Local Breads: Sourdough and Whole-Grain Recipes from Europe's Best Artisan Bakers

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Overview

"Is this how they make them in France?" As Dan Leader watched Rolf, one of the bakers at Tobias Maurer's Stuttgart bakery, shape French loaves, Dan thought that he had misheard Rolf's question. Stuttgart is a six-hour train ride from Paris, and it was incomprehensible to Dan that this master baker, who spent his life making different kinds of German rye breads, wouldn't be aware of French baguettes. All over Europe, the bakers Dan visited in his search for unique artisan breads were, like Rolf, devoted to baking locally. It is this commitment to place and tradition that accounts for their greatness. Although globalization has made its way across Europe, Dan managed to discover local bakers in great numbers making breads
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Overview

"Is this how they make them in France?" As Dan Leader watched Rolf, one of the bakers at Tobias Maurer's Stuttgart bakery, shape French loaves, Dan thought that he had misheard Rolf's question. Stuttgart is a six-hour train ride from Paris, and it was incomprehensible to Dan that this master baker, who spent his life making different kinds of German rye breads, wouldn't be aware of French baguettes. All over Europe, the bakers Dan visited in his search for unique artisan breads were, like Rolf, devoted to baking locally. It is this commitment to place and tradition that accounts for their greatness. Although globalization has made its way across Europe, Dan managed to discover local bakers in great numbers making breads handed down from their grandfathers and great-grandfathers, improving on the old recipes and adapting them to new technology, but always with an eye to keeping tradition alive.

In Local Breads: Sourdough and Whole-Grain Recipes from Europe's Best Artisan Bakers, Dan provides us with both colorful stories of the people he found-local artisans making local breads-and their treasured recipes, which he has translated for American home bakers. Here are some of the breads Dan found: Little Blue Cheese Rye Loaves (Meteils au bleu). This recipe comes from the Auvergne. France's breadbasket. Studded with local blue cheese, this light rye is a bread like no other. It was given to Dan by two bakers from the town of Clermont-Ferand, both recipients of Meilleurs Ouvriers de France, the country's highest award for craftsmanship. Genzano Country Bread (Pane casareccio di Genzano). Before he had set foot in the seaside town of Genzano, Dan had heard stories about the legendary panedi Genzano. When Dan learned that the bread had recently received the Indicazione Geografica Protetta (IGP), a mark reserved only for the most prized foods and wines, he knew he had to visit Genzano and find out how it was made. Almost primeval-looking, Genzano Country Bread is a colossal, bran-coated round, its thick crust baked almost black. The rugged crust is balanced by a moist, full-flavored crumb. Baked with biga naturale (Italian sourdough), it is renowned for staying fresh for seven days, a claim few breads can make. Flax, Sesame, and Sunflower Rye (Dreikornbrot). This sunflower-crusted rye gets great chew from the flax, sesame, and sunflower seeds inside. Until Dan tasted this bread at his friend Tobias Maurer's bakery in Stuttgart, he didn't understand why the rye breads he made in New York lacked the complex aroma and taste of authentic German ryes. But once he inhaled the pungent smell of overripe apples emanating from the bubbly liquid sourdough Tobias used, Dan realized what his ryes were missing and brought Tobias's sourdough secrets back home. Czech Christmas Braid (Svatecni vanocka). Every student at baking school in Prague has to learn how to make this bread. While Czechs consider the Christmas braid rich because it contains milk, eggs, and butter, it is lighter than the muffins, croissants, and scones made in America. To American palates it tastes light, exceptionally tender, and not too sweet. It is a beautiful bread, with a radiant color and a light sprinkling of sliced almonds.

And there's lots more: an easy recipe for a French baguette like they eat in Paris (Parisian Daily Bread), a whole-wheat sourdough miche inspired by pain Poilane[Trademark], a Roman-style white pizza, Green Olive Sticks, and Bavarian Pretzel Hamburger Buns, to mention just a few of the eighty recipes in Local Breads. The range of breads Dan found in Europe will captivate all bread bakers. Helpful Q&As at the end of each chapter convey Dan's responses to the questions most frequently asked by his students. One hundred brilliant line drawings illustrate techniques and equipment clearly. Thirty-two color photographs by Jonathan Lovekin splendidly depict the textures and colors of the loaves baked by Dan at his bakery.

About the Author:
Dan Leader teaches bread-making at the Institute of Culinary Education in New York City and is an adjunct professor at the Culinary Institute of America

Editorial Reviews

Publishers Weekly

Leader's new bread-baking book is distinguished from his earlier classic Bread Aloneby its focus on regional specialties, from the Alsatian classic pain au levainto Tuscan black olive puccia, from German laugenbrezelnor pretzels to the dark Silesian rye of the Czech Republic. The book opens with 50 pages of well-written and thorough instructions on everything from ingredients to equipment. The most helpful part is the explanation of the basic steps of any bread-making process, which serves as a primer on the procedural elements that are universal across the various European traditions. Leader, who founded the heralded Bread Alone bakery in Woodstock, N.Y., is most interested in teaching holistically, so that his readers will feel comfortable becoming apprentices and then experts themselves. One can't help imagining, however, that bread baking is best learned in the flesh. Leader advises that the only way to figure out if the "dough is ready is through experience," and a hapless home baker might agree. Still, the book is an excellent primer on the best breads of Europe, and the traveler who has returned home with a longing for the Roman specialty pane di altamuramight be satisfied with a mouth-watering trip down memory lane. (Aug.)

Copyright 2007 Reed Business Information

Product Details

  • ISBN-13: 9780393050554
  • Publisher: Norton, W. W. & Company, Inc.
  • Publication date: 8/13/2007
  • Pages: 448
  • Sales rank: 248,058
  • Product dimensions: 8.40 (w) x 10.30 (h) x 1.20 (d)

Meet the Author

Daniel Leader is the founder of Woodstock, New York's legendary bakery, Bread Alone, and author of Bread Alone, which won an International Association of Culinary Professionals Cookbook Award. He lives in the Catskills.

Table of Contents


List of All the Recipes in This Book     viii
Acknowledgments     x
Introduction     3
Ingredients and Equipment for Making European Artisan Breads at Home     15
Bread Recipes, Step by Step     26
Making and Using European Starters and Sourdoughs at Home     41
Read This First: Frequently Asked Questions about Making Bread     50
From Baguette Normal to Eric Kayser's Cutting-Edge Batards: Real Parisian Breads, Old and New     60
Organics in Alsace: Rediscovering Pain au Levain at Fabiopain     103
The Auvergne: Surprising Wheats and Ryes from Two of France's Meilleurs Ouvriers     135
Verona and Tuscany: Biga, Doppio Zero, and Regional Italian Breads     162
The Pride of Genzano: Italian Country Bread with a Government Seal of Approval     191
Il Fornaio and Italian Independent Bakers: Baking Local, from Rome to the Dolomites     210
Untouched by Time: The Singular Case of Pane di Altamura     246
In Search of Authentic German Ryes: High-Tech and Whole-Grain Baking across Germany and Austria     269
Discovering New Ryes in the Czech Republic and Poland and Remembering My Grandparents' Light Rye     301
Mail-Order and Online Resources     333
Index     335

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Sort by: Showing all of 3 Customer Reviews

  • Posted April 25, 2009

    I Also Recommend:

    9781579651176

    Engaging, unusually broad selection flawed by careless editing.

    Local Bread has an unusually broad gamut and generally excellent recipes with fine results. Unfortunately it is flawed by careless editing.

    1 out of 2 people found this review helpful.

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    Posted February 20, 2010

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