Kimono: Fashioning Culture

Overview

The colorful and stylized kimono - the national garment of Japan - expresses not only Japanese esthetic sensibilities but the soul of Japan as well. Largely discarded by men a century ago in the name of modernity and efficiency, kimono is still worn by many women on formal occasions and by some women, such as geisha, in their daily work. Elegantly anachronistic, kimono still retains a powerful hold on the Japanese heart and mind. In this beautifully written and lavishly illustrated book, Liza Dalby, author of the...
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Overview

The colorful and stylized kimono - the national garment of Japan - expresses not only Japanese esthetic sensibilities but the soul of Japan as well. Largely discarded by men a century ago in the name of modernity and efficiency, kimono is still worn by many women on formal occasions and by some women, such as geisha, in their daily work. Elegantly anachronistic, kimono still retains a powerful hold on the Japanese heart and mind. In this beautifully written and lavishly illustrated book, Liza Dalby, author of the highly acclaimed Geisha, traces the history of kimono - its uses, aesthetics, and social meanings - to explore Japanese culture. Drawing on a variety of period texts (such as seventeenth-century kimono pattern books), Dalby creates vivid pictures of kimono and those who wore them through the centuries. She discusses the development of the kimono robe from its Chinese origins two thousand years ago to its assimilation as the national dress of Japan. Of particular note are the elaborate twelfth-century robes that reveal a uniquely Japanese sensibility mirrored in the literature and painting of the Heian period; the consumerist mentality and profusion of design occurring at the beginning of the Tokugawa era; the redefinition of kimono in the nineteenth century as Japanese had to deal seriously with the dress of the outlandish West; the interpretations and uses of kimono today; and the precise rules of kimono dressing and what they signify in terms of gender, age, class, and occasion. Dalby concludes with personal reflections on the subject of geisha and kimono. An engaging mix of fashion history and social anthropology, this lively book demonstrates in a new way how clothing fashions can illuminate our understanding of culture.
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Editorial Reviews

Publishers Weekly
Another Eastern fashion innovation is spotlighted by anthropologist Liza Dalby (Geisha) in Kimono: Fashioning Culture. When Dalby spent a year as a geisha in Kyoto in the 1970s, she found that the most difficult part of her work was wearing the kimono. Her experience inspired this exhaustive chronicle of the history and social meanings of the robe. Dalby is particularly concerned with how the confining robe in which women can't, among other things, cross their legs clashed with creeping Westernization in the last century, giving rise to such controversies as the 1920s skirmish over what kind of underwear should properly be worn with the kimono. ( Feb.) Copyright 2001 Cahners Business Information.
Library Journal
Dalby, author of Geisha (Univ. of California Pr., 1983), has written a lively, informative study of the kimono, tracing its evolution throughout Japanese history to its current status as the national dress of Japan. Her book's coverage includes all types of ``native'' dress, past and present; her unique position as a Western ``insider'' allows her to demystify the complex social mores connected with wearing the kimono. The work is also notable for reprinting and translating sections from 17th-century pattern books and for its discussion of the Heian (794-1185) color palette. Jill Liddell's The Story of the Kimono (Dutton, 1989) and Alan Kennedy's Japanese Costume: History and Tradition (A. Biro, 1990) cover different aspects of kimono history and textile design. The three books nicely complement one another, providing almost complete coverage of the subject. At once scholarly and enjoyable reading, Kimono is recommended for academic and public libraries with collections on Asian culture.-- Katharine L. Kan, Aiea P.L., Hawaii
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Product Details

  • ISBN-13: 9780295981550
  • Publisher: University of Washington Press
  • Publication date: 10/28/2001
  • Edition description: Reprint
  • Pages: 400
  • Product dimensions: 8.30 (w) x 8.20 (h) x 1.00 (d)

Table of Contents

Acknowledgments
1 Kimono Theme and Variations 3
2 The Natural History of Kimono 17
3 The Kimono Discovers Itself 59
4 Women Who Cross Their Legs - Kimono in Modern Japan 111
5 The Other Kimono 145
6 The Structure of Kimono 163
7 The Cultured Nature of Heian Colors 217
8 Moronobu's Fashion Magazine 271
9 Geisha and Kimono 323
Notes to the Text 337
Notes to the Illustrations 350
Bibliography 359
Index and Glossary 369
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