Hungry for Paris: The Ultimate Guide to the City's 102 Best Restaurants [NOOK Book]

Overview

This new and updated version (published in September 2010) of Hungry for Paris, the most authoritative and charming guide to eating well in the French capital, includes reviews of all of the really fabulous new restaurants you won't want to miss during your next trip to Paris, as well as updated maps and indexes. 

WHEN IN PARIS. . . .

If you’re passionate about ...
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Hungry for Paris: The Ultimate Guide to the City's 102 Best Restaurants

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Overview

This new and updated version (published in September 2010) of Hungry for Paris, the most authoritative and charming guide to eating well in the French capital, includes reviews of all of the really fabulous new restaurants you won't want to miss during your next trip to Paris, as well as updated maps and indexes. 

WHEN IN PARIS. . . .

If you’re passionate about eating well during your next trip to Paris, you couldn’t ask for a better travel companion than Alexander Lobrano’s charming, friendly, and authoritative Hungry for Paris, the first new comprehensive guide in many years to the city’s restaurant scene. Lobrano, Gourmet magazine’s European correspondent, has written for almost every major food and travel magazine since he became an American in Paris in 1986. Here he shares his personal selection of the city’s 102 best restaurants, each of which is portrayed in savvy, fun, lively descriptions that are not only indispensable for finding a superb meal but a pleasure to read.

Lobrano reveals the hottest young chefs, the coziest bistros, the best buys–including those haute cuisine restaurants that are really worth the money–and the secret places Parisians love most, together with information on the most delicious dishes, ambience, clientele, and history of each restaurant. A series of delightful essays cover various aspects of dining in Paris, including “Table for One” (how to eat alone), “The Four Seasons” (the best of seasonal eating in Paris), and “Eating the Unspeakable” (learning to eat what you don’t think you like). All restaurants are keyed to helpful maps, and the book is seasoned with beautiful photographs by Life magazine photographer Bob Peterson that will only help whet your appetite for tasting Paris.

Praise for Hungry for Paris

"Every time I go to Paris I call Alec and ask him where to eat. Nobody else has such an intimate knowledge of what is going on in the Paris food world right this minute, and there is nobody I trust more to tell me all the latest news. Happily, Alec has written it all down in this wonderful book and now I can stop bothering him."—Ruth Reichl

"Hungry for Paris is a brilliant book with an almost fatal flaw: the writing is so enchanting you may never leave home to go to any of Alec’s favorite places. Few people know,love and appreciate Paris restaurants the way Alec does; no one writes about them better or with more charm."—Dorie Greenspan, author of Baking From My Home to Yours

“When I was nineteen, I went to France to study, but instead, I just ate. The experience changed me: I came back to the United States, and a few years later, started Chez Panisse. In Hungry for Paris, Alec Lobrano describes his own gastronomic awakening, probably better than I could! This book is a wonderful guide to eating in Paris.”—Alice Waters

“I dearly hope Monsieur Lobrano has an unlisted phone number, for his book will make readers more than merely hungry for the culinary riches of his adopted city; it will make them ravenous for a dining companion with his particular warmth, wry charm, and refreshingly pure joie de vivre. Lobrano is a sly raconteur, a respectful critic, and the very best kind of insider--one who genuinely longs to share all his best discoveries.”—Julia Glass, author of The Whole World Over and Three Junes



From the Trade Paperback edition.
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Editorial Reviews

Publishers Weekly
A Paris vacation in book form, this volume travels from the glittering restaurants of the Boulevard St.-Germain to the grittier haunts of Belleville and Clichy, offering insights into classic bistros, new favorites and even a smattering of ethnic cheapies (the sorts of dining establishments that Parisians themselves have only just started getting used to). Lobrano, European correspondent for Gourmet magazine, is an observant and dedicated restaurant-hound, noting the peculiarities of a certain proprietor at one brasserie, recording the exact temperature at which oysters are served at another. No entry is longer than two or three pages, but rest assured they're fully stocked with strong opinions and recommendations; happily, Lobrano is unafraid to challenge culinary convention, calling L'Ami Louis, long a brutally expensive stop on the "when in Paris" tour, "a pretty egregious example of conspicuous consumption... especially when you can find better roast chicken and foie gras anywhere." Not since Patricia Wells's classic Food Lover's Guide to Paris has a guidebook given readers such a mouthwatering tour of the City of Lights.
Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
Library Journal

