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Georges Perrier le Bec-Fin Recipes

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An upscale user-friendly collection of some of Le Bec-Fin's most famous haute-cusine dishes as well as some newer recipes. 120 recipes for both classic French cusine and Bistro cooking are contained in this book.

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1997 Hardcover Good Connecting readers with great books since 1972. Used books may not include companion materials, some shelf wear, may contain highlighting/notes, and may not ... include cd-rom or access codes. Customer service is our top priority! Read more Show Less

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Philadelphia, PA 1997 Hard cover Third printing Fine in fine dust jacket. 224 p. : ill. (some col. ); 29 cm. Includes Illustrations. Includes index.

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Overview

An upscale user-friendly collection of some of Le Bec-Fin's most famous haute-cusine dishes as well as some newer recipes. 120 recipes for both classic French cusine and Bistro cooking are contained in this book.

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Editorial Reviews

From Barnes & Noble
A Class with Legendary French Chef Georges Perrier

Georges Perrier has made his reputation as one of the finest chefs in the country by serving exquisite French food, created using classical techniques and innovative ingredients, for the past 25 years at Le Bec-Fin. This temple of haute cuisine is considered by such authorities as the readers of Gourmet magazine and the editors of the Mobil Travel Guide to be the best restaurant in Philadelphia, and among the best in the country.

Perrier fits to a tee the stereotypical image of the French chef: He is by turns imperious, charming, hilarious, and demanding, and his powerful personality is projected, often at great volume, from a rather compact frame, which he uses to gesture energetically as he holds forth in his thick French accent. He came to the cooking school De Gustibus at Macy's this fall to demonstrate recipes from his spectacular new book, Le Bec-Fin Recipes, in a class that proved to be enlightening, entertaining, and deeply decadent.

About Georges Perrier and Le Bec-Fin Recipes

A native of Lyons, France, Perrier began cooking professionally at age 15. After training in the kitchens of some of the great French restaurants of the time, including the legendary L'Oustau de Baumanière in Provence, he made the transatlantic move to Philadelphia to head the kitchen at Peter von Starck's La Panetière. Three years later, in 1970, Perrier opened Le Bec-Fin, and he has been winning awards nearly every year since.

To the delight of the many loyal fans of Le Bec-Fin, Perrier has finally commited the signature dishes he serves at the restaurant to paper. Le Bec-Fin Recipes is nearly as gorgeous as the restaurant itself, filled with full-page color photographs of the elegantly plated dishes, along with dozens of black-and-white shots of the behind-the-scenes action in the kitchen. In a substantial introduction, Perrier tells the engaging story of his roots, his early career and his successes at Le Bec-Fin, and his culinary philosophy and sources of inspiration. Many of the recipes are demanding, but in this case it's a strength—too many chef's cookbooks are disappointing because the recipes are oversimplified and the dishes aren't much like the ones readers know and love from the restaurant. But neither is Le Bec-Fin Recipes filled with techniques that are impossible to follow without professional equipment, and the dishes are never needlessly complex. "You have to keep the dishes as simple as you can to make sure the flavor you want comes through—if you try to make it too complicated, it never works out," Perrier says. Luxurious ingredients abound in beautifully composed salads, delicate soups, elegant fish dishes, rich meat and chicken entrées, and spectacular desserts. A section at the end, "Le Cuisine de Bistro," features somewhat more casual but equally appealing dishes, including bistro classics like tarte Tatin and mussels in white-wine sauce, in this case enlivened with curry. This is not a book for cooks shy about using great lashings of butter and cream, but if you're ever going to splurge, this is the way to do it.

