Hacking Digital Cameras

Overview

Why waste a thousand words?

Photos tell stories. And the more you can do with your digital camera, the better the story you can tell. So build a remote control and sneak up on that picture that keeps eluding you. Create an adapter that lets you use SLR-type lenses on your point-and-shoot. Play with lens magnification or create a pinhole lens. Beef up flash memory. And that's ...

See more details below
Available through our Marketplace sellers.
Other sellers (Paperback)
  • All (15) from $5.28   
  • New (6) from $13.98   
  • Used (9) from $5.28   
Close
Sort by
Page 1 of 1
Showing All
Note: Marketplace items are not eligible for any BN.com coupons and promotions
$13.98
Seller since 2007

Feedback rating:

(22505)

Condition:

New — never opened or used in original packaging.

Like New — packaging may have been opened. A "Like New" item is suitable to give as a gift.

Very Good — may have minor signs of wear on packaging but item works perfectly and has no damage.

Good — item is in good condition but packaging may have signs of shelf wear/aging or torn packaging. All specific defects should be noted in the Comments section associated with each item.

Acceptable — item is in working order but may show signs of wear such as scratches or torn packaging. All specific defects should be noted in the Comments section associated with each item.

Used — An item that has been opened and may show signs of wear. All specific defects should be noted in the Comments section associated with each item.

Refurbished — A used item that has been renewed or updated and verified to be in proper working condition. Not necessarily completed by the original manufacturer.

New
BRAND NEW

Ships from: Avenel, NJ

Usually ships in 1-2 business days

  • Canadian
  • International
  • Standard, 48 States
  • Standard (AK, HI)
$14.08
Seller since 2008

Feedback rating:

(16056)

Condition: New
Brand New, Perfect Condition, Please allow 4-14 business days for delivery. 100% Money Back Guarantee, Over 1,000,000 customers served.

Ships from: Westminster, MD

Usually ships in 1-2 business days

  • Canadian
  • International
  • Standard, 48 States
  • Standard (AK, HI)
$14.91
Seller since 2008

Feedback rating:

(13336)

Condition: New
Brand New, unused and in Perfect Condition. This item might take an additional 2 days to process by this seller.

Ships from: East Patchogue, NY

Usually ships in 1-2 business days

  • Canadian
  • International
  • Standard, 48 States
  • Standard (AK, HI)
  • Express, 48 States
  • Express (AK, HI)
$17.29
Seller since 2008

Feedback rating:

(4018)

Condition: New
New Book. Shipped from UK within 4 to 14 business days. Established seller since 2000.

Ships from: Horcott Rd, Fairford, United Kingdom

Usually ships in 1-2 business days

  • Standard, 48 States
  • Standard (AK, HI)
$30.71
Seller since 2007

Feedback rating:

(7825)

Condition: New
Buy with confidence. Excellent Customer Service & Return policy.

Ships from: Richmond, TX

Usually ships in 1-2 business days

  • Canadian
  • International
  • Standard, 48 States
  • Standard (AK, HI)
$56.29
Seller since 2009

Feedback rating:

(50)

Condition: New
0764596519 ***BRAND-NEW*** FAST UPS shipping, so you'll receive your order FAST! (r'cd within 1-5 business days after shipping in most cases) We've been in business for over 18 ... years. We provide EXCEPTIONAL customer service. We're open 24/7 to serve you best. **** PLEASE NOTE: UPS does not deliver to PO Boxes or APO addresses, so please be sure to give us a physical street address for delivery. Also, unfortunately, we cannot ship this item to Alaska or Hawaii. Thanks! Read more Show Less

Ships from: Dundee, MI

Usually ships in 1-2 business days

  • Standard, 48 States
  • Standard (AK, HI)
  • Express, 48 States
  • Express (AK, HI)
Page 1 of 1
Showing All
Close
Sort by
Sending request ...

Overview

Why waste a thousand words?

Photos tell stories. And the more you can do with your digital camera, the better the story you can tell. So build a remote control and sneak up on that picture that keeps eluding you. Create an adapter that lets you use SLR-type lenses on your point-and-shoot. Play with lens magnification or create a pinhole lens. Beef up flash memory. And that's just where the tale begins. The ending is up to you.