Lobrano (European correspondent, Gourmet magazine), the founding editor of Time Out Guide to Eating & Drinking in Paris and Zagat's Paris Survey, has lived in Paris for 20 years. His experience as a food writer gives this guide its distinctive tone; in fact, even foodies not researching Parisian restaurants will enjoy the entries for their vivid descriptions of the Parisian dining adventures the author has enjoyed. Rather than offering dry reports on a selected restaurant's specialties, Lobrano describes in depth a favorite meal enjoyed at the establishment, complete with food and wine selection, seating arrangements, and conversations with his dining companions. For quick reference or for those who don't wish to read the complete entry, each sketch concludes with short recaps called "In a Word" and "Don't Miss" as well as location and hours. Indexes include listings of establishments by category, price, and weekend availability. Sprinkled liberally throughout the guide are Lobrano's essays on French cuisine and dining customs, as well as personal reminiscences about the foods of both Paris and the United States. As much a book about what and how to eat in Paris as it is about where to eat, this thoroughly enjoyable guide is highly recommended for public libraries with larger travel collections.
—Rita Simmons

From the Publisher
“A wonderful guide to eating in Paris.”—Alice Waters
 
“Nobody else has such an intimate knowledge of what is going on in the Paris food world right this minute. Happily, Alexander Lobrano has written it all down in this wonderful book.”—Ruth Reichl
 
“Delightful . . . the sort of guide you read before you go to Paris—to get in the mood and pick up a few tips, a little style.”Los Angeles Times
 
“When I got the book, I started flipping through it, jumping in and out of various chapters listlessly. But the writing was so good, I wanted to do it justice and read it front-to-back, and found it to be not just a list of restaurants but a truly superb read.”—David Lebovitz, author of The Sweet Life in Paris

Hungry for Paris is like a cozy bistro on a chilly day: It makes you feel welcome.”The Washington Post
 
“This book will make readers more than merely hungry for the culinary riches of Paris; it will make them ravenous for a dining companion with Monsieur Lobrano’s particular warmth, wry charm, and refreshingly pure joie de vivre.”—Julia Glass

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Product Details

  • ISBN-13: 9781588367105
  • Publisher: Random House Publishing Group
  • Publication date: 4/15/2008
  • Sold by: Random House
  • Format: eBook
  • Sales rank: 1,154,149
  • File size: 10 MB

Meet the Author

Alexander Lobrano grew up in Connecticut before moving to Paris, his home today, in 1986. The winner of several James Beard awards, Lobrano was the European correspondent for Gourmet magazine, and is now contributing editor at Saveur. He writes regularly on food and travel for The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, The Guardian, Condé Nast Traveler, Bon Appétit, and many other publications in the United States and the United Kingdom.


From the Trade Paperback edition.
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Read an Excerpt

1st and 2nd ARRONDISSEMENTS . TUILERIES, LES HALLES, BOURSE

Chez Georges chez georges is the gastronomic equivalent of the little black dress—unfailingly correct, politely coquettish, and impeccably Parisian. This is why it was no surprise to find ourselves seated next to the affable and slightly owlish Didier Ludot on a balmy summer night. A self-described antiquaire de mode (antiques dealer specializing in fashion), Ludot runs La Petite Robe Noire (The Little Black Dress) and another boutique specializing in vintage fashion in the Palais-Royal. Since he was entertaining a customer, a stylish Park Avenue blonde who gamely insisted that they speak French so that she “might mend the wreckage of what I half learned in college”—much to her credit, her French was good, and much to his credit, his patience didn’t fail once during a two-and-a-half-hour meal—Ludot’s choice of a restaurant was perfect. Chez Georges is exactly what most foreigners want a bistro to be, which is basically a place where time has stood still on a very French clock (Parisians like it, too, but find it expensive).

