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Adam PlattWine writing tends to be either chalk dry or perversely florid, but Johnson manages to cultivate a literate, self-deprecating style. He apologizes in advance for a particularly baroque description of a red Burgundy from Château Figeac ("This is a long attempt, but you can always turn the page"), and, in a fit of cheery, un-Parker-like self-doubt, admits that a cliché or two may have found their way into his book. He's right, but it doesn't really matter. Hugh Johnson has done enough scholarly heavy lifting during the course of his career to indulge in as many jolly stories as he wants.
— The New York Times