Read an Excerpt
Food Truck Road Trip: A Cookbook
More than 100 Recipes Collected from the Best Street Food Vendors Coast to Coast
By Kim Pham, Philip Shen, Terri Phillips Page Street Publishing Co.
Copyright © 2014 Kim Pham, Philip Shen with Terri Phillips
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-1-62414-087-7
CHAPTER 1
AMERICAN COMFORT: CLASSICS WITH A TWIST
When we were first approached to do a book, we knew we wanted to do something on a national scale. Maybe we were overly ambitious, but because you're reading this now, maybe we pulled it off. The one common theme we saw as we looked across the country planning our book was that a lot of carts and trucks are focused on dishing out some form of American comfort food. Whether it is a spin on a burger or fried chicken, these are familiar foods that tug at people's hearts.
As we brainstormed, we found it hard to just narrow our focus to American comfort food. Comfort food means something different to so many people across America. A kid like me growing up in LA thinks of burritos, and a kid growing up for Louisiana finds comfort in gumbo. And as a second-generation Asian-American, I grew up shunning my culture for fear of not being seen as a "real" American. It's taken me a long time, but now I miss some of those Taiwanese dishes that I ate as a kid and have accepted them as part of my comfort food repertoire.
We can endlessly debate the definition of "American food," but this chapter pays homage to our initial concept. It's about those classic dishes that you think of, with a twist. Whether it's barbecued pulled pork in a taco from Hill Country Barbecue in Redwood City, California, or a French toast breakfast sandwich from the Egg Carton in Portland, Oregon, these are recipes that will remind you of some of your favorite comfort foods. It doesn't matter what we label it — we just want these dishes to put a smile on your face.
THE URBAN OVEN — SCOTT TREMONTI
LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA
Chef Scott Tremonti blames his single-minded pursuit of wood-fired pizza perfection on a pie from Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix, Arizona. "I had good pizza before, but when you had Chris Bianco's pizza, it was almost like a religious experience," he says. "That was my first experience with a wood-fired oven." Having had an authentic, artisanal, Napoli-style pizza, Scott couldn't go back.
After moving to Seattle, Scott began to experiment with recipes to re-create the experience, going so far as to jimmy the lock on his home oven during the cleaning cycle to reach that elusive 800°F (427°C) temperature. He eventually purchased a wood-fired oven and spent a couple of years baking pizzas for a group of very lucky friends before starting his own food truck, The Urban Oven.
Now, The Urban Oven can be found roaming the streets of LA, bringing perfectly charred crusts, high-quality ingredients and an authentic experience to the masses. "It starts with the crust," Scott explains. "The crust is everything. That, to me, is the foundation. You talk to people that have had an experience with pizza, they always talk about the crust first. It's your canvas, it's where you start, it's 90 percent of your whole experience." Scott ferments his dough for no fewer than 24 hours, and he's careful not to overhandle it to create a light, airy, crispy dough perfect for showcasing the locally sourced, well-balanced toppings, such as the unexpected but delightful combination of prosciutto and grape.
PROSCIUTTO AND GRAPE PIZZA
THE URBAN OVEN — SCOTT TREMONTI — LOS ANGELES, CA
MAKES TWO 14" (35.6CM) PIZZAS
"For me, balance is really important," Scott Tremonti explains. "I do a lot of pizzas with the sweet and savories." This pizza, with buttery fontina cheese, sweet caramelized grapes and slightly bitter rosemary, perfectly captures Scott's ideal of balance.
BASIC DOUGH (MAKES 2)
2 tsp (6g) yeast (we use Fleischmann's yeast)
1 cup (236ml) lukewarm water
2 tsp (10g) salt
1 ¾ cups (174g) flour
1 cup (130g) fontina cheese
12 red grapes, halved
1 tsp rosemary
2 tbsp (30ml) olive oil
8 slices prosciutto crudo, thinly sliced
To make the dough, in a mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, combine the yeast and water and mix on low speed for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, combine the salt and flour in a separate bowl.