Here, the menu is still written out by hand daily and then mimeographed in lilac-colored ink. Brown banquettes upholstered in what the French euphemistically call moleskin but North Americans know as leatherette line both walls of the long, narrow railroad-car-like dining room, and there’s a little bar just inside the front door where your bill is tallied and taxis are called. The decor, such as it is, dates back to its founding in the early 1900s and doesn’t add up to much more than mirrors interspersed with Gothic columns and a pale tiled floor.

The older waitresses who have ruled the roost for decades are gradually retiring, but the younger staff perpetuate a delightful house serving style based on smiles and solicitude. And most important of all, the menu hasn’t changed an iota during the twenty years that I’ve been coming here. This place remains an unfailingly good address for a trencherman’s feed of impeccably prepared bistro classics.

On a warm night, Alice, Bruno, and I raced through a bottle of the good house Chablis and the plate of sausages and radishes that came with a little pot of butter as soon as we’d ordered. Though everyone and his great-aunt is staking a claim to Julia Child these days, I couldn’t resist telling them about how she’d taught me to butter my radishes on my first visit to Chez Georges. Invited to dinner by the late Gregory Usher, an American who founded the cooking school at the Hôtel Ritz and a close friend of Julia’s, I arrived uncharacteristically early and found Child already seated and alone. I introduced myself and watched in fascination as she buttered a radish and chomped away. Then, after a swig of Sancerre, she said, “The radish is one of nature’s most underrated creations.” I smiled, and she added, “It’s a good thing no one overheard me. When you’re my age, a remark like that could land you in an old folk’s home. Still, a nicely buttered radish is just the thing to remind any cook to stay humble and simple in the kitchen. Most foods don’t really need any improving.”

I suspect Child loved Chez Georges for the same reasons I do. Not only is the food delicious, but it’s a good spot in which to channel frivolous, flirtatious postwar Paris, the wondrous city that not only made Julia Child into Julia Child but Audrey Hepburn into Audrey Hepburn, Leslie Caron into Leslie Caron, etc.

Bruno, good Frenchman that he is, ordered a salade de museau de boeuf—thin slices of beef muzzle, a curious crunchy mix of meat and cartilage, which Alice gamely tried, and I went for a sauté of girolles, tiny wild mushrooms, which were delicious, but not garlicky enough. In fact, the microscopic bits of chopped parsley included to make it a real persillade (mix of chopped garlic and onion) alarmed me. No knife I know could have chopped that finely, so suffice it to say I deeply hope Chez Georges isn’t starting to take shortcuts, like ready-made restaurant-supply-company persillade, for example. Alice had a good ruddy ratatouille, in which the eggplant cubes retained their shape but had a correctly soft texture, with the lovely addition of a handful of plump capers.

Our main courses were outstanding, too, including Alice’s veal sweetbreads with girolles and Bruno’s similarly garnished veal chop. Neither was as good as my grilled turbot, a big slab of meaty white fish on the bone with sexy black grill marks like a fishnet stocking. It came with a little huddle of boiled potatoes and a sauceboat of béarnaise sauce so perfect that I polished off what my fish didn’t need with a soup spoon.

I couldn’t resist the wobbly and wonderfully cratered crème caramel in a fine bath of slightly burnt caramel sauce, while the others ate wild strawberries and first-of-season French raspberries with dollops of ivory-colored crème fraîche, confirmation of my deeply held belief that butterfat is bliss. Just as we’d finished our coffee, the blond waitress of a certain age, a handsome woman with a severe chignon, reappeared; she’d changed out of her black uniform and white apron and was wearing a perfectly pressed pink paneled linen skirt and a matching sleeveless top. She bade everyone good night and went, Cinderella-like, into the night. When we left a few minutes later, our transformation went in the opposite direction, or silk purse into sow’s ear, since after several delicious blowsy hours of la vie en rose, our beeping cell phones signaled the impatience of the world outside. This is why I hope we’ll always have the delicious antidote to modernity offered by Chez Georges and buttered radishes.

IN A WORD: The perfect all-purpose Parisian bistro and a great place to hunt down impeccably made bona fide bistro classics like blanquette de veau (veal in a lemon-spiked sauce) that are increasingly hard to come by.

