Maui For Dummies

John Wiley & Sons

Chapter One

In This Chapter

* Indulging in sunset cocktails

* Catching a spectacular show

* Going Upcountry

Maui's nightlife certainly doesn't rival the after-dark scene on the island of Oahu. Many of Maui's restaurants - particularly the oceanfront ones - do double duty as post-dinner hot spots, often hosting lively bar scenes, live music, and dancing. The epicenter of island nightlife is lively Lahaina.

Finding Your Way Out of the Dark

TIP

For the most complete calendar of what's happening while you're on Maui, pick up a copy of the weekly MauiTime Weekly newspaper, available for free at kiosks all over the island.

BEST OF THE BEST

If you're interested in the more refined performing arts, look for a copy of Centerpiece, the free bimonthly magazine published by the Maui Arts and Cultural Center, the finest cultural venue in the islands; hotel concierges usually have copies. You can also call the center, which is located in Kahului, at 808-242-7469 or visit the Web site at mauiarts.org for a current schedule. The Maui Arts and Cultural Center dominates the performing-arts scene on the island, featuring a visual-arts gallery, an outdoor amphitheater, a 300-seat theater for experimental performances, and a 1,200-seat main theater. The diverse calendarsometimes features big names like Melissa Etheridge, Natalie Cole, or George Winston; Maui Film Festival screenings; or performances by Hawaii's most renowned musicians. (Don't miss Amy Hanaialii Gilliom if she's on the calendar.)

The island's best sunset cruises are offered by Paragon Sailing Charters (800-441-2087 or 808-441-2087; sailmaui.com). From Lahaina Harbor (on Front Street), you'll sail into the sunset on a state-of-the-art, high-performance catamaran. These two-hour sails are intimate affairs (only 24 passengers). Prices are $51 for adults, $34 for kids ages 4-12, with hors d'oeuvres and beverages (including champagne, wine, and beer). A 15-percent online advance-booking discount was available at press time. Departure times vary seasonally, and cruises aren't offered every day, so call ahead.

BEST OF THE BEST

And, of course, don't forget that Maui is home to the finest examples of the ultimate island form of after-dark entertainment: the luau! I highly recommend planning to participate in one while you're on the Valley Isle, because it's home to the best commercial luaus in all of Hawaii. For details, see Chapter 11.

Partying in West Maui

West Maui is the Valley Isle's party central. Lahaina, in particular, takes on a festive atmosphere as sunset nears. The restaurants along oceanfront Front Street boast stellar views and energetic bar scenes, some with live music; just stroll the street and join whatever party suits your fancy.

Among the best spots to join the party are Cheeseburger in Paradise, 811 Front St. (808-661-4855), a regular forum for live-and-lively music; the Hard Rock Cafe, 900 Front St. (808-667-7400); and Kimo's, 845 Front St. (808-661-4811). Lahaina's hottest new club is The Breakwater, in Lahaina Center at 900 Front St., next to the Front Street Theaters (808-667-7794), which offers Lahaina's largest on-tap selection, sexy low lighting, comfy couches, a sushi bar, and an eclectic calendar of DJ dance parties and live music that makes this one of the most thrilling clubs in town. Call to see what's on. Every Friday from 7 to 10 p.m., as part of Friday Night Is Art Night in Lahaina, the town's galleries open their doors for special shows, demonstrations, and refreshments; you can even enjoy strolling musicians wandering the streets.

BEST OF THE BEST

Lahaina is also home to two nightly shows that are well worth seeking out. If you love the performing arts - and even if you don't think you do - don't pass up an opportunity to see 'Ulalena at the Maui Myth & Magic Theatre, in Old Lahaina Center, 878 Front St. (877-688-4800 or 808-661-9913; ulalena.com or mauitheatre.com). This incredible, Broadway-quality, 75-minute live show interweaves the natural, historical, and mythological tales of the birth of Hawaii using a near-perfect mix of original contemporary music and dance, ancient chant and hula, and creative lighting, gorgeous costumes, visual artistry (including some mind-blowing puppets), and live musicianship. This universally lauded production is bold, mesmerizing, and like nothing Hawaii has ever seen before - sort of like Laurie Anderson hooks up with Cirque du Soleil in Hawaii. Lest you think it all sounds too artsy for you, 'Ulalena has been so popular among tourists and visitors alike that two shows are performed nightly (except on Tuesdays) at 6 p.m. Tickets are $48 to $75 for adults, $28 to $45 for kids ages 3 to 10 - yes, they'll love 'Ulalena, too. Don't miss it! Packages that include dinner and/or VIP access to go backstage and meet the performers are now also available.

BARGAIN ALERT

On my last visit to 'Ulalena, I saved about 10 percent on my tickets by purchasing them at the Hawaiian Music Store, which also serves as an official ticket outlet for the show. You can find it just around the corner from Old Lahaina Center on Front Street (next to Longhi's, across from the Bubba Gump Shrimp Co.; 808-661-9225; hawaiianmusic store.com).

For something completely different, spend an evening at Warren & Annabelle's, 900 Front St., in Lahaina (808-667-6244; hawaiimagic.com). This genuinely fun and surprisingly not cheesy mysteryand-magic cocktail show stars illusionist Warren Gibson and "Annabelle," a ghost from the previous turn of the century who plays a grand piano - and even takes your requests. Expect the requisite audience participation, of course. Tickets are $45 per person, with dinner packages ranging from $73 to $80 per person; you must be 21 or older to enter. Food and drinks are available for an additional charge. The show is very popular, so book at least a few days in advance to avoid disappointment; no shows are scheduled on Sundays.