Hack any digital camera

Illustrated step-by-step directions for more than 20 hacks, including:

  • Building triggers
  • Accessing raw sensor data
  • Making accessory lens adapters
  • Eliminating the infrared blocking filter
  • Extending lenses
  • Making reverse macro adapters
  • Building a monopod
  • Creating bicycle and car mounts
  • Hacking microdrives from other devices
Read More Show Less

Product Details

  • ISBN-13: 9780764596513
  • Publisher: Wiley, John & Sons, Incorporated
  • Publication date: 8/29/2005
  • Series: ExtremeTech Series , #18
  • Edition number: 1
  • Pages: 519
  • Product dimensions: 7.40 (w) x 9.20 (h) x 1.10 (d)

Meet the Author

Chieh Cheng has a Computer Science degree and is currently a Senior Software Engineer developing radiation medicine control systems for cancer treatment. He is an avid photographer who has won photo contests and had pictures published in magazines. Hacking cameras is one of his many long-term hobbies. He created and has maintained the Camera Hacker web site (www.CameraHacker.com) since its inception in 1998. The web site includes forums and articles on camera hacking projects, practical photography tips, and photographic equipment reviews.

Auri Rahimzadeh has been tinkering with computers ever since he was six years old and loves all technology. Auri collects computers and has been involved with many computer projects, including teaching computers alongside Steve Wozniak, co-founder of Apple Computer. Auri is the author of the book Geek My Ride, also published by Wiley in their ExtremeTech series. He has written hundreds of articles on various computer technologies, and has contributed to many standards, including HDTV, DVD, and interactive television. Auri contributes to computer education for students across the country and has promoted technology awareness through the Indianapolis Computer Society, where he has served as president for three years. Currently, Auri runs his own IT consulting firm, The Auri Group (TAG), and spends his free time programming, chatting in Starbucks, and going to Pacers games (Go Pacers!).

Read More Show Less

Read an Excerpt

Hacking Digital Cameras


By Chieh Cheng

John Wiley & Sons

ISBN: 0-7645-9651-9


Chapter One

Building Triggers

in this chapter

* Making a Wired Remote Trigger

* Making a Delay Trigger

* Making an Interval Trigger

* Connecting the Triggers to a Point-and-Shoot Camera

* Extending the Remote Switch

One of the first camera hacks I ever performed was the extension of the remote trigger release on my Canon EOS SLR: I extended it to shoot pictures of myself on roller skates from a distance. The hack was so easy I soon learned to make trigger switches as well. Trigger switches and extensions can serve purposes other than self-portraiture. You might want to set up your camera gear in a remote location to photograph birds and other animals in action. Sometimes I would set my camera in my hamsters' cages to capture their daily activities. Another popular remote trigger application is shooting sporting events. Photographers have been known to rig their gear inside hockey rinks and even in goalie boxes, generally using wireless triggers. But nothing is stopping you from running wired camera equipment to the basketball hoop in your yard. Mounting your camera there can render some awesome pictures of your kids playing basketball.

This chapter helps you make trigger switches and extend their ranges. If you have trigger switches from older generation cameras, you may be able to adapt them for use on your new state-of-the-art cameras. This chapter shows you howto make those adapters. Most single-lens reflex (SLR) cameras have a built-in shutter trigger port, and you connect to this port directly. But most point-and-shoot (P&S) cameras lack this nifty feature. On these cameras, you hack the camera itself and wire a trigger port directly to the shutter switch. This trigger port will use the same interface as the one available on SLRs, so if you have both types of camera systems, you can use the same remote trigger switch and extender for all your gear.

Making a Wired Remote Trigger

Most SLRs, even entry-level ones, have a remote shutter release socket so you can shoot pictures without actually touching the camera body. The remote trigger is used often in long-exposure photography, where even a small amount of vibration can introduce blurriness into the image. As steady as your hands are, they are not machines, and, therefore, they are prone to tiny movements that you may not be aware of until you view your picture. With a wired remote trigger release, the camera body can be mounted on a tripod, and you operate the camera through the wired remote trigger.

In astrophotography, exposure can take several minutes. If you had to operate the camera shutter with your hands on your camera's shutter button, they would probably be shaking like mad after five minutes. Holding the shutter button down for a long time is extremely tiring. Fortunately, many remote shutter triggers can be locked in the down position. An older mechanical trigger without the locking feature can be taped instead.