DON’T MISS: Terrine de foie de volaille (chicken liver terrine); harengs avec pommes à l’huile (herring with dressed potatoes); foie gras d’oie maison (homemade goose foie gras); escalope de saumon à l’oseille (salmon in sorrel sauce); coquilles Saint-Jacques aux échalotes (scallops sautéed with shallots); grilled turbot with béarnaise sauce; profiteroles (cream puffs) with hot chocolate sauce. ... 1 rue du Mail, 2nd, 01.42.60.07.11. métro: Bourse or Sentier. open Monday to Friday for lunch and dinner. closed Saturday and Sunday.  •  $$$

Les Fines Gueules
Wine bars are having a major revival in paris, and this one, occupying a pleasant corner just up the street from the Banque de France, is one of the best. The best is its theme, too, since it serves only the finest pedigreed produce. The butter comes from Jean-Yves Bordier in Saint-Malo, the oysters from David Hervé in Oléron, the bread from the Poujauran bakery in the 7th, vegetables from the lord of the legumes, Joël Thiébault, and meat from the star butcher Hugo Desnoyer; all of the wines on offer are organic.

The beautiful zinc bar announces the vocation of this place, and exposed stone walls make for a mellow atmosphere. Since it’s not far from the Louvre, it’s ideal for a light lunch, maybe veal carpaccio with shavings of three-year-old Parmesan, a plate of charcuterie, jamón ibérico (the best Spanish ham) with Buratta, a creamy cheese from Puglia in Italy, and then maybe one of the daily specials from the chalkboard menu—cod with fork-mashed potatoes, zucchini, and pleurottes mushrooms; steak tartare made from Salers beef; or fusilli with Gorgonzola sauce. Finish up with a cheese plate, a varied selection of perfectly aged cheeses that might include a chèvre from the Ardèche, Brie, Parmesan, and Roquefort. Friendly service and modest prices add to the pleasure of a meal here, and the restaurant is open daily, although only charcuterie and cheese plates are served at lunch on Saturday and Sunday.

IN A WORD: With a very convenient location, this is an excellent example of the new breed of Paris wine bar. Perfect for lunch or a light, casual dinner. ... 43 rue Croix des Petits Champs, 1st, 01.42.61.35.41. métro: Palais-Royal, Musée du Louvre, or Sentier. open daily for lunch and dinner.  •  $$

Higuma
I have a permanent, slightly desperate craving for all small stuffed foods—ravioli, Chinese pot stickers, tortellini, pelemeni, Slovenian struklji, anything stuffed. Almost every cuisine has at least one and often many small stuffed foods, confirmation of the fact, I think, that the idea of filling one object with another strikes a very deep primal cord of human pleasure. At any given moment, I’m also in constant, slightly desperate want of all and any form of pasta, and it’s this pair of insatiable yearnings that explain why I never miss a chance to have a quick meal at Higuma, a buttercup-yellow-painted Japanese canteen at the end of the Avenue de l’Opéra less than a five-minute walk from the main entrance of the Louvre.

A portion of gyoza, grilled featherlight pork dumplings, comes as a stuck-together regiment of seven, a truly hopeless number if you’re sharing. At lunch the other day, I overheard a middle-aged Swedish couple fall into a surprisingly adamant quarrel over who had eaten how many gyoza, and it was all I could do to stop myself from leaning over and suggesting that they order another portion.

Complimenting the gyoza is a full and filling range of Japanese noodle dishes, most of which are served in broth with a choice of different toppings—roast pork, shrimp, tofu, and so on. These dishes are excellent, too, and rounded out with a Kirin or a can of unsweetened Singaporean iced tea, this place offers a quick and deeply satisfying meal in the middle of Paris for a very moderate price.

IN A WORD: Prompt service, a spare but immaculate dining room with bare tables, basic lighting, and quick service. The delicious Japanese comfort food served here makes this a valuable address in the heart of town. Ideal for a quick bite before or after the Louvre.

