K2, The Savage Mountain

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K2, The Savage Mountain Pub. Date: 3/22/2011 Publisher: Johnson Press

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K2, The Savage Mountain (1ST LYONS) Pub. Date: 5/28/2000 Publisher: Globe Pequot Press

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Many of the earliest books, particularly those dating back to the 1900s and before, are now extremely scarce and increasingly expensive. We are republishing these classic works in affordable, high quality, modern editions, using the original text and artwork.

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Library Journal

Houston and Bates were the first Americans to climb K2, the world's second highest mountain peak. Such an endeavor is remarkably dangerous even now, but reading of the use of equipment as simple as woolen mittens, canvas and wood packs, etc., illustrates the bravery--or perhaps foolhardiness--of such an undertaking then. Five Miles High covers their first climb in 1938 (this account was published a year later), while 1954's K2 chronicles the 1953 climb, which proved far more difficult. Copyright 2000 Cahners Business Information.\

Product Details

ISBN-13: 9781585740130
Publisher: Globe Pequot Press
Publication date: 5/28/2000
Edition description: 1ST LYONS
Pages: 336
Product dimensions: 5.57 (w) x 8.33 (h) x 0.90 (d)

	Introduction	XV
1.	The Call to Climb	21
2.	Historical and Geographical	27
3.	Preparations	45
4.	To the Mountain	59
5.	To the Foot Of Abruzzi Ridge	89
6.	The Attack is Launched	103
7.	Storm Warning	119
8.	Steep Rock and Steep Ice	137
9.	Highest Men in the World	149
10.	The Accident	183
11.	The Bivouac	201
12.	Camp VII to Camp II	217
13.	Base Camp Again	247
14.	Out from the Mountain	257
	Appendixes
1.	Chronology	277
2.	Equipment	280
3.	Food	295
4.	Medical Problems	301
5.	Finances	311
6.	Transport	314
7.	Acknowledgments	322
	Index	325

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Anonymous

Posted February 16, 2001

HIGH ALTITUDE HEROICS...

A riveting read, this book chronicles the 1953 Third American Karakoram Expedition. The authors, members and integral part of that illustrious team of eight expeditioners, regale the reader with their account of the tragic circumstances with which they were faced while attempting to summit K2, a five mile high mountain, second only to Everest in height but infinitely more perilous to ascend. The book recounts the myriad of detail which went into the formulation of that expedition, from the selection of its respective team members to the type and quantity of supplies necessary for such an ambitious endeavor. The book, in fact, includes a series of appendixes which lists in minute detail a day to day travel chronology of the expedition, a list of all equipment necessary, the breakdown of the various foods taken, the medical supplies needed for the venture, and a list of financial costs and transportation requirements. In short, it provides everything one may have ever wanted to know about what goes into mounting an expedition. Nostalgia buffs, as well as climbing enthusiasts, will revel in the plethora of information. The book also grounds the reader in the historical, as well as the geographical, pedigree of K2 and the challenges which it has presented over time. It recounts the previous reconnaissances and expeditions which had traveled to the environs of K2. Interestingly enough, on this expedition, unlike prior ones, Hunza mountain porters from a small border state in northern Pakistan, rather than Sherpas, were employed, due to the prevailing political winds of the time. The journey of the expedition over the remote and primitive reaches of the then infant country of Pakistan is a death defying venture in and of itself. Imagine the expedition with its hundred and twenty five native Balti porters, each carrying sixty pound loads, crossing raging rivers in ancient barges said to be similar to those used by Alexander the Great in leading his armies across the same river. At other times, they crossed turbulent river waters using rafts made up of inflated animal bladders which were lashed together. They traversed across wide gorges over bridges made of woven willows and twigs. These so called bridges had an alarming tendency to turn upside down, promising to send the hapless traveler to a certain death below! Fortunately, the expedition was able to avert death at this stage of the journey. Upon reaching base camp, an assault upon K2 was quickly launched. With the assistance of the Hunzas and a stretch of good weather, Camps I through III were established with a minimum of fuss. The Hunzas, however, did not progress beyond Camp III, given the Hunzas limited high altitude experience and equipment. From then on, the expeditioners, eager for a summit bid, did all the loading and carrying work up the mountain, ultimately establishing Camp VIII at an elevation of about 25,500 feet. It was there that the beginning of the end took place. While at Camp VIII, all eight members of the expedition found themselves storm bound for seven days. Despite being buffeted by hurricane force winds, driven snow, lack of sufficient food, drink, and sleep, all while trapped in the death zone without supplementary oxygen, they still clung to their summit dream. The dream ended abruptly when one of them became desperately ill with thrombophlebitis and needed to be evacuated. Their nightmare had begun. Though it was seemingly impossible to lower the ill climber down the face of K2, this group of brave men would not abandon their fallen comrade. A break in the storm, a desperate plan to save their friend, and they started off with him in tow only to have their escape aborted by the potential for avalanche. They retreated back to Camp VIII and by the next day were ready to execute an alternate plan of evacuation. Once again, they began the grim descent with their now catastrophically ill and courageous comrade in tow, this time durin
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K2, The Savage Mountain

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HIGH ALTITUDE HEROICS...