Remote shutter triggers are usually optional accessories for SLRs. They can cost anywhere from five dollars for a mechanical version to several hundred dollars for a super fancy electronic version. In the following sections, you build your own simple remote trigger so you understand how a remote trigger works. This knowledge will help you to build fancier timing triggers and multiple-camera triggers in the later sections of this chapter.

How Does a Remote Trigger Work?

On most of today's cameras, a remote trigger works simply by closing an electrical circuit to trigger the shutter. This simple concept is shown in Figure 1-2. The wired remote is simply a switch extended from the camera body.

Note

This chapter makes extensive use of circuit diagrams. See Appendix B for a list of circuit symbols.

A camera that has auto-focus (AF) capability generally has a two-position shutter trigger. The first position-reached when you press the trigger halfway down-closes the circuit for the auto-focus function. The second position-reached when you press the trigger all the way down-closes the shutter circuit. A wired remote trigger moves these two functions off the camera, as shown in Figure 1-3. Most Canon SLRs use this simple circuit for remote triggering.

Nikon SLRs use a slightly more complex circuit. The shutter circuit is simply an open/close circuit, like that shown previously in Figure 1-2. But the AF circuit is an open/close switch along with three 1N4148 diodes wired in series. The Nikon wired remote trigger circuit is shown in Figure 1-4.

Parts You Need

Your local electronic store carries all of these parts. I prefer Radio Shack because the stores are everywhere. You can also order the parts online from RadioShack.com. I have listed the Radio Shack part numbers for your convenience.

* Mini SPST Momentary Switch (275-1547)

* SPDT Submini Slide Switch (275-409)

* 3/32" Submini Phone Jack (274-245)

* 20-gauge wire (278-1388)

* Mini Project Enclosure (270-288)

Note

A 2.5mm jack is the same size as a 3/32" jack.

There are many different types of switches (see the "Switch Terminology" sidebar). Each one serves a slightly different purpose. Sometimes, two types of switches can be used for the same purpose. For this project, I chose to use two momentary switches and a slide switch. The normally open momentary switch (see Figure 1-6) is similar to the on-camera shutter button. A normally open momentary switch requires that you hold down the switch to close the circuit. As soon as you let go of the switch, it opens the circuit again.

Although this switch is appropriate as a shutter release for high-shutter-speed pictures, it would be tiring to hold down a momentary switch for a long time (minutes or hours), such as during a bulb exposure. To relieve you from having to hold the button down, most remote triggers have a locking feature that holds the button down for you. I have chosen a slide switch (see Figure 1-7) to simulate that feature in this project. When you begin the exposure, slide the switch to on. When you are done with the exposure, slide it to off.

Note

Bulb exposure is the term that describes what happens when you control the shutter's opening and closing without using the camera's shutter speed timer. It's generally used for a long exposure in astrophotography and nigh photography.

In this project, I chose a mini-project enclosure (see Figure 1-8) and a bunch of sub-mini parts to fit into it. These small parts help create a small remote trigger. A smaller remote trigger is easy to carry around and doesn't take up too much space in your camera bag. I also chose a plastic case because they are generally easier to work with than metal cases. It's easier to drill and shape plastic than metal.

Most photographers like to have a small, wired remote. I've noticed that there seems to be a general consensus that smaller is better, and there's nothing wrong with that. In fact, I picked a very small project case and a lot of sub-mini parts for this project. But you might consider a bigger box to fit bigger switches for action events. If you have rigged a camera in a hockey arena by the goal box, you probably don't want to miss a shot because you are fiddling for a button on your tiny remote. You might want to rig up a table-size remote where the button is the size of your hand, so that you can pound on the buttons during the excitement of the game.

For interfacing, I chose a 3/32" (2.5mm) stereo phone jack (refer to the "Canon E3 Connector" sidebar), shown in Figure 1-9. This is the same interface that is used on entry-level Canon EOS SLRs, so you can easily attach this wired remote trigger to them. This interface is common on cellular phone earpieces and other electronic components as well. Both female and male versions are common and easy to source. This is the preferred interface method compared to the proprietary interface found on higher-end Canon EOS SLRs, Nikon SLRs, and others. Later in this chapter I show you how to adapt this simple interface to the proprietary interfaces so that you can use the same remote trigger with the more advanced cameras.