KID FRIENDLY

An early-evening family-friendly show is sometimes added to the Warren & Annabelle's schedule; call for details.

KID FRIENDLY

Kaanapali has its own family-friendly entertainment as well. Kupanaha is the terrific magic show at the Kaanapali Beach Hotel (808-667-0128; kbhmaui.com), starring husband-and-wife illusionists Jody and Kathleen Baran and their daughters, child prodigy magicians Katrina and Crystal. The dazzling show interweaves illusions, Hawaiian hula and chant, and the stories and myths of ancient Hawaii into a show that the whole family will love. No kidding - the show has been a huge hit. Shows are offered Tuesday through Saturday at the family-friendly hour of 5 p.m.; dinner is included, and you'll be out by 8 p.m. Tickets are $69 to $79 for adults, $49 for teens, $29 for kids 6 to 12, including the threecourse dinner; a kids' menu is available.

For live music in Kaanapali, head to Whaler's Village, on Kaanapali Beach at 2435 Kaanapali Pkwy., where you can take an open-air seat facing the ocean at the bar at Hula Grill (808-667-6636), which features Hawaiian music and hula. Or head next door to Leilani's on the Beach (808-661-4495), where the party starts every afternoon with live music at 2:30 p.m. or so. With tiki torches flickering and the waves rolling in, you can't go wrong at either spot.

KID FRIENDLY

Also in Kaanapali, on the mauka (mountain) side of Highway 30, you'll find the Sugar Cane Train (808-667-6851; sugarcanetrain.com), a vintage, open-air steam train - a vestige of Maui's old plantation days - that offers a dinner ride for the entire family Tuesday and Thursday evenings at 5 p.m. You'll enjoy a sunset train ride complete with singing conductor aboard the historic steam engine and then disembark for a Hawaiian-style paniolo (cowboy) barbecue and hoe down complete with live music. Think of it as a luau, upcountry cowboy style; sure, it's cheesy, but the kids will love it. Tickets are $69 for adults and $39 for kids 3 to 12, including an all-you-can-eat buffet.

BEST OF THE BEST

Up in Kapalua, every Tuesday evening comes alive with traditional and contemporary Hawaiian music thanks to the Masters of Hawaiian Slack Key Guitar Concert Series. Hosted by George Kahumoku, Jr., the weekly event hosts the islands' finest musicians, including such local luminaries as Ledward Kaapana, Cyril Pahinui, Dennis Kamakahi, and others, who come to play music and talk story in genuine local style. It's an event not to be missed, especially if you're a live music fan. Shows take place at the amphitheater at the Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, every Tuesday at 6 and 8:30 p.m. Check slackkey.com for the current performance calendar; call 888-669-3858 or 808-669-3858 for reservations.

Sipping a Beverage in South Maui

South Maui is a tad quieter overall, but boasts a couple of hopping joints.

Hapa's Nightclub, in the Lipoa Shopping Center, 41 E. Lipoa St. (between South Kihei Road and Piilani Highway), Kihei (808-879-9001; hapasmaui.com), serves up live music and microbrews nightly from 9 p.m. to 1:30 a.m. This large, popular place is simple and lively, boasting good sound and a big dance floor. Call to see what's on: It may be jazz, blues, rock, reggae, funk, or Hawaiian.

A DJ spins Top-40 hits at chic Tsunami, one of Hawaii's biggest and best dance clubs, at the Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea (808-875-1234), where a well-heeled crowd shakes its collective booty Friday and Saturday nights from 9:30 p.m. to 2 a.m.

Bocalino Bistro & Bar, at 1279 S. Kihei Rd. (808-874-9299), is a great place to boogie down to live music from 10 p.m. to 1 a.m. nightly except Thursday; the tempo varies from Hawaiian contemporary to Latin to rock, depending on the night, so call for the schedule.

In the mood for a taste o' the Emerald Isle while you're on the Valley Isle? Head on over to Mulligan's on the Blue, located on the Wailea Blue Golf Course on Wailea Alanui Drive, across from the Fairmont Kea Lani (808-874-1131; mulligansontheblue.com). Mulligan's is an authentic Irish pub, complete with Guinness on tap, traditional pub fare (in case you're in the mood for bangers and mash or a potato boxty while you're in the islands) and seven TVs complete with satellite sports channels, plus the kind of panoramic ocean view that only Maui can offer. Pubgoers enjoy high-quality live music nightly, with a Celtic spin on Sundays. It's an all-around excellent place to hang out!

Hitting the Dance Floor Upcountry

Somewhat unexpectedly, one of the hottest party spots on the island is Upcountry, in the cowboy town of Makawao. The party never ends at Casanova, 1188 Makawao Ave. (808-572-0220; casanovamaui. com), a popular Italian restaurant (see Chapter 11). The bar area has large booths, all the better for socializing around the stage and dance floor. Wednesday nights usually feature the venue's famous ladies' night disco, while Friday and Saturday nights boast the top names in local and visiting entertainment, which generally starts at 9:45 p.m. and continues to 1:30 a.m. Out in quiet Hana, your best place for entertainment is the Hotel Hana-Maui, where the Paniolo Lounge (808-248-8211) hosts live Hawaiian music Thursday through Sunday from 6:30 to 9:30 p.m. Live hula also occurs in the hotel's main dining room every Thursday and Sunday from 7:30 to 8:15 p.m. (Call to confirm the current schedule.)

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Excerpted from Maui For Dummies by Cheryl Farr Leas Excerpted by permission.
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