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The Kedge Anchor; or, Young Sailors' Assistant [NOOK Book]


Upon its mid-19th-century publication, this book became the Bible of U.S. sailors. Its no-nonsense prose gives specific instructions for knotting and rigging, blacking the guns, and stationing the crew to dealing with the direst emergencies. Enhanced with 70 rare engravings, a glossary of sea terms, and 100 pages of useful tables.
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The Kedge Anchor; or, Young Sailors' Assistant

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Upon its mid-19th-century publication, this book became the Bible of U.S. sailors. Its no-nonsense prose gives specific instructions for knotting and rigging, blacking the guns, and stationing the crew to dealing with the direst emergencies. Enhanced with 70 rare engravings, a glossary of sea terms, and 100 pages of useful tables.
Read More Show Less

Product Details

  • ISBN-13: 9780486148052
  • Publisher: Dover Publications
  • Publication date: 3/19/2013
  • Series: Dover Maritime
  • Sold by: Barnes & Noble
  • Format: eBook
  • Pages: 400
  • File size: 39 MB
  • Note: This product may take a few minutes to download.

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The Kedge-Anchor

A Young Sailors' Assistant

By William Brady

Dover Publications, Inc.

Copyright © 2002 Dover Publications, Inc.
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-0-486-14805-2


We shall first commence with knotting a rope-yarn.


Take the two ends of the yarns, and split them open about two inches from the end; and if to make a smooth knot, you may scrape down a little with a knife, so as to make the ends lay smooth; you then crutch them together as you see in Plate No. 1. Take two opposite ends (leaving the other two dormant), pass one of the ends under, and the other over the standing part of the yarn, connecting them together at the same side you took them from at first; then jam your knot taut, and see if it will stand test by stretching the yarn from knee to knee, and hauling on it; if it stands without drawing, you may trim the ends, and go on.

* * *


Take two or three rope-yarns and make them fast to a belaying-pin; stretch them out taut, and twist them together on your knee; then rub it down smooth with a piece of old tarred parcelling. This is called a Fox, and is used for many purposes, such as making gaskets, mats, plats, temporary seizings, bending studding-sails, &c.

* * *


Take a single rope-yarn and make one end fast as before to a belaying-pin, and untwist and twist it up again the contrary way, and rub it smooth. This is used for small seizings, &c.

* * *


A Knittle is made of two or three rope-yarns laid up together by hand, twisting them between the thumb and finger, and laying them up against the twist of the yarn. They are used for many purposes on board a ship, particularly for hammock clews.

* * *


To make an overhanded knot, you pass the end of the rope over the standing part and through the bight.

* * *


Take the end of your rope round the standing part, under its own part and through the lower bight, and your knot is made.

* * *


Pass the end of your rope round the standing part, and bring it up through the bight—this is one half-hitch; two of these, one above the other, completes it.

* * *


First make an overhanded knot round a yard, spar, or anything you please; then bring the end being next to you over the left hand and through the bight; haul both ends taut, and it is made.

* * *


Take the end of the rope in your right hand, and the standing part in the left—lay the end over the standing part, then with your left hand turn the bight of the standing part over the end part, so as to form a cuckold's neck on the standing part; then lead the end through the standing part above, and stick it down through the cuckold's neck, and it will appear as in the Plate.

* * *


Take the bight of the rope in your right hand, and the standing part in the other; throw a cuckold's neck over the bight with the standing parts, then haul enough of the bight up through the cuckold's neck to go under and over all parts; jam all taut, and it will appear as in the Plate.

* * *


Take the end of the rope round the standing part, through the bight, and make a single bowline upon the running part, and the knot is made.

* * *


Take the end of a rope round a spar; pass it under and over the standing part then pass several turns round its own part and it is done.

* * *


With the end of a rope take two round turns round a spar, or through the ring of a kedge-anchor; take one half hitch around the standing parts, and under all parts of the turns; then one half hitch around the standing part above all, and stop the end to the standing part; or you can dispense with the last half hitch, and tuck the end under one of the round turns, and it becomes a studding-sail bend.

* * *


A rolling bend is something similar to a fisherman's bend. It is two round turns round a spar as you see in the plate, two half hitches around the standing part, and the end stopped back.—(See Plate.)