When the yeast has dissolved, add one-third of the flour and salt mixture and mix on low speed until incorporated. Stop the mixer and scrape the sides of the bowl. Add another one-third of the flour mixture to the bowl and once it has been incorporated, mix on high speed for 30 seconds. Stop the mixer and scrape the sides of the bowl. Add the remaining flour mixture and mix on medium speed until combined. The dough should be sticky, but not lumpy.
Transfer the dough to a floured, airtight container and allow it to rise for 24 hours. The dough will double in size, so be sure to use a large container.
After the dough has risen, transfer it to a lightly floured surface and divide in half. Roll each half into a ball, cover and allow it to rise at room temperature for 2 hours.
Preheat the oven broiler to high and place 2 baking stones in the oven for 1 hour. When the dough is ready, flatten each ball of dough one at a time on a lightly floured work surface into a 14-inch (35.6cm) round, taking care to preserve a 1-inch (2.5cm) lip around the edge. Place each dough circle on a baking stone.
Sprinkle half the fontina, grapes and rosemary on each pizza and drizzle half the olive oil on top. Place the pizzas in the oven and bake for 5 to 6 minutes. The edge of the crust should begin to puff up and you'll notice small dark brown spots begin to form on the bottom, also known as "leoparding." The cheese should also be melted. When the crust has achieved the desired browning and the pizza feels firm on the peel, it's ready to remove from the oven.
Remove the pizzas from the oven and top with half the prosciutto crudo, then slice and serve.
BACON AND SWEET ONION PIZZA
THE URBAN OVEN — SCOTT TREMONTI — LOS ANGELES, CA
MAKES TWO 14" (35.6CM) PIZZAS
"It's all about creating an experience around eating the food," says Scott. We think every bite of this pizza is an event in itself. Savory applewood-smoked bacon and sweet onion harmonize perfectly for a pizza that seems simple on the surface, but has a sophisticated depth of flavor.
BASIC DOUGH (MAKES 2)
2 tsp (6g) yeast (we use Fleischmann's yeast)
1 cup (236ml) lukewarm water
2 tsp (10g) salt
1 ¾ cups (174g) flour
½ cup (118ml) pomodoro sauce
2/3 cup (86g) mozzarella
6 strips applewood-smoked bacon, cooked
½ cup (32g) sliced sweet onion
To make the dough, in a mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, combine the yeast and water and mix on low speed for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, combine the salt and flour in a separate bowl.
When the yeast has dissolved, add one-third of the flour and salt mixture and mix on low speed until incorporated. Stop the mixer and scrape the sides of the bowl. Add another one-third of the flour mixture to bowl and once it has been incorporated, mix on high speed for 30 seconds. Stop the mixer and scrape the sides of the bowl. Add the remaining flour mixture and mix on medium speed until combined. The dough should be sticky, but not lumpy.
Transfer the dough to a floured, airtight container and allow it to rise for 24 hours. The dough will double in size, so be sure to use a large container.
After the dough has risen, transfer it to a lightly floured surface and divide in half. Roll each half into a ball, cover and allow it to rise at room temperature for 2 hours.
Preheat the oven broiler to high and place 2 baking stones in the oven for 1 hour. When the dough is ready to use, flatten each ball of dough one at a time on a lightly floured work surface into a 14-inch (35.6cm) round, taking care to preserve a 1-inch (2.5cm) lip around the edge. Place each dough circle on a baking stone.
Pour half the pomodoro sauce in the center of each pizza crust and, using the back of a ladle, spread in a circular motion until the crust is lightly covered, leaving 1 to 1 ½ inches (2.5 to 3.8cm) clear at the edge. Sprinkle with half the mozzarella, bacon and sweet onion on top.
Place the pizzas in the oven and bake for 5 to 6 minutes. The edge of the crust should begin to puff up and you'll notice small dark brown spots begin to form on the bottom, also known as "leoparding." The cheese should also be melted. When the crust has achieved the desired browning and the pizza feels firm on the peel, it's ready. Remove from the oven, slice and serve.
