Gastropolis: Food and New York City

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Overview

Whether you're digging into a slice of cherry cheesecake, burning your tongue on a piece of fiery Jamaican jerk chicken, or slurping the broth from a juicy soup dumpling, eating in New York City is a culinary adventure unlike any other in the world.

An irresistible sampling of the city's rich food heritage, Gastropolis explores the personal and historical relationship between New Yorkers and food. Beginning with the origins of cuisine combinations, such as Mt. Olympus bagels and Puerto Rican lasagna, the book describes the nature of food and drink before the arrival of Europeans in 1624 and offers a history of early farming practices. Essays trace the function of place and memory in Asian cuisine, the rise of Jewish food icons, the evolution of food enterprises in Harlem, the relationship between restaurant dining and identity, and the role of peddlers and markets in guiding the ingredients of our meals. They share spice-scented recollections of Brooklyn, Queens, and the Bronx, and colorful vignettes of the avant-garde chefs, entrepreneurs, and patrons who continue to influence the way New Yorkers eat.

Touching on everything from religion, nutrition, and agriculture to economics, politics, and psychology, Gastropolis tells a story of immigration, amalgamation, and assimilation. This rich interplay between tradition and change, individual and society, and identity and community could happen only in New York.

Columbia University Press

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Editorial Reviews

Frederick Kaufman
While New York may be the subject of more food writing than any other site in the United States, this volume will surprise, enchant, and enlighten. The collection shines.
New York Times - Sam Roberts
A veritable feast.
Eats.com
Gastropolis is a fun read, specifically for those who have watched their culture rise and blossom in this great variegated city.
New York Times
A veritable feast.

— Sam Roberts

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Product Details

Meet the Author

Annie S. Hauck-Lawson is president of the Association for the Study of Food and Society, a registered dietitian, associate professor of foods and nutrition at Brooklyn College (ret.) and creator and Master Composter of Brooklyn Mompost. Jonathan Deutsch is associate professor of culinary arts at Kingsborough Community College and of public health at the Graduate Center of the City University of New York. He is the author, with Sarah Billingsley, of Culinary Improvisation.Michael Lomonaco is a restaurateur, chef, cookbook author, television host, teacher, and regular contributor to Gourmet, Food & Wine, Bon Appetit, New York Magazine, the New York Times, and Travel & Leisure.

Columbia University Press

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Table of Contents

PrefaceAcknowledgmentsFusion City: From Mt. Olympus Bagels to Puerto Rican Lasagna and BeyondCara De Silva

Part I. Places1. The Lenapes: In Search of Pre-European Foodways in the Greater New York RegionAnne Mendelson1. The Food and Drink of New York from 1624 to 1898Andrew F. Smith3. Digging for Food in Early New York CityNan A. Rothschild4. My Little Town: A Brooklyn Girl's Food VoiceAnnie Hauck-Lawson

Part II. People5. The Empire of Food: Place, Memory, and Asian "Ethnic Cuisines"Martin F. Manalansan IV6. The Culinary Seasons of My ChildhoodJessica B. Harris7. The Chefs, the Entrepreneurs, and Their Patrons: The Avant-Garde Food Scene in New York CityFabio Parasecoli8. Chow Fun City: Three Centuries of Chinese Cuisine in New York CityHarley Spiller

Part III. Trade9. Hawkers and Gawkers: Peddling and Markets in New York CitySuzanne Wasserman10. Asphalt TerroirJoy Santlofer11. The Soul of a StoreMark Russ Federman12. Livin' la Vida Sabrosa: Savoring Latino New YorkRamona Lee Pérez and Babette Audant

Part IV. Symbols13. Cosa Mangia OggiAnnie Rachelle Lanzillotto14. From the Big Bagel to the Big Roti? The Evolution of New York City's Jewish Food IconsJennifer Berg15. Cooking Up Heritage in HarlemDamian M. Mosley16. Eating Out, Eating American: New York Restaurant Dining and IdentityMitchell Davis17. Hungry CityJanet Poppendieck and JC DwyerContributorsIndex

Columbia University Press

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