* * *


This bend is more used in bending hawsers together than for any other purpose. In forming this bend you will take the end of the hawser, and form a bight, by laying the end part on the top of the standing part, so as to form a cross; take the end of the other hawser, and reeve it down through this bight, up and over this cross; then pass the end down through the bight again on the opposite side, from the other end, for one end must be on the top, and the other underneath, as you see in the plate.

If both end parts come out at the top it will be a granny's knot. (Remember this.)

* * *

16.—A CAT'S-PAW.

This is generally used in the ends of lanyards, to hook the tackle to, in setting up rigging; to form it, you first lay the end part of the lanyard across the standing part, which will form a bight; then lay hold of the bight with one hand on each side of it, breaking it down, and turning it over from you two or three times; clap both bights together, and hook on to both parts.—(See Plate.)

* * *


Pass the end of a rope through the bight of another rope, or through the becket of a block; then round both parts of the bight, or becket, and take the end under its own part, as you see in the plate. It is sometimes put under twice, and the end stopped back to the standing part.

* * *


This is used with a lanyard, in setting up rigging, to hook a luff tackle to, instead of a cat's paw, where the end of the lanyard is not long enough to form a paw; but a strap and toggle is preferable to both.

To make a black-wall over a hook, you form a bight, or rather a kink with the end of the lanyard, having the end part underneath, and the standing part on the top; stick the hook through the bight, keeping the bight well up on the back of the hook (as you see in the plate), until you set taut the tackle.

Note.—You can learn it much better by practice than explanation.

* * *


With the end of a rope take a half-hitch around the standing part; then take another through the same bight, jaming it in above the first hitch and the upper part of the bight, then haul it taut, and dog your end above the hitch, around the standing part, or you may take a half-hitch around the standing part and stop the end back with a yarn.

* * *


To make a salvagee strap, you may get a couple of spike nails, and drive them into an old piece of plank, or whatever you can find convenient to answer the purpose, or get two hooks, lash them to any convenient place, as far apart as the length you intend to make the strap; take the end of the ball of rope-yarns, and make it fast to one of the spikes or hooks, then take it round the other one, and keep passing the rope-yarn round and round in this manner, hauling every turn taut as you pass it, until it is as stout as you wish it to be.

If it is to be a very large strap, marl it down with stout spun-yarn; if of middling size, marl with two single rope-yarns; if a small strap, a single rope-yarn.

* * *


Take a piece of rope of the required length, and splice an eye in each end; get it on a stretch, worm it, and then parcel it according to the shape you want it. They are generally made as you see in the Plate, large in the middle, tapering gradually toward the ends, and made flat on the side that goes next the yard or mast. When you have got it the size required, marl it down, commencing in the middle and marling both ways until you come to the eye; if it is intended for a yard it is generally covered with thick leather or green hide; if for a mast, it is pointed over for neatness.

* * *


To splice the two ends of a rope together, you first unlay the rope to a sufficient length, then crutch them together as you see in the plate; you must then lay hold of the three strands next to you in your left hand, holding them solid around the other part until you stick the three upper ends, or, if it is a large rope, you may stop the ends with a yarn; then take the upper or middle end, pass it over the first strand next to it, stick it underneath the second strand, and haul it taut in the lay of the rope; turn the rope a little towards you, and stick the second end as you did the first; the third in the same manner, hauling them taut along the lay of the rope;—turn the rope round, stick the other three ends in the same manner, and it will appear as in the plate.

Note.— If you intend to serve over the ends, you need not stick them but once; but if not you must stick them twice, and cross-whip them across the strands so as to make them more secure. If the ends are to be served, take a few of the underneath yarns, enough to fill up the lay of the rope for worming, then scrape or trim the outside ends, and marl them down ready for serving.

* * *


To make a long splice, unlay the ends of two ropes to a sufficient length, crutch them together in the same manner as a short splice; unlay one strand for a considerable length, and fill up the space which it leaves with the opposite strand next to it; then turn the rope round and lay hold of the two next strands that will come opposite their respective lays, unlay one and fill up with the other as before; then cut off the long strands, and it will appear as in the Plate.