JALAPEÑO CORN CAKES
BIG D'S GRUB TRUCK — DENNIS KUM — NEW YORK, NY
MAKES 12 CORN CAKES
Dennis of Big D's Grub Truck in New York started his culinary career at the tender age of nine, mostly because he wasn't too fond of what his mom was cooking. But there is one particular dish that brings up happy childhood memories, jalapeño corn cakes. "This was a recipe I got from my friend's grandmother," he recalls. "She used to cook it for us when we were growing up, and I loved it." With a hint of sweetness, these corn cakes are good enough to be enjoyed alone or with eggs for what Dennis describes as a well-rounded breakfast. These cakes have a subtle sweetness to them, so no syrup required.
¾ cup (75g) flour
1/3 cup (33g) masa
1/3 cup (57g) cornmeal
¼ cup (48g) sugar
1 tbsp (12g) baking powder
Pinch of salt
1 cup (237ml) milk
2 eggs
¼ cup (59ml) oil
1 cup (151g) corn, frozen and thawed or canned and drained
2/3 cup (114g) canned, chopped jalapeños
In a large bowl, combine the flour, masa, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder and salt. Blend the milk, eggs and oil in a separate small bowl. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry and mix with a large spoon until incorporated. Do not overmix (lumps are okay). Fold in the corn and jalapeños.
Heat a large, lightly oiled griddle over medium heat. After the griddle is hot, pour 1/3 cup (80g) of the mixture on at a time. Brown for 1 or 2 minutes on each side. If the cakes are browning too fast, turn down the heat a little.
Place the corn cakes on a towel-lined plate and cover with an additional towel to keep warm.
FOPO CRISTO
THE EGG CARTON — SARAH ARKWRIGHT — PORTLAND, OR
MAKES 2 SANDWICHES
Portland is a city of brunchers. In that bewitching hour between breakfast and lunch, every restaurant serving brunch features long lines of hungry citizens. The Egg Carton prides itself on making a damn good brunch. Sarah and Tim Arkwright — a server-turned-lawyer and a former teacher with a retail background — recommends the FoPo Cristo: French toast with fried egg, Cheddar cheese, Canadian bacon, sweet and spicy mustard and strawberry jam.
FRENCH TOAST BATTER
3 large eggs
½ cup (118ml) half-and-half
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 tsp pumpkin pie spice
Pinch of salt
1 tbsp (14g) unsalted butter
4 slices Texas toast bread
1 tsp sweet and spicy mustard (we use Beaver)
2 tbsp (31g) strawberry jam
2 slices medium Cheddar cheese
(we use Tillamook)
4 slices bacon, cooked
6 slices Canadian bacon, cooked
2 eggs, cooked over-easy
Powdered sugar, for serving
To make the French toast batter, lightly whisk the eggs in a large bowl until the yolks are incorporated. Add the half-and-half, vanilla, pumpkin pie spice and a pinch of salt and whisk until blended. Pour the batter into a container with a flat bottom large enough to soak the Texas toast.
Heat a large griddle over medium-high heat. Place the butter on the griddle. Let it melt and cover the surface.
Dunk each slice of Texas toast into the French toast batter. Let each slice sit in the batter for about 10 seconds to soak up the liquid, then place each slice on the hot griddle.
Let the toast cook for 1 to 2 minutes, or until browned. The texture of the browned side should be slightly firm, not soggy. Flip the bread and brown the same way on the other side and set aside.
To assemble the sandwich, put ½ teaspoon of the mustard on 2 slices of the French toast. Then add 1 tablespoon (15g) of the jam on top of the mustard. Complete each sandwich with 1 slice of cheese, 2 slices of bacon, 3 slices of Canadian bacon and 1 over-easy egg, and top with the remaining French toast. Sprinkle with the powdered sugar. Things could get messy, so serve with a knife and fork.
THE GOOD MORNING
FRENCHEEZE FOOD TRUCK — JASON ROBINSON KING — NEW ORLEANS, LA
MAKES 2 SANDWICHES
Although Jason King's New Orleans–based truck Frencheeze specializes in grilled cheese, it's got a firm handle on another quintessential comfort food: French toast. With mascarpone, Nutella and syrup-infused strawberries, this French toast starts your day with a dash of true decadence. It'll be a good morning indeed.
