I Love New York: Ingredients and Recipesby Daniel Humm, Will Guidara, Francesco Tonelli (Photographer)
After landing rave reviews for their transformation of Eleven Madison Park from a French brasserie into a fine dining restaurant, chef Daniel Humm and general manager/b>
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From the acclaimed team behind Manhattan's three-Michelin-starred Eleven Madison Park restaurant comes this deluxe cookbook showcasing the foods, ingredients, and culinary history of New York.
After landing rave reviews for their transformation of Eleven Madison Park from a French brasserie into a fine dining restaurant, chef Daniel Humm and general manager Will Guidara decided to refashion Manhattan’s ultimate destination restaurant into a showcase for New York’s food artisans. Instead of looking abroad for inspiration, Humm and Guidara headed to their own backyards, exploring more than fifty farms in the greater New York area and diving into the city’s rich culinary heritage as a cultural melting pot.
In I Love New York, Humm and Guidara present an in-depth look at the region’s centuries-old farming traditions along with nearly 150 recipes that highlight its outstanding ingredients—from apples, celery root, and foie gras to nettles, pork, scallops, and venison. Included among these dishes designed explicitly for the home cook are reinterpretations of New York classics, like Oyster Pan Roast, Manhattan Clam Chowder, and the Bloody Mary. Lushly illustrated with photographs of the area’s dramatic landscapes and the farmers who tend the land, this unique ode introduces the concept of New York regional cuisine as it celebrates the bounty of this exceptional state.
Humm and Guidara (Eleven Madison Park: The Cookbook), chef and partners at renowned New York City restaurant Eleven Madison Park, were inspired to write their new book by asking the question, “What is New York Cuisine?” The pair set out to put together “a collection of recipes, but also a collection of ingredients that comprise them, and of the incredible men and women who work tirelessly to make existence a reality.” Humm selected 55 local ingredients, then drove around New York exploring farms (all, except for one, within 150 miles of N.Y.C.) and meeting the farmers responsible for producing these ingredients. The authors put an emphasis on simplicity; they explain that these dishes, which include interpretations of New York classics, and cover everything from entrees to drinks to desserts, “are meant to be cooked at home.” There are beautiful photographs of the food and the farmers themselves. Each short chapter highlights a specific farm or producer, as well as the foods it’s known for. Rosenkrans Farms in Seneca Falls is famous for its beef, and the section on the farm is followed by recipes for beef tartare and bone marrow, shallots, and anchovies. A recipe for farro salad with yogurt, cucumber, and melon accompanies the story of Cayuga Pure Organics in the Fingerlakes region, which produces grains. Other showcased products include chocolate, foie gras, honey, lobster, plums, potatoes, scallops, sheep’s milk cheese, tomatoes, and venison. I Love New York is a delightful cookbook and culinary guide. (Mar.)
—Mimi Sheraton, food journalist and former restaurant critic of the New York Times and other publications
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Read an Excerpt
A Moment in New York Cuisine
We were drinking Manhattans in a Paris hotel bar when Daniel first told me that he wanted to write a book about New York cuisine. It was a statement prompted by an ongoing conversation the two of us had been having, reflecting on trips we had taken over the past couple of years, to Lyon, Paris, Tokyo, Piedmont, discussing how in each of these places, there is a collective pride in place—each city’s cuisine a celebration of its home.
Yet in New York City, one of the greatest dining cities in the world, it has never been this way. Here, for the most part, our cuisine has always had a sense of place somewhere else in the world. Our city, so often referred to as a melting pot, is brimming with virtually every culture and tradition. As a result, you can get almost everything here simply by going to an ethnic neighborhood—that microcosm of a foreign country—or to a local distributor. It’s one of the coolest things about living in New York, but it can also be our downfall. Too often, because everything is available all the time, we forget to look at what’s growing in our backyard. In spite of the fact that New York is one of the greatest agricultural regions in the world, we have never fully developed our own identity.
So we decided to write this book—to play our part in the conversation to define “What is New York Cuisine?” and to join the growing local movement that has begun to take shape around us.
We acknowledged early on that a local cuisine begins with its local ingredients. This book, then, we realized, had to be not only a collection of recipes but also a collection of the ingredients that comprise them and of the incredible men and women who work tirelessly to make their existence a reality. There was a lot we needed to learn.