DON’T MISS: Gyoza (grilled pork dumplings) and noodle soups, including kimuchi lamen; noodles topped with Korean hot and spicy pickled cabbage; and nikuyasai itame, fried noodles with pork and vegetables. ... 163 rue Saint-Honoré, 1st, 01.58.62.49.22. métro: Palais-Royal. open Monday to Friday for lunch and dinner. closed Saturday and Sunday.  •  $

Liza
Paris is one of the best cities in the world for  anyone who loves Lebanese food. Why? Lebanon was a French protectorate from 1922 to 1943, and the Lebanese still learn French, aspire to sending their kids to school in France, and love vacationing in Paris. Many wealthy Lebanese also fled the country during its recent cycles of turbulence and settled in Paris, which means that the capital has a large, affluent community. The French themselves love Lebanese food, especially mezze, or the assorted hors d’oeuvres that begin most Lebanese meals.

Liza is one of the best of a new generation of foreign tables in Paris that are ditching ethnic stereotypes—in terms of both decor and cooking—for edgy style and culinary authenticity. Located near the old Bourse, this place is a sexy gallery of almost invisibly contrasting tones of ecru and ivory rooms with dark parquet floors and perforated white steel tables that were imported from Beirut, owner Lisa Soughayar’s hometown.

The kitchen shows off just how dazzlingly good and varied Lebanese cooking can be, with mezze and regional dishes that go beyond the usual standards. The best way to enjoy this restaurant is to come as a group, so on a warm summer night Bert and Noël, friends who live in Los Angeles, joined Bruno and me for dinner. For starters, we loved the lentil, fried onion, and orange salad; the kebbe, raw seasoned lamb, which is sort of a Near Eastern take on steak tartare; grilled haloumi cheese with apricot preserves and moutabbal (a spicy mash of avocados), and fried shrimp. The main courses were excellent, too, including roast sea bass with citrus-flavored rice and fruit sauce, grilled lamb chops with lentil puree and cherry tomatoes slow-baked with cumin, and ground lamb with coriander-brightened spinach and rice. Among the desserts we enjoyed were the rose-petal ice cream with almond milk and pistachios and the halva ice cream with tangy carob molasses.

IN A WORD: This small, stylish, friendly Lebanese restaurant has quickly become popular with Paris’s large Lebanese community and fashionable Parisians who love the decor and light, bright, authentic cooking. An excellent choice when you want something other than French food.

DON’T MISS: Lentil, fried onion, and orange salad; kebbe (seasoned raw ground lamb); grilled haloumi cheese with apricot preserves; moutabbal of avocados and fried shrimp; grilled lamb chops with lentil puree and cherry tomatoes; roast sea bass with citrus rice and tagine sauce; rose-petal ice cream with almond milk and pistachios; halva ice cream with carob molasses. ... 14 rue de la Banque, 2nd, 01.55.35.00.66. métro: Bourse. open Monday to Saturday for lunch and dinner. closed Sunday. restaurant-liza.com  •  $$
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Table of Contents

