as well as plenty of cooking tips and helpful sidebars
  • Winner of the coveted IACP Cookbook of the Year award

Fish Forever is a must-have kitchen resource for seafood lovers—and Earth lovers—everywhere.

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What People Are Saying

From the Publisher
"What Johnson doesn’t know about fish is, frankly, not worth knowing." (New York Times Book Review, December 2, 2007)
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Product Details

  • ISBN-13: 9781118169414
  • Publisher: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt
  • Publication date: 1/18/2012
  • Edition number: 1
  • Pages: 448
  • Sales rank: 525,672
  • Product dimensions: 7.90 (w) x 9.00 (h) x 1.30 (d)

Meet the Author

PAUL JOHNSON is one of the most celebrated historians of our time. He is the author of dozens of books, including Modern Times, History of the Modern World, and History of the Jews.

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Table of Contents

Acknowledgments ix

TIMES HAVE CHANGED 1

Good News, Bad News 1

Fish Tales 3

Wise Choices 3

From Market to Table with Confidence 5

FROM COOK TO FISHMONGER 7

South by Southeast:The Bering Sea Moves 9

Fish Alley 9

Monterey Fish 11

SELECTING, STORING, AND COOKING SEAFOOD 13

Selecting Fresh Seafood 13

Storing Fresh Seafood 14

Cooking Seafood 15

Seafood by the Seasons 18

Balancing Risk and Reward When Choosing Healthy Seafood 20

The Search for Sustainable Seafood 21

THE BASICS:
STOCKS, PREPARING WHOLE FISH, THE PANTRY, AND TOOLS 25

Stocks 25

Preparing Whole Fish for Cooking 31

The Pantry: Basic Ingredients and Techniques 34

Basic Tools 39

THE FISH 41

ANCHOVY 43

BLACK SEA BASS 50

BLUEFISH 55

BREAM 61

Atlantic Coast Scup 61

European Daurade 62

New Zealand Tai Snapper 62

BUTTERFISH 68

CATFISH 74

CLAM 80

Hard-Shelled Clams 81

Soft-Shelled Clams 83

COD 92

Atlantic Cod 92

Haddock 93

Hake or Whiting 93

Pollock 94

CRAB 104

Blue Crabs: Hard-Shell and Soft-Shell 104

Dungeness Crabs 106

Stone Crabs, King Crabs, and Snow Crabs 107

Crabmeat 107

CRAYFISH 121

CROAKER, AT LANTIC 127

DORY, JOHN 134

GROUPER 138

HALIBUT, CALIFORNIA 144

HALIBUT, PACIFIC 147

JACK 155

LOBSTER 163

American Lobster 163

Spiny Lobster 165

MACKEREL 176

MAHIMAHI 183

MONKFISH 188

MUSSEL 194

OCTOPUS 204

ONO 210

OPAH 213

OYSTER 217

American Oyster 218

European Flat Oyster 219

Kumamoto 219

Olympia Oyster 219

Pacific Oyster 219

Other Varieties 219

ROCKFISH 227

Category 1 228

Category 2 228

Category 3 229

SABLEFISH 234

SALMON, WILD 239

Chum (Keta) 241

Coho (Silver) 242

King (Chinook) 242

Pink 242

Sockeye (Red) 242

Steelhead 243

SANDDAB, PACIFIC 252

SARDINE 255

SCALLOP 262

Bay Scallops 262

Calico Scallops 263

Sea Scallops 263

SEAROBIN 270

SHAD 276

SHRIMP, COLD-WATER 281

SHRIMP, WARM-WATER 287

SKATE 296

SMELT 300

SNAPPER 303

SOLE: AMERICAN FLOUNDERS 310

Atlantic Flounders 311

Pacific Flounders 312

Other Flounders 312

SQUID 317

STRIPEDBASS, FARMED 326

STRIPEDBASS, WILD 331

STURGEON 339

SWORDFISH 348

TILAPIA 355

TROUT AND CHAR 360

TUNA 364

Bigeye 365

Bluefin, Atlantic 366

Bluefin, North Pacific 366

Yellowfin 366

TUNA, ALBACORE 377

WEAKFISH 384

WHELKS 389

Periwinkles 390

WHITE SEABASS 394

WRECKFISH 399

Health Appendix 402

OMEGA-3S AND MERCURY: ABALANCING ACT 402

RAW SEAFOOD: HOW TO STAY SAFE 408

GLOSSARY OF HEALTH AND SAFETY CONCERNS 411

PERSISTENT ORGANIC POLLUTANTS (POPS) 417

Fishing and Aquaculture Methods Appendix 418

Bibliography 424

Index 425

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Recipe

Braised Wreckfish with a Golden Pan Sauce and Red Pepper-Saffron Aïoli
Serves 4 as a Main Course

Braising wreckfish in turmeric and wine creates a golden pan sauce that is beautifully complemented by Red Pepper-Saffron Aïoli. Serve with parsleyed potatoes and green beans or a shaved fennel salad.