You need some electrical wires to make the connections between the switches and the interface jack. You might already have some leftover wires at home. You can even strip them from your old stereo headphones (3.5mm) or your cell phone earpiece (2.5mm). You won't need very much of it, just about a foot or so of wire. I have listed 20-gauge wire in the part list. But any wire between 18 and 22 gauge will work just fine.

Tools You Need

Here are the tools you will need to complete this project:

* Drill

* Drill bit

* Small c-clamps

* #1 Phillips precision screwdriver

* Digital multimeter

* Wire stripper

* Solder iron

* 0.032" diameter 60/40 Standard Rosin-Core Solder (64-009E)

Cross-Reference

See Appendix A for information on buying and using soldering irons.

For this project, you need a drill to makes holes in the project enclosures for the switches. A low-power electrical version will work fine. The size of the drill bit depends on the switch size. It's easy to measure with a drill gauge, as shown in Figure 1-11 (see Chapter 18 for information about how to make your own drill gauge). Buy a set of drill bits so that you have many sizes on hand. Buying a set is generally cheaper than buying bits individually. Make sure you have a small c-clamp on hand to secure the enclosure on the workbench-you don't want to hold the enclosure with your hand. The drill bit could bite into the enclosure and the drill will have much more torque than your hand can control, which could lead to serious injury. A precision screwdriver is needed for fastening the enclosure together.

When you are ready to put all the electrical connections together, you need a wire stripper to strip the insulation from the end of the wires. A wire stripper costs a few bucks at the local home improvement store. The soldering iron and solder help you create good electrical contacts between the switch contacts and the wires (see Appendix A for a quick guide to the basics of soldering). You can find soldering irons and solder at Radio Shack.

Drilling the Case

The first step in making your own remote trigger is to drill the project enclosure. Before you do so, use the drill gauge to measure the hole required by the switch. Poke the switch through the holes in the gauge until you find the right size. Then mount the right sized drill bit onto the drill.

Before actually starting to drill, use the c-clamp to secure the project box onto the workbench (see Figure 1-12). My workbench has several holes over the surface for drill bits to drill through. If your workbench doesn't have the same facility and you don't want accidentally to drill into it, I suggest you place a block of wood between the project box and the workbench. With a wood block in between, when you drill through the project box, you'll drill into the wood block instead of your workbench.

After drilling all of the holes for your enclosure, test fit each jack and switch in the enclosure. This step is your chance to make sure the project box is drilled to your satisfaction, so you can make any additional modification as needed.

Soldering the Wires

When you are done drilling the enclosure, you can start soldering the parts together. Wire up the switches based on the conceptual circuit diagrams presented in the "How Does a Remote Trigger Work?" section. When you are ready to solder the interface jack, refer to the "Canon E3 Connector" sidebar for an overview and solder the connection to match the pin-out. Follow the instructions in Appendix A if your soldering skills are rusty.

After you have soldered all of the wires and contacts, you should test out your trigger before actually fitting everything together. No matter how confident you are about your result, you may find that the trigger is defective. I don't know how many times I put something together, whether it's an electrical project or an internal computer component upgrade, thinking it's perfect, but after tightening the last screw, it fails to work. So, before all the switches and wires and the jack are in the project box, plug it into your camera. Verify that all the switches are working as expected. If everything works properly, you can move to the next step. Otherwise, pull out your digital multimeter (see Figure 1-13) and test all of the connections.

Note

A digital multimeter is a multi-purpose electronic measurement tool. The digital multimeter can measure voltage, resistance, and current. Using the resistance mode, you can check for bad connections in your circuit.

Fitting the Pieces Together

After you've successfully tested the circuits, you can carefully fit everything into your project box. You may have to bend the circuit wires to fit the box. Try to bend them at sleeved unsoldered locations to prevent breaking the soldered contact points. Once everything is fitted into the project case, use a #1 Phillips precision screwdriver to fasten the screw and the case covers together. At this point, you need to test your finished trigger once again. As careful as you were putting the case together, it is possible for a fragile soldering contact to break loose. You don't want to wait and find out that your remote trigger is not working when you are out in the field.