About the Menu

Perrier started off with a fricassee of succulent, sweet shrimp. Sautéed briefly with a bit of garlic ("Promise me you will not burn the garlic," Perrier says with a laugh. "It gives the dish a bad flavor") and served with a simple, buttery tomato sauce, the flavors of the shrimp were clear and bright. The one challenging step: Perrier dramatically flambéed the brandy and vermouth in the sauce. He assured the impressed audience that though the wines need to cook to get rid of the alcohol and acidity and concentrate the sugars, the flambé is not strictly necessary. At Le Bec-Fin, Perrier usually serves the dish accompanied by mashed potatoes. With the shrimp we drank a wonderfully light but oaky bubbling white wine from Tattinger's Domaine Carneros in the Napa Valley. After the shrimp came a sautéed filet of sea bass that wowed the audience. Perrier says he is very inspired by Japanese and Chinese cuisines, and he uses Asian flavors and techniques to delicious advantage in this dish. The fish is marinated in soy sauce and white wine with a bit of ginger and cooked with the skin on. Perrier served it with a truly revelatory sauce: a mixture of balsamic vinegar, beurre noisette (butter clarified and cooked until it takes on a deep brown color and enticingly nutty flavor), soy sauce, lime juice, and Moroccan preserved lemons. The audience agreed that the sauce—sharp, sweet, salty, and vinegary all at once—was one of the most exciting they'd ever tasted. "I made my fame with my sauces," Perrier declared with pride. It was perfectly matched with a slightly spicy, flowery, dry Pouilly Fumé from Michel Redde.

The main course of stuffed chicken breast had a lovely balance of sweet and savory flavors, the apricot, spinach, raisin, and mushroom stuffing contrasting beautifully with the crispy chicken skin and a perfectly balanced sauce based on cider vinegar. A sinfully creamy potato gratin was served alongside. When an audience member asked whether the gratin would be made with cheese, Perrier gasped in horror. "There is no cheese in a gratin Dauphinois!" he said forcefully, his regional pride showing clearly. He explained that the gratin Savoyard, from a different region of France, has plenty of cheese, and that it's a wonderful dish, but it's not a gratin Dauphinois. He rubbed the bottom of the gratin dish with a garlic clove and butter, sliced the potatoes paper thin, drowned them in cream, and them baked the dish for an hour. A delicious and deep Chateauneuf-du-Pape from Domaine de Mont-Redon was served with the chicken, its fruity and peppery flavors and full-bodied texture complementing the complex combination of tastes in the dish.

As a special treat, Perrier demonstrated an elegant new dish he'll be serving at Le Bec-Fin this winter: a filet of halibut, steamed on a bed of seaweed over an herb-and-spice-flavored court-bouillon, beautifully served in a Chinese bamboo steamer. The audience got the chance to taste the rich sauce that will accompany the fish—a mousseline of egg yolks flavored with réduction Bernaise (tarragon, parsley, shallots, and crushed pepper) and whisked with a simple vinaigrette before serving.

Perrier finished with a simple and delicious lemon tart, made with a sweet pastry shell filled with lemon curd. The tart tasted purely of the essence of lemons—the perfect ending to a rich and complex meal.

Tips from Georges Perrier

  • Perrier makes rich mashed potatoes with a mix of one Yukon gold potato to two regular baking potatoes, adds plenty of butter and warm milk, and puts them through the medium disk of a food mill to make them perfectly smooth. He also adds a special finishing touch: "I'm going to give you a secret," he says. "I finish my mashed potatoes with a good hazelnut oil." He advises adding a teaspoon or two just before serving for a truly sublime dish.
  • For a filet of fish with deliciously crisp skin, Perrier uses a Chinese technique: he dusts the skin side with a bit of arrowroot before sautéing. He also rests a lid slightly smaller than the sauté pan directly on top of the fish in order to keep it from curling and to keep the skin in contact with the hot pan.
  • Start with a top-quality chicken for the best results when cooking any chicken dish; Perdue will not do. "I love him, but I hate his chicken," Perrier said, drawing a big laugh from the audience. He advises looking for a free-range, farm-raised chicken produced in your area. "That is the kind that tastes the most like the best French farm chickens, les poulets de Bresse," he says.
  • Perrier uses an electric knife for cutting perfect slices of fish or chicken breast. He says it's the only thing he can use to cut slices of the delicate fish terrine he makes at Le Bec-Fin: "It's so light I can't use anything else."