To complete this splice, you will split the strands equally in two, then take the two opposite half strands and knot them together, so as to fill up the vacant lay; then you stick the ends twice under two strands with all six of the half strands, leaving the other six neutral; then stretch the splice well before you cut the ends off, and it is finished.

* * *


An eye-splice is made by opening the end of a rope, and laying the strands at any distance upon the standing part of the rope, according to the size of the eye-splice you intend to make; you then divide your strands by putting one strand on the top and one underneath the standing part, then take the middle strand, (having previously opened the lay with a marlinespike,) and stick it under its respective strand, as you see in the Plate. Your next end is taken over the first strand and under the second; the third and last end is taken through the third strand on the other side.

* * *


Cut a rope in two, and according to the size you intend to make the splice or collar—lay the end of one rope on the standing part of the other, and stick the end through between the strands, in the same manner as an eye-splice, and it will appear as in the plate. This forms a collar in the bight of a rope, and is used for pendants, jib-guys, breast-backstays, odd shrouds, &c.

* * *


Unlay the end of a rope, open the strands and separate every yarn, divide them in two halves, then take a piece of round wood the size you intend to make the eye, and half-knot about one-half of the inside yarns over the piece of wood; scrape the remainder down over the others; marl, parcel, and serve, or if preferable, hitch it with hambro-line. This makes a snug eye for the collars of stays. (See Plate.)

* * *


Take the end of a rope and unlay one strand to a certain distance, and form the eye by placing the two strands along the standing part of the rope and stopping them fast to it; then take the odd strand and cross it over the standing part, and lay it into the vacant place you took it from at first; work around the eye, filling up the vacant strand until it comes out at the crutch again, and lies under the other two strands; the ends are tapered, scraped down, marled, and served over with spun-yarn.

* * *


Worming a rope, is to fill up the vacant space between the strands of the rope with spun-yarn; this is done in order to strengthen it, and to render the surface smooth and round for parceling.

Parceling a rope is wrapping old canvass round it, cut in strips from two to three inches wide, according to the size of the rope; the strips of canvass to be well tarred and rolled up in rolls before you commence to lay it on the rope. The service is of spun-yarn, clapped on by a wooden mallet such as you see in the plate, called a serving mallet; it has a large score cut in the under part of it, so as to fay on the rope, and a handle about a foot long, or according to the size of the mallet. The service is always laid on against the lay of the rope; a boy passes the ball of spun-yarn at some distance from the man that is serving the rope, and passes it round as he turns the mallet; when the required length of service is put on, the end is put under the three or four last turns of the service and hauled taut.

* * *

Note.—It has always been customary to put on parceling with the lay of the rope in all cases; but rigging that you do not intend to serve over, the parceling ought to be put on the contrary way.

* * *


Splice an eye in one end of the seizing, and take the other end round both parts of the rope that the seizing is to be put on; then reeve it through the eye, pass a couple of turns and heave them hand-taut; then make a marlinespike-hitch on the seizing, by taking a turn with the seizing over the marlinespike, and laying the end over the standing part; push the marlinespike down through, then under the standing part and up through the bight again. Heave taut the two turns of the seizing with the spike; pass the rest and heave them taut in the same manner, making six, eight, or ten turns, according to the size of the rope; then pass the end through the last turn, and pass the riding turns, five, seven, or nine, always laying one less of the riding than of the first turns; these should not be hove too taut—the end is now passed up through the seizing, and two cross-turns taken between the two parts of the rope, and round the seizing; take the end under the last turn and heave it taut; make an overhanded knot on the end of the seizing, and cut off close to the knot.

Note.—When this is put on the end of a rope, and round the standing part, it is called an end-seizing; if on the two parts below the end, a middle or quarter-seizing. A throat-seizing is passed the same way, but is not crossed with the end of the seizing.

* * *


Turk's heads are made on man-ropes, and sometimes on the foot-ropes of jib-booms in place of an overhanded knot, as the Turk's head is much neater than the knot, and considered by some an ornament. It is generally made of small white line. Take a round turn round the rope you intend to make the Turk's head on,—cross the bights on each side of the round turn, and stick one end under one cross, and the other under the other cross; it will then be formed like the middle figure in the plate, after which follow the lead until it shows three parts all round, and it is completed.

* * *


This is intended for shortening a backstay; the rope is doubled in three parts, as you see in the Plate, and a hitch taken over each bight with the standing part of the backstay and jamed taut.