Making a Delay Trigger

You are probably already familiar with a delay trigger. You use one whenever you place your digital camera in front of a group of people, set the 10-second timer, and run into the scene yourself. Or whenever you want to shoot a self-portrait, such as that shown in Figure 1-15. Most decent cameras on the market have pretty good built-in self-timers. It's practically an industry standard to set them to 10 seconds. There are two reasons you might want to make a delay trigger yourself: First, you can make one in case your camera doesn't come with a self-timer; second, the built-in 10-second timer is either too short or too long for your needs.

I learned to build a delay trigger because I found through experience that the 10-second delay timer is simply not long enough for me to set up a perfect shot. As my photographic experience increases over time, my taste for the "perfect" shot also increases. I found myself taking from several minutes to several hours just to perfectly set up a scene and all the models. When I have to join the scene myself, the setup time for each shot far exceeds the 10 second allowance.

Just recently, I visited the Villa Riviera building in Long Beach, California, and I had a chance to shoot some wonderful environmental portraits of my girlfriend and me. I had to set up my Canon EOS D30 digital SLR on the other side of the courtyard. For each shot, I set the 10- second timer, ran to the other side of the courtyard, and tried to pose before the timer went off. Each time I failed. After taking five unsuccessful frames, I finally gave up.

Without my further rambling, let's start making a delay trigger.

Parts You Need

Here are the parts you will need to complete this project:

* 555CN Timer IC (276-1723) or TLC555 Low-Power CMOS Timer (276-1718)

* SPDT Micromini 5VDC Relay (275-240)

* Pushbutton normally closed Momentary Switch (275-1548)

* 4.7K ohm 1/2W 5% Carbon Film Resistor (271-1124)

* 2200µF Electrolytic Capacitor

* 0.01µF Polyester Film Capacitor (272-1065)

* Heavy-duty 9V Battery Snap Connector (270-324)

* SPST Submini Slide Switch (275-409)

* Stereo 3/32" Submini Phone Jack (274-245)

* 6" Matching Solderless PC Board (276-170)

* Project case

* 9-volt battery

Tip

These are all fairly basic electronics parts, so they can be found easily at your favorite electronics store. I bought them all at Radio Shack, either locally or online. For your convenience, I have listed their Radio Shack part numbers.

(Continues...)



Excerpted from Hacking Digital Cameras by Chieh Cheng Excerpted by permission.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.

Read More Show Less

Table of Contents

Acknowledgments.

Introduction.

Part I: Hacking Cameras.

Chapter 1: Building Triggers.

Chapter 2: Adding a Tripod Socket to Your Camera.

Chapter 3: Accessing Raw Sensor Data.

Chapter 4: Hacking Power.

Chapter 5: Controlling Your Digital Camera from Afar.

Chapter 6: Improving Your Canon EOS Digital Rebel.

Part II: Hacking Lenses.

Chapter 7: Using Accessory Lenses.

Chapter 8: Making an Accessory Lens Adapter.

Chapter 9: Changing the Lens Magnification.

Chapter 10: Making Your Own Pinhole Lens.

Chapter 11: Extending the Lens on Canon EOS Cameras.

Chapter 12: Making Reverse Macro Adapters.

Chapter 13: Modifying the Canon EF-S Lens for Use on Canon EF Mounts.

Part III: Creative Photography Hacks.

Chapter 14: Hacking with Filters.

Chapter 15: Shooting Infrared Pictures with Your Digital Camera.

Chapter 16: Eliminating the IR Blocking Filter from Your Digital Camera.

Part IV: Building Fun Camera Tools.

Chapter 17: Building a Car Camera Mount.

Chapter 18: Building a Headrest Camera Mount.

Chapter 19: Building a Spycam Mount for Your Bicycle.

Chapter 20: Building a Camera Stabilizer.

Chapter 21: Building a Flash Bracket.

Chapter 22: Building a Monopod.

Chapter 23: Making a 500-Watt Home Studio Light.

Part V: Flash Memory Hacks.

Chapter 24: Modifying the CF Type I to PC Card Type II Adapter.

Chapter 25: Removing the 4GB Microdrive from the Creative Nomad MuVo2 MP3 Player.

Chapter 26: Removing the Microdrive from the Rio Carbon 5GB MP3 Player.

Chapter 27: Removing the 4GB Microdrive from the Apple iPod mini.

Appendix A: Soldering Basics.

Appendix B: Circuit Symbols.

Appendix C: Glass Cutting Basics.

