Read an Excerpt
Along with my younger brothers and a few enthusiastic mates who loved to bodysurf, I would often frequent the breaks at North Narrabeen, one of Sydney's premier surfing beaches through the seventies and eighties, and in the course of snatching the odd lefhander, especially when there was a sizable swell, enjoy a "dolphin's eyeview" of the best surfers of the era.
Some were well known firgures, professionals, who often graced the pages of surfing magazines. Others were "locals", part time surfers who knew their break and how to get the best out of it. But when Nat Young paddled onto a wave something quite special happened. For Nat's surfing was a thing of beauty to watch and mostly everyone did watch, whether from water or land. Somehow he combined grace and power with an unerring ability to get the best out of a wave that markes out the artist from the pedestrian.
Nat Young it seems, was born to surf.