* * *


This is done in case of one strand of a rope getting chafed or magged, and the other two remaining good. To perform this, you take your knife and cut the strand at the place where it is chafed, and unlay it about a couple of feet each way; then take a strand of a rope as near the size as possible, and lay it in the vacancy of the rope, (as you see in the Plate,) and stick the ends the same as a long splice.

* * *


Unlay the end of a rope, and with the three strands form a wall knot, by taking the first strand and forming a bight; take the next strand, and bring it round the end of the first, the third strand round the second, and up through the bight of the first—this is a wall. (See Plate.)

To crown this, lay one end over the top of the knot, which call the first, then lay the second over it, the third over the second, and through the bight of the first. It will then appear as you see in Plate No. 3.


Excerpted from The Kedge-Anchor by William Brady. Copyright © 2002 Dover Publications, Inc.. Excerpted by permission of Dover Publications, Inc..
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.

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Table of Contents

1. To knot a Rope-Yarn
2. To make a Fox
3. To make a Spanish Fox
4. To make a Knittle
5. Overhanded Knot
6. Figure of Eight-Knot
7. Two Half-Hitches
8. Reef or Square Knot
9. A Bowline Knot
10. Bowline on the Bight
11. A Running Bowline
12. A Timber-Hitch
13. A Fisherman's Bend
14. A Rolling Bend
15. A Carrick Bend
16. a Cat's-Paw
17. a Sheet or Becket Bend
18. A Black-Wall Hitch
19. A Rolling Hitch
20. A Salvagee Strap
21. A Pudding for a Mast or Yard
22. A Short Splice
23. A Long Splice
24. An Eye Splice
25. A Cut Splice
26. A Flemsih Eye
27. An Artificial Eye
28. To worm and serve a Rope
29. To clap on a Throat and Quarter Seizing
30. To make a Turk's Head
31. To Sheepshank a Rope or Backstay
32. To put a Strand in a Rope
33. To Wall and Crown
34. To make a Mathew Walker
35. A Spritsail Sheet Knot
36. A Shroud-Knot
37. A French Shroud Knot
38. A single Diamond Knot
39. A double Diamond Knot
40. A Stopper Knot
41. A Buoy-rope Knot
42. A Common Sennit
43. A Sea Gasket
44. A Panch or Wrought Mat
45. A Harbor Gasket or French Sennit
46. Pointing a Rope
47. To make a Grommet
48. To pass a Rose-Lashing
49. To weave a Sword Mat
50. A Lashing Cleat
51. "A Shell, Pin and Sheave"
52. "A Single, Double and Treble Block"
53. A Shoulder Block
54. A Fiddle Block
55. A Shoe Block
56. A Sister Block
57. A Dead-Eye
58. A Heart
59. A Belaying-pin Rack
60. A Euphroe
61. A Horn Cleat
62. A B-Cleat
63. A Strap for a Block
64. A Tail Block
65. A Purchase Block
66. A Top Block
67. a Cat Block
68. A Snatch Block
69. A Nun Buoy
70. To bend a Buoy-Rope
71. To Pudding the Ring of an Anchor
72. A Jacob's Ladder
73. Can-Hooks
74. Hogshead Slings
75. Barrel Slings
76. A Single Whip
77. A Gun-Tackle Purchase
78. A Luff-Tackle Purchase
79. A Top Burton
80. Whip and Runner
81. Runner and Tackle
82. A Twofold Purchase
83. A Threefold Purchase
84. Names of Ropes
85. Launching a Ship
86. Cutting out Standing Rigging
87. Cutting out Topmast and Top-gallant Rigging
88. Cutting out Breast and Standing Back-stays
89. Cutting out Catharpen Legs and Futtock Shrouds
90. Cuttinng out Fore and Aft Stays
91. Cutting out Lower Mast Head Pendants
92. Cutting out Bobstays
93. Cutting out Bowsprit Shrouds
94. Cutting out Jib and Flying Jib Guys
95. Cutting out Running Rigging
96. Rigging Shears and taking in Masts and Bowsprit
97. To take in the Mizen Mast
98. To take in the Main and Foremast