Appendix D: Photographer’s Glossary.

Index.

Read More Show Less

Customer Reviews

Be the first to write a review
( 0 )
Rating Distribution

5 Star

(0)

4 Star

(0)

3 Star

(0)

2 Star

(0)

1 Star

(0)

Your Rating:

Your Name: Create a Pen Name or

Barnes & Noble.com Review Rules

Our reader reviews allow you to share your comments on titles you liked, or didn't, with others. By submitting an online review, you are representing to Barnes & Noble.com that all information contained in your review is original and accurate in all respects, and that the submission of such content by you and the posting of such content by Barnes & Noble.com does not and will not violate the rights of any third party. Please follow the rules below to help ensure that your review can be posted.

Reviews by Our Customers Under the Age of 13

We highly value and respect everyone's opinion concerning the titles we offer. However, we cannot allow persons under the age of 13 to have accounts at BN.com or to post customer reviews. Please see our Terms of Use for more details.

What to exclude from your review:

Please do not write about reviews, commentary, or information posted on the product page. If you see any errors in the information on the product page, please send us an email.

Reviews should not contain any of the following:

  • - HTML tags, profanity, obscenities, vulgarities, or comments that defame anyone
  • - Time-sensitive information such as tour dates, signings, lectures, etc.
  • - Single-word reviews. Other people will read your review to discover why you liked or didn't like the title. Be descriptive.
  • - Comments focusing on the author or that may ruin the ending for others
  • - Phone numbers, addresses, URLs
  • - Pricing and availability information or alternative ordering information
  • - Advertisements or commercial solicitation

Reminder:

  • - By submitting a review, you grant to Barnes & Noble.com and its sublicensees the royalty-free, perpetual, irrevocable right and license to use the review in accordance with the Barnes & Noble.com Terms of Use.
  • - Barnes & Noble.com reserves the right not to post any review -- particularly those that do not follow the terms and conditions of these Rules. Barnes & Noble.com also reserves the right to remove any review at any time without notice.
  • - See Terms of Use for other conditions and disclaimers.
Search for Products You'd Like to Recommend

Recommend other products that relate to your review. Just search for them below and share!

Create a Pen Name

Your Pen Name is your unique identity on BN.com. It will appear on the reviews you write and other website activities. Your Pen Name cannot be edited, changed or deleted once submitted.

 
Your Pen Name can be any combination of alphanumeric characters (plus - and _), and must be at least two characters long.

Continue Anonymously
Sort by: Showing all of 3 Customer Reviews
  • Anonymous

    Posted October 6, 2005

    Wow! An eye opener!

    This book contains so many interesting things I can do with my camera that I never thought possible. It's even got a whole section on building camera accessories, such as monopod, car mounts, and flash brackets. Worth every penny!

    Was this review helpful? Yes  No   Report this review
  • Anonymous

    Posted October 18, 2005

    tinker away

    Here is another benign use of the word 'Hack'. Meaning to tinker with, or experiment. The authors indulge fully in this meaning of the word, as applied to digital cameras. The activities described are almost all hardware related. That is, hands on, manual tinkering. Such as making triggers. An entire chapter is devoted to this. You can see that the issues here are not so different from building triggers for analog cameras. A trigger is a basic and important extended functionality for many camera users. There is much other experimental functionality given. The most interesting seems to be taking infrared photographs. Many digital cameras do respond in the IR. Unlike standard photographic film, which favours the visible spectrum. So whereas with an analog camera, you would need special IR film, if you have a digital camera, it should already have a decent IR sensitivity. For some of you, this may be an unexpected bonus of using a digital camera. Two chapters do deal mostly with software. One involves getting raw sensor data from Casio or Nikon cameras, and then using some publicly available software to decode these into a more standard graphics format. While the other chapter is about programming a remote control for the camera.

    Was this review helpful? Yes  No   Report this review
  • Anonymous

    Posted October 8, 2005

    chezmiko

    Easy to understand, thorough. Really makes your digital camera work for you. I know how to make my pictures come out clearer and with better lighting, what lenses to use when hiking or at night, etc...definitely a sound investment.

    Was this review helpful? Yes  No   Report this review
Sort by: Showing all of 3 Customer Reviews

If you find inappropriate content, please report it to Barnes & Noble
Why is this product inappropriate?
Comments (optional)