1 pint (300g) strawberries
1 ½ cups (355ml) maple syrup
4 eggs
2/3 cup (158ml) milk
2 tsp (5g) cinnamon
2 tsp (4g) freshly grated orange zest (optional)
¼ cup (59ml) Triple Sec
(optional)
4 thick slices 2-day-old bread,
better if slightly stale
8 tbsp (115g) butter
8 tbsp (115g) Nutella
½ cup (115g) mascarpone cheese
1 tbsp (15g) raw sugar, for garnish
To make the syrup-infused strawberries, soak the strawberries in the maple syrup, in a bowl, at room temperature for 30 to 45 minutes or in the refrigerator overnight.
In a bowl, beat the eggs, milk and cinnamon together. Add the orange zest and Triple Sec. Whisk until well blended. Pour into a shallow bowl. Dip each slice of bread into the egg mixture, allowing the bread to soak up some of the mixture.
Melt 1 tablespoon (15g) of butter per slice of bread in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add as many slices of bread on the skillet as will fit. Fry for 3 to 4 minutes, until brown on both sides, flipping the bread when necessary.
Spread half the Nutella on the bottom piece of French toast. Spread half the mascarpone on the top piece of toast. Place half the strawberries along with some of the syrup on the bottom piece of toast and add the top slice, mascarpone side facing in. Sprinkle raw sugar on the top piece of toast and crystallize with a hand torch. Repeat for the second sandwich.
BISCUITS WITH COUNTRY SAUSAGE GRAVY
PIE PUSHERS — MIKE HACKER — DURHAM, NC
SERVES 8 TO 10
We honestly can't think of anything more comforting than fluffy, freshly baked biscuits slathered in a thick sausage gravy. Mike and Becky of Pie Pushers in North Carolina staunchly refuse to ever use packaged gravy and try to get ingredients as close to home as possible. "When people are used to eating biscuits and gravy from a truck stop or diner, they have this canned food mentality. When they have one of ours, it changes everything."
BISCUITS
1 ½ lb (680g) self-rising flour,
plus more for dusting
1 tbsp (12g) sugar
1 tsp baking powder
½ tsp baking soda
½ lb (227g) butter, diced
2 cups (473ml) buttermilk
COUNTRY SAUSAGE GRAVY
1 lb (453g) local sausage (we prefer Durham's own Firsthand Foods' local country sausage)
1 cup (151g) diced yellow onion
1 tbsp (10g) minced garlic
1 tsp red pepper flakes
1 tsp dried thyme
½ cup (50g) all-purpose flour
3 cups (710ml) whipping cream
Salt and pepper to taste
To make the biscuits, combine the self-rising flour, sugar, baking powder and baking soda in the bowl of a food processor. While the processor is mixing, slowly add the butter until there is an even and coarse consistency.
Transfer the flour and butter mixture to a large mixing bowl and add the buttermilk. With your hands, mix together just until combined. Be careful not to overmix.
Turn out the dough onto a countertop dusted with flour. With a rolling pin, roll the dough out to 1-inch (2.5cm) thickness. With a round biscuit cutter, cut biscuits by applying pressure on the cutter, straight down. Do not twist the cutter while pressing down, which prevents the biscuits from rising properly during the baking process. Place the biscuits on a baking sheet and put in the refrigerator for 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 425°F (218°C). Remove the biscuits from the refrigerator and immediately place them into the preheated oven; bake until golden brown, 20 to 30 minutes. Transfer to a cooling rack.
To make the gravy, fry the sausage in a heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. When the sausage is nearly cooked through, add the onion and cook until translucent.
Stir in the garlic, red pepper flakes and thyme. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the all-purpose flour and stir well until the clumps are completely gone. You are looking for a pasty, meaty consistency. Let cook for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Add the cream and reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook until the gravy thickens, 15 to 20 minutes. Remember to stir every couple of minutes to keep the sausage from sticking to the bottom of the pot. Add salt and pepper to taste.
Pour the gravy on top of the hot biscuits and enjoy.
(Continues...)
Excerpted from Food Truck Road Trip: A Cookbook by Kim Pham, Philip Shen, Terri Phillips. Copyright © 2014 Kim Pham, Philip Shen with Terri Phillips. Excerpted by permission of Page Street Publishing Co..
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