Local Flavors: Cooking and Eating from America's Farmers' Marketsby Deborah Madison
Deborah Madison celebrates the glories of the farmers’ markets of America in a richly/i>
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First published in hardcover in 2002, Local Flavors was a book ahead of its time. Now, imported food scares and a countrywide infatuation with fresh, local, organic produce has caught up with this groundbreaking cookbook, available for the first time in paperback.
Deborah Madison celebrates the glories of the farmers’ markets of America in a richly illustrated collection of seasonal recipes for a profusion of produce grown coast to coast. As more and more people shun industrially produced foods and instead choose to go local and organic, this is the ideal cookbook to capitalize on a major and growing trend.
Local Flavors emphasizes seasonal, regional ingredients found in farmers’ markets and roadside farm stands and awakens the reader to the real joy of making a direct connection with the food we eat and the person who grows it. Deborah Madison’s 350 full-flavored recipes and accompanying menus include dishes as diverse as Pea and Spinach Soup with Coconut Milk; Rustic Onion Tart with Walnuts; Risotto with Sorrel; Mustard Greens Braised with Ginger, Cilantro, and Rice; Poached Chicken with Leeks and Salsa Verde; Soy Glazed Sweet Potatoes; Cherry Apricot Crisp; and Plum Kuchen with Crushed Walnut Topping.
Covering markets around the country from Vermont to Hawaii, Deborah Madison reveals the astonishing range of produce and other foods available and the sheer pleasure of shopping for them. A celebration of farmers and their bounty, Local Flavors is a must-have cookbook for anyone who loves fresh, seasonal food simply and imaginatively prepared.
Farmers' markets are the new village green, says award-winning cookbook author Deborah Madison. This movement has blossomed into more than 3,000 markets across the country, places where you can run into old friends, meet new ones, discover new fruits and vegetables, and go home with bags and bags of fresh, delicious, and seasonal produce.
For all of us who go to the markets and get completely carried away with what we see, Madison has designed more than 350 recipes that take advantage of this, whether it's the greens, salad, and herbs of the spring's bounty or the root vegetables, apples, and squash of the fall harvest. Her recipes highlight seasonal ingredients (Spring Risotto with Sorrel, Roast Chicken with Herbs Under the Skin, or Parsnip Salad with Walnuts and Dates) as well as regional foods (Soft Tacos with Roasted Green Chiles or Hickory Nut Torte). There are recipes using market foods found in the winter months, too.
The chapters in Local Flavors are organized not by courses of the meal, but by seasons and botanical families, like the stone fruits and the nightshades (tomatoes, peppers, eggplants). In each chapter, Madison reports on a visit to a particular market -- say Cortez and Durango in mid-August or San Francisco's Ferry Plaza Market in October -- and composes meals from the market produce available at that time. Dozens of full-color photos of the markets, the shoppers, the farmers, and the dishes complete the course.
- Plan to spend some leisurely time at the market.
- If you don't recognize what you see, or need a tip on how to cook it, ask the growers.
- Bring cash.
- "Take a feast-now approach when shopping.... A favorite peach might be around for only two weeks, so buy accordingly and enjoy."
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Read an Excerpt
Greens Wild and Domestic
It's spring, and farmers' markets across the country are beginning to open. Greens are the vegetables that many will start out with. They're what you can count on finding early in the season. And depending on where you live, greens may flourish throughout the duration of the market, or they may disappear as soon as some real heat comes on. Greens like it cool, and some even like it cold. Salad greens are a huge challenge in Phoenix past March, which is just when they're looking great in Santa Monica. They might be diminishing in Sacramento by about June, but in Santa Fe or Londonderry, Vermont, they're with us from start to finish.
A key sign that it's spring isn't only that greens are available but that they have an irrepressible quality. They practically glow. I've picked up bunches of kale that squeak with vitality, spinach and chard that bounce with life. The arugula is nutty, not bitter; chicories have a sweet edge from the last frost of the season. Green potherbs, like sorrel, nettes, and wild spinach, are tender and delicate, and the deep reds of the red lettuces, like Merlot, haven't lost their luster as long as there are those nightly temperature dips. This is also when you might find miner's lettuce, chickweed, and other edible weeds, which, if you haven't tried them, make exciting additions to salads.
This green glory will fade as the season progresses into labored production, when hot days and nights keep plants churning and growing overtime. But for now, everything is leafy at its very best. This, in fact, is one of the prime times for big green salads, now and the fall. Come midsummer, sliced tomatoes and cucumbers will better fill that role.
The Simplest Tender Greens serves 2 to 4
If your greens are tender and not too voluminous for your pan, simply wilt them in a skillet with the water that clings to their leaves after washing, or steam them. Although boiling is usually considered a less nutritious way of cooking vegetables, the more quickly they cook, the fewer nutrients they lose, and tender greens will spend only the briefest time in a big pot of boiling water.