Four 5-ounce wreckfish fillets, skinned
1/3 cup ground turmeric mixed with
1 tablespoon kosher salt
2 tablespoons refined peanut oil or another high-heat oil for frying
2 tablespoons finely chopped onion
1 cup dry white wine
½ cup water or Fish Stock
1 tablespoon minced fresh chives or flat-leaf parsley
Red Pepper-Saffron Aïoli (recipe follows)

1. Roll the fillets of wreckfish in the turmeric mixture until well coated on all sides.

2. In a large, heavy ovenproof sauté pan or castiron skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Carefully lay the wreckfish fillets in the pan, skin-side up. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes, then turn the fillets over, add the onion, and cook for 1 minute, or until the onion is sizzling and beginning to turn brown. Add the white wine and water or stock and simmer gently for about 5 minutes, or until the fish is almost opaque throughout.

3. Transfer the fish to 4 plates. Add the chives or parsley to the juices in the pan and cook to reduce to about ½ cup. Taste and adjust the seasoning and spoon Red Pepper-Saffron Aïoli evenly over the fish.

Red Pepper-Saffron Aïoli
Makes 3/4 Cup

Large pinch of saffron threads
2 or 3 garlic cloves
¼ teaspoon coarse sea salt, plus more to taste
Pinch of cayenne pepper or hot paprika
1 large egg yolk
1 teaspoon warm water
3/8 cup olive oil
3/8 cup refined peanut or another mild-flavored oil
1 red bell pepper
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

1. In a small sauté pan or skillet over medium heat, toast the saffron threads until they begin to curl, about 1 minute. Using a mortar and pestle, grind the garlic, saffron threads, the ¼ teaspoon salt, and the cayenne or paprika to a smooth paste. Transfer the mixture to a bowl or a food processor. Add the egg yolk and water and whisk or process until smooth. While constantly whisking or with the machine running, gradually pour in the oils, starting with just a few drops at a time; as the sauce begins to thicken, add the remaining oil in a slow, fine stream. If the aïoli becomes too thick, thin with a bit of warm water.

2. Cut the sides off the red pepper and shred the flesh sides on the large holes of a box grater; discard the skin. Drain the red pepper flesh well in a sieve. Whisk the lemon juice, vinegar, and bell pepper into the aïoli and season with salt to taste. It can be stored for several days in a clean jar in the refrigerator.

Coriander-Crusted Tuna with Hot and Sweet Mango Salsa
Serves 4 as a Main Course

Tuna steaks, particularly from the lean yellowfin tuna, hold little excitement when they are cooked to doneness. In this recipe, the steaks are cooked until the coriander crust on the outside is just crisp and crunchy but the fish inside is still very rare—the best of both worlds.

3 tablespoons coriander seeds
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
Four 6-ounce tuna steaks, about 1 inch thick
Kosher salt for sprinkling
Grated zest of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons olive oil
Mango Salsa (recipe follows)

1. Using a mortar and pestle or spice grinder, coarsely crush the coriander, black peppercorns, and fennel seeds. Sprinkle the tuna on both sides with salt and lemon zest, and then sprinkle evenly with the crushed spices, pressing them into the flesh on both sides.

2. In a large cast-iron skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Lay the tuna in the pan and cook for 1 to 2 minutes on each side, or until the spices are lightly browned and crisp. Transfer to a cutting board to let rest for a minute or two, then cut into 3/8-inch-thick slices and fan across the plates. Serve Mango Salsa alongside.

Mango Salsa
Makes 1 Cup

Many varieties of mangoes come to market through spring and summer, and any of them will make a nice salsa for seafood. One of my favorites is the Ataulfo, an early-season variety that sometimes goes by the market name of champagne mango. These mangoes are smooth textured, with few fibers and a wonderful flavor. Mango salsa is delicious with salmon, halibut, yellowtail jacks or just about any other fish, lean or fat.

1 or 2 ripe mangoes, peeled, pitted, and cut into ¼-inch dice (about 1 cup)
2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro
1 tablespoon minced fresh mint
2 serrano or jalapeño chiles, seeded and minced
2 tablespoons finely chopped red bell pepper
Juice of 1 lime (about 2 tablespoons)
½ teaspoon kosher salt
In a small bowl, combine all the ingredients and stir well. Serve immediately and use it all; it won't keep well overnight.

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Sort by: Showing 1 Customer Reviews
  • Anonymous

    Posted May 2, 2008

    I'll love it more if...more meaningful fish pictures!!

    It's an informative book,with fisherman's years of experience, fish shopper's wisdom and fish-eater's passion. I especially love the beginning part of each chapter about the harvest season and other introduction of this kind of fish, a very professional introduction and a practical guidance for fish shopping , I will love it more if a lively and full-colored picture of that type of fish accompanied its introduction (it would be best if the picture was set when the fish is just out of the water, to show the regular looks of freshness which is rarely seen at market) . Actually, I find the fish pictures shown on some chapter are completely not the type which he is talking about, that's really missleading. In this poin of view, I feel very sad about this lovely book : ', it's so close to be perfect!

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