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Mary RoachAdam Leith Gollner possesses a talent as rare and exotic as a coconut pearl. I opened this book, Gollner's first, expecting the standard nutmeat of competent nonfiction and found instead something lustrous and exhilarating. Gollner's is not the sort of talent one can develop. It is genetic, physical—an exquisite sensitivity of tongue, nose and eye…At one point early in the book, the author explains how it's possible to graft branches of different, say, citrus species onto one plant. A Chilean farmer, he writes, recently made headlines with a tree that bears plums, peaches, cherries, apricots, almonds and nectarines. It's how I see Gollner: the talents of a food writer, investigative journalist, poet, travel writer and humorist grafted onto one unusual specimen. Long may he thrive.
—The New York Times