99. To take in the Bowsprit
100. Gammoning the Bowsprit
101. Fitting Rigging
102. Fitting Mast-head Pendants
103. Fitting Lower and Topmast Stays
104. To Rig the Foremast
105. Futtock Shrouds
106. To Rig the Main and Mizen Mast
107. To Rig the Bowsprit
108. Getting Tops over (whole Tops)
109. Getting Half-tops over
110. Getting up Top-blocks
111. Getting up Top-masts
112. Getting the Cap into the Top
113. Turning in Dead-eyes
114. Getting Topmast Cross-trees over
115. Placing Topmast Rigging
116. To seize-in the Sister Blocks
117. Backstays (Breast)
118. Standing After Backstays
119. Main Topmast Stay
120. Mizen Topmast Stay
121. Getting the Topmast Caps on
122. "Mast-head Man-ropes. &c., &c."
123. Top-Tackle Pendants
124. Preparing to Fd the Topmasts
125. Rattling the Lower and Topmast Rigging
126. Futtock Staves in Topmast Rigging
127. To Rig the Jib-Boom
128. Jib-Boom Martingale Stay
129. Jib-Boom Guys
130. Martingale Back-ropes
131. Placing the Rigging on a Dolphin Striker
132. Getting the Jib-Boom out
133. Sending up Topgallant Masts
134. Royal Rigging
135. Short and Long Topgallant Mast Ropes
136. To Rig the Flying Jib-Boom
137. Spritsail Lifts
138. Spritsail Braces
139. Strapping Thimbles for Guys on Spritsail yard
140. Crossing a Spritsail Yard
141. Two Half-spritsail Yards
142. Whiskers
143. To get on board and rig Lower Yards
144. Truss Straps
145. Truss Pendants
146. Quarter Blocks-Lower Yards
147. Clew Garnet Blocks
148. Lift Blocks-Lower Yards
149. Foot Ropes and Stirrups
150. Jack Stays-Bending and Reefing
151. Brace Blocks-Lower Yards
152. Placing the Rigging on Lower yards
153. Getting up Jeer Blocks and Reeving Jeers
154. Lower Lift Blocks
155. Reeving Lower Lifts
156. "Main Braces, on Bumkin, &c."
157. Fore Braces
158. Crossing the Lower Yards
159. To get on board the Topsail Yards
160. "Rigging Topsail Yards, Fore and Main"
161. The Mizen-Topsail Yard
162. Placing the Rigging on Topsail Yards
163. Crossing the Topsail Yards
164. Fitting Fly-Blocks for Topsail-Halliards
165. Rigging Topgallant Yards
166. Topgallant Braces
167. Crossing Topgallant Yards
168. Crossing Royal Yards
169. Royal and Topgallant Gear
170. Spanker-Boom Trysail-Masts and Gaff
171. Spanker-Boom Sheets and Guys in one
172. Spanker-Boom Topping Lifts
173. A Brig or Schooner's Main-Boom
174. Reeving Peak-Halliards
175. Reeving Throat-Halliards
176. To Fit Single Vangs
177. To Fit Double Vangs
178. Fitting Gaffs with Cheek or Brail-Blocks
179. Getting up a Gaff
180. Lower Studding-sail or Swinging-Booms
181. "Lower Studding-sail Outhaul-Blocks, &c., &c."
182. "Topmast Studding-sail, Span-Blocks, Halliards, &c."
183. Topgallant Studding-sail Booms
184. Getting Studding-sail Booms up
185. Topgallant Studding-sail Gear
186. Stowing Hold and Spirit Room (Ballast and Tanks)
187. Stowing Casks
188. Stowage of Provisions and Naval Stores
189. Stowing Chain Cables
190. To get on Board and Stow the Hemp Cables
191. Cat-head Stoppers
192. Shank Painter
193. Fish Davit Gear
194. "Getting on Board, and Stowing Anchors"
195. Bending the Cables
196. To Range and Stopper the Cables
197. "Stoppers, &c"
198. "Compressors, or Combing Stoppers"
199. Putting on Nippers
200. "Iron Claw Stoppers, &c."
201. To Cut and Pass a Messenger
202. Splicing Rope Cables
203. To Ship and Unship a Rudder
204. Getting the Guns on Board
205. Fitting Shackle Breechings
206. Triatic Stay
207. Hoisting in Spars
208 Stowing Booms
209. Fore Bowlines
210. Fore Topsail Clewlines
211. Topsail Buntlines
212. Fore-Top Bowlines
213. Main Buntlines
214. Fore Bowlines
215. Main Bowline
