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New York Times Book Review -Matt WIlkinson, the author of MR. WILKINSON'S VEGETABLES: A Cookbook to Celebrate the Garden (Black Dog & Leventhal, $27.95), claims to be a "veg" first sort of chef at the cafes and bars he operates in Melbourne, Australia. Only after scouting the local markets for produce does he formulate his menus for the day. He even goes so far as to pooh-pooh protein. "Vegetables are so much more diverse in flavor, type and availability than any old piece of meat," he writes, although meat and fish do appear in his recipes.
His enthusiasm for vegetables extends even to nettles, the basis for a sorrel soufflé omelet with feta cheese. It does not extend to peppers, which he calls "the world's worst food." He isn't restrained on this topic. "I am going to go straight ahead and say for thte record I hate peppers, raw or cooked," he writes. "Hell to me would be a final meal of roaster peppers."
Yet there they are, proof that you can finish your vegetables if someone (in this case, probably the publisher) applies enough pressure. How about a nice bit of seared tuna with a salad of piquillo peppers, chorizo and mango Mr. Wilkinson? Don't make gagging sounds. It's right there in your book, and it tastes very good.