These methods are especially well suited to those quick-cooking greens, such as spinach, young chard, and wild spinach, although tougher greens, like kale, can also be treated this way if simply cooked a bit longer. (For the more assertive greens, like mustard, see the next recipe.) In general, 2 or 3 people can easily consume a pound of greens, for they shrink to nearly nothing.
1 to 2 pounds greens, coarse stems removed sea salt and freshly ground pepper olive oil or butter lemon wedges or vinegar
1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. While it's heating, wash the greens.
2. Add salt to taste to the water, then plunge the greens in all at once.
Cook just until they're tender, then scoop them into a colander. Leave them to drain from 2 to 5.
3. Toss the greens with olive oil or butter to taste and season with salt and pepper. Put them in a bowl or on a platter and serve with lemon wedges or vinegar. A bit of acid always benefits greens.
Cooking Greens In the Pan: Put greens that have been washed and not dried in a wide skillet and sprinkle with salt. Cook over high heat until tender from
3 to 5 minutes turning them occasionally with tongs. Lift them out of the pan,
leaving any liquid behind. Toss with butter or oil, taste for salt, season with pepper, and serve.
From the Hardcover edition.
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Meet the Author
Deborah Madison, founding chef of Greens Restaurant in San Francisco, is the award-winning author of nine cookbooks, including The Greens Cookbook (her first), Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone, and her latest, Vegetable Soups from Deborah Madison’s Kitchen. She has received the M.F.K. Fisher Award, the International Association of Culinary Professional’s Julia Child Cookbook of the Year award, and three James Beard awards.
In addition to writing on food and farming for such magazines as Gourmet, Saveur, Orion, and the blog Culinate.com, she has long been active in Slow Food (www.slowfoodusa.org) and other groups involved in local food issues. Before writing Local Flavors, she was a manager of her local farmers’ market in Santa Fe and served as a board member of the same market for twelve years. Although she now grows vegetables at her home in Galisteo, New Mexico, she is still an avid farmers’ market shopper and never goes anywhere without bringing home a big bag of the local bounty.
Most Helpful Customer Reviews
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I disagree completely with the first reviewer. Sure, the book isn't cheap--it's a hardcover, so that's to be expected. However, the information inside is fabulous for someone like me who is trying earnestly to shop for food from local farmer's markets. With this book, I am able to hit the Sunday market and then look up the items I bought in order to make delicious and simple recipes that showcase locally in-season foods. Perfect! Truly, Local Flavors has changed the way I shop and cook--it's made me more excited to shop during the 'lean' winter months. Used to be that I would dread the end of the bountiful summer markets--peaches! nectarines! heirloom tomatoes!--and the coming of the more spartan fall offerings--rhubarb. winter squash. root vegetables.--and headed off to Whole Foods for a taste of summer shipped in from the Southern Hemisphere. Now, I get that the cold-weather vegetables come into season together and taste great together and cater to that warm, nesting desire we all get as the colder months approach. The recipes I've tried are delicious and easy to modify with the ingredients you find at your local market. In closing, in case it isn't already obvious: I highly recommend this book. (If you're not sure, check it out from the library before you buy like I did.)
This is one of my all-time favorite cookbooks. As a fan of a local farmer's market in Indiana, I enjoy sampling the offerings of many different markets around the country through Deborah Madison's clear prose, tasty recipes, and lush photographs. Every time I open this book it reminds me of why the local food movement is so important: it encourages us to connect food with its source, to celebrate the produce of each season, and to make both our lives and our tables more beautiful and tasteful by honoring the local sources of real foods. The emphasis on seasonal produce and simple preparations also keeps fuss at a minimum and enhances the pleasures of the table.
THIS LOVELY COOKBOOK IS VISUALLY STUNNING WITH LOVELY PICTURES OF FOOD AND FARMERS MARKETS. THE RECIPES ARE ONES THAT MADISON HAS COLLECTED FROM VENDORS AT FARMERS MARKETS ACROSS THE COUNTRY AND THEY FEATURE VEGGIES, FRUIT, NUTS, EGGS AND CHEESES SOLD AT THESE MARKETS. I PARTICULARLY ENJOYED THE GIANT POPOVER WITH CHANTRELLES. I THINK THIS WILL MAKE A GREAT GIFT FOR MY FAMILY WHO ARE TRYING TO BUY LOCALLY AND LIVE A MORE VEGETARIAN LIFESTYLE.
This book is extemely disappointing. The price is too much and the book is just a glossy show case of photographs. After flipping through 300+ pages, I only found 4 recipes I would make. Granted they are 4 great recipes but the book doesn't have a lot of substance. This book offers way way too many fruit and dessert recipes and does not include many hearty vegetarian entrees or side dishes. Big disappointment.
I will stick a bug or more in the food. Hahaha. Lolz. Jkjk. Just kidding but that was kinda funny.