216. Top-Gallant Sheets
217. Top-Gallant Clewlines
218. Fore Topgallant Bowlines
219. Main Topgallant Bowlines
220. Mizen Topgallant Bowlines
221. Topgallant Buntlines
222. Royal Bowlines
223. Reef-Tackles
224. Leech-lines
225. Slab-lines
226. Royal Clew-lines
227. "Fitting Tacks and Sheets, Bumkin, Gear, &c."
228. Yard Tackle Tricing-lines
229. To Reeve and Toggle Royal Halliards
230. Fore-Storm Staysail Gear
231. Main-Staysail Gear
232. Mizen-Staysail Gear
233. "Topmast Staysails, &c. &c."
234. Setting up Rigging for a full due
235. Staying Masts
236. Blacking Rigging
237. Stationing the Crew
238. Stationing the Crew at Quarters
239. Stationing the Crew for Mooring and Unmooring
240. Loosing and Furling
241 Stationing the Crew for Tacking and Veering
242. Getting ready to Bend Sails
243. Bending Sails
244. Bending Small-sails
245. "Bending a Spanker, &c."
246. Fitting Sea-Gaskets
247. Fitting Harbor-Gaskets
248. Bunt-Gaskets
249. Hammock Girtlines
250. Stopping on Hammocks
251. "Furling or Stowing, the Bunt of a Sail"
252. Furling Courses
253. Making up Sails
254. To make up a Topmast Studding-sail
255. "Furling Fore and Aft Sails, with cloths or covers"
256. "Reefing Courses, &c.,-Jackstays"
257. Reef Earings
258. Bending Studding-sails
259. "Preparations for leaving the Wharf, and hauling out in the Stream"
260. Carrying out an Anchor with a Boat
261. Marking the Lead-line
262. Heaving the Lead
263. Marking a Log-line
264. Getting ready for Sea
265. Clear Hawse
266. Weighing an Anchor with the Launch
267. Weighing an Anchor with a Buoy Rope
268. Boating an Anchor
269. Taking in a Launch
270. Taking in Boats both sides at once
271. Getting under-weigh
272. "When the Messenger Strands, or is likely to part"
273. "To get under-weigh, and stand before the Wind"
274. To get under-weigh and back a-stern to avoid danger
275. Getting under-weigh-a Shoal on each Beam
276. Getting under-weigh in a Narrow Channel
277. Head to Wind-cast on Larboard Tack
278. Windward Tide-get under-weigh and stand before the wind
279. "To get under-weigh, and stand out on a wind"
280. "Riding head to Tide-wind on the Starboard Quarter, get under-weigh on the Starboard Tack"
281. Getting under-weigh-wind across the Tide
282. To back and fill in a Tideway
283. Driving before the Wind
284. Driving broadside-to
285. Securing the Ship for Sea
286. Stowing the Anchors for Sea
287. Setting Topgallant sails-blowing fresh
288. Setting Courses
289. Setting the Spanker
290. Setting the Jib
291. Setting Lower Studding-sails
292. Shifting a Course at Sea
293. Taking in a Course in a Gale of Wind
294. Taking in a Topsail in a Gale of Wind
295. Taking in a Topgallant Sail
296. Taking in a Spanker
297. Setting a Close-reefed Topsail
298. A Close-reefed Topsail Splits
299. A Jib Splits
300. "Wearing a Ship under a Close-reefed Main-Topsail, and Storm-staysail"
301. Wearing under a Main-sail
302. Wearing under Bare Poles
303. Cutting away the Masts
304. Laying-to under Lower Stay-sails-Wear Ship
305. Precautions for Scudding
306. Scudding-a Ship Broaches-to
307. Scudding-brought by the Lee
308. Heaving-to
309. Taking in a Lower Studding-sail-blowing fresh
310. To unbend a Topsail in a gale of wind
311. Securing in a Gale
312. Preparations for a Hurricane at Sea
313. "Preparations for a Hurricane, at Anchor, and Notes on Barometer"
314. The Foremast is carried away
315. To Rig a Jury Mast
316. Accidents to Tiller in the event of losing a Mast
317. The Mainmast is carried away
318. The Bowsprit is carried away
319. A Topmast is carried away
320. The Jib-Boom is carried away