So Daniel and his team spent weeks driving around New York, visiting countless farmers who cultivate amazing ingredients, learning about their land and their crops, tasting their products. What he found along the way was that New York is full of lush farmland and dedicated farmers who are producing some extraordinary things. We found that their stories are compelling, their products outstanding, and their commitment to preserving the New York agricultural tradition exemplary. He chose to highlight the farms and ingredients that he had come to respect the most on his travels throughout the state. The more he learned about these farms and their farmers, the more we became interested in New York’s culinary trajectory throughout the ages.
This took us beyond the ingredients, to the historical narratives, and more research—and we quickly discovered that although our city’s culinary identity is not quite intact, there are some wonderfully unique traditions that have existed over the years. We became obsessed with egg creams and soda fountains and Delmonico steak. We learned about their origins and their evolutions, about the legends that surrounded them and the people who invented them. An entire genre of food that was classically New York—smoked fish, potato chips, the oyster pan roast—all these dishes speak to this city’s history not only as America’s immigrant melting pot but also as a rich agricultural center. We decided to include these recipes and stories as well, because they had their cultural roots here in New York, but, perhaps even more so, because they had their agricultural roots here, too.
And so it was there in that Paris hotel bar sipping on that quintessential New York cocktail, reflecting on our relationship with New York and our budding fascination with it, that we decided to write this book. But it was through the process of writing it that we learned to fully understand the magnificence of our hometown—not only because of its lush farmland and the people that cultivate it, but also because its centuries-old culinary narrative has left an indelible imprint on American history. And we realized, in the humblest of terms, just as generations of immigrants and entrepreneurs had before us, that we love New York.
Nettle Toast with Lardo
4 cups nettles
2 teaspoons butter
1 teaspoon diced (1/8 inch) shallot
2 tablespoons olive oil
8 (1/4-inch-thick) bias-cut slices of baguette
1 cup ricotta
8 (1⁄16-inch thick) slices lardo
Pickled Red Pearl Onions (page 501)
Ground black pepper
Wearing gloves, remove the stems from the nettles and discard.
In a medium sauté pan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the shallot and sweat until tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the nettles and sauté until wilted. Season with salt to taste and cool on paper towels.
Heat the oil in a large sauté pan over medium-low heat. Add the baguette slices and cook on one side until golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove from the pan and pat off excess oil on a paper towel. Top each toasted side of the baguette slices with ricotta and sautéed nettles. Cover with a slice of lardo and garnish with the pickled red pearl onions. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
What People are Saying About This
—Mimi Sheraton, food journalist and former restaurant critic of the New York Times and other publications
Meet the Author
A native of Switzerland, DANIEL HUMM began his culinary training at a young age and went on to cook in many of the finest Swiss hotels and restaurants. Humm earned his first Michelin star at the age of twenty-four as the executive chef at Gasthaus zum Gupf in the Swiss Alps. In 2003, he moved to the United States and became executive chef at San Francisco’s Campton Place, where he received four stars from the San Francisco Chronicle. Three years later, he became executive chef of Eleven Madison Park.
Hailing from Sleepy Hollow, New York, WILL GUIDARA has been immersed in the restaurant industry since the age of thirteen. He is a graduate of the school of hotel administration at Cornell University and attended culinary school in the north of Spain. Guidara trained in the dining rooms of Tribeca Grill, Spago, and Tabla and opened the restaurants at the Museum of Modern Art before becoming the general manager of Eleven Madison Park in 2006.
Under Humm and Guidara’s leadership, Eleven Madison Park received four stars from the New York Times, earned three Michelin stars, and was given a coveted spot on the San Pellegrino list of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. The restaurant has also received six James Beard Awards, including Outstanding Chef and Outstanding Restaurant in America. In 2011, Humm and Guidara purchased Eleven Madison Park and, in early 2012, went on to open the food and beverage spaces at the NoMad Hotel. They are also the authors of Eleven Madison Park: The Cookbook.
FRANCESCO TONELLI is a photographer with a background as a professional chef, food stylist, and culinary professor. He has worked in the food industry in Italy, France, and Switzerland for more than twenty years and taught culinary arts at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York. His unique skill set and signature style have garnered a broad portfolio of clients that include the New York Times, Cooking Light, and Jean Georges. He is also the photographer of Eleven Madison Park: The Cookbook.
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