Map of Paris     xiv
Preface     xvii
My Passion for Paris     xvii
My Passion for French Food     xx
A Reader's Guide: How to Use This Book     3
The Happy Eater's Almanc: How to Have a Perfect Meal in Paris     5
What Is French Food?     24
Tuileries, Les Halles, Bourse
Chez Georges     35
Les Fines Gueules     40
Higuma     42
Liza     43
Aux Lyonnais     46
Le Mesturet     49
Le Meurice     52
Le Pur'Grill     56
Aux Tonneaux des Halles     59
La Tour de Montlhery     61
Le Vaudeville     65
Chez La Vieille     68
The Four Seasons     72
A Paris Food Calendar     76
Le Marais, the Islands
L'Ambassade d'Auvergne     81
L'As du Falafel     84
Au Bascou     86
Breizh Cafe     88
Cafe des Musees     90
Mon Vieil Ami     93
Le Pamphlet     95
Robert et Louise     98
Latin Quarter, Saint-Germain-Des-Pres, Faubourg-Saint-Germain
L'Alcazar     103
L'AmiJean     107
L'AOC     109
Arpege     112
L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon     116
Auguste     118
Le Balzar     122
La Bastide Odeon     126
Au Bon Saint Pourcain     129
Le Buisson Ardent     131
Christophe     134
Au Coin des Gourmets     137
Le Comptoir du Relais     139
D'Chez Eux     143
L'Epi Dupin     147
Les Fables de La Fontaine     149
La Ferrandaise     152
Le Florimond     156
Le Gorille Blanc     160
Josephine "Chez Dumonet"     163
Les Papilles     166
Le Petit Pontoise     168
Au Pied de Fouet     171
Le Pre Verre     174
Chez Rene     176
Le Ribouldingue     179
Le Timbre     181
Le Voltaire     183
Ze Kitchen Galerie     186
Table for One     190
La Madeleine, Champs-Elysees
L'Abordage     197
Alain Ducasse au Plaza-Athenee     201
Les Ambassadeurs     208
L'Angle du Faubourg      212
Le Bristol     214
Le Cinq     220
Dominique Bouchet     224
Garnier     228
Ledoyen     231
Le Maxan     236
Pierre Gagnaire     238
Le Senderens and Le Passage     243
Taillevent     246
Eating the Unspeakable     253
La Nouvelle Athenes, Gare Du Nord, Gare De L'Est, Canal Saint-Martin
Carte Blanche     259
Casa Olympe     262
La Grille     265
Chez Michel     269
Le Petrelle     272
The French Foreign Legion: The Parisian Passion for North African Cooking     277
Republique, Oberkampf, Bastille, Bercy
Astier     281
Auberge Pyrenees-Cevennes     286
Le Bistrot Paul Bert     290
Le Chateaubriand     293
Le Duc de Richelieu     298
L'Ecailler du Bistrot     300
La Gazzetta     301
Le Quincy     304
Le Repaire de Cartouche     308
Le Temps au Temps     310
Le Train Bleu     313
Au Vieux Chene     318
Le Villaret     322
The Rise and Fall of the Parisian Brasserie      326
Place D'Italie, Gobelins, Montparnasse, Grenelle, Convention
L'Avant Gout     335
Le Bambou     338
Le Belisaire     339
Le Beurre Noisette     341
La Cave de l'Os a Moelle     344
La Cerisaie     346
Le Dome     349
L'Ourcine     352
Le Pere Claude     355
Au Petit Marguery     358
Le Severo     363
Fashion Plates: A Brief History of Stylish Dining in Paris     366
Trocadero, Victor-Hugo, Bois de Boulogne, L'Etoile, Ternes, Wagram, Clichy
L'Astrance     373
Bath's     380
L'Entredgeu     383
Guy Savoy     386
Hier et Aujourd'hui     390
Le Petit Retro     394
Le Pre Catelan     396
Le Stella     400
Montmartre, Buttes-Chaumont, Nation
Le Baratin     405
Chapeau Melon     409
Cheri Bibi     412
But What About? Or Why Certain Famous Restaurants Aren't Included in This Book     415
Acknowledgments     419
Restaurants by Type     421
Restaurants by Price Range     425
Open All or Part of Weekend      429
Index     432

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Sort by: Showing all of 5 Customer Reviews
  • Posted June 10, 2012

    Great for "upfront work" before getting to Paris

    What an enjoyable way to pick places to eat for our upcoming Paris holiday. Sit back and read the charming reviews of bistros/cafes, etc. by someone who has lived in Paris for many years. The descriptions of the food are amazing. Knowing where we're staying (left bank - 6th arrondissement) starts us out with where to eat. But as my husband said, we can always take a taxi! It's hard to rule out any of the places he reviews!!!! So, I'd advise anyone to enjoy this book on your e-reader--it's long for one thing--and it will be close at hand on your trip. Trust me........... this author has been to each and every place he's reviewing several times.

    1 out of 1 people found this review helpful.

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  • Anonymous

    Posted January 21, 2012

    Recommend

    I loved the insight and recommendations. As an American in love with Paris, I felt I was getting secrets from a Parisian friend to satisfy all of my curious tastes and hunger for all the flavors in Paris.

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    Posted January 7, 2011

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