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Overview

Whether you're digging into a slice of cherry cheesecake, burning your tongue on a piece of fiery Jamaican jerk chicken, or slurping the broth from a juicy soup dumpling, eating in New York City is a culinary adventure unlike any other in the world.

An irresistible sampling of the city's rich food heritage, Gastropolis explores the personal and historical relationship between New Yorkers and food. Beginning with the origins of cuisine combinations, such as Mt. Olympus bagels and...

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Gastropolis: Food and New York City

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Overview

Whether you're digging into a slice of cherry cheesecake, burning your tongue on a piece of fiery Jamaican jerk chicken, or slurping the broth from a juicy soup dumpling, eating in New York City is a culinary adventure unlike any other in the world.

An irresistible sampling of the city's rich food heritage, Gastropolis explores the personal and historical relationship between New Yorkers and food. Beginning with the origins of cuisine combinations, such as Mt. Olympus bagels and Puerto Rican lasagna, the book describes the nature of food and drink before the arrival of Europeans in 1624 and offers a history of early farming practices. Essays trace the function of place and memory in Asian cuisine, the rise of Jewish food icons, the evolution of food enterprises in Harlem, the relationship between restaurant dining and identity, and the role of peddlers and markets in guiding the ingredients of our meals. They share spice-scented recollections of Brooklyn, Queens, and the Bronx, and colorful vignettes of the avant-garde chefs, entrepreneurs, and patrons who continue to influence the way New Yorkers eat.

Touching on everything from religion, nutrition, and agriculture to economics, politics, and psychology, Gastropolis tells a story of immigration, amalgamation, and assimilation. This rich interplay between tradition and change, individual and society, and identity and community could happen only in New York.

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Editorial Reviews

Frederick Kaufman

While New York may be the subject of more food writing than any other site in the United States, this volume will surprise, enchant, and enlighten. The collection shines.

New York Times - Sam Roberts

A veritable feast.

Eats.com

Gastropolis is a fun read, specifically for those who have watched their culture rise and blossom in this great variegated city.

New York Times
A veritable feast.

— Sam Roberts

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Product Details

Meet the Author

Annie S. Hauck-Lawson is associate professor of foods and nutrition at Brooklyn College and the president of the Association for the Study of Food and Society. She curated the foodways component of the 2001 Smithsonian Folklife Festival's New York City program and is a Park Slope native whose life has revolved around food in New York. She is a master composter and, with her family, continues to live, work, study, grow, and compost food in Brooklyn.

Jonathan Deutsch is associate professor of culinary arts at Kingsborough Community College and of public health at the Graduate Center of the City University of New York. He is the author, with Sarah Billingsley, of Culinary Improvisation.

Michael Lomonaco is a restaurateur, chef, cookbook author, television host, teacher, and regular contributor to Gourmet, Food & Wine, Bon Appetit, New York Magazine, the New York Times, and Travel & Leisure.

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Table of Contents


Foreword Michael Lomonaco Lomonaco, Michael Fusion City: From Mt. Olympus Bagels to Puerto Rican Lasagna and Beyond Cara De Silva De Silva, Cara 1 Pt. I Places
1 The Lenapes: In Search of Pre-European Foodways in the Greater New York Region Anne Mendelson Mendelson, Anne 15
2 The Food and Drink of New York from 1624 to 1898 Andrew F. Smith Smith, Andrew F. 34
3 Digging for Food in Early New York City Nan A. Rothschild Rothschild, Nan A. 50
4 My Little Town: A Brooklyn Girl's Food Voice Annie Hauck-Lawson Hauck-Lawson, Annie 68 Pt. II People
5 The Empire of Food: Place, Memory, and Asian "Ethnic Cuisines" Martin F. Manalansan IV Manalansan, Martin F., IV 93
6 The Culinary Seasons of My Childhood Jessica B. Harris Harris, Jessica B. 108
7 The Chefs, the Entrepreneurs, and Their Patrons: The Avant-Garde Food Scene in New York City Fabio Parasecoli Parasecoli, Fabio 116
8 Chow Fun City: Three Centuries of Chinese Cuisine in New York City Harley Spiller Spiller, Harley 132 Pt. III Trade
9 Hawkers and Gawkers: Peddling and Markets in New York City Suzanne Wasserman Wasserman, Suzanne 153
10 Asphalt Terroir Joy Santlofer Santlofer, Joy 174
11 The Soul of a Store Mark Russ Federman Federman, Mark Russ 195
12 Livin' la Vida Sabrosa: Savoring Latino New York Ramona Lee Perez Perez, Ramona Lee Babette Audant Audant, Babette 209 Pt. IV Symbols
13 Cosa Mangia Oggi Annie Rachelle Lanzillotto Lanzillotto, Annie Rachelle 233
14 From the Big Bagel to the Big Roti? The Evolution of New York City's Jewish Food Icons Jennifer Berg Berg, Jennifer 252
15 Cooking Up Heritage in Harlem Damian M. Mosley Mosley, Damian M. 274
16Eating Out, Eating American: New York Restaurant Dining and Identity Mitchell Davis Davis, Mitchell 293
17 Hungry City Janet Poppendieck Poppendieck, Janet J. C. Dwyer Dwyer, J. C. 308 Contributors 327 Index 331
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