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Jean Anderson is a 1999 Inductee, Cookbook Hall of Fame, awarded by the James Beard Foundation.
This Madeira specialty, now popular all over mainland Portugal, demonstrates the unusual Portuguese method of boiling meat before browning it. It's a procedure alien to Americans who are accustomed to browning the meat first and then cooking it in liquid. But the Portuguese reverse technique works equally well. Note: The pork is first marinated for 2 or 3 days.
Makes 6 servings
3 pounds boned pork loin, trimmed of excess fat and sliced 1/2-inch thick
1 bottle (750 ml) vinho verde or other dry white wine
1 cup cider vinegar
4 large bay leaves (do not crumble)
1/2 teaspoon crumbled leaf marjoram
6 whole cloves
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 large garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
1 long slim loaf of French or Italian bread, sliced about 1-inch thick
4 tablespoons olive oil
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
Garnishes:1 medium navel orange, sliced thin (rind and all) 4 or 5 sprigs watercress
Layer the pork in a large ceramic bowl; add the wine, vinegar, bay leaves, marjoram, cloves, salt, pepper, and garlic. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator 2 to 3 days, turning the pork often in the marinade.
When ready to cook the pork, transfer it to a large heavy skillet (not iron), add the marinade, cover, and simmer over low heat 1/2 hour; drain the pork on paper toweling. Quickly moisten the bread slices by touching each side to the surface of the hot marinade; spread on paper toweling and let dry. Raise the heat under the marinade so that itbubbles gently, and boll uncovered to reduce while you proceed with the recipe.
In a second large heavy skillet, brown each pork slice lightly on both sides in 2 tablespoons each olive oil and butter over moderately high heat. Note: You may think that these cooked pork slices will not brown, but they will — nicely. Remove to a heated plate and keep warm.
Quickly brown the bread on both sides in the skillet drippings, adding more oil and butter as needed. Drain on paper toweling.
To serve, arrange the slices of bread on a platter, top with overlapping slices of pork, then spoon some of the reduced marinade on top. Garnish with orange slices and watercress. Pour the remaining marinade into a sauceboat and pass separately.
Tavira, a whitewashed cubistic village on the Algarve's south coast, is the "Tuna Capital" of Portugal. Until recently, schools of the big fish swam not far offshore, but supplies are now so depleted that the tuna fishermen must sail far into the Atlantic for their catch-sometimes as far as the Azores or Madeira. This old Algarve recipe and the one that follows prove just how delicious fresh tuna can be. Note: Because the tuna steaks are marinated overnight in the refrigerator, you must begin this recipe the day before you plan to seve it.
Makes 4 servings
1 large garlic clove, peeled and quartered
1 teaspoon kosher or coarse salt
1/2 cup chopped fresh coriander or mint
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup olive oil
2 pounds fresh boneless tuna, cut into 4 steaks about 3/4-inch thick
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 tablespoons lemon juice
Using a mortar and pestle, pound the garlic, salt, 2 tablespoons of the coriander, and the pepper to a paste; blend in I tablespoon of the olive oil. Rub the mixture on both sides of each tuna steak and lay the steaks in a 9 x 9x 2-inch baking dish. Mix 2 tablespoons of the remaining coriander with 1/4 cup of the remaining oil, the wine, and lemon juice. Pour evenly over the tuna, cover, and marinate in the refrigerator for 24 hours.
When ready to cook, heat the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large heavy skillet over high heat until ripples appear on the skillet bottom; add the tuna and brown about 3 minutes on each side, keeping the heat high. Meanwhile, strain the marinade, warm in a small saucepan over moderate heat, and stir in the remaining 1/4 cup chopped coriander. Serve sizzling hot with a little of the hot marinade spooned over each portion. Accompany with sun-ripened tomatoes, cut into wedges or rounds, and crisp slices of cucumber — both drizzled with olive oil and vinegar.
Bifes de Atum Grelhado A Maneira de Tavira (Grilled Tuna Steaks Tavira Style): In little waterfront tascas (bistros) all along the Algarve coast you'll smell fresh tuna grilling over white-hot coals of oak. Sometimes fishermen improvise grills on the beach and cook their catch right there, to the fascination of tourists, some of whom are lucky enough to be offered samples together with chunks of rough Portuguese bread. To grill the tuna steaks, rub them with the garlic — coriander paste and marinate in the refrigerator as directed. When ready to cook, make a hot charcoal fire, and when it bums down, leaving coals covered with white ash, adjust the grill so that it is about 6 inches above the coals. Brush the tuna steaks well with the marinade. Strain the remaining marinade into a little saucepan and set to one side of the grill so that it will heat as the tuna grills. Grill the tuna 3 to 4 minutes on each side, brushing often with the marinade, just until cooked through. Stir the remaining chopped coriander into the marinade, top each portion with a generous spoonful of it, and serve.
The Food of Portugal. Copyright © by Jean Anderson. Reprinted by permission of HarperCollins Publishers, Inc. All rights reserved. Available now wherever books are sold.
Posted November 16, 2006
The recipes seem to be more restaurant-fussy type recipes and not family recipes. Too many recipes have tomatoes, potatoes, and bay leaves as ingredients. The portuguese larder is far more extensive due to world traveling than the author portrays. A BIG MINUS is the Author was not aware that portuguese sausages (linguica and chourica) are easily available in the U.S. If you're not in a New England grocery store, use a search engine, I know of 3 companies (with a mail-order and Internet) that produce these sausages. The author's substitution of these sausages does not give the same flavor to any recipe. Try making venison stew with beef, it is not the same. And lastly, having ONE recipe for Caldo Verde is like an american cookbook with one recipe for clam chowder.
1 out of 1 people found this review helpful.Was this review helpful? Yes NoThank you for your feedback. Report this reviewThank you, this review has been flagged.
Posted November 2, 2013
Posted October 20, 2004
Complicated recipies that don't come out the way a Portuguese person knows they should. Other recipies for the same dishes are easier to follow with better results!Was this review helpful? Yes NoThank you for your feedback. Report this reviewThank you, this review has been flagged.
Posted August 12, 2002
A great book that teach you not only about the food but the culture od Portugal. I have had this book for years and have purchase at least 5 copies as gifts! The food is authentic and the author provides great suggestions for substitutions.Was this review helpful? Yes NoThank you for your feedback. Report this reviewThank you, this review has been flagged.
Posted December 2, 2000
Living in Portugal for the past two years, I generally have tasted the same dishes in Jean Andersen's cookbook, prepared the authentic way. With her book, I have been able to prepare those same dishes as if I'd been doing so all my life.Was this review helpful? Yes NoThank you for your feedback. Report this reviewThank you, this review has been flagged.
Posted July 21, 2000
The Food Portugal by Jane Anderson is excellent! I really enjoyed it and the recipes are easy. I really like that she gives substitutions for ingredients, so you do not have to run out to the super market every time you decide to use a recipe. I highly recommend this book, and the food is delicious!!!Was this review helpful? Yes NoThank you for your feedback. Report this reviewThank you, this review has been flagged.