321. "The Foremast is sprung near the Hounds, or Bibbs"
322. The Foremast and Bowsprit are carried away
323. The Bowsprit is Sprung
324. A Topmast is Sprung near the Lower Cap
325. "To send aloft a Topmast, and a heavy Sea on"
326. The Gammoning carried away
327. A Lower Cap splits
328. The Trestle-trees are Sprung
329. A Lower Yard is carried away in the Slings
330. A Topsail Yard is carried away
331. The Ship leaks faster than the Pumps can free her
332. The Pumps are choked
333. A Shot gets loose in a Gun secured for a Gale
334. To throw a Lower-deck Gun overboard
335. To turn Reefs out of the Topsails and Courses
336. The Rudder is carried away-to fit another
337. A Ship on fire at Sea
338. A Ship on her beam ends
339. "Wind free, all sail set, struck by a Squall"
340. Struck by a Squall on a Lee Shore
341. Struck by a Squall under whole Topsails and Courses
342. On a wind under whole Topsails-part the weather Main Topsail brace
343. The Jib Downhaul parts
344. To Chase
345. To Chase to Windward
346. Observations for a Ship to Windward that is chased
347. To Chase to Leeward
348. "To Windward of an enemy within pistol-shot-the weather main rigging is shot away, both ships with main Topsails to the mast"
349. "Wind on the Quarter, all sail set-bring by under double-reefed Topsails"
350. "Wind on the Quarter, all sail set-bring to on the other Tack under double-reefed Topsails"
351. How to get the Achor off the Bows
352. "Anchor head to wind, wind free"
353. To Anchor on a Lee Shore
354. Scudding under a Foresail-to come to an Anchor
355. To make a Flying moor
356. To Moor with a long scope of chain
357. Blowing Fresh-in Port
358. Send down Lower Yards
359. To House Topmasts
360. To back a Bower by a Stream
361. To Sweep for an Anchor
362. Preparations for leaving Harbor
363. Weighing Anchor in a head Sea
364. Casting or Cutting the Cable
365. Clinching Cables
366. Fitting Buoy-Ropes
367. "Jib-Halliards, with a Whip"
368. "Jib-Sheets, double"
369. Wrecked in a Gale
370. Setting up Rigging at Sea
371. Slacking the Jib-stay in bad weather
372. Stopping out Top-Gallant Yard Ropes
373. Preventer Braces
374. Keeping a Clear Anchor
375. Anchor turning in the ground
376. To tend to a weather Tide
377. A Man overboard (at sea)
378. Jib and Staysail Halliard Blocks at Mast-head
379. To keep the Hawse clear when Moored
380. To tend to Windward-single Anchor
381. To tend to Leeward
382. To Back Ship at Anchor
383. To break the Shear
384. On Getting to Sea
385. On Fire Regulations in the Merchant Service
386. Station Bill for fire in the Merchant Service
387. Taking to the Boats
388. "Losing a Rudder at a Critical Moment, &c."
389. Steamers getting aground
390. The duty of remaining by a damaged Vessel
391. On Squaring Yards
392. Up Topgallant Masts and Yards-the Mast being on deck
393. Down Topgallant Masts and Yards
394. "Crossing Topgallant and Royal Yards, and loosing Sails"
395. Top-Mast carried away
396. Clearing the Wreck of a Topmast
397. Carrying away a Jib-Boom
398. To fish a Lower Yard in the Shortest Time
399. Expectation of losing a Lower Mast
400. "Lying-to in a Gale, after the loss of Masts"
401. Spars to convert in case of need
402. Getting aground
403. The Ballast shifting at Sea
404. Vessels Surprised on Opposite Tacks
405. Meeting at Sea
406. A Hint on Running too long
407. A Hint on Rounding-to in a Gale
408. On Making your Port
409. Laying off and on to enter a port
410. To Anchor and Veer a long Scope of Cable
411. Preparations-Going into Harbor
412. "Cautions a
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