Kate Murphy
Mobil Travel Guide
There is probably no better French cuisine outside France. . .Five Stars
Craig Claiborne
To my taste, Le Bec-Fin represents one of the chief glories of French cooking, not only in Philadelphia but in all of America.
The New York Times
Mobil Travel Guide
There is probably no better French cuisine outside France...Five Stars.
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Product Details

  • ISBN-13: 9780762401703
  • Publisher: Running Press Book Publishers
  • Publication date: 9/28/1997
  • Pages: 224
  • Product dimensions: 9.66 (w) x 11.30 (h) x 0.97 (d)

Meet the Author

Aliza Green is the author of five successful cookbooks, beginning with her authorial partnership with French chef Georges Perrier on Le Bec-Fin Recipes. She also co-authored ¡Ceviche!: Seafood, Salads, and Cocktails with a Latino Twist with chef Guillermo Piernot, which won a James Beard Award for “Best Single Subject Cookbook.” Beans: More than 200 Delicious, Wholesome Recipes from Around the World, appeared as one of The New York Times’ top cookbooks of the year. She has also authored Field Guide to Meat and Field Guide to Produce. Green’s food columns and articles appear in a variety of local and national newspapers and magazines, including in Fine Cooking, Prevention, Philadelphia Magazine, the Philadelphia Inquirer, Philadelphia Daily News, and The National Culinary Review. She has conducted numerous cooking classes, had many television appearances, including NBC’s Today Show, and radio interviews, and is a highly reputed television and print food stylist.

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Recipe

A Recipe from Georges Perrier's Le Bec-Fin Recipes

Fricassée de Crevettes à la Provençale
Fricassee of Shrimp Provençal Style

A fricassée is a very old term for a dish that originally meant a sort of stew or ragout of meat or poultry in a white or brown sauce. Here it refers to a quick sauté of shrimp in a sauce of garlic, tomato, and brandy. I like to serve this dish with my Pommes de Terres Purée. Use extra-large sized shrimp. If you need to order them, they will be 16-20 count per pound, which means about one ounce per shrimp, or about a quarter pound of shrimp per person.

[Editor's Note: At the De Gustibus demonstration, Perrier used medium-size rock shrimp for this recipe, which work just as well as the extra large. He says he likes rock shrimp for their sweetness.]

Service pour 4

The Shrimp

1 pound shrimp, peeled and deveined
salt and white pepper
1 tablespoon sweet butter plus 1/2 pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
2 red, ripe tomatoes (peeled, seeded and diced: tomatoes concassées [see below])
2 tablespoons brandy
2 tablespoons dry white vermouth
1/2 cup Fond Blanc de Volaille [chicken stock]
3 tablespoons finely chopped Italian parsley

Preparing the shrimp
Season the shrimp with salt and pepper to taste. In a large sauté pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the butter and the oil until sizzling. Add the shrimp and sauté until just cooked through (pink and opaque). Remove the shrimp from the pan and keep warm. Add the garlic and sauté 15 seconds, stirring constantly to avoid browning. Stir in the Tomates Concassées [see below].

Add the brandy and heat slightly. Then flambé (ignite with a long match). When the flames subside, add the vermouth and Fond Blanc de Volaille [chicken stock]. Reduce the liquid until syrupy. Whisk in the remaining 1/2 pound butter in small pieces, then add the parsley. Return the shrimp to the pan to rewarm. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

To serve, surround a mound of Purée de Pommes de Terre (see page 123) with the shrimp and sauce.

Chef's Truc: Tomates Concassées

At Le Bec-Fin, we often use Tomates Concassées. We prepare them by taking red, ripe tomatoes and dropping them briefly into a pot of boiling water. After about 20 seconds, you can feel the tomato skin loosening from the flesh. At this point, skim the tomatoes from the water and shock them in a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking. Peel the tomatoes, then cut them in half "through the equator," exposing the seed pockets. Scoop out the seedy pulp and either save for a stock or discard. Cut the tomatoes into small (1/2" cubes), dice and reserve. The tomatoes once prepared like this will keep only 1 day before starting to lose texture and flavor.


Fricassée de Crevettes a la Provençale (Fricassee of Shrimp Provençal Style) excerpted with permission from Georges Perrier's Le Bec-Fin Recipes copyright © 1997 by Georges Perrier, published by Running Press Book Publishers, Philadelphia and London. All rights reserved.

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