Good, but, not as comprehensive as it might have been...
Mrs. Onassis, was indeed, an icon of grace, elegance, and style (as the exquisite Richard Avedon photograph of Mrs. Onassis on the catalogue's cover attests) no question nor dispute. She was intelligent, well-informed in all topics of interest to herself, well-read, well-educated, beautiful, enticing, passionate, a discriminating elitist in the best possible manner, private, and as her daughter, Caroline Kennedy-Schlossberg has emphasized recently an American 'Patriot'. Mrs. Onassis, contrary to what some recent historians, such as Mr. Carl S. Anthony, have attempted to put-forth, may well have been annoyed during her tenure in The White House, by all the many fashion stories focused upon her, however, this catalogue (for the exhibition mounted by the Costume Institute of The Metropolitan Museum of Art in conjunction with The John F. Kennedy Library) clearly and equivocally addresses the question once and for all, if, one is left really pondering the issue of the priority she gave to high fashion, at all, rest easy...she did!!! She was very aware of her position upon the world stage as the wife of a President of the United States, particularly John F. Kennedy with whom she shared a genuine passion and love for history...both cognitive of their respective roles and impact. Mrs. Onassis, was both simultaneously proud and stunned by such a position but rose to the challenge of the responsibility spectacularly. She lavished much attention and care to the consideration and realization of her White House wardrobe with a specific eye upon the message it conveyed not only to her fellow countrymen but her fellow citizens of the globe. In the years post-White House she remain committed to the Legacy of John F. Kennedy, and her place within the context of both his life and presidency...and to this end, for example, as a woman of great style, of which her appreciation for high fashion was but one of her many intellectual pursuits, she made certain that any discussion of her style, especially in the realm of fashion, was severely limited to the three (3) years she was in The White House. If, one wishes to view and contemplate the balance of her fashion sense, it is made a difficult task, due to the fact that she gave anonymously to the costume Institute many, if not all, of her Valentino haute couture creations created for her by this master over a twenty (20) year period from 1964-1984. While this presnt window into the American haute couture (a fact unusual initself as haute couture as an impact leader is virtually absent upon the landscape of American high fashion) created for her by Mr. Oleg Cassini (a tribute as much to her as his mastery of cut, construction, line, use of sublime color and shared vision of an 'American Versailles') is important, I find this catalogue incomplete, as it shines little to no light upon her style in both her life prior and post White House, just as she would have wanted. And while I also grasp the ghoulishness of even considering to display, of which I am certain there was none, the pink suit she wore in Dallas, TX at the moment of the President's assassination, I firmly contend, at the very least, a photograph of her in that suit that day should have been included, where also the lingering question as to it being a genuine Chanel or a good line-for-line-copy from chez Ninon, might finally be put to rest. Also missing is the black suit she wore first to John, Jr's Christening in 1960 and later to President Kennedy's State Funeral of which most Americans living at that time maintain the most vivid memories. The essays within the catalogue by Arthur Schlesinger, Mrs. Paul Mellon (a great friend, mentor, and influence of Mrs. Onassis, yet, she chose to turn-in the most tedious and empty of essay's, almost as if she was too bothered to be associated?) and Hamish Bowles, are quite frankly not the best nor worthy of their subject, but, passable, almost as if they thought no one would really read them anyway and
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Overview
This illustrated volume celebrates the 40th anniversary of Jacqueline Kennedy's emergence as America's First Lady and explores her enduring global influence on style and fashion.