High-Low-Split Poker For Advanced Players: Seven Card Stud and Omaha Eight-or-Better

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Product Details

  • ISBN-13: 9781880685105
  • Publisher: Two Plus Two Publishing, LLC
  • Publication date: 8/28/1994
  • Edition number: 2
  • Pages: 333
  • Sales rank: 732,487
  • Product dimensions: 5.58 (w) x 8.48 (h) x 0.98 (d)

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General Concepts

When playing in the lower limits, which I've defined as $10-$20 and below, there are two kinds of games. The first type is a game in which people are playing too loosely, especially after the flop; the second is a game where the players generally know what they are doing. In the first type of game, where people play too loosely, the main error is that many players draw to hands ù especially low hands ù that are not the nuts. If you find yourself in a game like this, your primary edge comes from the fact that you won't be drawing to less than the nuts. That is, after the flop, you should draw only to the nuts.

In games where people play approximately correctly, you must play not only correctly on the flop but also very tightly before the flop. Notice that there are two different strategies. In a really good game, the primary strategy is to play correctly and tightly on the flop. In a game that is not so good, you still have an edge as long as you play fewer hands before the flop than your opponents. When playing low-limit Omaha eight-or-better, if you are simply the tightest player both before the flop and on the flop, you have significant edge. However, if the game is fairly good, you will cost yourself a lot of profit if you play too tightly before the flop. For example, an ace-deuce in a loose game is almost always profitable, even if your other cards are nothing special. This is because if the flop gives you a low or a draw to a low, other players with ace-trey or deuce-trey will draw to the second and third nuts.

But if the game is reasonably tough, your ace-deuce loses most of its profitability, since other players won't be drawing to the second and third nuts as often. And when the low does come, you may have to split the low half, plus there will be fewer people to collect from. (Even so, an ace-deuce is usually still worth playing.)

Because Omaha eight-or-better has the same structure as Texas hold'em, and because even reasonably good players tend to find reasons to play certain hands, if you just play tight before the flop, you will beat even the toughest games. (This should change as more people study this text.) But remember, in the looser games, you will cost yourself some profit.

There is a lot more play to this game than there appears to be. For example, if someone bets, you might need to raise to squeeze another player off a low draw when you also have a low draw. Even though it doesn't seem that you can knock out an ace-deuce draw, sometimes it doesn't pay for an opponent to draw after the flop. Consequently, if he plays well, he just might throw away his hand. (This works against only a few very good players.)

Even before the flop, you sometimes must make plays like reraising to knock out players behind you so that you are last to act. It is very advantageous to have the last position. It also is often good to be first to act. Problems can occur when you are in the middle.

The idea is to play hands that can develop into two-way hands, where you can either scoop or three-quarter an opponent. For example, suppose you have As 2c 6d 7d You may wish to raise, because you don't want someone holding a hand like 6h 7c 8d 9s to also play in a multiway pot.

Notice that this player can make a higher straight than you can make, plus you can get quartered by tying for the low with some other player. Again, there is a lot more to this game than just playing technically correct.

The hands that tend to do well are those containing ace-deuce and ace-deuce-trey. Having a suited card with the ace is also beneficial. In a lot of spots, four high cards do well, because if this hand wins, there probably will not be a low.

Three big cards that include an ace, plus a deuce or a trey, are also good hands. But if the other low card with the ace is not a deuce or a trey, you should throw the hand away. For example, Ah 5c Kh Js almost always should be discarded. This hand might become playable only if your opponents are playing very poorly and you can see the flop for one bet, or if you are in a very late position and no one has raised. Also, note that when two low cards hit the board, all high hands go way down in value. Assuming that you win the high, you are now likely to split the pot if another low card comes.

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Table of Contents

Foreword by Mason Malmuth v
A Quick Note vii

High-Low-Split Poker Seven-Card Stud Eight-or-Better For Advanced

Players 1
Introduction 3
Using This Book 7
Why Play Stud Eight-or-Better? 9
Part One: Third Street 11
Introduction 12
Starting Hands 13
Three of a Kind Wired 24
Disguising Your Hand 25
T Ante Stealing 26
Getting Reraised on a Semi-Steal 28
When an Ace Raises 30
When the Bring-In Raises 31
Afterthought 32
Part Two: The Later Streets 33
Introduction 34
General Strategy 35
How Far Do You Go? 42
Fourth Street 43
Check-Raising on Fourth and Fifth Streets 48
Fifth Street 50
Sixth Street 55
Seventh Street 56
Afterthought 60
Part Three: Miscellaneous Topics 61
Introduction 62
Position 63
Playing the High Hands 64
Bluffing 66
Slow-Playing 68
Knowing Your Opponents 70
Raising Aggressively 73
The Toughest Decision of All 74
Staying to the End 75
Pairing the Door Card 76
Keeping Track of the Cards 79
Scare Cards 80
An Expert Play 81
Another Good Play 82
Quick Notes 83
Afterthought 87
Part Four: The Game Itself 89
Introduction 90
Playing in Tight Games 91
Playing in Loose Games 93
Playing Short-Handed 95
Big Games Versus Small Games 96
Running the Game 98
Afterthought 102
Part Five: Other Skills 103
Introduction 104
Reading Hands 105
Psychology 110
Afterthought 115
Part Six: Questions and Answers 117
Introduction 118
Questions and Answers 119
Afterthought 170
Conclusion 171

High-Low-Split Poker Omaha Eight-or-Better For Advanced Players

173
Introduction 175
Using This Book 177
Why Play Omaha Eight-or-Better 179
Part One: Basic Strategy 181
Introduction 182
General Concepts 183
More Specific Ideas 186
Afterthought 199
Part Two: Advanced Strategy 201
Introduction 202
General Concepts 203
Position 205
Low Hands 206
High Hands 208
Your Starting Hand 213
Starting With Big Pairs 215
When You Are First In 217
How To Play Your Hand 219
Play on the Flop 221
When You Have the Best Hand 223
Afterthought 225
Part Three: Additional Advanced Concepts 227
Introduction 228
Automatic Play 229
High Versus Low in Three-Handed Pots 230
Loose Games 232
Multiway Versus Short-Handed Play 235
Scare Cards 240
Getting Counterfeited 243
Getting Quartered 245
Playing Against Steamers 247
Playing Against Tight, Solid Players 249
Your Playing Style 253
Fluctuations 255
Pot-Limit Omaha Eight-or-Better 256
Afterthought 258
Part Four: Other Skills 259
Introduction 260
Reading Hands 261
Psychology 266
Afterthought 271
Part Five: Questions and Answers 273
Introduction 274
Questions and Answers 275
Afterthought 323
Conclusion 325
Glossary 327
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